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Hello everyone, so i'm having some issues with a tamiya brushless combo, consisting out of a TBLM-01S motor, TBLE-04SR esc, TRU-07 reciever and TTU-07 sender. It started acting up after i soldered the on/off switch internally and soldered the ESC's wires directly to the motor which i have done in the past with electronics from other brands succesfully. When you power it up everything seems to work correctly, you can give it 100% throttle no issues, however as soon as you touch the brakes or release the throttle it just stops really abruptly, beeps, and a red/orange light flickers briefly. After that everything works again, but only for like halve a second. After that it beeps and stops as soon as you hit the throttle or reverse. After a while the red led starts flickering fast indicating that somethings wrong/broken/overheating, or the orange led starts flickering which would indicate that the sensor cable is broken/disconnected(?), or the green light starts flickering, no idea what that would mean. So i'm thinking i damaged something in the esc whilst shorting the power button internally, or the motor got too hot whilst soldering, however if anyone has some ideas of what i could still try i'd love to hear it. I already tried changing some of the settings, charged the batteries, and changed the sensor cable but to no avail.

I am looking for something different to build. I want it to be off-road but not necessarily a crawlers. I have some really great areas for bashing an off-roader Icelandic style so thought of the above as both are available as builders kits. I really want to build them rather than RTR. Does anybody have any experience of either. I was considering 3500kv brushless power for a little bit of oomph on 2s/3s? Any comments or experience would be appreciated

Hi gang. Does anybody have experience with the TBLM 02S motors in motors in an Avante or Egress for that matter? How much will performance increase by going with one of these motors compared to a stock Avante motor? Talking re-re of course. Thanks

I new here! Dear god please don’t tar and feather me! I mostly race Losi’s t5’s so I’m a bit out of touch with electric rc’s but I saw the tamiya 58578 zakspeed capri wurth (tt-02) and thought ok I need to own this, I’ve already got all the upgraded bearings! Now if it’s ok to get some help from all of tamiya experts. I would like to upgrade as much as I can and make it as fast and as reliable It can be using lipos. 1, what lipos can I get to fit to get the best run time? 2, what would be the best brushless motor and esc to use? 3, Best gearbox and diff upgrades can be used? 4, Best drive shafts? 5,Better suspension upgrades? 6,Oils grease and anything else I have forgotten? Many thanks in advance! Kind regards, Ian.

Time to start on the next build! Just waiting for my Castle 5700kv smart sense motor to come in, when paired with the Copperhead 10 ESC the motor adjusts timing as you drive and changes from sensored to sensorless after you launch! Been waiting a long time for this one to come in and very excited

Hey guys, finally got my original Madcap ripping again! Bought an aftermarket shell and decals to replace the destroyed original. Got rid of my burnt out stock diff for a custom made planetary gear diff from a decent group on ebay. Added an original aluminum motor plate because my plastic one broke, as well as some aftermarket rims and Pro-Line Blockade tires. Upgraded all the electronics with a Fuze 60a brushless ESC, Spektrum SR315 Receiver and a cheap 4370kv brushless motor from Surpass Hobby. Gotta say this is my favorite car to drive so far, the whine from the gearbox even with aftermarket diff sounds awesome and the way this thing handles is actually pretty decent, gotta love being able to pull wheelies while already cruising at half throttle! I'll have to figure out how to post some videos!

Hey guys, sorry it took so long but all of my parts finally came in for the Hotshot build! Shipping things to Canada takes forever sometimes. I'm going to start on the build before the New Year but I'll be in Alabama for work for a few weeks after that so updates will be a bit delayed! So I've got an original YOU-G bumper and aluminum wing, Pro Line rims that I painted white with Prime and Shadow 4WD slicks, MIP ball bearing differentials, a Futaba high torque metal gear servo, a special edition Copperhead 10 ESC, a HobbyStar 540 V3 10.5T SPEC motor, a Futaba 3PRKA transmitter and receiver combo, a Fast Eddy ball bearing kit and finally a Hotshot Dart body by TBG. Let me know if you have any suggestions for other hop ups! Thanks guys and wish me luck

