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Found 263 results

  1. Hey everyone! I was looking for a new Low-Profile Servo for an upcoming build. I planned on buying the TSU06. Now I see that it says its not compatible with TEU302BK and TEU105BK. Since I am using a GT Tuned Motor, I was planning to use a TEU105BK ESC, which I have a lots of units lying around here. What is the point here? The ESC has a BEC build in, but does that TSU06 draw so much power? What are my alternative options? Savöx 1251/1252? I doubt they would work. They have basically the same specifications...?! Thanks
  2. Hello, I am thinking of buying a new motor for my 1:10 scale Tamiya Alpine A110 Jägermeister R/C car, i currently have the stock engine that came with the car, and i am stuck deciding between the Tamiya 540 Sport Tuned Black version and the Tamiya GT Tuned Motor. If anybody can tell me what is better, i would really appreciate it! Thanks -olx
  3. I read a review somewhere that mentioned that tamiya has improved plastics on some models. I assume this includes the BBX. Does anyone know of other kits with improved parts? Perhaps the Blockhead Motors line?
  4. For sale is a Tamiya Opel Calibra V6. Comes with battery, Tamiya Torque Tuned motor and Absima S90MH servo. Built with full ball bearing kit. No transmitter included, but does have a Carson Reflex receiver still installed. Can obviously be replaced by one of your own. Body shell painted and completed with decals. Also complete with original box. Shipping to UK only. £250, with DPD Next Day shipping included, fully tracked. PayPal preferred if possible. Let me know if you are interested!
  5. Hi all, I've just completed spraying 6 coats of Tamiya TS (41, coral blue) onto my Lunch Box (see pics below). FYI I waited 24 hours between each coat of paint. I understand that I should now let it "cure" for 7 days before applying stickers and clear coat? My intentions are: after curing, I will apply THESE stickers (Mystery Machine, vinyl) followed by two cans (approx 6 total coats) of TS-80 Clear Flat Spray. My understanding is that I will need plenty of clear-coat to smooth over the edges of these stickers (which are thicker than the stock Lunchbox decals provided by Tamiya). I'm also going for a matte look, which is why I opted for the TS-80, and why I will not be sanding my paintjob prior to spraying on the clear coat. Nonetheless, I'm curious to hear your tips about what to do PRE-clear coat, i.e. I recall someone suggesting washing the paint after curing with dish soap (I suppose to wash off all the paint dust? Up until now I've only used a paper towel and compressed air between each coat). In another thread, someone else wrote: What does "flash out" mean exactly? And how long is too long before the clear coat fails to "adhere chemically" to the paint? And in another thread, this user wrote: Why did this happen? And how to prevent it? Should I be concerned about the TS-80 Clear Flat Spray eating these vinyl stickers? Thanks in advance, I really appreciate everyone's feedback!
  6. I hope I don't sound like a complete idiot for asking this (because I'm sure the Tamiya designers/engineers put these here for a purpose), but nonetheless would it be okay if I covered up all those holes scattered around the Lunch Box (and Pumpkin) chassis? In addition to the sizeable circular hole in the bottom-middle of the chassis (which is centered directly above the battery compartment) there are about a dozen other little holes that I can't find any use for. See my attached pic where I have circled these (I'm not including the suspension holes, the on/off switch space, the servo space, or the gap for the engine wires, and I understand that at least one of these are for the antenna). I'm asking because I want to waterproof and sand-proof the chassis as much as possible as I will primarily be driving my Lunchbox at the beach and in sand dunes. As for the actual covering up, I was thinking of using a hot glue gun and/or duct tape. Other suggestions appreciated!
