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Found 60 results

  1. Fun dreaming up what’s next on my desk for 2024. As piled on projects await parts or additonal computer time. The First project of 2024 begins! Project Details - MF-01X - 239mm GR YARIS Factory Rally Recce vehicle Rally Nippon Japan theme Single vehicle colour - White or Black Miscellaneous WRC / Factory prototype markings and decals Tom’s factory car? TRD? Mudflaps Interior Integrated into front bumper or auxiliary horizontal light bar Description - Usually single colour with a few markings / extra lamps recce car that blasts the rally stages to either take notes in days and weeks leading up to a rally event or day of before the first timed race car is launched from starting grid. I’ve been fortunate enough to attend a dozen or two rally events over the years both wrc and professional / amateur national rallies and witnessed first hand. Usually it was 2-3 cars going through the full stage usually with a siren of some sort indicating the road is about to be a full fledged race track. Each car closer to the first car start was driving closer and closer to 10/10ths usually started out as passenger cars, transitioning to one with a cage, to one that was a liveryless full race car. Very exciting!! Hope everyone’s off to a great new year start! “Recce is short for reconnaissance. This activity is when the racers get to scout the roads before the event. In all cases, the roads are still open to the public and to two-way public traffic during recce, so this is not a "practice session" in any fashion.“
  2. Start date 2023/10 Tamiya XV-02 Body - Team C Subaru Legacy RS Electrics - Tamiya Brushless system 12-21T Ambitions - Capable box stock chassis for rough conditions Recreate Colin Mcrae’s Subaru Legacy RS that was rolled in Finland’s 1,000 lakes rally / 1992 Sweden Rally. Try to realistically “weather” or damage rear half of the car, particularly the trunk that is swinging open and strapped down while still travelling 11/10ths. I aim to make both white and Rothmans/555 liveries along with other bodyset themes mentioned in the title. Notes Where in contrast my TRF based builds are tarmac, cobblestone, dusty, light gravel, hard packed snow and ice patches. I think I’ve now chosen to commit and have chassis rig to withstand harsher conditions in rally - gravel, mud, snow, harsh chipped ice. Colin McRae, who participated in the 1992 WRC Round 9 1000 Lakes Rally from the SUBARU World Rally Team, finished in 8th place despite three major falls during the race. Colin McRae supported the early days of SUBARU's rallying activities and is nicknamed (McCrash) for his aggressive drifting and the sheer number of crashes.
  3. The source of inspiration is Honda cr-x si rally 1985 HongKong-Beijing rally. I added some print details,headlights and fenders to the original CR-X body. The chassis has also been adjusted,using a longer 60mm damper and increasing the suspension stroke. New handbrake system has been added to allow the car to make a handbrake turn and better braking performance.
  4. 1/10 scale stickers for your Lancia 037 model: the 1983 Lancia 037 – Jolly Club Totip 1983 Group B Rallye San Remo livery, drivers M. Biasion and T. Siviero. Accurate and detailed design Printed on high quality, transparent vinyl Gloss laminated for optimal protection Worldwide shipping € 30,-- including worldwide shipping
  5. 1/10 scale stickers for your Lancia 037 model: the PVS Wladoil livery, driven during the 61 Rally Costa Brava, drivers E. Baldaccini and “Pedro”. Accurate and detailed design Printed on high quality, transparent vinyl Gloss laminated for optimal protection Worldwide shipping € 30,-- included shipping
  6. Project Start: 2023 Chassis - TRF419 / XV02 Body - L&L Models / TeamC Bmw e30 Electrics - LRP / SpeedPassion Paint - TBD Tamiya PS Ambitions - DIY livery / Decals - Functioning driving lights with brake. - Replicate RWD by running only rear belt / rear Diff / rear drive cups - Rear e brake? - Cockpit with cage, full spare wheel/tire textile harnesses As the title and name suggests a JTCC / Macau / Hill climb inspired Bmw M3 e30 build. I love doing less common liveries or bodysets so I’m thinking of doing the SOK livery from the JTCC racing series, alternatively a Motul / Rothmans rally livery. I have had the bodyset since 2020, it comes with a nicely 3D printed front grill, M3 Evo rear wing and wing mirrors. A thread start and a few reference images as inspiration to ignite the fire and create some ownership to the project. Option 1 Option 2