Hey guys, happy to have found this community as I love Tamiya RC and have nobody to discuss it with! I used to race at my local tracks probably ten years ago and just got back into the hobby when I saw they were selling Tamiya buggy re releases. I have an original Frog that I restored back then but I had no idea re release was even a thing! I had to have some so I picked up a Frog and a Hotshot. My questions are about the Frog, what motor do you suggest for the most speed and power without destroying the car? I have upgraded the front suspension as well as the transmission with an MIP Super Ball Bearing Differential and added larger buggy wheels. I wanted to go brushless but I spoke with the guy who helped create this differential and he said even with the upgrade he wouldn't recommend it other than a very mild brushless motor or a 20 turn brushed motor. I am currently running an old Revenge of the Monster Horsepower Stock motor I had from when I used to race and I believe it's a 27 turn. I found a Traxxas 20 turn brushed motor but I'm not sure what would be best. Please let me know your brushless and brushed suggestions as well as gearing for a good all around basher. I will also be upgrading the Hotshot differentials to ball bearing in the future so I will be able to try a few of your suggestions. Thanks in advance!

Castle Monster X 25.2v ESC, 8A BEC W/1515-2200kV Sensored for a Savage XL Flux running 2S (x2) - what do you think?

Hi all, nothing special about this build but I am keen to share my experience with the 505210 CVA shocks and my thoughts om them and the ideal eyelets to get the ideal ride height. Basic assembly done.. nothing special. In photo #1 I have decided to ignore the instructions and keep that retaining screw in there. It may actually prevent the trans from slapping when hitting the gas. I am aware of the ampro chassis brace or 5th shock mod but in no great rush to do either. I had this kit a couple years ago in a Black Edition colourway with 100% stock set up. TLDR: 17.5 brushless is about the same speed. I didn't want to do anything too crazy, fearing that the 1987 gearbox may not handle it. Caution on the placement and rotation of the motor. the next increment anti-clockwise makes the wires hit the shock. A clockwise increment makes the wires hit the chassis. Below. I've chosen XT60 connectors as I'm familiar with XT90's on my other stuff and I am going to run this with my 2S shorty Lipo's via an adapter that I will make. The 3 motor wires go nicely through the rear parcel tray. The ESC is a Hobbywing Xerun 2.1 (Justock) - it belonged to my first indoor offroad 1/10 buggy and has since been superseded.

I've got this old Hobbywing Xerun that's a few years old and last used it 1.5 years ago for mod indoor buggy racing 10.5.... fast forward and I've put it into my Lunch Box with a 17.5 sensored motor and I want to have reverse reinstated. I have no program card... I know how to program my bigger Max6 no problem. This thing just goes beyond calibration mode and keeps flashing red with no other noises. Can someone please help? Has anyone had this issue? I'm not getting those wonderful beeps

Hi All, I have just received a Lunch Box and should receive ReRe Egress next week for lockdown projects. Could I please get some friendly advice on the below and experiences if any? I am slightly concerned that these kits may suffer if too much power is put through them. I am used to running 2S offroad AE 6.2 & 74.1 mod class buggies @ 10.5 and 8.5t, but I don't 100% understand why you can't run that spec in a Tamiya Under the advice of some friends I have narrowed down 2 systems but not sure which one should go in which car. Both RC's will be for gentle bashing only on smooth surfaces (especially the Egress) and run on 2s Lipo power. At hand I have (A) Hobbywing XeRun 120A ESC + 17.5 brushless Surpass motor And a friend suggested that I get a simple (easy to get in my country during lockdown): (B) Hobbywing Quicrun WP-1060 + 23T Tamiya RZ motor. [brushed system] I had a black edition LBox a few years ago and ran it stock, and the speed was a little light for me so I'd be keen on getting it a little speedier. Hope you can shed some thoughts on above suitability for each of my builds. I have to admit from a aesthetic point of view, option (B) would look nicer in the Egress with less wires to manage, plus a genuine Tamiya motor too. It would make more sense for the Egress to be the faster of the two?

