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For sale are parts I had in a box that I dont need anymore, nothing special really but could be of use maybe to somebody. for some parts I cant really identify them I know only from who they are made but not the model of car. Thank you for looking. 1. Tamiya DT01 stock kit dampers 90s - 9€ 2. Tamiya Lunchbox stock kit dampers - 8€ 3. Tamiya Lunchbox stock kit dampers unbuild - sold 4. Tamiya Lunchbox stock kit wheelie bar, little use - 5€ 5. Aluminium Chrome oil Dampers 2x 90mm - 14€ 6. Plastic oil dampers 2x 85mm - 10€ 7. Plastic damper 1x 90mm - 3€ 8. Carson Touring dampers 2x 62mm with original Carson springs - 12€ 9. Tamiya DT02 parts tree (bodymounts etc) - 4€ 10. HPI touring car dampers for parts repair - 5€ 11. Tamiya DF02 servo holder reciever tray and upper arms steering link - 3€ 12. Front bumper mounts Tamiya / Carson 2€ each 13. Drive shafts 61mm 4x good 2x bent - 6€ 14. drive shafts 58mm 2x - 4€ 15. Tamiya TT01 spur 61T 2x - 3€ 16. 72T spur 32P - 3€ thats it for now, will update once I find more. ask for shipping.

Hi all, I’m looking for a brand new copy of Tamiya’s The Complete Works of 1946-2015 Tamiya Military Models - 63631. Thank you

SOLD SOLD SOLD express Tamiya mini pickup, sitting on a Tamiya m05 chassis, this was painted by me and has never been run,only been a shelf queen, as such it would need a receiver and an esc.etc. the chassis is unused. if you want to run it,you would need to raise the body slightly, because of the size of the front wheels they just catch the front wheel arch as they turn. please study the pictures,as what you see is exactly what you will get. im in Romford,Essex and this is collection only, or I may be able to deliver locally . the price is £150.00, please message me if your interested. many thanks.