  7. I didn´t want this TA03. It came to me by.... fate ? It all started when a Tamiya 58278 appeared on ebay with numerous aluminium parts. All for 180.- buy now. The alu parts were "worth" that alone, so i bought. I exchanged those to plastic and sold the 58278 on on ebay kleinanzeigen, for a fair 110.-. The car had never appealed to me. I´m a kid of the late 80s and 90s, so I didn´t get the hype with the 83 car. Also the proportions, the hard body, a bit toyish impression, no performance and lightweight, etc...... nothing I ever considered. THEN the buyer of the car didn´t like it. He said it´s not alright, bla bla bla.. Friendly as I am, I just took it back, although I probably wasn´t obliged to do so at all. The buyer did have 1:1 Lancias but probably not my TA03 knowledge. MEANWHILE, I had done some research on the car (synonym for I went into the rabbithole)..... These were the links that especially impressed me. There are many more, but after watchin those, I was hooked. THAT sound of this car is so insane and special. The Giugaro styling which seems really functional and not at all finicky or artificial. It is like a F40 / Esprit for Rallying. Especially the look in that first link impressed me - A Modern restoration of a retro car, with some touches that make it nicer than back in the day - and not all the same martini (gorgeous, yes, but my eyes have become bored by it really much). So this was what I was going to do with it: A QUICK RESTO MOD. Haha. Lancia 037 VOLTA returns - Restoration by Andrea Chiavenuto Lancia - WINNING (by Centro Storico Fiat / Gianpaolo Tescari) 1983/84 Lancia 037 - Sounds Lancia 037 vs. Audi Quattro on Grand Tour - The last RWD to win the World Rally Title - Most titanic battle ever according to Clarkson
  8. Kyosho Lazer ZX Sport with Alfa Romeo 155 body for rally. VIDEO:
  9. Hi. About a year ago, I purchased the Audi Quattro Rally TT-02. My goal for this build is to make the car as if it were on a tarmac stage. This means the car will be in 'low ride height spec'. Sorry, no rally blocks here. Some pics of what I'm going for: I'm also going to try to make it handle and drive in a 'scale' way. I want the car to pitch, buck, lean, roll and understeer (a bit) just like the real Quattro did. To accomplish this, I'll probably be adding some extra weight to the car. In terms of modifications or hop-ups, there won't be that many. I'm want to run the car stock, and slowly add to it to see what difference they actually make. The upgrades I've purchased are: 1. Bearing set 2. Low friction suspension balls 3. 68T high speed spur 4. Aluminuminuummumm driveshaft 5. CVA super minis 6. Turnbuckle steering tie-rods (more on this later ) 7. Different wheels with a touch more offset. I've noticed the TT-02 sits slightly higher at the front when built. To fix this, I trimmed on of the tabs on the rear lower suspension arms to make it sit a bit more level. Here is a pic of where the build stands now: Unfortunately, I was installing the turnbuckle tie rods the other day and snapped both the metal ball ends. The remaining threads are lodged firmly in the uprights so Ive had to order a new parts tree. I've tried to remove them but so far nothing has worked. I'll probably just revert back to the stock steering arms. I don't really need the turnbuckle system for what I'm trying to accomplish. Lesson learned. While waiting for the new parts, I'll probably begin to tackle the body. I'll post updates as soon as they happen. Any questions, suggestions, critiques are more than welcome. Thanks, guys.
  10. Man I've been here frequently... Anyway! I got some 60mm shocks and the Tamiya hard tuned spring kit for my TT-02 that I'm building for rally and was wondering which density springs to use where? I was thinking medium in the front and hard in the back but I really don't know... Does anyone know what should go where?
