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Found 195 results

  1. Thanks for approving mods! Hello everyone, Having been following the listings of vintage Hilux 4x4 3 speeds and parts on ebay for about 2 years, after really getting to appreciate these metal three speeds following the build up of my Brusier Rere, I finally decided to venture into the vintage game and purchase a 35 year old RC. It's incredible how well designed and special these 3 speeds feel particularly for the era in which they were built, which happens to be my favourite decade anyway...the Magnificent 80's!! After seeing a spate of these get snapped up on ebay and prices seemingly creeping north, I finally decided to buy this on ebay last week, very soon after it was listed. It was listed on Italian ebay and I stumbled on it by chance in the stupid early hours of the morning as my search hadn't picked it up when it was listed and I'd been scouring ebay for days before. Needless to say it was a very tidy looking example. A few bits were immediately apparent. The transistor internals looked to be missing as did the third servo gubbins (I was planning to run an esc in the transistor box anyway), some link rods for the other 2 servos, the plate that runs between the tranny shift rod and the stabilising rod above it missing, motor wires cut, perished gearbox plugs and a small dink in the front bumper lower bar. None of this put me off it much neither did the lack of radio equipment or servos as I had my own plan in mind for that. The description said very little, basically that it was near to perfect condition, clear coated, no electrics and what you see is what you get. I've been permanently excited about receiving this over the last few days with a touch of apprehension about whether it would actually be as good as the pics, whether it would arrive undamaged and in fact whether it would arrive at all!! To keep my mind occupied, I cracked out some vintage wheels which I bought a long time ago (to experiment with something on the Bruiser) and decided to have a go at painting the Good Year logo's on. I did one wheel and the wife the other. Mine was on the left, hers looks better in the pic, mine looks a bit finer in the flesh Another update soon! Cheers
  2. I have been building a Tamiya Bruiser Hilux over the last 6 months which I bought just before Xmas last year. I didn't start the build until after xmas during the holiday period and managed to complete the chassis for the most part in those couple of weeks. I have documented the build in depth as I went (for another forum) since I couldn't access this one at the time but it seems a shame not to mirror it on here where it will no doubt be appreciated more. It is not yet complete so I will post up the steps which take me to where I am now. It has been an awesome build and hopefully it'll give those considering one a taste of what it is like to build one. I sat on the fence for a long time with this because it is a substantial outlay but what an epic build and model it is. My apologies in advance since this was written at the time and so it might seem a little strange in the use of the past tense but I'm carrying much of the diary over as I wrote it then, to capture the spirit/mindset at the time of build. So here's where it started..... The box art; Box contents; Chassis and axles; all set out ready for start The kit comes with these tools; Parts bag A. Comes with threadlock paste and grease etc. Thankfully, unlike other Tamiya kits where you are constantly reaching for other part bags each containing the necesary parts for particular steps, it appears that the bruiser kit is in proper part bag steps, so steps 1-9 appear to pertain purely to parts bag A which should keep things somewhat tidier. more to follow...