  7. So I'm on my first-ever Tamiya RC build (Lunch Box), and I've done all my research about how to properly primer and paint using TS spray-can paints (washing and sanding first, heating up the can, etc), and then today I begin the primer process (Tamiya-brand white fine surface primer for plastic), starting with this kit's stock deep-dish wheels...but none of the spray goes beyond the outter-most lips of the rim! Being sure to keep about 8 inches distance, and using light dusting strokes, I tried all sorts of angles (horizontal, vertical, diagonal, top-down), and some of the spray does hit the insides of the wheels for about 1-2 centimeter down, but absolutely no primer is hitting the very backs of the wheels' interior (where the holes are). It seems that the only way I could possibly get spray primer/paint in that deep is to hold the can's nozzle directly inside the wheel and blast it - which of course would cause it to become very thick and muck up. I've read that dye is an option (but since these wheels come yellow, and I want to color them TS-22 light-green, it might not work well), or I guess I could paint by hand with a brush. But I'd really love to hear and learn from anyone who has successfully spray-painted (airbrush not an option) their Lunchy wheels (or Midnight Pumpkin, since they seem to be the exact same wheels). PHOTOS ATTACHED Thanks!!! (I'm new here, please be gentle ;)
  8. Hey guys, I want to upgrade my 15~ years old tamiya manta ray, I've read a lot on the forums and I'm a bit confused, this is the first time I've decided to "open the hood" of the car. Right now I'm running Nimh batteries and I've decided to move to LIPO's. I ordered these parts: -Aluminum motor mount -x2 3S LIPO batt 2300mAh 45C -HobbyWing QuicRun 1060 brushed ESC 60A -53068 Tamiya high speed motor 540 Mabuchi -TA02 high gear set(66T/69T) -Aluminum main drive shaft for TA01/Top Force -Aluminum pitch 0.6 hard coated 25T pinion gear -Ceramic grease and 450 soft damper oil Maybe its too late, but according to what I checked those parts should be compatible to my RC car right? Is the 69T spur gear correct choice? My aim is to upgrade it, but I'm afraid to overstress the car, I just want it to still be reliable, I'm using it seldom times on dirt and roads. Any help would be appreciated , thanks!
  9. Hi all, So I have 4 unbuilt kits in the loft and an old school Monster beetle with a Acoms ( crystal) transmitter from 1985. What I want to do is to be able to control the new 4 unbuilt kits through 1 transmitter. I assume things are digital these days rather than analog. I need your recommendations as to how to do this and what is the best kit to buy. I’ve heard that this can be done.. just don’t know where to start. I can’t use the wheel style transmitters, so am only after the 2stick type transmitter. Based in the UK and getting back into RC’ing after a 38 yr hiatus!! My unbuilt kits are Wild One ( blockhead), 2011Avante, re re Hotshot and rere Sand Scorcher. I’ve also got the front body pillar that I can swap out and put the racing buggy body onto that chassis too.
  10. How to fix my RC. all wheels are moving in the same direction? I just want the front wheels move not the rear wheels lol. Please help! https://youtu.be/jkUvREW-f2I
  11. Hi anybody got one of these in their stash that they would be willing to sell. Preferably UK as overseas postage seems to be so high.
  12. Hi all I have just recently decided it would be good fun to return to this Hobby (35 years later) and see if its still is for me. Back in the day I had a Tamiya Fox and later a thundershot (the year of the OG release) needless to say the amount of data i had to collect to start filling the gap was overwhelming, I got a little lost, but fortunatly, there are places like this forum and also my best friend youtube was a great help... so what was my criteria: easy on the pocket: i had to buy everything from scratch: car, battery, charger, etc. all should fit in a relatively tight budget. a decent car: while budget is king, i didnt want anything that will make me unhappy with the purchase upgradable: I wanted to have the ability to upgrade the car if needed (parts, engine, gears) so community and part availability was important building it: I want to remind myself of the build experience inc. painting. easy operation: I want the car to work for me and not the other way around to keep things short, I went for a neo schorcher, but actually, I went for a TT02B based car (could have been another TT02B car). it seemed like it answered all of my criteria. (BTW, I had no idea what a TT02B was 2 weeks ago) for those who want to see the list of things I purchased with prices along with the kit here is a more detailed list: the car: 180$ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DSVF3BY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details the battery and charger: 52$ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QRQPSF8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details - yes its a nimh. metal ball bearing kit: 5$ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003508639967.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.44.21ef1802Wl2nZf metal drive shaft: 7$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803425336193.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.39.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US metal motor mount: 4$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803091385160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.33.