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Found 33 results

  1. There are two recent variants of the TT-02 Type S worth considering for this; the standard kit (58600) which remains widely available and if you can still find one, the drift spec kit (47301). I purchased the TT-02D Type S because it was on offer at £99 (not to be confused with the standard non Type S TT-02 drift chassis 58584). I decided to build this rally car from the Type S chassis kit simply to see how good it would be and to answer many of the common questions which appear on here and in other forums on the suitability of the Type S for rally. I have owned a variety of the standard Tamiya rally cars over the years and although I haven't finished this yet, based on the rolling chassis and ground clearance it looks like it is going to be pretty decent for bashing. The standard TT-02 rally cars, which currently come in either the Lancia (58570) or Subaru (58631) variants, are ok but as per all regular TT-02 kits they lack any real adjustability. Notable exclusions from the standard kits which in my view should be essential for Rally are ball bearings and oil damped shocks. Common questions on setting up the TT-02 Type S as a Rally Car: 1) Why chose the Type S variant over the regular TT-02? The Type S is a much higher specification TT-02 and has a number of aftermarket parts including: [1] FRP suspension arms (51297), FRP axle uprights (51293 / 51352 ), [2] FRP suspension mounts (14305646 / 14305647), [3] metal 12mm hex wheel adapters (53056), [4] Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746), [5] full ball bearings, [6] adjustable threaded turnbuckles and steering arms, and [7] steel suspension mounts (54634). The TT-02D Type S variant (now discontinued) also includes the Tamiya aluminium propeller shaft (54501) and propeller joints (54502). The cost of buying all these separately as hop-ups including the spacers and screws and other extras not mentioned could easily be the cost of the kit again at ~£100. 2) I understand you can't increase ground clearance at the front with the FRP suspension arms? This is true in standard form because the upgraded FRP front arms are restricted where the axle upright meets the suspension arm cross bar. Removing a small amount of material from the suspension arm cross bar, increases the ground clearance significantly. The steps to do this are shown further below. 3) How much ground clearance can I get? With a small amount of material removed from the front suspension arm cross bar, using the standard CVA Super Mini Shocks with the short lower shock eyelet at the front and long eyelet at the back; the ground clearance is 1” / 25mm. You can increase this further both front and back but the maximum is approximately 35mm before the dogbone style driveshafts and turnbuckles are at a comfortable limit. 25mm is plenty for off road with this chassis and its off road capability is really limited more by wheel/tyre size beyond this. 4) Do I need to upgrade the Super Mini CVA Shocks which are included to Mini or Short CVA Shocks? No, they are perfectly fine as they come in the kit. The Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746) can be built to a standard length of 56mm using the short length lower eyelet and 62mm using the long length lower eyelet. Both of these eyelets are included on the parts tree and with the adjustability of the arms you can max out suspension travel and ground clearance with the Super Mini Shocks. The difference between the Super Mini CVA Shocks and regular Mini CVA Shocks is in the damper piston body. This is shorter on the Super Mini Shock but the piston rod is the same length allowing the same maximum stroke. When building The Type S chassis up in Rally Spec, there are a few considerations: 1) You will need a body. 2) You will need an ESC. 3) You will need Rally Block tyres. The standard rims are 1.9" (49mm) so Tamiya Rally Block tyres (50476) will fit. Modifications 1) The main modification needed on this chassis to increase the ground clearance is to the front suspension arms (51297). The rear suspension is free moving. a) The extract from the manual below shows where the binding occurs. You simply file the material away on the suspension arm cross bar (highlighted in green) to the new profile. I used a square needle file with blank edges so no material was removed from the side of the arms. I chose to remove material on the cross bar rather than the axle upright since the profile on the axle looks to be key to achieving integrity of the whole upright part. 2) The rear CVA Super Mini Shock unit needs to be built with the long eyelet (tree part 2) from the parts tree not the short eyelet (tree part 1). The front uses the short eyelet as per the standard instructions. 3) Instead of installing the suspension arms so the orientation is for the 2 mounting holes for the ball connectors that connect to the lower shock eyelets; the arms are reversed to orientate with the 3 mounting holes. These arms are fully reversible so this is fine. If the images don't show up for you below let me know and I will re host.
  2. firefoxussr

    Wanted: Lancia 037 Rally 58278 box

    I have a complete TA03R-S and body, but no box. I'd really like one if you have a spare or just don't want it.
  3. Mannyp1980

    TT-01E Rally Conversion

    Hi Guys, I have been pondering this for a while. I have a TT-01 rolling chassis that I am not using at all. I have decided to convert it to a rally car. So higher ground clearance is the main priority. What length Shocks should I get? I wanted to know if anyone on these forums has done the conversion before and what pitfalls I should look out for. I have already got bearings, Alu main shaft, Tamiya adjustable upper arms for it. Tamiya Rally Block tyres on the way. What other rally tyres should I also consider? I am gonna try to make a type of dust/splash cover for the internals. I know that they need air circulating over the electronics to cool them, but I am planning on getting a motor heatsink with a fan and a fan for the esc, if they get too hot. Speed is not the biggest concern right now. Just want to be able to thrash it in the grass and dirt a bit. So gonna keep the standard silver can and TEU-105BK esc. Anything else I should look at, Other Hop ups? Alu lower arms? Alu knuckles? Sorry for so many questions at once. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys
  4. I'm after a Tamiya Toyota Corolla WRC new kit or shelf queen condition car on the TA03F-S chassis. Also, I'm after a mint condition Tamiya 306 Maxi box! Thanks, Sam
  5. unotetano

