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Showing results for tags 'Tamiya'.
Found 276 results
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Since the Tamiya 48mm swing shafts, steel or aluminum, seem to be extremely rare, I started to look for 48mm swing shafts of other manufacturers. What do you think about these MST ones? Will they fit the Tamiya universal axles 51445?
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Guys, girls - I am in trouble. Big trouble. 😑 I always remembered the Clod Buster as the cool car from the older, cooler neighborhood boy across the street. I was around six years old, he was around 12 years old. He had the Clod, I had the Grasshopper II (no regrets). Good times! I was never the lucky guy who owned a Clod. In fact and to be honest: I always saw it as a relict from the past – with all honesty, of course, it's a legend – but I never wanted one – Pogo sticks, plastic everywhere, the fancy, but troublesome steering. No, not for me… After I found my love for the Monster Beetle (for the Black Edition, I have to admit), I stumbled across the Clod Buster Black Edition. Wow… Something happened… I want one… Yes, my inner child wants a Clod! 😳 Great. My wallet is in big trouble, after Sand Scorcher (okay, this was gifted, but it needs additional parts and electronics), the Blitzer Beetle, the Monster Beetle and a TT-01E – all within three weeks. I watched a few a lot YouTube videos and must admit that it’s cool. I counted my Tamiyas and noticed that I have already a collection anyway –nine Tamiyas (some NIB, some Shelf Queens, but they all should be runners some day) should qualify as collection, right? Now I ask myself (and feel free to answer this question for me): Is a collection complete without a Clod? 🤔 Well, to keep things short(er): I am willing to purchase one and I know myself long enough that I will get one some day, wenn the right offer occurs – but in all honesty, I really can stand a few things. I will add bearings as I add them to all cars, no matter what. No Brainer, Check. I will try out the original steering, but add a capable servo (35 kg?) with metal gears and play around with the servo savers and steering horns, as I found some ideas here. My first attempt was to print some servo mounts for the axles, but is in still a Clod Buster then? 🤔 The Pogo sticks. Yes, they are a big part of the Clods legacy, but really, I just can't stand them. I want to add (black) CVAs, but as far as I seen, Tamiya has nothing available for this chassis? In other threads, people recommend 100 mm shocks from Yeah Racing – but maybe there are more, maybe cheaper alternatives? I may add more questions later, but these are the elemental things I have to find solutions for before I even will purchase a kit… just to have a plan in mind. A lot of text, I may come to an end now. 😳 Thanks for reading, thanks for your patience. I also want to apologize for „just another“ Clod thread – but I would be very happy to extend this thread to a build journey some day and share my experiences. Best regards! — Marcel- 83 replies
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Added some hopups to the ORV chassis and the servo arms. I wasn't sure if all pink would work, but for my first time masking and painting a Lexan body, I'm really happy with the results, even though it's not perfect.
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Years ago I bought out a failing hobby shop and these were in one of the boxes I hadn’t opened. Shoot me a price for one, a couple, all of it….. I am located in Bishop, GA 30621, just outside of Athens, GA. If you need more info about any of the products, let me know. All of them are new in package and the full list is below. This site only allows one picture so I have provided a link to all the others below. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qzIFKP85No5WlymXI3eirutZf24btNz5 53467**3800 TL-01 & FF02 Long Span Suspension Arm Set 15160 19mm Aluminum Ball Race Rollers 53500 (OP-500) Cross Joints for Assembly Universal Shaft Set 53218 (OP-218) Touring Car Hard Joint Cup Set (For Gear Diff) 70203**860 Low Current Motor Gearbox (3 Speed) 70103*500 Universal Gearbox 70093**660 3 Speed Crank Axle Gearbox 70121**720 Pulley Unit Set 70097**840 Twin Motor Gearbox 72005**1200 6 Speed Gearbox H.E. (I have 2) 72008**1100 4 speed Worm Gearbox H.E. 72004**980 Worm Gearbox H.E. “High Efficiency” 72001**1500 Planetary Gearbox Set 72002**980 High Speed Gearbox H.E. 70108*1500 Tracked Vehicle Chassis Kit 70170**3800 Remote Control Robot Construction Set (Crawler Type) 70216**8600 3 Channel Radio Control Robot Construction Set (I have 2)
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No problems with the grub / set screw in my youngest son's Grasshopper with a 380 Sport Tuned motor, but the same motor in my older son's Grasshopper 2, We've lost 4 grub screws, eventually destroying a gear in the process. And the grub screw was tightened all the way. I ended up getting Tamiya red thread lock for it and it's been setting for 24 hours, so hopefully on tomorrow's run we have no more issues! -
No problems with the grub / set screw in my youngest son's Grasshopper with a 380 Sport Tuned motor, but the same motor in my older son's Grasshopper 2, We've lost 4 grub screws, eventually destroying a gear in the process. And the grub screw was tightened all the way. I ended up getting Tamiya red thread lock for it and it's been setting for 24 hours, so completely on tomorrow's run we have no more issues!