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US 19T pinion: 2$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802686602052.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.27.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US transmitter/reciever (w. gyro): 30$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804602560812.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US foam wheel cover: 1.5$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803716864776.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.21.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US 6KG servo: 11$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802817927490.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US metal servo horn: 2$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832573460693.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US Grand Total: just about 300 USD which is something I could commit to in order to see if this hobby can re-grow on me... of course I can explain my rational for each of the items, but mostly, they simply fit my needs at this point in time... NOTE that the items are on their way, so nothing was delivered at this point and I cannot vouch for their quality... if you made it till here - then this post was of interest to you thanks for reading. [update] forgot about the tamiya white & metalic blue paint jars I also purchased for 5$ each - yes I am going to paint using a brush (with my kids)
  13. Rare unassembled Tamiya 1/12 Lamborghini Countach LP500s competition special for sale. NIB, all bags are closed. This one is the competition special edition with larger 540 motor for a 1/12 scale model. Released in 1978. A true rarity for the passionate collector. Please do not hesitate to contact me for additional questions or more pictures. I'm happy to help! Price: 1 300 euros + delivery
  14. Just wanted to share my second tamiya beetle build. Seriously cought a bad case of the bug because I just love these cars and love turning them into street beelte buggies 🖤❤️🖤❤️
  15. I just love these beetle cars and love to turn them into street beetles. Here is the video if you are interested in it.
  16. Im a huge tyco collector but fell in love with the beetle so this is my first tamiya build and won't be my last this is addictive! Thanks for the add! https://youtu.be/lo7XaeBpOcc
  17. Vintage Tamiya Martini Alfa Romeo 155 V6 TI 4WD Nr. 5818 - for sale on eBay. Last of my models .Bought & built ca. 1997/8 and never run in anger. Sold in 2014 to a non-payer, so it stayed with me, but now it has to go. The ad is in German, but basically says: Immaculate. Never run. Displayed for last 25 years or so. Original box, spare decals, screws, cogs etc., instruction leaflet and original documents in excellent condition, original 3-step fwd/rev speed control unused - fitted with C.P.R. P-80F and Servo, Tamiya 1400NP Racing Pack 7,2v 1400mAh NiCd (not charged for donkey's years - has about 2volts residual charge. Any questions - just ask. Thanks for looking and I hope this finds a new home with someone who will cherish it as much as I have for so long!
  18. Recently started a new build. A Tamiya Fiat 1000 Abarth TCR Berlina Coursa ... to give this RC her full name. All the " bling" bits arrived across the period of a month, and now ready to go in . The M-05 hop-ups from the company Venom are new to me , and I found out while assembling them into the chassis that there are NO instructions on how to build them . But that's a story for later on.
  19. If you know my collection you will know that I like Tamiya Nitro. Maybe an understatement with approx 250 Tamiya but what I love is the restoration challenge. During lockdown I decided to get a runner of all the major Tamiya off road nitro kits and the TGM-04 TNX 5.2r is the last one I need. With the TGM kits that I dont run this will be the 14th of these monsters to join my collection. Now, it would be fair to say that I also like a challenge! I find it really hard to look away from Tamiya nitro kits that are down on their luck....and this one really is. It's clear that the kit was used, probably abused and then sidelined for time to take its toll. So a little about the kit itself first. The TGM-04 chassis TNX 5.2r first hit the streets in Dec 2006 as kit number 43530. The last in a line of Monster truck iterations that would carry the TGM chassis designation it basically took all the Proline developed hop-ups from the TNX 3.0 and rolled them into one. Tamiya fitted the Force .32 engine badged as the FR-32FX and added the usual body, wheels and radio gear. These make great trucks but they really didn't get any further development and as we all known brushless power soon started to overtake. Tamiya released one extra kit with some bling in the 49460 Champagne Gold Version ( restored one here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/88767-49460-tamiya-tnx-52r-champagne-gold-restoration/& ) and then the Nitrage came along. Since then nothing. Now, the one that I will be restoring popped up on Ebay and went on the watch list. First impressions aren't too bad are they! Wrong body, dirty, a little scruffy etc. But my oh my things get worse... Tyres are all dry rotted Steering parts are all rusty Underside is the same Engine is a bit rusty! and lastly a full chassis shot. As ever...the plan will be too restore as much as possible and make this into a runner.......Stay tuned she is on the way to my house and I paid £63.