Like many other people on the forum and as a child of the 70s and 80s, the past year lockdown has brought about a time to reflect and be nostalgic towards better and happier days. And again like so many, having had a more or less 30+ year gap since the last time I dabbled properly in RC (aside from a short foray with a TL-01 and TA04 Pro around the time of the millennium), the lockdown has provided an opportunity to stay home and turn back the clock with some kit building. I was lucky enough to be into RC at the height of the golden age of Tamiya. But like many here, as a child at the time with relatively meagre pocket money, my purchasing power (after much saving) only extended to a Falcon bought from the long since gone chain of UK model shop Beatties . A classic bundle, the kit came with the useless trickle charger that took forever to charge Tamiya 1200 packs, the ubiquitous ACOMS servos / transmitter / receiver and of course the obligatory Beatties black and yellow RC bag that offered little protection to the prized possession in side. But it was wonderful thing! The Falcon fared as well as you’d expect with broken bathtubs, cracked uprights and lost dog bones – all of which I tried to repair with superglue, sticky tape and things that I found in my father’s shed just to keep it on the road. But, between my friends and I, we were able to swap around amongst us Hornets, Grasshoppers, Superchamps and Frogs – all in various states of disrepair. But, as much time as we spent running our cars, we spent even more time flicking thought the pages of Tamiya guidebooks and longing and lusting after unobtainable and unaffordable hop-ups, Bruisers, Avantes, Astutes and much more. So, having fast forward three decades and now having a bit more pocket money to play with so to speak, when the Tamiya nostalgia kick came I decided that I’d try to set myself a challenge. I decided that I wanted to try to buy and build new kits (NIB or Re-re) that I thought best captured the spirit of Tamiya, and to try to fulfil a few unachieved childhood dreams. I initially set a challenge of picking two cars to buy and build that I thought would kill a little bit of downtime in-between work, family and life. But, thanks to the continuing pandemic lockdown and the fact that I’m now sucked in again to RC as I was when a child, I’m now 4 new build cars in and contemplating a 5th. More of that later….. So, after a 35 year lust from watching the grainy Tamiya promo video of a blue truck spinning around the beach - my first purchase was a Bruiser. As most know who’ve owned and built one, it was a very rewarding exercise. A surprisingly complex process – especially getting the body right - I did wonder what state I would have made of the build as a 10 year old kid. I built it as stock – but on completion decided to venture into the world of brushless and lipos (which is a whole new world to me) and took a punt on a 4300kv motor and 80amp ESC. I should say at this point that I had already decided that anything I build should be fully operational – but - would only ever be shelf queens (a new term I was rapidly learning!). I added a lighting kit from Banggood and spent an age painting and finishing to the best I could and I was pretty pleased with the result. It was at this point that I realised again the importance of the box art and livery. There are just some body shells and paint jobs that are timeless icons of RC. I strongly argue that the Bruiser is one of them and this got me thinking. The liveries of some of Tamiya’s cars are so entrenched in the companies ethos and identity that the two things go hand in hand. Adding to my challenge I decided my car selection should also be representative of the idea of iconic livery. So – this in mind, I resolved that my next build would be a Sandscorcher. You may disagree with this, but in my opinion it is indeed truly an icon. The little blue and white VW I believe was pretty instrumental in kicking off Tamiya popularity in the early 80s. I decided that I wanted to build this classic trying to bring in some subtle modern upgrades and interventions but without ruining the charm and spirit of the original. With my new found knowledge of brushless, I binned the silver can and fitted a Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless (….in a Scorcher….. I know….). To make the job neat, I bought the 3d printed brushless motor end cap from ‘Scorched Parts’, along with their inner fenders and servo saver. Like the Bruiser, I fitted a lighting kit and roof rack (inspired by Bob on his Hobby Concepts Youtube channel). I know there are many out there who customise the Scorcher far more than I, but I like the charm and character of the SRB chassis, the leaky shocks and clear plastic inner shell. Similar as the Bruiser, the metal components and design of the Sandscorcher whilst rudimentary, are beautifully engineered. Keeping the theme of “spirit of Tamiya” and “iconic livery”, my next decision was pretty straightforward - The Lunchbox. I won’t lie – a decision partly influenced by my kids who had been showing an interest in my efforts, it seemed a no brainer to get them involved. To me, the lunchbox is the personification of 80’s Tamiya fun. I remember at the time thinking that it was cooler to have the Falcon than the Lunchie, but secretly perhaps realising it wasn’t. I actually bought two kits – one each for my 11 and 8 year old. You’d be unsurprised to know that building two kits at the same time with two young children who have the attention span of a goldfish, is as stressful as you’d imagine. But, despite a few hiccups here and there (a few screws not in straight, omitted bearings etc…..), the classic yellow van turned out great. As did its twin with Scooby Doo livery. I’ve so far managed to keep the box art car as a shelf queen I’m pleased to say, but it might be that I have to build a third one as a runner…. Anyway, inevitably, the elephant in the classic Tamiya car show room had to be addressed. It couldn’t be put off anymore. My justification of the prolongation of lockdown meant that after 32 years of waiting, Santa finally delivered at Christmas an Avante. I don’t actually think there is much to say about it. No introduction or explanation needed. Spirit of Tamiya? Check. Iconic livery? Check. Possibly the car that most perfectly capture what Tamiya is all about? Maybe. In my mind yes, but you may no doubt think differently. But, I just give a knowing wink to the forum and all those of my similar age, or those who have built and / or owned an Avante. Over engineered and over designed like little else Tamiya has ever done before or since, it didn’t disappoint I have to say and will sit as pride and joy for me to look at. So, by now, my budget is blown. Tamiya has me hooked like a school boy once again but I’ve had to draw a line before I head into an RC money pit abyss. Indeed as I write at the beginning of 2021, the new list of cars due to be released by Tamiya has me flicking through the pre-order websites. But, this is the question to you (assuming you’ve got this far in my story….), given my brief of “Spirit of Tamiya” and “Iconic Livery”, and given the 4 cars I’ve bought and built so far – what would your final 5ht selection be? What new kit / re-re would you suggest I buy to complete my story? But indeed, if you had to pick 5 cars in response to my challenge – what would you go for? I very much look forward to hearing your thoughts and wish you happy building.

Other than the rumour of the Novafox being rere’d again in September, do we know what other releases Tamiya had scheduled or rumoured for 2020? I’m don’t know what restrictions were in place where Tamiya kits are manufactured, but it’s safe to assume production will have been halted for a good while With lockdown measures being ease in certain countries, I’m wondering if we'll start to see some more information coming through on rere kits?

Decided to blog my build here instead. Some hardware for the CC01 and internally shim shim shim the axles for slops!