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My older son's 380 sport tuned motor decided to chuck the pinion gear's grub screw into the gearbox, chewing up the plastic gears and emerging itself into one of the gears. I ordered replacement GH2 gears but received GH2 ones instead. Can I use them in the GH2? Are there any issues I should look for, if so!
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Hello to all your beloved creators, perfectionists and collectors The seller assured me on the telephone (we had 40 min of good talk) that the box would be in perfect order. I recieved this and I would like to know how you would feel when you paid a lot more than when it came out. Of course I paid by Paypal friends as he did not accept anything else. So how much is this worth less now. Even if I will put it in my cupboard for 10 years, I feel and remember that it is not 100% perfect, not even close. I suppose the german seller won't take it back and pay the return fees or will not refund me. If anybody needs to know I can mention what I paid it for. He had 2 of them and now told me his 2nd one had the same deafult and that would be the Tamiya contents pushing on the outside. Is this possible that some, a lot, or even all of these Tamiya kits present such a "damage" like on the pictures 1 big problem and a smaller one on the right side. How would you feel. How many percentage of what you paid would you want in returen or would you send back the whole Tamiya kit and if he will not pay the return fees of 7,69 eur, what then? Thanks a lot. Regards. Nitrocrushy -
Long time lurker, first time poster... I have a question about the rere Frog's grey ORV Chassis. What color paint would match it closest? I'm wanting to paint the base of the driver piece to match the chassis, and hoped to find a close match, if possible, and if anyone here knew it. Thank you in advance.
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for sale only. everything is new and never used. includes: -Tamiya 1:10 JTCC HKS Opel Vectra body shell with stickers, masking, spoiler/side mirrors and instructions. -Tamiya 5-spoke wheels (white) +0mm offset. -Tamiya slick tires with foam inserts. price is 65€ + shipment. pictures of the parts: -
In 1990, after many hours watching promotional videos in Beaties, I bought a Tamiya Terra Scorcher. I used it for many hours in the local streets and fields, and raced it from 1992 til 1994 at a local club. Since then it's mainly sat, broken and worn. The A5 broke quite quickly, and a friend of my dad turned a new one out of a block of aluminium, it was an item of wonder at the local club. I recently came across the Tamiya Legends youtube channel, which motivated me to fix up my Terra Scorcher. I was unaware of the 2020 Re release, and so when I learned of this, my plan has grown. I will purchase the re-release kit, repair my broken Terra Scorcher from this kit (chassis, shock towers, shocks, suspension hangers, knuckle arms, C hubs, all cracked , broken and glued on my original. I will paint the car as my original in a petrol blue colour, and add the luminous yellow wheels I used when I raced it, so that it is restored to the way the car was when I first took it racing at the local club. As for the 2020 kit, I will replace the parts I take with upgradedes, alloy parts and the carbon chassis conversion, with a plan to once again take it racing in a vintage heat in the North East regionals. My plan for this car are: Carbon chassis conversion Alloy A5 / B8 / C hubs / knuckle arms. Carbon fibre fibre lyte shock towers One way unit in the front (not only for handling, but to eleviate the stress on the car from braking on high grip surfaces) Screw kit from RCSCREWZ Gearbox reinforcement sleeves to protect mounting positions HiCap dampers Hingepins and upper arm mounts to be replaced with e-clip style Improved turnbuckles. I intend to try and get this setup to get closer to the other vintage cars, RC10s, CATs, Cougars, Top Forces etc..... though maybe not close to the CAT2000s I anticipate being in that category. I'll post updates, and videos of races, once I get there. Any tips for setting up the Terra Scorcher for racing, much appreciated. Picture here of part built car I intend to race in the vintage class:- 14 replies
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Im new to Tamiya Club so i figured i would document this build and that might be a good introduction. Ill try and keep it intresting. I know the Egress has been built a lot but i have some ideas that maybe some would like to see. If there is interest in this build, ill take it through to the end.