  20. for sale only. everything is new and never used. Tamiya 1:10 JTCC HKS Opel Vectra body shell with stickers, masking, spoiler/side mirrors and instructions. Tamiya 5-spoke wheels (white) +0mm offset. Tamiya slick tires with foam inserts. price is 80€ + shipment. pictures:
  21. Grastens Builds the: A memorable build of great personal significance begins! Overview (aka Grastens' Understanding of the Buggy Champ and its Predecessors) The Tamiya Buggy Champ was released in 2009, as a re-issue of the original Rough Rider that first appeared in 1979. Along with the Sand Scorcher, it played a role in the popularization of off-road RC buggy racing. The chassis featured full cast-metal independent suspension, which emulated the Volkswagen Beetles that was the basis for many dune buggies of the time. As such, the performance was also quite similar to the full-size subject, which at the time represented an improvement over the current state of off-road RC buggies. The Rough Rider in particular was based on the Bob Maynard Racing Funco SSII, and was set to become a properly-licenced version of his bright-orange racer. However, the deal fell through during the prototype stage, and as a result, the name was changed to “Rob Mitchell Racing” (Tamiyabase has some more information on this for further reading). If nothing else, this footnote reaffirms Tamiya’s attention to authenticity in those early days of their RC venture. The suspension was not the only factor influencing its scale performance: the use of a water-resistant mechanism box to protect the electrical components from moisture damage also allowed the buggy to tackle the elements. This opened up new possibilities for running, which contributed to the chassis’ popularity among more casual enthusiasts. The bodywork did require some deviation from the original Funco buggies to fit the mechanism box, but for all intents and purposes the Rough Rider was an authentic dune buggy at 1:10 scale – and a fraction of the price! The combination of scale aesthetics and performance was befitting the “Model Suitable for Radio Control” philosophy that Tamiya’s nascent RC department sought to embrace. With pronounced positive rear camber and no rear differential, the Rough Rider was really best suited for sandy beaches and dunes – again, like the real thing. As mentioned, the chassis was also used for the Sand Scorcher, which took the Beetle theme even further by introducing a modified Volkswagen-style shell over the original platform. Later, Tamiya would use the chassis underneath a Ford F-150 Ranger body as its own release. In response to the growing number of racers using these buggies, Tamiya would eventually develop the chassis further for the Super Champ (now around today as the Fighting Buggy). The chassis became known as the SRB (Special Racing Buggy), and for all its innovation, there were plenty of improvements that could be made to increase its performance. It has been written that the Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher may have created the “cottage industry” of aftermarket parts (think Team CRP, MIP, Thorp, etc.) as enterprising builders and racers sought to gain the edge on the track. Popular upgrades included items such as lightweight suspension arms, alloy chassis plates, parts to replace the mechanism box with a lighter solution (addressed later with the Super Champ), and an ever-increasing variety of wheel and tire combinations. The legacy of the Rough Rider (and Sand Scorcher) may be similar to that of the later Grasshopper and Hornet, which also brought off-road RC cars to a wider audience. As buggy design evolved into something quite different in the name of outright performance, the scale appearance and driving characteristics of the SRBs remain part of a past era, though revived in other genres such as trail driving! Grastens and the Buggy Champ I bought my Buggy Champ at the local hobby shop (back then, Advance Hobbies near Toronto, Ontario) for what was probably $350. I had been in the hobby for about one year, having started with another Tamiya: the Toyota GT-One on the F103RS. I enjoyed it immensely, and a whetted appetite was now eager to try off-road buggies. At the time, I had little clue as to what the Buggy Champ represented. I found myself living the experience of a Rough Rider enthusiast: once marvelling at its performance off-road, I sought to improve its overall handling by introducing new parts. The modifications I remember the most were the alloy chassis plate, the ball differential, and a succession of coil-spring dampers that replaced the leak-prone originals. I had even considered the RC Channel double-wishbone upgrade