  3. Howdy, I’m half way through the Tamiya Enterprise model and I was hoping some super sleuths on here might be able to give me some much needed advice… I want to try and give the top of this section an almost asphalt feel, slightly rough. I also want to put a light grey wash on it Now, I was thinking of buying some very fine sandpaper and giving the whole side a consistent rub down, some sections around the take-off area’s will be a little rougher.. but I’m talking about a very fine grit and a very light rub. Then going over it wish a light grey wash, to lighten it all up a tad. 2 hobby shops have given me different suggestions, one recommended a spray that gave off an asphalt appear, the other said to use a light adhesive spray then place some very fine greyish looking.. rough/gritty powder type of substance I’ll only get one shot at it so any idea’s are appreciated! Thanks all from down under! J
  4. Well I’m happy to say that I’m the proud owner of a vintage Clod Buster that I won on eBay this morning (apologies to any TC members who I sniped I just had to have one in my life!) I’ll pick her up tomorrow and the plan is to bring her back to box art so I can re-live yet another missed childhood dream. Couple of questions… Firstly, would you guys recommend keeping the original shell as the runner and purchasing a new body & decals for the shelf or should I restore the body and just have the one? I plan on running her, how hard I’m not sure but she will do some clodding around… Just not sure if it’s financially viable to go ahead and purchase a new shell and decals… From what I can gather it looks like $200AUD is about the cheapest I could get that for!!! The second question is around electrics… I want to use LiPo’s and an ESC – I’ll probably just keep the motors or put in maybe Sport Tuned in there. What is a good reasonably prices ESC and also servos for this truck in your opinions? My days are passed of purchasing the highest quality Hitec servos (literally been there done that with the 1/5 gas cars) so now am all about the balance of good enough, cheap enough as I am yet to find problems even with Turnigy Lipo’s and Hobby King servos! But the torque recommendations would be appreciated. I am using this in the Bruiser, which seems ok: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=51179 I have read on here that a few have used this, however with the Clod do I need two or a specific two motor esc? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__46161__HobbyKing_X_Car_45A_Brushed_Car_ESC_AU_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=HobbyKing%20X-Car%2045A%20Brushed%20Ca Anyhow, thanks guys for the brains trust.
  5. I joined the vintage 3 speeder gang this morning! After watching these for many months, it seems there is no letting up in interest making snapping up a bargain seem increasingly more difficult. By pure chance, despite searching for these every evening I came across an Italian listing this morning that my usual search had neglected to pick up. It was exactly what I've been after, a tidy box art vintage Hilux. The buy it now or make offer was a fair bit more than I wanted to pay but after putting my rusty italian to good use and a bit of back and forwards early this morning we came to an agreement and in a moment of madness I decided it was my time to bite the bullet. In fairness I probably paid £100-150 more than I would have been happy with but with the rarity of finding just what I'm after, such is the price of admission I guess and he who hesitates is lost. Here are some pics, it will hopefully be making its journey from Italy tomorrow morning. I'm really excited about this, it is my first and will probably be my only foray into the truly vintage side of the hobby. Having enjoyed the whole build process with a rere Bruiser, which really made me marvel and appreciate these three speeders, I'm hoping it'll be that much more special owning a 35 year old real deal. I love the more scaler looks of the original Hilux and it'll compliment the Bruiser and Mountain rider very nicely. A few bits I've noticed, seems to be some servo hardware missing and maybe the spring on the gear shifter, the gearbox rubbers look shot for some reason, the rubber tabs are missing from the latches on the electronics box, there are no electrics (transistor box looks empty) but that's cool because I wanted to fit a modern esc in the original casing anyway so this allows me to do that without guilt. The shell looks lovely and has been clear coated, I hope it's as good as it looks though I wouldn't have minded doing a refurb on one. There is some tyre lettering needed and I'll need to source a manual so I can strip and rebuild the Gbox. It looks a nice one but of course I'm a little aprehensive now until it physically turns up!! The countdown begins...
  6. I PROMISED myself that I would leave the Lunchbox alone... I mean, why would I upgrade a "truck" worth about $100? The upgrades would far exceed the price very quickly... Well a few opening statements about Vanessa for me to start off with, she is what has draaaaaggggggggggggged me back into RC AGAIN and more importantly, into Tamiya and led me to you pack of nut cases Good, bad or indifferent, she has been a joy to drive and bash like heck and it's not about the money at all actually, it's about the good ol' fun of RC and loving the car you have, and that means for me using it like all heck then upgrading as needed. Well that time has come. I looked for many months for suspension but just couldn't justify it, finally I gave in and got some GMade as they are fantastic build quality and really cheap for what they are. I would have loved Tamiya CVAs for this but they're too hard to find and too expensive. I also LASHED out on an ultra expensive ESC from HobbyKing The final piece of the puzzle for now is arguably the most important, the 2S Lipo Well, I'll post pics as we go here, I assume the final (LOL) upgrade will be the front A-Arms.