Tamiya TRF Transpeed Brushless Octa-Wind 4.5T Motor. BRAND NEW, UNOPENED and in the UK now, so no long wait or disappointment: Other sellers sometimes only order from Tamiya when you’ve paid! If it’s out of stock you then face a very long wait, and then sometimes disappointment when it can’t be supplied. Save the worry and be reassured of a quick and guaranteed delivery: £140.00

Tamiya Volac - BL2 Brushless Esc - 42144 - Brand New and unopened. Other sellers sometimes only order from Tamiya when you’ve paid! If it’s out of stock you then face a very long wait, and then sometimes disappointment when it can’t be supplied. Save the worry and be reassured of a quick and guaranteed delivery. In the UK now so no waiting or disappointment. Took months to get and not cheap, but fast becoming collectable. This is the ESC that Marc Rheinland used to win the 2008 IRMAR World Championship. For expert use: £320.00

Hi, I have a few Tamiya, TRF tools and parts for sale: 1x Tamiya - 45057 TBLE-O2S Brushless ESC - £22.00 1x Tamiya TRF - 42147 Hex Wrench 2.5mm - £28.00 1x Tamiya TRF - 42161 Screwdriver M - £28.00 4x Tamiya TRF - 42351 Centre Pully - £22.00 each All plus postage. Feel free to respond here or email me directly: helenstott17@yahoo.co.uk

In the dim and distant past pre Covid 19 Jadlam had Dual Riders on special. Now I didnt need one, in fact I thought they were a bit of a gimmick, however after watching a few youtube videos thought it might be fun so pulled the trigger. Once it arrived I thought it might be fun to hop it up a bit so started collecting Tamiya and YR hop ups along with a Hobbywing brushless combo. I also bought a lipo as I thought this might be a good way to try them out. I already had a charger that will do lipos. Whilst looking for hopups on RCMart I came across a body kit of a Pizza/Chinese delivery trike on the T3-03. In the basket it went!!! All of the stuff was here just after lockdown started. I had a few other things to do so I put it away for a rainy day. Well those of you who live in the UK will know over the last couple of weeks we've had quite a few rainy days so I got it out and started. Its a surprisingly enjoyable build, really quite clevererly designed and as usual goes together with Tamiyas usual ruthless efficiency including all the hop ups. Below are a string of photos of the main parts of the build, I had two hitches along the way, one was a that I needed a single male deans plug and all my spare plugs are XT60's. Fortunately @Wez-li helped out. Feel really guilty as the postage was more than the cost of a plug. Many thanks. The other hitch was the brushless motor has a longer can than the stock 370 so I had to raid the spares to find some wider hex's so that the wheels don't rub on the cables. The Pizza body is going to be a labour of love not least as the instructions are only in Japanese!!!. This is where I've got to: When I get a moment I will list all the hop ups that I have added, its quite a few for such a small vehicle!!!

Hello! Still not sure if i should post that, i guess some People might dont like the conversion, but since i converted a TGX to Brushless also, they way for the TGR Project was free All started with some TGX Cars, somewhere i saw the TGR Chassis and liked it, specialy with my most loved Body Shell the TS020 Toyota GT - One which was also hard to get. Since the TGR has only 2 Speed Gear i had to use a TGX Single Speed shaft and Added a Modul 1 Main Gear, shortened the TGX Gear Support, using a TB02 Motor Mount which has the same height as the TGR Bearing Carrier. ofc the Shaft is Shorter then the TGR 2 Speed Shaft so i had to make a New Prop Shaft which is 4mm longer then an original TGR one, the Chassis itself is selfmade since i dont want do Drill the One Original Chassis Plate i got, u cant get another new one at a reasonable price lol ! The Wheel Question was one of the hardest parts, the Original Wheels are Rare and expensive to, so i was searching around, ending in the 1/8 Nitro Race Car Corner, the Front Foam Wheels fits kinda 95% and are dirt cheap, with the Right Rim Type they can be added on the Original 12mm Hex Hubs (just reverse them ) of the TGR with an Custom made Nut to accept the 12mm Hole of the Wheel. fittet with an custom Upper Deck to and some parts from different Brands it finally come together, just need another ESC, the Mamba Monster Max is way to big for it lol It did his First drive out on a Cold Street, totaly fun Regards, Oswald

Hi everyone, This is my first post so please be gentle! I'm building the XV01 and I've bought an 8.5T Tamiya/LRP motor and LRP ESC. I'm a real newbie so I have no idea what I've got myself into as far as gearing, and a whole lot of hurt (according to the hobby guy who doesn't want to know me). Can anybody please help me with the number of pinion, spur, and any other advice you're prepared to give time sharing, when it comes to this set up. I have bought a front one way unit, and about to order the slipper clutch and a few other things that I don't really understand to be honest, but they appear to be upgrades! I also rapidly ordered some 70mm shocks, without being sure whether that will suit the model or not. So if you're not totally disgusted with my lack of knowledge while impulse buying on eBay, I'd appreciate any help turning it into a mean rally car that will make me and the mates laugh even if it is over powered. Thanks for reading :)