for the rear suspension, if only because I found the positive rear camber made handling tricky, and the wear on the outsides of the tires was not looking good… Life intervened, as it usually does, and for a period, the Buggy Champ sat along with my other cars on the shelf. Over time, it was joined by others, and as the on-off relationship with the hobby continued, the car saw less and less action – I would be too engrossed with other projects, like the Lancia Rally that I had taken on and with which I began my love affair with RC rally cars. Unfortunately, life then saw me sell the Buggy Champ (along with the shell for said Lancia Rally) when I needed the funds for a trip. I sold the car to another member on TamiyaClub, who, like me, had been looking for a fun and reliable runner. Perhaps it is best that I have since forgotten this member’s name (and I believe this member no longer frequents the forums), for it broke my heart to learn that this member decided it was not to his taste and sat it on the shelf. I had given him a bargain for it, too… It was at that moment that I came to realize my mistake, though it would take some more time to regret it (after all, it was a good trip!). The Intervening Years Over time, while moving a well-loved car for pocket change to someone who did not appreciate it still hurt, I could also understand that the Buggy Champ was a car best suited for a specific set of conditions. As I grew up and settled down, I would continue to waver between full and zero commitment to the hobby. I struggled with unemployment for an embarrassing amount of time, which definitely affected my ability to continue with my RC cars. Even when I did find full-time work, a diagnosis of clinical depression and the resulting medical struggles changed my life and threw it into turmoil… … And as if in the eye of a storm, I calmly picked up my RC cars again. This time, having finally moved in with my partner and being otherwise completely independent, I found I could focus more time, energy, and (most importantly) money on the hobby that I knew I still loved. The acquisition of a Tamiya Hotshot (courtesy of said partner!) rekindled my interest, and a succession of builds signalled my return to radio-controlled cars. And then: well, where I now live, there is a beach less than an hour’s drive away… Could I really be thinking…? Even with all of the other off-road buggies I have now? A Second Chance Everything pointed me towards another Buggy Champ. Remembering how much I have come to miss my first one, I made the decision to find one – and this time, not let go! Unfortunately, like pretty much everything, the Buggy Champs that were once plentiful online and beyond (namely, the ‘Metallic Editions’ in silver and gold) were now going for way more than I recalled. I had to remember that it had been several years since I last seriously sought one out, but this seemed ridiculous; the majority of them were asking $700 and beyond. The advent of coronavirus inspired me to turn ‘local,’ which is to say to the local online classified ads. There, I found a seller who had a new-in-sealed-box Buggy Champ for well under what everyone else wanted for theirs, out of Toronto. It was even somewhat near where I grew up… I wanted it, but my bank account did not! I made a deal to put down a deposit on it, following which I would come up with the rest of the money in two weeks’ time. I had it all paid for by the next week, and while perhaps I could have negotiated a better price, I felt grateful to have found a brand-new one in the country that did not cost me half a month’s pay! The other nice thing about buying within the country is that shipping is commensurately fast. By the following week, I had it in my hands! When I opened it up and set out the shrink-wrapped box, I just stood there, staring at it: while I may never find my original Buggy Champ again, I have been given another chance to experience it. With the experience I had accumulated with other models in that time, I would appreciate it more than I ever could have back then, and now know better than to part with this one – would you believe I embraced the box and told it I would never let go? I was unaware of the full extent of my emotions until the day it arrived. Maybe it will become a nice memory of mine in this hobby. The Kit Many of you have seen a Buggy Champ before, but for the Gamilans, Betelgeusians, generally-uninformed, and nostalgic types like me out there, I have some photos: Would you also believe I found the box smaller than I remembered? The beauty of a new-in-box example is that I can relive the build, too! That blister packaging brought back so many