Probably a recursive question, so apologies in advance and thanks for any replay on that topic. Car: Tamiya DT-03 full of hop-up parts, as many that I think buying an Egress would have been cheaper. Use: Occasional, just for fun, a bit of bashing but nothing extreme, just a way to disconnect. motor: Hobbywing xerun Justock 3650 13.5T G2.1 ESC: Currently for brushless only the Tamiya TBL-E02S, but not ready for Lipo's ( I have the alarm thing but I don't like it ) and the classic Tamiya aluminium plugs for the motor don't fit the 3.5mm golden banana males of the motor.. so I should have to cut and replace and I am not whiling to do it and prefer to keep it as it is and use it with NIMH + brushed stuff Battery: Gens Ace 4000Mah 50C Lipo ( tamiya connector ) Soldering skills: Almost none, but watched lots of youtube tutorials, so no skills. Based on all that data, I was thinking of the natural matching companion, the Hobbywing xerun XR10 justock, which is 60A and uses to be sold together as a combo ( I got the motor new from a guy but half the price ) The thing is, this ESC is not particularly expensive, around 60€, but based on my non competition use I was wondering if I could go for something cheaper, maybe also hobbywing? Would other brands work well too? What about Hoobywing clones? This combination seems to be designed to perfectly match together, the esc comes with banana connectors that fit the males in the motor, so no soldering is required apparently, at least esc-motor, and I guess I will have to figure out a way to connect to the tamiya battery. The ESC also claims something I can't understand about TimeZero.. Any suggestions on what should I go for? Thanks!

Hey there, during the Corona-Situation I cleaned up the attic…what I found was my old vintage Tamiya Falcon… It was like staring at a time machine… unfortunately a lot of parts are broken. Now I´m trying to fix the whole thing (just to get the feeling of a happy young boy…😉). It´s been so long...and a lot has change since then. I read about ESC and thought about changing the old speed controller to a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060. What do you guys think? Then I stumbled over Ampro and his engineered 3D improvement parts. That really made my day! Unfortunately one of the dog bones every now and then slips out of the cup. I read about the Thorp Dirt Burners and was on fire right away. Now I´m looking everywhere to get the whole set. I already had the possibility to get the dog bones and the cups, the axles are still missing. Does any of you guys know, where I could get them? I could trade the cups in as I have two sets of cups.... And does anybody know the market price for those (vintage) things? Is there any possibility to use any other axle from another car? Would really appreciate a suggestion... Body shell and decals are the next things on my list. I´m looking forward to hearing from you guys! Thanks in advance and stay safe!

I need to vent for a moment. I've spent way too much time lately looking for 0.8mod pinions for use in Tamiya and Kyosho vintage cars. Seems most manufacturers group 0.8mod with 32p calling them "the same". They are close. Very close in fact, but THEY ARE NOT EXACTLY THE SAME. And when you are talking about mechanical tolerances measured in 0.1mm variances, it makes a difference. You can have PERFECT gear mesh between the pinion and spur, but if they are not the exact same gear pitch, you will have extra noise and extra wear compared to when both gears are the exact same pitch. 32p = 0.7938mod 0.8mod = 31.75p Practically speaking, DOES THIS MATTER? For the most part, no it doesn't. You can use 32p pinions with 0.8mod spurs and not have any trouble. Many, many people will attest to this, including racers that really push their cars. I'm sure there will be replies this post confirming that using 32p with 0.8mod spurs is perfectly fine. But, if you categorize yourself as a perfectionist, anal, or autistic, it will bother you that you are mixing 32p with 0.8mod. It bothers me. I won't say which category I fall into. I wish manufacturers were honest and factual when representing their products. If the pinion is machined as 32p, say so. It if is machined as 0.8mod, say so. Do not say 32p/0.8mod. It is false advertising. The math proves this. It cannot be both at the same time. The machining setup required to grind the gear teeth is different between 32p and 0.8mod. It is one, or the other. From my research it looks like the choices for true 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" shaft motors are few and far between: You can buy the butter-soft Tamiya aluminum stock pinions. Too many to list, but they are cheap at least. But you risk stripping out the spur once the pinion has worn down enough. If you keep track of wear, you can avoid spur damage in most cases. These do not last very long as most of us on this forum know. That's why switching to a steel pinion is one of the most common recommendations to make to someone that asks "I'm about to build ______. What hop-ups should I add to my car?" You can buy the Tamiya steel pinions: Tamiya 54628 Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod Tamiya 54629 Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod But as you can see, there are only 17T and 19T choices. You can buy Kyosho vintage pinions: W-5009 - Hard Pinion 9T 0.8mod W-5010 - Hard Pinion 10T 0.8mod W-5011 - Hard Pinion 11T 0.8mod OT-23 - Aluminum Pinion 12T 0.8mod OT-50 - Aluminum Pinion 13T 0.8mod OT-51 - Aluminum Pinion 14T 0.8mod OT-24 - Aluminum Pinion 15T 0.8mod OT-52 - Aluminum Pinion 16T 0.8mod OT-53 - Aluminum Pinion 17T 0.8mod UM-24 - Aluminum Pinion 19T 0.8mod Since these are vintage, they are usually a bit more expensive and harder to find. And the aluminum ones are butter-soft like Tamiya stock so you don't want them anyway. You can buy the Carson steel pinions: 500013400 - Steel Pinion 10T 0.8mod 500013401 - Steel Pinion 11T 0.8mod 500013403 - Steel Pinion 13T 0.8mod 500013439 - Steel Pinion 14T 0.8mod <--- Yes, part # is correct. 500013404 appears to be some Audi Quattro S1 1/10 scale body. 500013405 - Steel Pinion 15T 0.8mod 500013406 - Steel Pinion 16T 0.8mod 500013407 - Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod 500013408 - Steel Pinion 18T 0.8mod 500013409 - Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod For 5mm motor shafts, Robinson Racing makes some high carbon steel 0.8mod pinions. Their website is broken, so you can't see the part numbers for them and I don't care enough to look it up somewhere else because I don't use 5mm motor shafts. So far I have not been successful in finding any Chinese manufacturers of 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" motor shafts. I've just placed a ridiculous order ($$$) with Tony's Tamiya Parts for Carson 0.8mod pinions because there is literally no other choice, which is rather frustrating. I live in the USA, so Carson is generally not available here except through sellers like Tony's. Thanks for listening to my rant. I feel a little bit better.