Hi All, With the quarantine stretching on I got ambitious with upgrading my son’s Sand Viper. The kit comes with the brushless ready TBLE-02 S. Reading the forums here it sounded like pairing this with 2s lipo, a steel pinion and a 13.5T sensored brushless was a good route to some fun (thank you!). I acquired a Muchmore Fleta ZX v2 13.5T https://www.amainhobbies.com/muchmore-fleta-zx-v2-13.5t-er-spec-brushless-motor-mmrmr-v2zx135er/p693983 After soldering it all together the ECS starts up flashing red/green which indicates it thinks it’s in sensorless mode. Ok here’s the trouble shooting I’ve tried: 1) Attach the old sport tuned brushed motor: works fine. 2) Attached an old sensorless brushless motor: esc starts up in low voltage warning mode 3) Removed the sensor harness and tried running the Muchmore motor: it gave a small shudder and was clearly getting power than stopped and gave the over load protection warning. (This May have been unwise but I was looking for options) 4) Attached an NiMH battery and tried steps 1-3 plus the original setup with the Muchmore, table-02 and the nimh: same results across the board. I attached a picture of the setup and am happy to take more. It could be my solders are bad (they sure are ugly) but they are very solid, I could lift the car with them. There’s no crossover or short on the solder. And step three above seems to indicate the motor is getting power. I’m happy to chase any ideas or suggestions. Thanks in advance!

Hello everybody, I'm kind of a newbie to Tamiya and electric R/C, but 2 months ago I bought an M05 Chassis and upgraded it a bit. A couple of days ago I also bought a TT-02SR Chassis and thought it would be fun to equip it with a brushless motor. I already got a Tamiya Speed controller (TBL02S) with the M-chassis which is compatible with brushed and brushless motor. I bought myself the Carson 11.5T Dragster Pro, which is specially designed for the TBL02S (according the details). I attached all the wires as said in the manual, but it is not working. The LED on the speed controller keeps blinking. When I pull out the sensorcable and try again, it gives a short motorsound, and then imidiately turns off. I hope anyone has an idea of what could be going on here? I would appreciate the help!

Having cut my 40-something year old teeth on Bigwig and Boomerang re-res last year, I decided it was time to try something a bit more complicated and 'modern'. I went for a DF03 Dark Impact, and bought the kit last August and spent the following months reading up on previous builds, known weak spots and tracking down the necessary (and some totally unnecessary!!) Hop Ups. Having finally sorted out a hardened steel main gear for the slipper shaft, and suddenly having a lot of extra spare time, I decided to get going. The full list of hop-ups I managed to track down is: Square RC SDI-27R Hardened Steel Rear Differential Joint Tamiya 53925 Slipper Clutch with RW Racing Hardened Steel Main Gear Pinion 3mm Ceramic Silicon Nitride Differential Bearing Balls Tamiya 53922 05 Module Pinion Gears (23T / 25T) Tamiya 53923 05 Module Pinion Gears (27T / 29T) 4x 850zz Ball Raced Bearings Tamiya 53931 Centre One Way Set Tamiya 53953 Front One Way Set Tamiya 53924 Heat Sink Bar Set Tamiya 53948 Aluminium One-Piece Propeller Cup Joint (x2) 3 Racing DF03-05/LB Aluminium Propeller Shaft Square TC SDI-3 Graphite Front Damper Tower 3 Racing DF03-06/WO Rear Damper Tower Xtra Speed XS-OM27001 Front Damper Set Xtra Speed XS-OM227002 Rear Damper Set 3 Racing DF03-22/LB Rear Suspension Stiffener Square RC SDI-17 Steering Crank Tamiya 53941 Aluminium Steering Turnbuckle Tamiya 53940 Hard Turnbuckle Set Tamiya 51000 Hi-torque servo saver Tamiya 54121 Aluminium horn for hi- torque servo saver Tamiya 53791 Universal Shafts (x2) Yeah Racing DF03-006BU Aluminium Front Knuckle Arm Square RC SDI-36 Aluminium Front C-Hub Square Racing SDI-42 Rear Hub T-Bone Racing 56004 DF03 Front Bumper T-Bone Racing 56002 DF03 Rear Bumper Tamiya 53949 Aluminium Battery Stopper Pin Yeah Racing DF03-021BU Aluminium Battery Holder Tamiya 53984 Buggy Rear Wing Tamiya 53569 Aluminium Clamp Wheel Hub Tamiya 53161 Anodized 4mm Lock Nuts (Gold) Core RC CR062 Small Body Clips (Gold) Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL120 ESC Hobbywing Quicrun 3650 Sensored Motor 8.5T Lots of new things to learn with this build...changing gears on shafts (already done!), soldering, building and breaking in ball diffs. Going to take my time and try and avoid too many hiccups.