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A few ago I’d had to reluctantly part with my Tamiya collection, all of it, except one or two box wrenches… such were the financial hardships I was experiencing - it really felt like I’d lost my history… gutted. …but like the Madcap slogan went “Don’t Give Up” I didn’t give up during those hardships. to restart my return to the Tamiya hobby I’d really like to source a set of the yellow and black Avante cam lock Wheels if anyone can point me in the right direction, I’d be much obliged. after a very tough few years it’s finally good to be back 😃🙏 (apologies I borrowed a library stock picture of a Avante wheel of a TamiyaClub member)
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Hello, I am not sure if this is the correct place for this post. I used to race Tamiya cars back in the mid 80’s. I have been cleaning out my storage of vintage parts and cars. I am listing them on eBay. New listing very Sunday, until it is all sold. My user name on eBay is Tiki-man. https://www.ebay.com/usr/tiki-man Just wanted to give some collectors a heads up. Cheers J
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Hey everyone! I was looking for a new Low-Profile Servo for an upcoming build. I planned on buying the TSU06. Now I see that it says its not compatible with TEU302BK and TEU105BK. Since I am using a GT Tuned Motor, I was planning to use a TEU105BK ESC, which I have a lots of units lying around here. What is the point here? The ESC has a BEC build in, but does that TSU06 draw so much power? What are my alternative options? Savöx 1251/1252? I doubt they would work. They have basically the same specifications...?! Thanks
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Hi all, So I have 4 unbuilt kits in the loft and an old school Monster beetle with a Acoms ( crystal) transmitter from 1985. What I want to do is to be able to control the new 4 unbuilt kits through 1 transmitter. I assume things are digital these days rather than analog. I need your recommendations as to how to do this and what is the best kit to buy. I’ve heard that this can be done.. just don’t know where to start. I can’t use the wheel style transmitters, so am only after the 2stick type transmitter. Based in the UK and getting back into RC’ing after a 38 yr hiatus!! My unbuilt kits are Wild One ( blockhead), 2011Avante, re re Hotshot and rere Sand Scorcher. I’ve also got the front body pillar that I can swap out and put the racing buggy body onto that chassis too.