  7. Hey guys, Im a new member, new to the RC Car scene, I have always been interested in RC models, and I always liked the Tamiya Dark Impact and HPI Savage 4x4. The missus's dad bought himself a Holiday Buggy for Christmas, (he's a old RC racer and used to compete) and so the missus bought me a Tamiya DT02 Holiday Buggy for Christmas as something different and up my street ( Im a Mechanical Engineer by trade and have numerous Land Rovers Motorbikes etc haha) So, I spent Christmas day building the buggy, dead pleased with it - very quickly came to realized I needed the proper Tamiya Screwdrivers lol. Only I didn't have any of the radio gear so have had to wait for that to arrive ha. Ran the car a few times with the Father in laws to discover the out of the Box 380 motor was a bit slow compared to his GT tuned one haha. So, so far The car has got a Flysky 2.4Ghz system, a Overlander 3300Mah Nimh battery and a HK servo. I have also purchased some oil dampers, and have since discovered the springs are a bit stiff ha. Have purchased a 3racing ball bearing set and also some drive-shafts, now herein lies the problem. These are the drive-shafts and cups Ive ordered, the drive-shafts fit the standard cups fine, however the cups that I have ordered are too small, I have ordered the same cups that were quoted on TheRCRacer article. Sorry for the large first post, but thought you guys might like to know the story ha. heres some photos; Regards Matt
  8. Some recent topics have recalled my attention to car I loved to drive: the TA01. This afternoon pushed from the resto holy fire I've rescued some parts (some come from my Lancia Delta, some from a TA01 I've purchsed years ago as donor car and some come from a Manta Ray that came for free from a friend).
  9. I'm going to introduce you a RC blog. Although the blog is in Japanese, but this guy is really good. Not only Avante, but also Hotshot, Samurai, Optima etc. Avante: page 3: http://sohmioaa.blog.shinobi.jp/%E3%82%A2%E3%83%90%E3%83%B3%E3%83%86%EF%BC%88avante-/?pageNo=3 page 2: http://sohmioaa.blog.shinobi.jp/%E3%82%A2%E3%83%90%E3%83%B3%E3%83%86%EF%BC%88avante-/?pageNo=2 page 1: http://sohmioaa.blog.shinobi.jp/%E3%82%A2%E3%83%90%E3%83%B3%E3%83%86%EF%BC%88avante-/
  10. I have found an original SRB! It was found dismantled in a shed at an estate sale, looks to be about 90% complete in terms of parts. The odd thing is that the gearbox seems to have some sort of glue sealing it, not much so opening it shouldn't be a difficult task. Would make a fantastic parts car or candidate for restoration. I found the electronics in a separate box, but unfortunately the wires seem to have been clipped. Unfortunate, but they are included if you would like to re-solder or rewire them. Bearings are also included for those that want to make this a running model. As expected the gearbox will need to be shimmed since it has clearly been sitting for a while. I have attached some pictures, and the rear dampeners and the pinion are included, they are just hidden in the chassis tub. Here are the image links: http://postimg.org/image/47u1ap9yv/ http://postimg.org/image/8i8p6af1z/ http://postimg.org/image/5bj7js0xj/ http://postimg.org/image/ak96kjd13/ Willing to let it go for 65$ plus shipping or trade for re-re kits or kyosho mini z optima, show us what you have to offer. The buyer will be responsible for the cost of shipping. I am located in the USA so shipping within the states shouldn't be to much since in this dismantled state it should fit in a large flat rate box. I always ship with a tracking number if possible. I am willing to ship the item out of country/over seas for my UK friends but the buyer will still be responsible for shipping costs. If a trade is made, we will each pay for the shipping of our own piece and we will provide tracking numbers. Otherwise, payments are to be made via paypal only. So let me know what you guys think, at this time not willing to part it out, if nothing happens here I'll just hold on to her.