Hi Everyone, I know it is a bit of a long shot but has anyone got an Exotek 1245 kit they want to sell (new or used). I contacted Exotek but they said their stock is sold off and the part is discontinued. It comprised of a few parts that bolted to the end of the tub and made the car 8mm longer. Please give me a shout if you or someone you may know has one to sell. Best, Josh

Hello! Thought I’d put a post up for anyone interested. Probably many CC 01’s been built on here, but not seen many Defenders so far? Just as background, this is my first build for almost 30 years!, and first time building a Tamiya RC. I’d build up a few Kyosho RC cars as a kid, including a Raider. I’d also had a Tomy Intruder, which was a really nice RC car and look like they command a fair bit of money nowadays and so wish I’d kept it. As with many people I expect, I fancied something to do during lockdown. I think I’d spotted the Defender kit in a magazine and so fancied something to build and that I could drive pretty much anywhere, as there’s not anywhere near with a large area of tarmac for road based kits. So after a short wait the kit arrived. After unboxing everything, was impressed by the detailed build instructions and the way everything is In labelled bags so you know where to find all the parts. Unfortunately I was to enthusiastic to get on with the build to take too many pictures! The kit was kept standard as I was impressed that you get a set of Oil shocks etc included. Only non standard item was to order a set of ball bearings half way through the build which meant I had to disassemble parts half way through to fit those. finished chassis which when I gave a first test drive was a little puzzled about why reverse didn’t work properly, but then realising that’s how the Tamiya esc is meant to work! First fitting of body shell. The only non standard thing I wanted to do was with the colour. I’d seen a defender online, picture below, and really loved the colour. Apparently it is called ‘Keswick Green’, and as I couldn’t find a close match with polycarbonate paints, I tried to find a match with the Vallejo range of paints which I’d previously used for a model plane I’d built. This meant I’d have to airbrush the paint, and I was also a little concerned that the paint wouldn’t adhere to the shell as it’s water based. After giving the inside of the shell a rub with a very fine paint prep pad and then a wash with detergent and fitting window masks (new to me!), I gave the inside a dusting of paint from my airbrush. After several coats of green, and a finishing coat of grey Vallejo primer, the shell was finished. Not an exact match to the Keswick green, but happy enough with the colour. The paint also hardened off nicely and seems pretty abrasion resistant. And finished (nearly), after nearly a whole day fitting stickers (love the detail and quality of the Tamiya stickers) which luckily I enjoy fitting! Did spend a while making up extra LEDs from eBay to fit, but ultimately I think I’d just have stuck to the ones that come with the kit now. Also decided to add an eBay special lightbar. Wasn’t expecting it to be that bright but was surprised how effective it is! Had also ordered a RC controlled switch harness, but unfortunately the output is lower than from the Receiver and so dulls the light output. Close up of custom Ali brackets to fit the bar as the originals were a bit large. It’s been great fun to drive so far. Surprising how well it handles most stuff, and is actually pretty quick! Perhaps a bit hard to control at low speeds and so hard to control over rough terrain. Think I will keep standard for now. Had thought of converting to Lipo, but the run time of the Nimh packs seems a lot better nowadays? Perhaps a brushless motor for the future? Now have a taste for RC Cars again, so new project soon..

