Search the Community

hi all, I thought it may be useful to start a thread dedicated to li-po stick packs that fit Tamiya cars as I haven't seen any detailed single source for this issue, please do add links if you have seen one elsewhere , I think I would useful if you could give any details about fit and if you had to make any mods to get the pack to fit , I have only tried the yeah racing 3200 2s li-po packs ,they are a bit too long but workable and have proven to be quite strong and reliable , I had to use cable ties to hold them in the mad bull , for the M chassis I ended up using the quick release battery holder with 6mm of spacers on each side , I used cable ties to get it to stay in the king cab too , will add more as I try them

Hi there everyone, I've decided to post a bit of a walk-through of my transmitter conversion to LiPo batteries. It's ultimately as simple as plug and play but I learned a few things along the way. NB: The "David said" bits are an artefact of me using the 'quote' tags. I couldn't find a better way to format the text into blocks. More to come... (field testing)

So I've decided to finally move to a rechargeable battery pack for my Tx and am dumping the single cells, I have a few questions, any insight? 1. My Tx has an accurate battery voltage display and a low battery warning but these can't be configured or set. I assume the low battery warning will not be calibrated for LiPo and I should not depend on that - good assumption? 2. Assuming I can't rely on the warning, I can leave the Tx display on charge level when I'm running (I don't need to view the other screens whilst running) but what level is "low" for a 11.1v 3s? 3. Even though the packs are cheap I'd prefer an alarm - can I fit an inline LV alarm/cutoff between the Tx and battery pack? The Rx has steering and throttle fail safes so if the Tx cuts the vehicle will roll to a stop in a straight line. 4. What would happen if somebody plugged a charger into the charging port on my Tx if the LiPo pack was plugged in? Should I snip the wires as a precaution? 5. Am I being paranoid... 6. I see 1450mah all the way up to 3600mah... really I'll probably charge the Tx pack each time I charge my race packs, how long could I expect a fully charged 1450mah pack to last (my Tx manual only calls for a 700mah pack)? 7. Should I be asking any other dumb or intelligent questions? Tks.

Anyone know what battery will fit inside.

I have been reading a lot on this web site about people being unsure about swtiching to lipo batteries. It is all very safe as long as you use the 'C' rating formula. the formula is this battery capacity x 'C' rating = esc amp draw (using mine as an example) 4.000 x 25 = 100 you need to put a decimal point after the first number of you batteries capacity. 4.0 x 25 = 100 if your esc current drain is greater than what your lipo battery can give you are risking a big 'BANG' as long as you follow this simple formula then all will be ok, for those of you out there that are going to say well mine is fine! well its on your head then think of a lipo battery as a bag (cos it is) when it charges it swells, when it discharges it contracts. ESC's with lipo cut off as you know detects the batteries low voltage point. If the battery is taken past its low voltage point it can be damaged, charge it back up again and after a couple of cycles 'BANG' by using an esc that has a higher current drain than your lipo can give this then in effect is taking too much out of the lipo during its 'burst' (the point when you ask for full power) anyway I hope this all helps and settles a few minds. thanks guys, enjoy.

I recently decided to make the move to lipo, without knowing much about what I was doing, I rushed out (onto ebay) and bought two lipo's and a charger. The charger never arrived ( had to open case on ebay) so I ordered another charger from modelsport uk yesterday and it arrived today. The charger is an Orion advantage IQ404 which charges at 5A on 2s and 3.3A on 3s. I also have a Lipo safe charge bag. The lipos were a bit bigger than a stick pack, the 2s fits in the DT-02 and the 3s is for the blitzer beetle, the 3s is a bit wider than a normal stick pack so here's what I have done,......................... I think this is a soft cell pack so I decided to pad it out with carpet underlay, is this a good idea? And made a new battery strap to hold it in, All wrapped up and strapped down. Massive improvement over my old ni-mh batteries, I was thinking that the extra 0.2V on a 2s wouldn't make any difference, but I was very wrong, I have to do some more testing but I will report back.