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Found 226 results

  1. I have two original Tamiya RC2400SP 2400mAh Ni-Cd batteries up for sale like the one in the picture. They have not been used in a long time but I am pretty sure that a few cycles would revive them. They are in very good shape appearence-wise so they can be actually used for display purposes as well. I am asking for 20€ for each of those or 35€ for both. I will accept offers on those. Shipping is free for Europe. Please note that the green sticker can be removed (it was there to tell the 2 batteries apart)
  2. Hi All, I*m new here, treat me nice ;-) I've bought a Bruiser off eBay, with the idea being to restore and re-build where necessary. I work on computers every day, so this is a great way for me to work with my hands and get my mind away from computers and screens! I bought it as a semit-complete kit - so the chassis & running gear are are all there, with working electrics, but the body needs to be completed, and there are two seemingly serious issues to deal with before the truck can run... But, the last time I worked on an RC car was about 30 years ago and it was fleeting - when I was a kid this was the thing I wanted to do but my parents couldn't afford for me to do, so it was only with a few friends once or twice! So basically I'm new to this, and have probably bitten off a bit more than I should to start with. [To remedy that, I've bought a bunch of Grasshoppers off ebay too, which I'm going to work on as well - time to satisfaction much faster!] So I have some questions which I hope the folks here can help with: 1) slop on the front axle? When I put on the wheels, there was a bit of slop which I put down to tightening. Now that I've spent more time on the truck, I can see that the hub shafts are moving around in the knuckles too much. More tightening, or is this normal? What to do? 2) what should it sound like? What should a good motor + running gear sound like when it's running - what are the warning signs for more grease / bad lubrication / problems / etc etc? 3) shifting the tranny? This thread from Nitomor is excellent, and it's highlighted how important it is to get the shifting right. My one only shifts into 4wd drive if I really push the rod as far as it can go manually with my fingers, certainly can't do it with the servo alone - so how do I adjust this so that the servo can do it for me? What are the measurements I should be watching out for? 4) what servos to use? Again, the thread from Nitomor is great for inspiration! Would metal gear servos be good as a matter of course? What ones are recommended? Which is tougher on the servo - direction (left / right) or shifting the tranny? I'm in the UK, so any suggestions on what to get would be appreciated. Could follow Nitomor exactly, but then sounds like his Bruiser is mostly for the shelf, so wonder if there are better options? Also, which servo saver? Mine has new white circular ones on the tranny servo. 5) what transmitter to use? I can get the transmitter to shift into the 2wd gears no problem, but moving the rod far enough back to switch into 4wd reliably, then keep it there, seems to be beyond the transmitter / servo combination. Is there a way to tune this I'm missing? Again related to the servo question - seems like using a gate on the transmitter is a bit of a hack if you can use a switch instead? Seems like if the switch can do Neutral, Left & Right, then you've got the 3 speed shifting you need? If so, which transmitter is recommended? Would any 6 or 7 channel transmitter within budget work, or are there specific models only? Nitomor is using the Futaba FF7, and there is a guy who posted a build using a Carson tx - so what should I be looking for? Lastly, I'm not building this for the shelf - this is being built to run around with my kids. I'm hoping to hop on a GoPro or similar so that I can take photos of my kids running around without having to actually keep up with them ;-) So when answering please bear that in mind - I'm not looking for beauty or perfect lines, mainly something that will last and will be bomb-proof, much like my real life 1:1 Bruiser! Cool, over to you guys, thanks in advance!
  3. I am selling two sets of classic tamiya Piaa Accord VTEC wheels and Celica GT-Four racing radial tires 50724 and 50419. Both wheels and tires are 26mm and the wheels have +2mm offset and use 12mm hexes. Wheels also include wheel nuts. Tires come without inserts. I am missing the label for the second set of wheels. Nice combo for rally and drift applications.These wheels are not aceton friendly.I am asking for 30€ for everything but items can be also sold seperately for 7€ for a single tire set and 8€ for the single wheels set. I am also willing to take offers. These need to go! Might consider trading these for a set of HPI 26mm wheels or a set of x-pattern tires. Shipping is free for Europe.