Hey TC Members! How are we all doing today, during these unprecedented times? So, I've wanted the Tamiya High lift since its release but couldn't afford it at the time. But finally bit the gun and bought myself the High lift and awaiting its delivery! I have been doing quite a fair amount of research on the chassis, to try and build the "ultimate" high lift spec (on a budget - if possible). I know its not a very capable trail truck, especially with its standard transmission placement (getting caught because of low ground clearance, etc) but this is where the upgrades come in to improve this truck! Also, I will be ditching the stupid 4-wheel steering setup on the chassis, not needed at all as its not a monster truck and looks ridiculous. (don't know why Tamiya thought it would be a good idea) What would your top upgrades be, that you would suggest? (I am aware of the JunFac 4-Link suspension link upgrade for the High Lift, but I would prefer to stick with leaf springs due to more scale look and personally I'm not a fan of the 4-link suspension on the high lift - just doesn't suit it in my opinion) Whilst I am still waiting for the delivery man/woman, I have been busy making a pre build upgrade list for the chassis (listed below) BODY Shell: Undecided between F350 / Tundra or Something else that fits the standard wheelbase ELECTRONICS ESC: Quicrun 1080 Motor: Tamiya TR Torque Tuned 33T (For scale speed and although motor was intended for 1/14 Trucks, the motor was built for specifically Tamiya 3-Speed Transmission) Servo (Steering): Hi-Toque Waterproof Metal Geared (Not sure which yet?) Servo (Gearing): N/A - Will be locking the Transmission to all time 4x4 Low Pinion: Steel (Standard Metrics) WHEELS Rims: Standard Tires: Undecided (Looking for something a little larger that fits on standard rims?) Foams: Stiffer foam for the rear UPGRADES GMADE TS01 90mm Alloy Scale Shocks (Shocks do not require oil but will test) - Mounted upside-down Shock Oil: Front - 200 to 300CST (Piston 4-hole) Shock Oil: Rear - 300 to 400CST (Piston 3-hole) Leaf Springs: Either removal of 2 leaf springs or upgraded to RC4WD red super soft AMPRO High Lift Front Motor Kit AMPRO High Lift Transmission Lift AMPRO High Lift Central Battery Kit AMPRO High Lift Battery Retainer AMPRO High Lift Spring Perch Gmade/JunFac 1 Piece Heavy Duty Steering Knuckle Arms Gmade/JunFac 1 Piece Heavy Duty Straight Axle Adaptor Gmade/JunFac Hard Carbon Steel Universal Shafts Gmade/JunFac Front Servo Steering kit (My concern would this interfere with the AMPRO Front Motor kit??)

Hi guys, I wonder if someone has already set anti-roll bars on Stadium Blitzer. I just bought a DT-03 stabilizer set (54561 / OP-1561). If anybody has information about that, it will appreciated. Thanks ! Take care. Glob356

Can anyone help me identify this car we found in the loft. I have installed an ESC and new battery and it works fine, but I need to get a few parts for it. Knowing what model it is would be a great help. Thanks in advance Andrew

Hi all, Im after some windows for the Montero/Pajero wheelies, preferably new but good 2nd hand Acceptable. Cash waiting and UK based, what have you got?. Cheers. Ronnie.

Hi am selling my Tamiya TNX 5.2r On eBay if someone would like to join for a biding I’m going to leave a link if someone is interested. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383553557818

Well I got nostalgic about RCing so I decided to get my first Tamiya kit. I chose the landfreeder matte black edition because it looked cool to me and the body already came painted. Build was a lot of fun and it's stock except for a bearing kit and a power hd lw-20mg servo. So today I took it out for its first run! I was really surprised how fast it ran and how long. After 2 hours the 5Ah NiMH was still going strong. Here's a before and after: The only thing I wish it had was a back bumper to protect the body.