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Hello, I am thinking of buying a new motor for my 1:10 scale Tamiya Alpine A110 Jägermeister R/C car, i currently have the stock engine that came with the car, and i am stuck deciding between the Tamiya 540 Sport Tuned Black version and the Tamiya GT Tuned Motor. If anybody can tell me what is better, i would really appreciate it! Thanks -olx
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As some of you know I am collection the 4WD buggies from my youth.From Boomerang to Terra Scorcher. Well at least I was till this popped up locally on GumTree for a good price. Told myself I was buying no more buggies till I had the ones I have finished. You know that lie we tell ourselves and the boss. It came with a box instructions and loads of bits and bobs, in full running order as it was raced. Ok so its not got the right wheels, or tires, the body is BRUSH painted inside and OUT!!!!!!! badly round the decals. BUT it was only £60 and came with Hi Caps and 2 Tamtec cars with it. The Tamtecs are already with a new owner, the wheels, original blue shocks and near bald tires and body are on their way and the money from the Tamtech's paid for for the car and the bits so its basically free.....This hobby pays for its self!!!!!! OH the lies we tell ourselves and our other half's. NO MORE until I have finished all the work on the ones I have. UNTIL that MUST have bargain comes up cause you secretly really fancy a (oh lets be honest anything Tamiya that looks good - **** thats just about most of the back catalogue!!!!!) It started with- I do LOVE the look of the MadCap and the Astute so if they ever came up at the right money.....And a Nissan King CAB, oh and a monster beetle, a lunch box (OK all the monster trucks really) maybe a FROG or a FOX as well BUT only at the right price.......honest!! **** who invented eBay you have a lot to answer for. SO what have you bought cause you found it at the right price rather than went looking specifically for it. Show us how you found it and how it finished up (basher or display) -
I read a review somewhere that mentioned that tamiya has improved plastics on some models. I assume this includes the BBX. Does anyone know of other kits with improved parts? Perhaps the Blockhead Motors line?
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For sale is a Tamiya Opel Calibra V6. Comes with battery, Tamiya Torque Tuned motor and Absima S90MH servo. Built with full ball bearing kit. No transmitter included, but does have a Carson Reflex receiver still installed. Can obviously be replaced by one of your own. Body shell painted and completed with decals. Also complete with original box. Shipping to UK only. £250, with DPD Next Day shipping included, fully tracked. PayPal preferred if possible. Let me know if you are interested!
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Back in 2012, the world was a different place. For starters, I did not have a Tamiya Striker - until late in the year: Apparently, I had a hankering for something very different, and the Striker was unlike many things before or since. The "sharp wind-cheating Formula 1-style body" [- Tamiya promotional video] and the desire to "hit the trail and strike out the competition" [- also the Tamiya promotional video] led me to acquire one. It was put together during my time in post-secondary school, which meant minimal effort to get it going. The only chassis modification I made at the time was adding the Team CRP front chassis brace and bumper set for the Futaba FX-10. Stickers, different tires, and a painted helmet were all I needed to "enjoy" the Striker experience. I ran that car for two years, after which its run time became sporadic (I even half-heartedly listed it for sale in 2016), to be resurrected in 2021. For all that time, the car retained its controversial front swing-axle suspension. Accompanied by a heavily rear-biased weight distribution and pure friction dampers, the understeer was very tangible. Initially, I accepted it as part of driving a Tamiya Striker, but over time, the intrigue of a double-wishbone conversion at the front end lingered. The time finally arrived when I pushed the Striker a bit too hard and broke both front suspension arms: My wallet made the decision for me to finally abandon the stock front suspension setup: not only were front suspension arms scarce, but they were expensive! It was cheaper to attempt modifications than to shell out for NOS parts, and so the trials of customization and testing commenced. The first iteration used Grasshopper II parts: Citing similarities between the Striker and Grasshopper II, I came to learn that about the only front-end components those two models had in common were wheels and tires. I did manage to make it functional, if not entirely useful... And so begins the modification of a humble Tamiya Striker!