  11. Hi everyone, neubie here. Sorry for not making a post introducing me and my truck before even asking for your help, but before i could finish to build my truck i had some issues that i can find solution anywhere, and i was wondering if you guys could help me solve it. My main problem is that whenever i trhottle foward or reverse a beep starts to sound, and if I dare to shift gears it all starts failing, steering and shifting go crazy, hazard lights start flashing and a beeping start and the only way of stoping this is turning off the truck/mfc and transmitter (Futaba Attack 4ywd). I've tried everything, changing cables plugins, trying to run the truck in rc mode, but every time i shift it all go crazy. I've tried teaching the mfc as the manual suggest, but when i get to stage C, teaching shifting, the motor starts running and thats the sign the teaching fail. Sorry for my bad english, i hope you can help me, i'm getting really frustrated here. Thanks in advance. Regards
  12. Wanted, the servo horn for the TL01. I don't want to buy a whole parts sprue if I can help it. Would also accept the servo horn and servo aver if its all together. Many thanks James
  13. I am looking for a Tamiya Mitsubishi Lancer Evo V WRC Bodyset, new or used (good condition) Preferably boxart colours if in used condition. If you can let me know what you have, paypal money sitting waiting to be spent Thanks James
  14. I recently got back into R/C cars and picked up the re-release of the Bruiser I could never afford as a kid. After doing some research I chose a Futaba 3PM-X to get the 3 step switch to control the gear box and 2 Futaba S3010 servos. Not sure if one was necessary for the gear box vs a standard servo. I locked the rear diff and left the front unlocked since I'm probably going to be running mostly in low 4WD or low 2WD. For the ESC I chose a Novak 1835 Eiger 2S/3S Crawling Brushed ESC. I'm leaving the stock motor in for now which is a 540. The last things I need are the battery packs and a charger. I'm not exactly sure what my options are based on my setup. My super old Tamiyas used to run Nicd batteries I believe. I'm interested in getting decent run times longer than 10-15 minutes.
  15. I've always loved the Peugeot 306 Maxi. It looks great and sounds fantastic! Tamiya's recreation is perfect and I thought how I just had to have one! After searching for a car for a while I found a kit without a body on eBay. From the pictures, the car looked in reasonable condition, but far from mint. It arrived a few days later and I was pleasantly surprised by what I found under all the grime! As soon as I got my hands on it, I took it apart. It was in fantastic condition and looked hardly used. It was as if it was used many years ago a few times, and put on a shelf to collect grime! I added many new parts from my M03 spares box. New Tamiya diff, new Bearings throughout, new shafts from diff to wheel, new steering hubs, new ball joints, new servo saver, new battery trays, new rear hubs, new rear axles to name a few of the parts added to the FF02 chassis. I took out the ugly manual speed controller and added a new TEU-104BK which is definitely more pleasing to the eye! The car also had Acoms radio gear and silver can motor. I noticed that the beautiful Speedline wheels had yellowed, so I plan to replace those in the future. Perhaps with a set from the FF03 Honda Accord Aero-Custom? For the chassis, I obviously needed a body. £65 for a Maxi body on eBay I feel is rather excessive, so I didn't want to pay that! After surfing the Internet, I emailed Stella Models to see if they had one. They managed to find one for me and I payed a far more reasonable price. Fantastic service from Stella Models, and it arrived in just over a week from Hong Kong! Now I just need to get the body painted and the new wheels bought. It should be finished soon, so I will update the thread when it is complete. Expect a lot of photos! Thanks Sam
  16. This is probably going to be a long shot, due to the fact I cannot find even ONE of these in the UK, but does anyone have a spare set of Tamiya Aqroshot stickers laying around that they do not want? The item number is 319495852 if that's of any help, the chassis is the DT-03T, though that's probably less help. Like I said, long shot... but if anyone has one, please do let me know ASAP. Many thanks.