  4. Good condition TXT-1. Driven twice (the second time, one of my dear children drove the front tire into a curb at an odd angle cracking the front axle guard - it has been replaced with the stronger carbon re-enforced part off the TXT-2 see the last pic). It's missing one body post that I don't seem to be able to find in my hobby room (which can be had off eBay for $15 shipped - or the TamiyaUSA web site has it for $6 - but the body is fine without it as it rests on the bumper). Asking $300 CAD, pickup in Whitby Canada greatly preferred
  5. I have a brand new built Tamiya TRF414M2 with all available Hop-Up Options. This is a rare collector's item now. Hop-Ups installed: 49219 TRF414M2 Chassis 49320 Lightweight Aluminum Servo Stay (Blue) 49258 TRF414 Front Stabilizers (Pair) 49269 TRF414M Lightweight Front Bulkhead 49270 TRF414M Lightweight Rear Bulkhead 49271 TRF414M Lightweight Motor Plate AO-5017 TRF415 Carbon Bumper Support 51065 TRF415 Suspension Mount (A) 51067 TRF415 Suspension Mount (C) 53480 TA04 Lightweight Diff Joint Set 53638 6mm Aluminum Ball Nut (Blue) 53681 Titanium Wheel Axle For Assembly Universal Shaft 53612 TA04 Racing Front One-way Unit 53687 TB Evolution III Aluminum Rear Upright (1°) 54130 TB-03D Aluminum Wheel Hubs (Brake Disc Shaped) 542XX Aluminum Turnbuckle Shaft 3454071 Bulkhead Beam (Pair) £1000 plus international shipping and handling fees.
  6. At this point I decided to consider my Brat as finished... ok it's not finished but it's like when a maul doesn't go forward or when the book you are reading lays a part for much times. My next project will involve my CR01: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=73542 already modified but with some corrections needed.
  7. Thanks for approving mods! Hello everyone, Having been following the listings of vintage Hilux 4x4 3 speeds and parts on ebay for about 2 years, after really getting to appreciate these metal three speeds following the build up of my Brusier Rere, I finally decided to venture into the vintage game and purchase a 35 year old RC. It's incredible how well designed and special these 3 speeds feel particularly for the era in which they were built, which happens to be my favourite decade anyway...the Magnificent 80's!! After seeing a spate of these get snapped up on ebay and prices seemingly creeping north, I finally decided to buy this on ebay last week, very soon after it was listed. It was listed on Italian ebay and I stumbled on it by chance in the stupid early hours of the morning as my search hadn't picked it up when it was listed and I'd been scouring ebay for days before. Needless to say it was a very tidy looking example. A few bits were immediately apparent. The transistor internals looked to be missing as did the third servo gubbins (I was planning to run an esc in the transistor box anyway), some link rods for the other 2 servos, the plate that runs between the tranny shift rod and the stabilising rod above it missing, motor wires cut, perished gearbox plugs and a small dink in the front bumper lower bar. None of this put me off it much neither did the lack of radio equipment or servos as I had my own plan in mind for that. The description said very little, basically that it was near to perfect condition, clear coated, no electrics and what you see is what you get. I've been permanently excited about receiving this over the last few days with a touch of apprehension about whether it would actually be as good as the pics, whether it would arrive undamaged and in fact whether it would arrive at all!! To keep my mind occupied, I cracked out some vintage wheels which I bought a long time ago (to experiment with something on the Bruiser) and decided to have a go at painting the Good Year logo's on. I did one wheel and the wife the other. Mine was on the left, hers looks better in the pic, mine looks a bit finer in the flesh Another update soon! Cheers
  8. I have been building a Tamiya Bruiser Hilux over the last 6 months which I bought just before Xmas last year. I didn't start the build until after xmas during the holiday period and managed to complete the chassis for the most part in those couple of weeks. I have documented the build in depth as I went (for another forum) since I couldn't access this one at the time but it seems a shame not to mirror it on here where it will no doubt be appreciated more. It is not yet complete so I will post up the steps which take me to where I am now. It has been an awesome build and hopefully it'll give those considering one a taste of what it is like to build one. I sat on the fence for a long time with this because it is a substantial outlay but what an epic build and model it is. My apologies in advance since this was written at the time and so it might seem a little strange in the use of the past tense but I'm carrying much of the diary over as I wrote it then, to capture the spirit/mindset at the time of build. So here's where it started..... The box art; Box contents; Chassis and axles; all set out ready for start The kit comes with these tools; Parts bag A. Comes with threadlock paste and grease etc. Thankfully, unlike other Tamiya kits where you are constantly reaching for other part bags each containing the necesary parts for particular steps, it appears that the bruiser kit is in proper part bag steps, so steps 1-9 appear to pertain purely to parts bag A which should keep things somewhat tidier. more to follow...