I thought I had a thread about this but can't find it so if I already have one, it can be merged. I built this a good few years ago but someone has been asking questions so thought I would post a few pics of the install. It has been years since I worked on this. Gave up after around 35?mph decided that I couldn't really compete with 1/10 scale in the top speed Tamiya thread but I believe it's still in the top 20. Originally bought as a non runner for less than £20. Added M chassis rally block tyres. Ezrun 1/18th? It's a 2030 can at around 5700kv I think?. If I remember right, it's the 12turn motor. And the ESC takes 3s with multiple programmable features. Standard 1/10 servo held with servo tape and a cable tie through chassis to prevent any movement. Removed part of the top deck to get battery lower down. Running a badly puffed 2200mah 2,s. It puffed in a different car, it should be plenty for this car. Ball ends and adjusters with M3 threaded rod. Bottom of chassis with battery door open. I think that's it, if I remember anything else or you want to know anything, please ask.

Hi all, have spent a lot of time reading here so though it was time to contribute! As a child I had an original grasshopper as my second RC car, can’t recall what the first one was! That’s long gone but I still have the M01 Mini I got as a birthday present. Also have an M02 chassis I plan to build up soon. Both will be on modern esc and radio gear, though I do still have the acoms set from the mini, just appears it no longer works. After building a Plasma Edge 2 for my girlfriend’s son I decided I needed a piece of the action again! So far it’s as follows: TT02B Dual Ridge in pearl white Futaba 3PV & R304SB Radio Futaba S3014 waterproof servo GPM Ballraced steering Full bearings Blue star dish wheels on the way Will add metal gears for the new motor Ive run it once and fancy more power. I plan on going for a hobbywing 3652 5400kv combo which I know/think is way over the top. My thinking here is as I’m still running NIMH I won’t be getting anything like full power from it, plus I can tone it down on the transmitter for normal running but have the option of it being silly fast if I want to get a lipo. As the motor combos are the same price on all power options am I heading in the right direction or am I missing something? edit: believe I am missing something on doing some further reading. Need to decide between 3300, 4000 or 5400kv.

Having skulked around taking so much advice and so many tips from these forums, thought it was time to contribute! This will be my second ever Tamiya kit build. My first was a Bigwig re:re a couple of months ago, which was very much by the book. This, a Boomerang re:re, is going to go off piste a bit! Now I've bitten the bullet and put this out there, I'm really hoping I don't make a total hash of it!

Hi, i'm new to RC and i'm looking to get a on-road car to join my local club. long story short i'm currently in the run for a TT-02R. I'm wondering though which engine i should put best in it. If possible i'd like to swap the engine and esc sometimes out with my traxxas slash to go of-road ( and crash :) ). I gave up on my slash some years ago after the engine broke and i replaced it with a slower one, it just wasn't fun anymore. So now i'm looking for a brushless set which hopefully can go into the TT-02 for driving with the club aswell as in the slash for just messing around. I'm just lost a bit with the KV and Turn numbers. The velineon engines can go 70+mph with 10T 3500kv while i saw a 5000KV 9T only doing about half that. i already read that for off-road you need to go high in turns and for on-road low in turns. Is there a golden midway that would make both cars "fast" ( but not wheelie 24/7 fast) ( e.g. my slash currently looks like a snail in the grass) in terms of KV and turns for on-road/off-road driving? i currently have my eyess upon a 12T 3700kv engine though i'm still not sure if that will be able to meet the requirements. Thanks, Wouter