    SOLD

    SOLD
  6. andymac1981

    TT01 Rally Spec Project - M1R

    Hi All and welcome to my TT01 Rally car build. For any who don't know I have a thread already going that will hopefully document my 1st steps into RC racing and can be found at the link below. I also have a few other build threads and can be seen at the links below also. So here it is as and when I bought it, a standard Tamiya TT01 with a Ford Focus Body Shell. This was my 1st RC car in quite a few years and has served to re-ignite my passion for the hobby again. As I said I do plan to race with a local club but this one will not be for racing and is more a project just for fun and experimentation. So the plans for the car are to raise the ride height and put on some rally tyres to have some off road fun on gravel/loose surfaces and hopefully equip it so it will take a few small jumps ect. When I bought the car all the kit was standard including the motor and ESC. As of writing I have an HPI 15T motor for it. The car is 100% and the only fault is the ESC seems to have lost reverse probably due to age and being stored in a damp roofspace for a while.I have no plans to change the ESC at the minute as funds will be concentrated on other projects for a while although I may eventually get round to this. Aside from the motor, tyres and ride height modifications I plan to try and seal up some of the holes on the underside if I am going to be going off road and also possible waterproof the electrics to a degree. I also plan on keeping the same shell but will modify it to something slightly different looking.
  7. Hi All, Okay so I have decided to sell up most of the more notable models that I have collected. I have a genuine reason for selling and will explain why further along in this post. If anyone has doubts about me as a seller/buyer, I'm sure anyone that has dealt with me in the past knows that I am a genuine seller. Now for the reason I am selling a lot of my collection. As some may know already, I was diagnosed with Epilepsy a number of years back. Now I'm pretty good with brushing these sort of things off and getting on with life but recently things haven't been getting any better and in fact I see it as getting worse as my memory has been getting bad/forgetful (I have a diary now to write down everything if I want any hope of remembering to do it), terrible lack of concentration now, my speech has gotten muddle and it is getting hard to form sentences correctly or remember the right words to use (I've been typing this post for the last 4 - 5 hours :S). The real concerns though are these, on the last number of visits to the neurologist, I have been told that I need to take having Epilepsy more seriously and that I could die during a seizure or sustain severe brain damage (Seizures generally involve me being unconcious and not breathing for up to 7 minutes. Typically, the same amount of energy is used in 5 minutes as would be used by a person running a 26 mile marathon). My neurologist is quite concerned due to the high number of seizures I have had over the last 4 and a half years. Due to the importance that my neurologist has placed on me understanding that I could die and the fact that I have formed a tremor/shake/jerk in my hands I am choosing to sell these. I just am not able to complete these models with any justice now (I do regret not finishing them years ago, but I never planned on the diagnosis :/) There are a number of things that I have always wanted to do and since I am only 24, I would like to do them sooner rather than later, just in case the worst dose happen (Think bucket list ) In case anyone thinks that I may be lying just to try sell parts quicker, I will take pictures of my Epilepsy medication, prescriptions, and other related items beside the Tamiya models that I am selling. I will also listen to offers on the whole lot Update: Just a small update here for anyone interested in the items or my health for that matter. The items are still for sale, just let me know if you are interested. Health is a bit better, I've changed medications a couple times since I first put the ad up and am overall taking less pills in a day. Still the odd side effect but these things happen. So here goes; 3 - Tamiya Lancia 037 Rally (TA03R-S Chassis Version)(SOLD to r0t0rdr1ver) 4 - Tamiya Sand Scorcher Vintage Front Tyres NIB (SOLD) 5 - Tamiya Sand Scorcher Vintage Rear Tyres NIB (SOLD) 6 - Tamiya XR311/Cheetah Black bumper and Underguard. NIP + Chassis + XR311 Driver (SOLD) 7 - MRC - Tamiya Parts Manual III (May 1986) (SOLD) 8 - MRC - Tamiya Specification & Parts GuideBook (1986) (SOLD) 9 - Tamiya 53188 Cross - Country 4WD Torque Splitter Unit BNIP This is a BNIP Hop-Up Option for Cross-Country 4WD like the Pajero and Wrangler For this I want €12 + P&P and PayPal charges (4% - I don't like sending money as a gift as it reduces buyers comeback should there be an issue) Yokomo Nissan 180sx Drift Car - Up for sale as I still haven't done anything with it, So I think someone else would put it to better use than I have leaving it in the box :/ dncluded with it are the follow -Tamiya GT Tuned Motor - Hitec HS-925 High Speed Steering Servo - Kyosho 27MHz Receiver - Yokomo Volk TE37 wheels (1x pair only) - Yokomo spare wing. Looking for €220 + P&P + PayPal (4% - I don't like sending money as a gift as it reduces buyers comeback should there be an issue) 10 - Tamiya TRF Sticker B (Blue/Yellow) NIP For this I want €7.50 + P&P and PayPal charges (4%) or For €10 + P&P and PayPal charges (4%) I will include a second sticker sheet that has had two stickers removed. 11 - Tamiya TRF Sticker B (Blue/Pink) NIP For this I want €7.50 + P&P and PayPal charges (4%) I feel all the prices are fair and I will accept offers on them, but also remember if I get the full asking price I will be as generous as possible as I have no use for these things 6 feet under. I will ship to anywhere in the world and am willing to place whatever value is desired onto the box/shipping details. I will add more parts, details and pictures as I get through it all. If you have any questions or picture requests, You can contact me by my email PM or leave a comment below Thanks for reading Matt
  8. arthurposer

    TL - 01 Unimog body

    Hello everyone. This is my trail/rally TL-01 with a unimog body. first build some mods Hope you guys like