  11. At some point, my passion in all things Lancia 037 resulted in me acquiring two of Hasegawa's Lancia 037 model kits in 1:24 scale. I elected for the models of the 1984 Tour de Corse Rally car and the 1994 JGTC entrant at Fuji Speedway, with the latter piquing my interest and the former following for comparison between the Group B racers and the one that found its way to Japan. The "Other Makes" relevance came some time later, as my intermittent love affair with small-scale RC cars had me on the lookout for a Kyosho Mini-Z. However, in my research, I found information on a less expensive alternative: the WLToys K989 1:28 RC car, which shares a few components with the better-known Mini-Z lineup: Several body styles exist; I opted for this Ken Block-inspired rally car. There was an ulterior motive, however! I also owned a Tamtech 1:24 scale RC car, specifically the BMW GTP. It was one of my flings with small-scale RC cars; while I enjoyed it, parts were too difficult to find and the car was a bit too powerful for my purposes. My attention began turning to the possibility of mechanizing one of my Lancia 037 models, in the same fashion as Tamiya's early RC offerings being "models suitable for radio control." The reason I considered the Mini-Z and then the K989 was because I had measured the wheelbase of the 037 shell, and initially measured it at around 98 mm, with a width of around 72 mm. Several types of Mini-Z share these dimensions, and compellingly, so did the K989. I went ahead with the order for a WLToys K989, in a bid to make a project on a budget. I had heard of WLToys before, but was quick to dismiss their offerings. The K989 was a bit different: here was a 1:28-or-so-scale RC car with a genuine metal double-deck chassis and a JST-plug-equipped servo, and true proportional steering and throttle. The car also had full ball bearings, front and rear differentials, and the ability to change wheelbase length (albeit between two settings: 98 mm and 102 mm). It came ready to run at less than $100 CAD, which was a fair bit cheaper than a genuine Kyosho Mini-Z. Sure enough, the first thing that I did to it was remove the bodywork, and size it up next to the 1:24 scale Lancia 037 shell. Incidentally, 98 mm was a bit too short, but extending the chassis to its longer 102 mm wheelbase resulted in a perfect fit: Lots of promise here - I was pleasantly surprised to find that the width was essentially spot-on, with narrow knobbed rally tires completing the look: The other candidate for this project was a Kawada M24 Tripmate; however, those use much of the same technology as the Tamtech series, and are also hard to find. The WLToys K989 is a bit more modern, as you can see here: I chopped the stock body posts to get an idea where the 037 shell would sit for a proper stance: In anticipation, I purchased a Tamiya Mini 4WD motor in the event I should want to swap out the stock 130-type motor for something more powerful There are plenty of projects to be found involving the K989 and 1:24 scale models, which was reassuring. It does beg the question, though: are these 1:28 RC cars really true to their advertised scale? Although the 037 was a small car, if I remember correctly... With the chassis established, it was time to do some scale model building!
  12. I'm doing some cheap upgrades on my MF01X Rally Bug, and I was thinking of making it RWD both for accuracy and to reduce heat on the motor, should I remove the front dogbones and the driveshaft or just the driveshaft? And on a side note, how important is an aluminum motor mount if I stick with the torque tuned motor?
  13. The body is a vintage NIB - ABC hobby 257mm wheelbase Lancia Stratos. Overall Its very good, best Stratos I’ve seen in this scale. The best there is I feel is the one from HPI for the M chassis. The chassis placeholder during building is a TRF419. For real world use it will likely be my TRF417X WRC build or perhaps a XV02 series chassis. TRF417X Build Thread I love the more popular Alitalia livery but I am going for the 1978 Pirelli livery which will be more unique in my opinion. As a bonus I feel this livery could hide some of the body height and inaccuracies. Generally I find darker & correct scale metallic Tamiya colours can help make rc cars look more realistic as Lexan is never 100% correct. Start date 2022/03 Tamiya TRF419 - 42285 Ambitions - Magnetic body mounts Functioning windscreen wiper Functioning aux / fog lights on separate channels ch3, ch4 DIY Flocked dash DIY Interior cage Openable clamshells? Prototype Correct offset wheels? Let the fun begin!
  14. Hi all! I am after a Civic type R R3 rally project. I am toying with the idea of using the civic shell on top of a FWD converted XV-01. The goal is to obtain a realistic FWD driving experience for off road. Do FF-03 shells typically fit on an XV-01? The 2 chassis look similar enough in terms of layout (front mounted engine etc) but when doing conversions and unusual mix and matches there's always a catch it seems! Thanks!