Hi TC Members, Its just came to my attention that there hasn't been a thread created regarding Tamiya Brushed Motors, regarding what some of these motors are designed / best suited for, etc. As a complete RC novice and getting back into this wonderful hobby, I feel like this information could become beneftial for all and make motor choices a little bit easier by knowing more about these motors and what they were intended for or specifically used for, etc. If some of you guys can contribute in the comments I will update the OP with the added info, also if I have missed any motors please let me know. So here we go! 370 SIZED ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Torque Tuned 370 (54919) Turns: ? Torque: ? RPM: 18,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 2019 Chassis designed for: SW-01 / T3-01 Intended / Best use for: A high performance motor designed for enhancing acceleration (Perfect for low speed tracks) On / Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Sport Tuned 370 (54860) Turns: ? Torque: 50g/cm RPM: 22,200 Timing: Fixed Year: 2019 Chassis designed for: SW-01 / T3-01 Intended / Best use for: A high performance motor designed for enhancing speed (Perfect for high speed tracks) On / Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 380 SIZED ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Sport Tuned Type 380 (54393) Turns: 29 Torque: 129g/cm RPM: 24,900 Timing: Fixed Year: 2012 Chassis designed for: 380 Sized Chassis ie; Grasshopper / Holiday Buggy, etc. Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for enhancing speed (Perfect for high speed tracks) On / Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 540 SIZED ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Mabuchi RS-540 (50023) Turns: 27T Torque: 200g/cm RPM: 12,500 Timing: Fixed Year: 1977 Intended / best use for: Standard Mabuchi RS-540 Motor (Kit Supplied) Suitable for all On & Off Road Applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Mabuchi 540-J Johnson Motor (53689) Turns: 27T Torque: 255g/cm RPM: 14,500 Timing: Fixed Year: 2003 Intended / best use for: Updated standard 540 Motor manufactured by Johnsons, with better torque & RPM. Suitable for all On & Off Road Applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Transpeed MS Motor 9T (49347) Turns: 9T Torque: ? RPM: ? Timing: Adjustable Year: 2004 Intended / Best used for: A high performance competition motor designed for high level competitive racing (On & Off Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Transpeed MS Motor 10T (49386) Turns: 10T Torque: ? RPM: ? Timing: Adjustable Year: 2006 Intended / best use for: A high performance competition motor designed for high level competitive racing (On & Off Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Super Modified 11T (53485) Turns: 11T Torque: 250g/cm RPM: 38,000 Timing: Adjustable Year: 2001 Intended / best use for: A high performance competition motor designed for use with Touring Cars (On Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya ACTO -Power TRF Tuned (49567) Turns: 12T Torque: 480g/cm RPM: 32,400 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1993 Intended / best use for: A high performance competition motor designed for use with Touring Cars (On Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Dyna-Run Super Touring (53263) Turns: 13T Torque: 390g/cm RPM: 33,200 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1996 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for Touring Car Races (On Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Dynatech 02H (53044) Turns: 13T Torque: 413g/cm RPM: 28,900 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1989 Intended / best use for: A high performance competition motor designed for Off-Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya ACTO-Power "PINK" Off Road 2WD Motor (53122) Turns: 14T Torque: 450g/cm RPM: 30,000 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1992 Intended / best use for: A high performance competition motor designed for Off Road 2wd applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya ACTO-Power Touring Special Motor (53153) Turns: 15T Torque: 440g/cm RPM: 29,300 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1993 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for 4WD On / Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Dyna-Run Racing Stock Motor (53272) Turns: 17T Torque: 350g/cm RPM: 23,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 1996 Intended / best use for: A high eco performance motor designed for On Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya ACTO-Power Formula Motor (53154) Turns: 17T Torque: 400g/cm RPM: 25,500 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1993 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for Formula 1 / Pan Car Racing (On Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Dynatech 01R (53001) Turns: 19T Torque: 300g/cm RPM: 25,000 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1988 Intended / best use for: A high performance competition motor designed for (On / Off Road) Racing applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Technigold RX-540VZ (50290) Turns: 21T Torque: 430g/cm RPM: 19,000 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1986 Intended / best use for: A high performance competition motor designed for (On / Off Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya ACTO-Tuned M Special (53251) Turns: 22T Torque: 200g/cm RPM: 19,000 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1995 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for M chassis models, made shorter to compensate for off-centre COG created by standard length 540 motors ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Black Sprint RS-540SD (50189) Turns: 23T Torque: 200g/cm RPM: 16,300 Timing: Fixed Year: 1983 Intended / best used for: A high performance motor designed for Pan car class (possible use in Formula class too) On Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Super Stock BZ (53930) Turns: 23T Torque: 500g/cm RPM: 26,500 Timing: Fixed Year: 2006 Intended / best used for: A high performance motor designed for Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Super Stock Type-R (53476) Turns: 23T Torque: 225g/cm RPM: 28,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 2001 Intended / Best use for: A high performance motor designed for (Sprint) On Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Super Stock Type-T (53477) Turns: 23T Torque: 230g/cm RPM: 27,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 2001 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for (Endurance) On Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Technipower RX-540SD (50225) Turns: 23T Torque: 315g/cm RPM: 20,300 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1984 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for 8min Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Super Stock Type S (49247) Turns: 23T Torque: 230g/cm RPM: 27,500 Timing: Fixed Year: 2002 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor built with components from Type-T & Type-R motors to create a more versatile motor for On Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Super Stock Type RR (49260) Turns: 23T Torque: 225g/cm RPM: 28,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 2002 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for (Sprint) On Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Super Stock TZ (53696) Turns: 23T Torque: 500g/cm RPM: 26,500 Timing: Fixed Year: 2004 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for (Endurance Races / Low Speed Tracks) On Road Applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Super Stock RZ (53697) Turns: 23T Torque: 500g/cm RPM: 27,500 Timing: Fixed Year: 2004 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for (Sprint / High Speed Tracks) On Road Applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Sport Tuned RS540 Turns: 23T Torque: 350g/cm RPM: 18,300 Timing: Fixed Year: 1990 Intended / best use for: An Eco-Performance motor designed for both On / Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya UGT Tuned (54391) Turns: 24T Torque: 500g/cm RPM: 19,400 Timing: Fixed Year: 2012 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for On / Off Road applications (UGT Tuned is updated GT Tuned motor) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya GT Tuned (53779) Turns: 25T Torque: 500g/cm RPM: 19,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 2005 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for On / Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Torque Tuned RS-540 (54358) Turns: 25T Torque: 305g/cm RPM: 16,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 2012 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for enhancing acceleration (Perfect for low speed tracks) On / Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya TechniTuned RX-540SD (50230) Turns: 27T Torque: 290g/cm RPM: 17,200 Timing: Adjustable Year: 1985 Intended / best use for: A high performance competition motor designed for Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Dirt Tuned (53929) Turns: 27T Torque: 380g/cm RPM: 17,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 2006 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for Off Road applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Lightly Tuned (53983) Turns: 28T Torque: 565g/cm RPM: 16,300 Timing: Fixed Year: 2007 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for M chassis (On Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya FL-Tuned Motor (54392) Turns: 30T Torque: 450g/cm RPM: 15,200 Timing: Fixed Year: 2012 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for M chassis (On Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya Formula Tuned (54176) Turns: 32T Torque: 400g/cm RPM: 14,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 2009 Intended / best use for: A high performance motor designed for Formula / Pan racing (On Road) applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya TR Torque Tuned (56526) Turns: 33T Torque: 400g/cm RPM: 12,500 Timing: Fixed Year: 2013 Intended / best use for: A high performance, slow turn, high torque motor designed for precise speed control. Best used with 3 speed gearboxes, trucks & tractors applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya TR Mighty Tuned (17435116) Turns: 35T Torque: ? RPM: ? Timing: Fixed Year: 2018 Intended / best use for: A high performance, slow turn, high torque motor designed for precise speed control. Best used with 3 speed gearboxes, trucks & tractors applications ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Motor: Tamiya CR Tuned (54114) Turns: 35T Torque: 375g/cm RPM: 12,000 Timing: Fixed Year: 2008 Intended / best use for: A high performance, slow turn, high torque motor designed for precise speed control. Perfect for Rock Crawling / Trail applications