  9. Howdy, I’m half way through the Tamiya Enterprise model and I was hoping some super sleuths on here might be able to give me some much needed advice… I want to try and give the top of this section an almost asphalt feel, slightly rough. I also want to put a light grey wash on it Now, I was thinking of buying some very fine sandpaper and giving the whole side a consistent rub down, some sections around the take-off area’s will be a little rougher.. but I’m talking about a very fine grit and a very light rub. Then going over it wish a light grey wash, to lighten it all up a tad. 2 hobby shops have given me different suggestions, one recommended a spray that gave off an asphalt appear, the other said to use a light adhesive spray then place some very fine greyish looking.. rough/gritty powder type of substance I’ll only get one shot at it so any idea’s are appreciated! Thanks all from down under! J
  10. Well I’m happy to say that I’m the proud owner of a vintage Clod Buster that I won on eBay this morning (apologies to any TC members who I sniped I just had to have one in my life!) I’ll pick her up tomorrow and the plan is to bring her back to box art so I can re-live yet another missed childhood dream. Couple of questions… Firstly, would you guys recommend keeping the original shell as the runner and purchasing a new body & decals for the shelf or should I restore the body and just have the one? I plan on running her, how hard I’m not sure but she will do some clodding around… Just not sure if it’s financially viable to go ahead and purchase a new shell and decals… From what I can gather it looks like $200AUD is about the cheapest I could get that for!!! The second question is around electrics… I want to use LiPo’s and an ESC – I’ll probably just keep the motors or put in maybe Sport Tuned in there. What is a good reasonably prices ESC and also servos for this truck in your opinions? My days are passed of purchasing the highest quality Hitec servos (literally been there done that with the 1/5 gas cars) so now am all about the balance of good enough, cheap enough as I am yet to find problems even with Turnigy Lipo’s and Hobby King servos! But the torque recommendations would be appreciated. I am using this in the Bruiser, which seems ok: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=51179 I have read on here that a few have used this, however with the Clod do I need two or a specific two motor esc? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__46161__HobbyKing_X_Car_45A_Brushed_Car_ESC_AU_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=HobbyKing%20X-Car%2045A%20Brushed%20Ca Anyhow, thanks guys for the brains trust.
  11. I joined the vintage 3 speeder gang this morning! After watching these for many months, it seems there is no letting up in interest making snapping up a bargain seem increasingly more difficult. By pure chance, despite searching for these every evening I came across an Italian listing this morning that my usual search had neglected to pick up. It was exactly what I've been after, a tidy box art vintage Hilux. The buy it now or make offer was a fair bit more than I wanted to pay but after putting my rusty italian to good use and a bit of back and forwards early this morning we came to an agreement and in a moment of madness I decided it was my time to bite the bullet. In fairness I probably paid £100-150 more than I would have been happy with but with the rarity of finding just what I'm after, such is the price of admission I guess and he who hesitates is lost. Here are some pics, it will hopefully be making its journey from Italy tomorrow morning. I'm really excited about this, it is my first and will probably be my only foray into the truly vintage side of the hobby. Having enjoyed the whole build process with a rere Bruiser, which really made me marvel and appreciate these three speeders, I'm hoping it'll be that much more special owning a 35 year old real deal. I love the more scaler looks of the original Hilux and it'll compliment the Bruiser and Mountain rider very nicely. A few bits I've noticed, seems to be some servo hardware missing and maybe the spring on the gear shifter, the gearbox rubbers look shot for some reason, the rubber tabs are missing from the latches on the electronics box, there are no electrics (transistor box looks empty) but that's cool because I wanted to fit a modern esc in the original casing anyway so this allows me to do that without guilt. The shell looks lovely and has been clear coated, I hope it's as good as it looks though I wouldn't have minded doing a refurb on one. There is some tyre lettering needed and I'll need to source a manual so I can strip and rebuild the Gbox. It looks a nice one but of course I'm a little aprehensive now until it physically turns up!! The countdown begins...
  12. I PROMISED myself that I would leave the Lunchbox alone... I mean, why would I upgrade a "truck" worth about $100? The upgrades would far exceed the price very quickly... Well a few opening statements about Vanessa for me to start off with, she is what has draaaaaggggggggggggged me back into RC AGAIN and more importantly, into Tamiya and led me to you pack of nut cases Good, bad or indifferent, she has been a joy to drive and bash like heck and it's not about the money at all actually, it's about the good ol' fun of RC and loving the car you have, and that means for me using it like all heck then upgrading as needed. Well that time has come. I looked for many months for suspension but just couldn't justify it, finally I gave in and got some GMade as they are fantastic build quality and really cheap for what they are. I would have loved Tamiya CVAs for this but they're too hard to find and too expensive. I also LASHED out on an ultra expensive ESC from HobbyKing The final piece of the puzzle for now is arguably the most important, the 2S Lipo Well, I'll post pics as we go here, I assume the final (LOL) upgrade will be the front A-Arms.