  15. I decided to convert my rally car to brushless (it is all your fault @wtcc5 ) and I found a brand new TBLM-02S at a fair price, in 17.5t. I was wondering what the general opinion was on whether going with a sensored or a sensorless ESC. My understanding is that the motor will be usable with both. Now, for rally driving will I hugely benefit from a sensored ESC or will it be barely noticeable? A quick search on regular RC forums returned a lot of "nah you don't need it" and "bro... you need it".
  16. Looking for a JAS Motorsport Civic Type-R R3 body, any condition. I don't believe any repro was ever made but if you happen to know about one I would also be interested. Thank you!
  17. Attention rally enthousiasts, I am searching for a servo for my TT-02 rally car to replace the Futaba 9551 that's in it. It's probably not the best choice and anyway it is needed in a different car. The car sees a lot of dust and small rocks but no moisture. I'm not racing (what a dream if we could race rally cars over here...) but I like to lap around my own home made off-road tracks. I prefer a low profile servo but a standard would also fit. In terms of performance I'm not so concerned with speed and torque but more with having very little backlash. Any hints anyone?
  18. This will be my fist build thread and, confident that I won't come anywhere close to the quality of the builds shown here, decided to build a rally car runner using as many left over parts I already have. These days I mostly race Tamiya on road (TT02, TA08 Pro currently) with our local club so I was looking for something I can drive on the street in front of my house for fun. The added ground clearance of a rally car seemed a good choice - and I don't already have one. As the r/c budget goes on racing these days, it was time to dig through the parts bin. TGS Chassis as the starting point.
  19. I loved the retro Porsche 911 Safari cars and when the TT-02 RSR was released it clicked! Here is a simple TT-02 build. Car has been completed prior to the write up but I will try to map out the steps I took should you want to try something similar. Many thanks to a few people in the “what did I do today” group for help This build is low budget with no major hop-ups. Items include: TT-02 car kit bearings Subrau Brat tires 2 pairs of CVA dampers 18 pinion gear 35T Yeah Racing crawler motor Yeah Racing roof rack with LED 934 Porsche light bucket kit and LED kit Paint Hobbywing ESC Waterproof servo TT01 Truck foam bumper Edited: Cover photo updated
  20. Mazda3 TT02 with red FRP chassis. Modded with Fast Eddy bearings, Yeah Racing dampers, drive cups, and CVDs. includes all unused parts including receiver box and spare fasteners. I lost one out drive cup, hence the aftermarket parts. All instruction sheets, plus complete, unused decal sheet. No TX, RX or servo. Comes with original ESC and silver can motor, plus spare Trackstar 21t 550 motor. Knockoff rally blocks are mounted and will include original road tires and wheels. The paint is rough. I’m not skilled at it. This is either a challenge for one skilled in restoring lexan shells, or a good basher shell. It’s all in the original box. Weight is 85 ounces, box dimensions are 6 x 10 x 20. Shipping will be separate from price. If you’re local, just come pick it up. I’m limited in my photo uploads, so message me if you want too see more. Thanks Edit: also gonna shill for an LC Racing EMB-1 I’m selling, $150 USD.
  21. After some investigation about this Tamiya Model I decided to sell the Renault 5 Turbo, RA1226 from about 1980-1982. It is an unbuild Tamiya Scale Model, no packaging inside the box was opened. The box itself has some minor scratches on the front but no cuts or cracks. I kept this Model since my Father passed away in 2013 and since I am not into building Tamiya Models it is best to give it to someone who has the enthusiasm and love for these Tamiya cars. The price I am asking is 1.350,00€ + shipping (worldwide, tracked shipping) from AUSTRIA (not Australia). If there is no interest in this group, I am going to list it on Ebay with a Buy Now Price of 1.500,00€ within the next weeks. The Ebay offer will be higher regarding to the provision Ebay is asking. Dont hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or if you neeed more pictures.
  22. Body: (prepainted)Killerbody Lancia Delta Group A Rally, with Killerbody light kit. Magnetic stealth body post kit. Chassis: Pretty standard TB02, a few blue aluminium parts, and sway bar set. I bought a carbon effect Kamtec TT01 chassis/dust cover which fits my chassis perfectly after trimming. Wheels: Tamiya Lancia Delta wheels tyres and inserts. Electrics: Arrowmax 13.5t sensored brushless motor Turnigy Trackstar 60a sensored ESC Turnigy Trackstar TS-D99X steering servo Setup: Yellow(hard) rear springs Red(soft) front springs yellow(medium) sway bars, front and rear. I'll sort out the toe, camber etc when I give it a proper run. I've only taken it for a very short run on the street but it handles very well, I think I have the suspension setup just right. It's quite heavy with the lights, alloy, and hard plastic dust cover. This gives it realistc looking handling.