happy memories: Beneath the blister pack with the tires, there is a special box, decorated with photos of the Buggy Champ in action. The contents of that box: Essentially, it contains all the hardware and most of the main chassis pieces. Under the blister pack with the cast-metal suspension parts, we have the grey three-piece wheels. Sitting in the centre compartment in bags were the bodyshell, the rear bumper, body parts, mechanism box, and the kit-supplied ESC: At the very bottom are those famous box-art decals: And thus, the kit! It will go together in a manner unlike many modern offerings, which I look forward to! The Build The Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher were popular in their day, and the Buggy Champ and re-released Sand Scorcher also enjoyed a following. However, in over a decade since they were re-released, the supply of non-LiPo batteries compatible with the kit’s mechanism box had seemingly gone from small to infinitesimal… There are still several offset-hump Ni-MH batteries available in Europe, and I found myself importing three of them from the U.K. specifically for this model. With the first one, I had the local hobby shop (again, Advance Hobbies) produce some for me from two standard stick packs I supplied. Far away from them or any other suitable hobby shop this time, I went overseas. My experience with the first one showed me that I could not make good use of a ball differential in the back, but that the alloy chassis I had purchased was definitely useful. I found one online, and decided to pair that with a smaller metal bumper for this kit. The electronics I will be using: Pictured are an aftermarket Spektrum-compatible receiver, an old HPI SF-10W servo, an Axial RC LED module that will allow me to fit lights, and a Tamiya TBLE-02S ESC. The last-named is of great confusion to me. I clearly recall my first Buggy Champ being issued with the TEU-101BK, and thought that the original re-issue’s run (excluding Metallic Editions) predated the TBLE-02S completely. There is a thread on TamiyaClub stating that kits are not shrink-wrapped at the factory, so I have no illusions about that. However, is this really as the kit had arrived? While I was at it, I purchased some Sand Scorcher body accessories: The plan had been to use the exhaust pipe from this set on the back of the chassis, though it looks like the Buggy Champ was not issued one for good reason: it is likely not to fit with the shell on the chassis… The build will therefore make use of an aftermarket front bumper and metal chassis plate, but will otherwise be mechanically-stock. LEDs will be equipped using a leftover sprue full of light buckets and lenses from my Comical Avante build, which was a suggestion from Tamiya’s release of the sprue as its own hop-up part. At this juncture, I intend to use the kit-supplied decals, but will not use the suggested TS-12 Orange for the paint. For body colour, I actually have a few options that do not require more purchases: on hand, I have cans of TS-43 Racing Green (the colour I used for my first Buggy Champ, I think), TS-35 Park Green, TS-15 Blue, and TS-8 Italian Red. I even have enough TS-26 Pure White and TS-7 Racing White if I feel so inclined, but at present, I do not. The Racing Green would evoke my first buggy, though the possibilities of the other colours I have are compelling – a decision I am happy to mull over while I build the chassis. The rare revisit of a memory is the subject of this build thread. Onward!
  22. One thing I simply can't do when browsing Ebay is overlook Tamiya Nitro that is down on its luck! Over the Christmas period I had been reviewing Ebay more than once a day as I know that loft and attic finds appear at this time of year. Up popped this TR-15t on Ebay and it instantly went on the watch list. Roll on to the last few seconds of the auction and it was mine for £132. Three days later it was delivered to my house. Now the TR-15t was first released in 1993 making this one nearly 29 years old. Kit number 44001 was Tamiya's first nitro, first nitro engine (FS-15) and a foray into something other than electric power. Nowadays a real collectors piece and good ones change hands for around £450. So what did £132 buy me? Today I inspected the car and it;s probably 99% complete. The only things missing from the kit are the servo mounts and when fitted the servos. Thats a really good starting point. The body has held up well and apart from a good clean, another clean and then another clean coupled with some new decals it should scrub up well. The chassis is a little dirty! The tyres are all perished Underside isnt too bad The FS-15 engine is seized. No surprise looking at it but in my experience its unlikely it is locked due to damage. it will be old fuel. The plan will be to strip, clean and rebuild the old girl and assess compression etc. The recoil starter will be rebuilt and I already produce and sell new labels for these. Overall a dirty but dooable (is that a word) project So the plan is simple. Get her stripped down into metal and plastic. Get everything through the ultrasonic and then start assessing each part for the bin, restoration or replacement. The chassis plate will be replaced for a new red (pink) original hop up set. Everything else we shall see as we go!! Wish me luck