Hey guys! I am currently looking into rebuilding and modifying my old Fighter Buggy RX for some track use (obviously wont be competitive) and for some general light bashing too but i am too unsure of what tires I should use? (Sticking with standard buggy tire size) The surface would mainly be some pavement, light grass, gravel / dirt. I was looking at the Proline tires Front : Proline 4 Rib M3 Compound Rear : Proline Holeshot M3 Compound Or Schumacher cactus / others. The problem is, the DT01 chassis isnt great.. And I just want slightly better grip tires for her to handle without constantly rolling over from having too much high grip, what do you guys think / recommend? Also, i should point out Im not a fan of the carson tires.. I know they are decent and all terrain but the look is 🤮.

Hello everybody, I'm kind of a newbie to Tamiya and electric R/C, but 2 months ago I bought an M05 Chassis and upgraded it a bit. A couple of days ago I also bought a TT-02SR Chassis and thought it would be fun to equip it with a brushless motor. I already got a Tamiya Speed controller (TBL02S) with the M-chassis which is compatible with brushed and brushless motor. I bought myself the Carson 11.5T Dragster Pro, which is specially designed for the TBL02S (according the details). I attached all the wires as said in the manual, but it is not working. The LED on the speed controller keeps blinking. When I pull out the sensorcable and try again, it gives a short motorsound, and then imidiately turns off. I hope anyone has an idea of what could be going on here? I would appreciate the help!