  13. Hey guys, Im a new member, new to the RC Car scene, I have always been interested in RC models, and I always liked the Tamiya Dark Impact and HPI Savage 4x4. The missus's dad bought himself a Holiday Buggy for Christmas, (he's a old RC racer and used to compete) and so the missus bought me a Tamiya DT02 Holiday Buggy for Christmas as something different and up my street ( Im a Mechanical Engineer by trade and have numerous Land Rovers Motorbikes etc haha) So, I spent Christmas day building the buggy, dead pleased with it - very quickly came to realized I needed the proper Tamiya Screwdrivers lol. Only I didn't have any of the radio gear so have had to wait for that to arrive ha. Ran the car a few times with the Father in laws to discover the out of the Box 380 motor was a bit slow compared to his GT tuned one haha. So, so far The car has got a Flysky 2.4Ghz system, a Overlander 3300Mah Nimh battery and a HK servo. I have also purchased some oil dampers, and have since discovered the springs are a bit stiff ha. Have purchased a 3racing ball bearing set and also some drive-shafts, now herein lies the problem. These are the drive-shafts and cups Ive ordered, the drive-shafts fit the standard cups fine, however the cups that I have ordered are too small, I have ordered the same cups that were quoted on TheRCRacer article. Sorry for the large first post, but thought you guys might like to know the story ha. heres some photos; Regards Matt
  14. Some recent topics have recalled my attention to car I loved to drive: the TA01. This afternoon pushed from the resto holy fire I've rescued some parts (some come from my Lancia Delta, some from a TA01 I've purchsed years ago as donor car and some come from a Manta Ray that came for free from a friend).
  15. I'm going to introduce you a RC blog. Although the blog is in Japanese, but this guy is really good. Not only Avante, but also Hotshot, Samurai, Optima etc. Avante: page 3: http://sohmioaa.blog.shinobi.jp/%E3%82%A2%E3%83%90%E3%83%B3%E3%83%86%EF%BC%88avante-/?pageNo=3 page 2: http://sohmioaa.blog.shinobi.jp/%E3%82%A2%E3%83%90%E3%83%B3%E3%83%86%EF%BC%88avante-/?pageNo=2 page 1: http://sohmioaa.blog.shinobi.jp/%E3%82%A2%E3%83%90%E3%83%B3%E3%83%86%EF%BC%88avante-/
  16. I have found an original SRB! It was found dismantled in a shed at an estate sale, looks to be about 90% complete in terms of parts. The odd thing is that the gearbox seems to have some sort of glue sealing it, not much so opening it shouldn't be a difficult task. Would make a fantastic parts car or candidate for restoration. I found the electronics in a separate box, but unfortunately the wires seem to have been clipped. Unfortunate, but they are included if you would like to re-solder or rewire them. Bearings are also included for those that want to make this a running model. As expected the gearbox will need to be shimmed since it has clearly been sitting for a while. I have attached some pictures, and the rear dampeners and the pinion are included, they are just hidden in the chassis tub. Here are the image links: http://postimg.org/image/47u1ap9yv/ http://postimg.org/image/8i8p6af1z/ http://postimg.org/image/5bj7js0xj/ http://postimg.org/image/ak96kjd13/ Willing to let it go for 65$ plus shipping or trade for re-re kits or kyosho mini z optima, show us what you have to offer. The buyer will be responsible for the cost of shipping. I am located in the USA so shipping within the states shouldn't be to much since in this dismantled state it should fit in a large flat rate box. I always ship with a tracking number if possible. I am willing to ship the item out of country/over seas for my UK friends but the buyer will still be responsible for shipping costs. If a trade is made, we will each pay for the shipping of our own piece and we will provide tracking numbers. Otherwise, payments are to be made via paypal only. So let me know what you guys think, at this time not willing to part it out, if nothing happens here I'll just hold on to her.