  17. One thing I've been curious about for a while due to the sheer volume of Tamiya static models that are WW2 related, many of which are of German military vehicles but also soldiers, uniforms, etc is how does this work in countries such as Germany where Nazi symbolism is illegal? If I'm not mistaken, you can't buy stuff like the below (legally, anyway) in Germany... and probably other European countries. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with the subject? I'm just really curious. Are historical models exempt? Surely it must be OK to own and display these things in academic settings. Where is the line drawn?
  18. Having bought this earlier this year and scanned through the many many pictures of offer (its all in Japanese so unfortunately I can't say I read through it at all) , I have decided to sell this on and let someone else appreciate it too. I was very careful when browsing it not to force any pages open too far etc, and so the book sits almost like brand new. Not a single mark or tear or blemish on it at all and no discolouration either. The book/catalogue, is 148 pages all full colour. With loads of hop up parts listings in colour too. Will be sent very very carefully packaged and covered in rigid cardboard as not to damage it at all, the price includes UK postage for this (will post overseas but at cost) , would make a nice Xmas addition. So I am asking exactly what I paid for it, £24 posted is the price. More items coming soon including loads of RC Line UP Booklets. Thanks James
  19. Tamiya "Tracked Vehicle Chassis Kit" & Carrera "1957 Chevrolet Bel Air Custom"
  20. For those who've collected new in box vintage Tamiya kits, or vintage kits and models from any other brands... Just interested to hear how you store them these days. Shelving - do you have a dedicated shelf space for them? Stacking - do you store them stacked, with one box on top of the other? How high do you stack? Vertical or Horizontal - do you lie the boxes down, or stand them vertically? Bags - do you keep them in bags of any kind, for protection? Display - do you have the good fortune of being able to have some kits on display? Or are they all packed in your closet/bathroom/minivan/grandma's kitchen? Climate/humidity - are they in a room with consistent temperature? Vaults - are your kits in the house? In the roof? In a shed? In a chook pen? Underground? In the Cloud? Security - Alarms? Rottweilers? Geese? For security, I enjoy the Weyland Yutani UA 571-C Remote Sentry Weapon System, as it has the convenience of self-targeting. Although it does require re-arming more often than I'd like, causing me to have to get off the couch. Also, cracked blisters... Cracked blisters are common in vintage kits, particularly the one for the motor. People have said over the years that this is caused by standing kits vertically, due to the weight of the motor gradually causing the blister to break. But do we have definitive proof of this? Does mere vertical standing of the box cause the cracking? It seems weird in a way, for the blister to crack along specific lines, when the kit is sitting completely still, on a shelf. I could imagine the blister peeling away from the cardboard as a result of this. But not cracking. Perhaps the cracking occurs more due to transportation, where the motor rattles around more inside the blister and deteriorates the blister. Kits that are 30 years old or more, may have been transported many times - in cars, planes, boats. Carried across borders, under fences. Along drains, sewers. People sprinting through fields, ducking and weaving past other collectors. Or dodging the bullets from a Weyland Yutani UA 571-C RSWS*. Or perhaps cracked blisters have simply been exposed to more light, as this is definitely something that will deteriorate the thin plastic. Thoughts? H. * Not possible.
  21. I'm after a Tamiya Toyota Corolla WRC new kit or shelf queen condition car on the TA03F-S chassis. Also, I'm after a mint condition Tamiya 306 Maxi box! Thanks, Sam
  22. As above, after a Tamiya FF02 chassis spacer. Thanks, Sam
  23. Hi! I have a feeling I may be looking for something that doesn't exist anymore, but I figured it can't hurt to ask. Need a body for a M1025 "Hummer". If you have one that's serviceable please let me know.