  23. This is my short wheelbase XV-01 or what I call the XV-01S. This conversion shortens the standard 257mm wheelbase to 237mm wheelbase allowing you to use the original TA03fs bodies such as the Peugeot 206 and Corolla WRC, or any of the short TA03rs bodies as well. I always enjoyed playing with the TA03FS but as we know parts are not cheap and hard to come by, and are known to crack easily. I then bought the XV-01 Long Damper Spec and enjoyed the durability and performance compared to the TA-03fs. I wanted a strong platform in which I could use the old short bodies, so the XV-01 made the most sense as it is front engine 4wd. Thus the XV-01S was born. Parts List: Upgraded parts include: Ball diff for front and rear (TA06), metal 18t pulley front and rear. Running a tamiya 10.5t sensored motor with the TBLE-02s esc with the tamiya fan. Stock gearing on 2s. metal gear Spectrum servo with gyro. The pictures below show the XV01S next to the original TA03fs for comparison.
  24. This is a light restoration thread of a vintage TA02 chassis into a rally / rallycross runner. Probably a fairly short build as I have most of what I need and I know what direction I'm heading. The History This chassis came to me many, many moons ago from a local ex-TC member. I think his name may have been GazWilts, or something like that. He posted a For Sale ad here for a hardbody Robbe Jeep sitting on a TA02 chassis. As he was fairly local, I made the journey to his place by car, talked nonsense for a couple of hours and eventually gave him some cash. The Jeep only ever got one run in stock form, at a TC bash at a sandy site in South Wales. Even with locked diffs the stock Hummer tyres couldn't cope with the soft sand and, although it looked brilliant, the Jeep spent most of its runtime stuck chassis-deep in the gold stuff. After trying various options the Jeep body ended up going over a Losi MRC chassis (an old project that was shelved years ago and might be pulled out again before lockdown ends), and the TA02 chassis went into a box of bits, never to see the light of day again. Until Sunday. The Trigger Lockdown has meant I'm running exclusively in my own garden. I've made a rough track that incorporates a short lawn section and some rustic patio slabs. It's a little too tight for modern 1:10 buggies, but perfect for trophy trucks and rallycross. Although I already have a TB01 (in need of a little care and a new body), and have just recently purchased a DF03Ra, I felt the need to fit up something different for rally duties. I had a Celica GT4 ST165 bodyset NIP that I bought a few years ago when I had planned to do some local rally events. So when I finished my XV01T S10 build on Sunday morning and I had the rest of the day to myself, I figured I might as well grab down this old chassis and dust-covered bodyset and see if I could mate the two together. The Plan Keep It Simple, Stupid. A partial stripdown and once-over, replace anything broken, rebuild with a semi-hot brushed motor and some rally block tyres. Fit an old set of CVAs adjusted for long travel, and go rallying. The Build It started with the chassis. As you can see, it's exactly what it claims to be. A vintage TA02. Front arms were missing but I later found them (or something very much like them) while digging through a zippy bag marked "CC01 Misc". Shocks were missing but I had a set rattling around the bottom of a spares bag in the box that my vintage touring race cars were sat in (a TL01LA and a modded TB01). First thing I noticed was that the rear diff was locked. The previous owner (in building a scaler) had done the old trick of putting the stock ball diff up front and locking the gear diff with putty for a high traction rear end. I hammered apart the diff housing to find this. It looks (and smells) a bit like paint but I imagine it's some kind of putty, maybe a body filler. It flaked off the plastic housing well enough but wasn't easy to get off the metal parts. Fortunately I had a couple of sets of diff internals sitting in 99% IPA for a few weeks now, one set were almost clean, so I dropped the puttied diff into the juice and pulled out the older ones. An hour with a craft knife, small flat bladed screwdriver and a compressed air nozzle and they were clean enough to use.
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