  23. Hey guys, sorry it took so long but all of my parts finally came in for the Hotshot build! Shipping things to Canada takes forever sometimes. I'm going to start on the build before the New Year but I'll be in Alabama for work for a few weeks after that so updates will be a bit delayed! So I've got an original YOU-G bumper and aluminum wing, Pro Line rims that I painted white with Prime and Shadow 4WD slicks, MIP ball bearing differentials, a Futaba high torque metal gear servo, a special edition Copperhead 10 ESC, a HobbyStar 540 V3 10.5T SPEC motor, a Futaba 3PRKA transmitter and receiver combo, a Fast Eddy ball bearing kit and finally a Hotshot Dart body by TBG. Let me know if you have any suggestions for other hop ups! Thanks guys and wish me luck
  24. Hey guys, new to the forum and somewhat new to the world of Tamiya. I restored some Tamiya cars with my dad that he had kept from the 80's when I was younger but now I've gotten into the hobby myself! I picked up a re release Frog and a re release Hotshot, the Frog is almost done and now I'm just waiting for my parts to come in for the Hotshot. Just curious if there is any interest in a build thread and some running videos when it's done? Also looking for some good hop up suggestions for the build! I'll post some pictures of what I've ordered so far, don't be afraid to tell me if I've wasted my money as I want to be sure everything I've gotten will work. So far I've ordered a cheap Futaba transmitter/ receiver and a Futaba high torque metal gear servo to keep it kind of authentic. A HobbyStar 10.5t 540 brushless motor, a Castle Copperhead 10 ESC, the MIP Super Ball Differentials, the Fast Eddy's Hotshot ball bearing kit and to top it off a reproduction of the Dart body and wing. I am also be running the Venom 7.4V 4000mAh 20C 2S DRIVE batteries which fit quite nicely after a few spacers. Will I need a different sized pinion or anything? Thank you in advance!
  25. Hi guys, its been over 25 years that i made my last Tamiya kit ( yes im getting old! ) As i watch a lot of random youtube clips i stumpled on the clip from Tamiya Legends on his Cobalt Green GT2, and after that i knew i needed to do something similair., the pics of the KUHFARBEN ones and the topic of GermanTA03GUY didnt do any good either i just needed to have a go at this myself after all of those years.. IMHO 993 GT2 is one of the sexiest models Tamiya has ever made.. I started looking around for a complete Tamiya Porsche GT2 kit or body... complete was not easy and i found a unpainted gt2 body from Tamiya from a guy from Germany, bought it.. but still havent recieved it as its M.I.A ( big thx for the fkcup @ DHL ) In the mean time i had bought a Pandora chassis display as i dont have the intention on driving it anyways , just fiddling around with it, painting it... doing some mods on it.. etc... Bought some DS racing DE 5 spoke wheels with the adjustable offsets in gumetal... as i was and still am waiting for the body to show up.. i kept on buying some stuff like.. tamiya cockpit.. styrene stuff for the rollcage, 3dwrapup for the lights, tamiya light kit etc etc etc.. But still no body.... so bought from the same guy a NIB TA02SW GT2 complete kit... asked him to send this one with another shippingcompany and while im still waiting on that to arrive uhmm i literally just bought another NIB complete GT2 kit.. Ordered some different wheels for that one... paint , mods , parts etc all is on its way and ill make a build topic on this here.. Ill start this one of with just 2 simple pics of the pandora display chassis, very simple concept.. will take any 1/10 body, you can change width, length, wheelbase etc etc... quickly mounted my first set of DS Racing gunmetal wheels. A lot more to come very soon!!!! and while it wont be anything new ill try to document this bodybuild for the people who are interested, The GT2 will be a hybrid RWB / trackday kinda style GT2.... For now im just waiting on parts Cya soon!!
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