  17. Hi everyone, neubie here. Sorry for not making a post introducing me and my truck before even asking for your help, but before i could finish to build my truck i had some issues that i can find solution anywhere, and i was wondering if you guys could help me solve it. My main problem is that whenever i trhottle foward or reverse a beep starts to sound, and if I dare to shift gears it all starts failing, steering and shifting go crazy, hazard lights start flashing and a beeping start and the only way of stoping this is turning off the truck/mfc and transmitter (Futaba Attack 4ywd). I've tried everything, changing cables plugins, trying to run the truck in rc mode, but every time i shift it all go crazy. I've tried teaching the mfc as the manual suggest, but when i get to stage C, teaching shifting, the motor starts running and thats the sign the teaching fail. Sorry for my bad english, i hope you can help me, i'm getting really frustrated here. Thanks in advance. Regards
  18. Wanted, the servo horn for the TL01. I don't want to buy a whole parts sprue if I can help it. Would also accept the servo horn and servo aver if its all together. Many thanks James
  19. I am looking for a Tamiya Mitsubishi Lancer Evo V WRC Bodyset, new or used (good condition) Preferably boxart colours if in used condition. If you can let me know what you have, paypal money sitting waiting to be spent Thanks James
  20. I recently got back into R/C cars and picked up the re-release of the Bruiser I could never afford as a kid. After doing some research I chose a Futaba 3PM-X to get the 3 step switch to control the gear box and 2 Futaba S3010 servos. Not sure if one was necessary for the gear box vs a standard servo. I locked the rear diff and left the front unlocked since I'm probably going to be running mostly in low 4WD or low 2WD. For the ESC I chose a Novak 1835 Eiger 2S/3S Crawling Brushed ESC. I'm leaving the stock motor in for now which is a 540. The last things I need are the battery packs and a charger. I'm not exactly sure what my options are based on my setup. My super old Tamiyas used to run Nicd batteries I believe. I'm interested in getting decent run times longer than 10-15 minutes.
  21. I've always loved the Peugeot 306 Maxi. It looks great and sounds fantastic! Tamiya's recreation is perfect and I thought how I just had to have one! After searching for a car for a while I found a kit without a body on eBay. From the pictures, the car looked in reasonable condition, but far from mint. It arrived a few days later and I was pleasantly surprised by what I found under all the grime! As soon as I got my hands on it, I took it apart. It was in fantastic condition and looked hardly used. It was as if it was used many years ago a few times, and put on a shelf to collect grime! I added many new parts from my M03 spares box. New Tamiya diff, new Bearings throughout, new shafts from diff to wheel, new steering hubs, new ball joints, new servo saver, new battery trays, new rear hubs, new rear axles to name a few of the parts added to the FF02 chassis. I took out the ugly manual speed controller and added a new TEU-104BK which is definitely more pleasing to the eye! The car also had Acoms radio gear and silver can motor. I noticed that the beautiful Speedline wheels had yellowed, so I plan to replace those in the future. Perhaps with a set from the FF03 Honda Accord Aero-Custom? For the chassis, I obviously needed a body. £65 for a Maxi body on eBay I feel is rather excessive, so I didn't want to pay that! After surfing the Internet, I emailed Stella Models to see if they had one. They managed to find one for me and I payed a far more reasonable price. Fantastic service from Stella Models, and it arrived in just over a week from Hong Kong! Now I just need to get the body painted and the new wheels bought. It should be finished soon, so I will update the thread when it is complete. Expect a lot of photos! Thanks Sam
  22. This is probably going to be a long shot, due to the fact I cannot find even ONE of these in the UK, but does anyone have a spare set of Tamiya Aqroshot stickers laying around that they do not want? The item number is 319495852 if that's of any help, the chassis is the DT-03T, though that's probably less help. Like I said, long shot... but if anyone has one, please do let me know ASAP. Many thanks.
  23. One thing I've been curious about for a while due to the sheer volume of Tamiya static models that are WW2 related, many of which are of German military vehicles but also soldiers, uniforms, etc is how does this work in countries such as Germany where Nazi symbolism is illegal? If I'm not mistaken, you can't buy stuff like the below (legally, anyway) in Germany... and probably other European countries. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with the subject? I'm just really curious. Are historical models exempt? Surely it must be OK to own and display these things in academic settings. Where is the line drawn?
  24. Having bought this earlier this year and scanned through the many many pictures of offer (its all in Japanese so unfortunately I can't say I read through it at all) , I have decided to sell this on and let someone else appreciate it too. I was very careful when browsing it not to force any pages open too far etc, and so the book sits almost like brand new. Not a single mark or tear or blemish on it at all and no discolouration either. The book/catalogue, is 148 pages all full colour. With loads of hop up parts listings in colour too. Will be sent very very carefully packaged and covered in rigid cardboard as not to damage it at all, the price includes UK postage for this (will post overseas but at cost) , would make a nice Xmas addition. So I am asking exactly what I paid for it, £24 posted is the price. More items coming soon including loads of RC Line UP Booklets. Thanks James
  25. Tamiya "Tracked Vehicle Chassis Kit" & Carrera "1957 Chevrolet Bel Air Custom"
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