  24. Hi, I'm having a clear out of my Tamiya M05s. I really haven't used the cars, but this is still a reluctant sale. The price may seem high, but for it all new it would be around £1,000! M05 Pro: Fantastic condition, used a handful of times, like new! Tamiya Carbon Front Damper Stay Tamiya Blue Alloy Front Hubs 3Racung BlueAlloy C Hubs Tamiya Universal Shafts 3Racing Differential Tamiya Ball Bearings 3Racing Blue Alloy Steering Link Tamiya Blue Alloy Steering Set Tamiya Silver Alloy Steering Posts (Slight Issue with screw, doesn't effect steering) Tamiya Alloy Rear Hubs Tamiya Stabiliser Kit Carbon Rear Damper Stay Tamiya BlueAlloy Motor Mount 3Racing Blue Alloy Motor Heatsink TRF Bronze Dampers (Not Silver Dampers pictured on car) Electronics: Savox 1251 Servo Hobbywing Xerun 60a 2S ESC Hobbywing Programming Box Hobbywing Ezrun 13t Motor Tamiya TRF Bronze Dampers (Not Silver Dampers pictured on car) M05RA: Great Condition, fairly new gears and shafts, not used often. Ball Bearings 3Racing Universal Joints 3Racing Alloy Motor Mount 3Racing Alloy Steering Set Electronics: LRP Spin Super ESC HPI Flux Motor 13.5t Futaba Servo (Please not, Oil Dampers on the front of the M05RA are not included) M05: Good condition, spare car, hasn't been used much by me. 1 Crack on front of chassis, doesn't effect performance. Tamiya Silver M03 Alloy Front Hubs Tamiya New Driveshafts Tamiya TRF Bronze Dampers Ball Bearings 3Racjng Alloy Rear Hubs Electronics: Savox Water Proof Servo Podium Brushed ESC HPI Saturn 20t Motor Spares: Carbon Front Bumper x4 Front Wishbones x1 Rear Wishbone x4 Friction Dampers x4 Roll Bars x1 Steering Bar x1 M03 Battery Holder x3 M05 Front Uprights x1 M03 Front Ipright x3 M05 Rear Hubs x2 M03 Rear Hubs x1 M05 Rear Suspension Block x3 M05 C Hubs x2 M03 C Hubs x7 M05 Rear Suspension Mounts x1 M05 Battery Holder x1 M05 Front Bumper x2 M05 Electrics Trays x1 Transponder Holder x4 Battery Bars x1 Compete Chassis Set minus Right Side x1 B Parts (Minus a Plastic motor mount) x2 C Parts (Minus a few parts) x1 3Racing Ball diff x2 Standard Tamiya Diff x1 Spare Gear x4 Bushings Shells: Tamiya Swift S1600: Good condition, few scuffs, minor cracks (under 1cm) Blitz Mini C30: Raced condition, paint scuffed under tape and 2 cracks over arches (Still useable though) Blitz Mini RS4 (Spider-Man): Shoo-Gooed and sticker under the paint on inside. No cracks. HPI Blue Mini: Used once, well painted, 1 dent. Looks great on a car, stripes painted not stickers. HPI Flame Mini: Shoo-gooed, race condition, glitter in paint, flames painted not stickers. Wheels: 1 Set of used Grey Minilite wheels, Tamiya Tyres. 1 Set of used 3Racing wheels with Tamiya Tyres. 1 Pair of used Sweep wheels and tyres 1 Set of new Sweep Racing Wheels in Packet. 1 Set of used Tamiya Rally blocks on Swift Wheels (On M05RA) Also: Etronix Stick Transmitter (Great Condition) Etronix Receiver (Case around bottom cracked and stuck back together, works fine). Tamiya M05 Manual (please note, the Spektrem receivers pictures are not included.) Will not split unless the price is right. £520 (ono) collected (will post, but due to vast amount of stuff I would rather it collected!) Thanks for reading Sam
  25. Hi, I'm after a Tamiya 306 Maxi FF02 Kit (NIB) or a someone's shelf queen. Equally, I will be open to body sheets and cars in reasonable condition. I'm also looking for a NIB Xsara and Focus WRC kit but am still open to good condition built cars and body sets. Thanks for reading, Sam
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