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Hi Guys! My Mrs has bought me the bruiser and high lift for my Birthday. While I am currently waiting for the clock to tick and days to pass nearer to my birthday, I have made a list for both chassis for relevant upgrades. The only thing I am unsure about is selecting the right motor? I am trying to stick to Tamiya Motors (Brushed) but open for suggestions Which Tamiya motor would you guys suggest would give me adequate power and torque suitable for the chassis? I will be running 2S Lipos The plan for the Bruiser and High Lift is to turn them into "OK" trail trucks (I know they're aren't the best and that there are better trucks) Here are the motors I have in mind: Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T Motor: 54358 Tamiya TR Torque Tuned 33T Motor: 56526 Tamiya CR Tuned 35T Motor: 54114 Many Thanks! S -
Hi all, I've just completed spraying 6 coats of Tamiya TS (41, coral blue) onto my Lunch Box (see pics below). FYI I waited 24 hours between each coat of paint. I understand that I should now let it "cure" for 7 days before applying stickers and clear coat? My intentions are: after curing, I will apply THESE stickers (Mystery Machine, vinyl) followed by two cans (approx 6 total coats) of TS-80 Clear Flat Spray. My understanding is that I will need plenty of clear-coat to smooth over the edges of these stickers (which are thicker than the stock Lunchbox decals provided by Tamiya). I'm also going for a matte look, which is why I opted for the TS-80, and why I will not be sanding my paintjob prior to spraying on the clear coat. Nonetheless, I'm curious to hear your tips about what to do PRE-clear coat, i.e. I recall someone suggesting washing the paint after curing with dish soap (I suppose to wash off all the paint dust? Up until now I've only used a paper towel and compressed air between each coat). In another thread, someone else wrote: What does "flash out" mean exactly? And how long is too long before the clear coat fails to "adhere chemically" to the paint? And in another thread, this user wrote: Why did this happen? And how to prevent it? Should I be concerned about the TS-80 Clear Flat Spray eating these vinyl stickers? Thanks in advance, I really appreciate everyone's feedback!
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If you know my collection you will know that I like Tamiya Nitro. Maybe an understatement with approx 250 Tamiya but what I love is the restoration challenge. During lockdown I decided to get a runner of all the major Tamiya off road nitro kits and the TGM-04 TNX 5.2r is the last one I need. With the TGM kits that I dont run this will be the 14th of these monsters to join my collection. Now, it would be fair to say that I also like a challenge! I find it really hard to look away from Tamiya nitro kits that are down on their luck....and this one really is. It's clear that the kit was used, probably abused and then sidelined for time to take its toll. So a little about the kit itself first. The TGM-04 chassis TNX 5.2r first hit the streets in Dec 2006 as kit number 43530. The last in a line of Monster truck iterations that would carry the TGM chassis designation it basically took all the Proline developed hop-ups from the TNX 3.0 and rolled them into one. Tamiya fitted the Force .32 engine badged as the FR-32FX and added the usual body, wheels and radio gear. These make great trucks but they really didn't get any further development and as we all known brushless power soon started to overtake. Tamiya released one extra kit with some bling in the 49460 Champagne Gold Version ( restored one here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/88767-49460-tamiya-tnx-52r-champagne-gold-restoration/& ) and then the Nitrage came along. Since then nothing. Now, the one that I will be restoring popped up on Ebay and went on the watch list. First impressions aren't too bad are they! Wrong body, dirty, a little scruffy etc. But my oh my things get worse... Tyres are all dry rotted Steering parts are all rusty Underside is the same Engine is a bit rusty! and lastly a full chassis shot. As ever...the plan will be too restore as much as possible and make this into a runner.......Stay tuned she is on the way to my house and I paid £63. -
Hey guys, I want to upgrade my 15~ years old tamiya manta ray, I've read a lot on the forums and I'm a bit confused, this is the first time I've decided to "open the hood" of the car. Right now I'm running Nimh batteries and I've decided to move to LIPO's. I ordered these parts: -Aluminum motor mount -x2 3S LIPO batt 2300mAh 45C -HobbyWing QuicRun 1060 brushed ESC 60A -53068 Tamiya high speed motor 540 Mabuchi -TA02 high gear set(66T/69T) -Aluminum main drive shaft for TA01/Top Force -Aluminum pitch 0.6 hard coated 25T pinion gear -Ceramic grease and 450 soft damper oil Maybe its too late, but according to what I checked those parts should be compatible to my RC car right? Is the 69T spur gear correct choice? My aim is to upgrade it, but I'm afraid to overstress the car, I just want it to still be reliable, I'm using it seldom times on dirt and roads. Any help would be appreciated , thanks!