Hi TC Members, I am looking into picking up the TR Tuned Motor 33T and also the CR Tuned 35T Motor for my Bruiser and Highlift. The question is, are they any good? I would like to stick to Tamiya based brushed motors for building my motor collection. I know the TR tuned is mainly for tractors and lorries, but anyone tried using the motor for their trail trucks? I've had a look on YouTube but found absolutely no running videos / reviews regarding the 2 motors. Do you guys have experience with them, and possibly shed some light? Thanks, S

Hi Guys! HISTORY: So the Tamiya DT01 or more specifically Fighter Buggy RX was my first and only ever Tamiya back in the day (so it holds a lot of sentimental value). My goal is to create the ultimate version of the chassis to make it a little more capable, modern and just generally improve it. THE PLAN: At its current state, my Fighter Buggy RC is bone stock and I plan to improve it with general bolt on parts, some 3D printed ones and also some hand made parts too using a 2.5mm carbon sheet. Here is my plan for the build down to the detail; ELECTRONICS: Servo: Yeah Racing Hackgear Low Profile (YE-0033BU) ESC: Tamiya TBLE02 (45057) or Quicrun 1060 Motor: Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T / Dirt Tuned 27T (what would be better?) Pinion: 17T or 19T ? (What do we think would be best for the selected motor and ESC to not over heat?) HARDWARE: Carbon Fibre 2.5mm plate: For front shock tower support brace & upper chassis with permanent servo mount Set of blue Anodised screws (where possible) Set of blue ball connectors (for shock mounting) Set of blue turnbuckles (for steering linkages & servo link) Alloy threaded link pipe (for rear shock tower support brace) WHEELS: Front Tires: Tamiya Rib-Spike 2WD (54896) Rear Tires: Tamiya Square Spike (53084) UPGRADES: Full set of ball bearings: Metal Sealed Front alloy shocks 75mm blue (using kit springs) 300cst oil Rear alloy shocks 95mm blue (using kit springs) 200cst oil 3D printed double wishbone A arms (Multijet Plastic PA12) 3D printed double wishbone shock tower (Multijet Plastic PA12) 3D printed double wishbone C hubs (Multijet Plastic PA12) Front A Arms: Heatshrink mod Jazzrider alloy uprights / steering arms blue T4 Works Alloy blue motor cover My biggest concerns are the 3D printed parts and the material selected, will it be durable enough? I plan on using the DT01 as a light runner on and off track, anyone with 3D printed experience can verify its durablility? Or add anything to the build that I may have missed? Many Thanks,

Hi, I am currently looking for a custom alloy / carbon chassis for the WR01/WT01 Chassis. I have had one before which I regrettably SOLD with my Wild Dagger Project (I know silly thing to do) Does anyone have one for sale? Or know someone who makes them? Or possibly have a Template to build one myself they could share? (Picture of my old WR01 Project) Many Thanks S

Hello all I am looking to buy the original Tamiya Hornet 5845, only NEW IN BOX. If anyone is interested to sell, kindly contact me personally. Thanks George

Well it has reached the point where I think I am going to be parting with most of my collection. I am based in the US and would prefer to ship to the lower 48 states but if there is something you are willing to pay to ship elsewhere maybe we can work things out. I just dont have the time and space to be hoarding all these cars anymore, and you guys get first pick I take paypal and please message me here on tamiya club feel free to ask for more pictures or info. All prices are with USPS flat rate shipping included. JG MFG yokomo YZ-870 big front bumper, fits what the label says, Free to a good home just pay for shipping AE RC10 team car build. polished kick plate. 1990 roar nats stickers on car and the purple body. $220 Kyosho F1 onroad car parts: tires/foams in great shape some small cracks , top plate and rear pod. Free to a tc member in need, please just pay for shipping. DB01R RTR minus TX (Can remove spectrum RX if not needed). Needs a CVD joint rebuild kit. Update: found a spring cup to use but its not a original. Also included is full set of front arms front/back shock tower, reinforced belts, hard drive cups. Motor and speedo is a generic 380 rotor in 540 can but it runs really well. $180 AE SC10 4x4 RTR (minus TX and I can remove the spectrum receiver if not needed) Missing one of the barrels that fits inside the CVD joint. Body has wrap applied. Hitec 645MG servo, castle 4 pole sidewinder system. I will include a clear SC10 body as well. This car has only been raced a couple of times. $200 HPI Nitro Rs4 MT, for parts, close to being a roller. I bought this for parts and it has a lot of purple hop ups. Team associated GT2 body. Parts for these are getting hard to find now that is the reason why i cant build the rest to completion $120 HPI Rs4 mt roller: Has a rear belt that is in poor shape. comes with two bug shells and one engine, no drivers cover or gear cover. Front MIP CVD's $120 AE RC10DS roller: Mustang body was trimmed poorly. The previous owner swapped out the hubs/knuckles over to traxxas ones so that standard touring car tires fit. Chassis is in great condition, missing battery cup. $120 Radioshack red arrow parts car free to a good home just pay the shipping. no remote or circuit board in the car