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I want to mount a camera on 1 or 2 of my buggies , just to record some video - What camera would you guys recommend ? Not really looking to spend a ton, but would like a good quality image - Also, is there a way to protect from rollover damage or would the regular clear plastic case handle that? Never owned a Gopro - so any advice would be great! thanks

Hard times are happening around here, so regretfully I am listing the following models for sale: - Tamiya Striker (58061) - Tamiya Lancia Rally (58040) [sorted] - Tamiya Buggy Champ 2009 (58441) - Tamiya Avante Black Special (84270) [sold] All four are in complete, used, working condition. The Striker is near-box-art (except for front cockpit screen and driver torso). It has been fitted with alloy rear wheel hubs, a modified Team CRP front chassis brace, and ball bearings all around (sealed types at the front wheels). The car shows signs of wear and use, with some tattered decals - it was definitely a runner, and will be cleaned before shipping. Many of the spares from my other TamiyaClub sale listing will be included in the sale of this car. Looking for $225 CAD, shipped worldwide. [Lancia Rally sorted] The Buggy Champ is finished in dark-green with box-art decals. It is fitted with the hop-up ball differential, an aluminium chassis, a homemade switch cover, and a set of Tamtech GB-01 aeration dampers all around. Of the four, this car is in the most-used state, and could benefit from a restoration. Looking for $200 CAD, shipped worldwide. [Avante Black Special sold] These cars are being sold with their electronics; upon request they can be removed at a discount. I am listening to offers and will negotiate via PM. These cars are located in Canada. I have PayPal; payment a gift preferred. Thank you for reading. Edit: Note that I will be absent from May 11th - 28th, so communications will be sparse during that time, and shipments delayed until the 29th.

Does anyone know where I can get a chassis cover for a Holiday Buggy 2010? Thanks :-)

Sold pending payment For sale. Front and rear big bore aeration buggy shocks made by Tamiya. Full alloy bodies with alloy caps. Tamiya Part Number 54504 and 54505 with 54506 and 54508 (i think for the 54508) Comes with the extra sets of front and rear springs for these shocks. And all mounting hardware. Ive had them fitted to my TT02B but ive never ran them. There is a slight mark ontop of one of the caps. Selling them as im not going to fully use them as Tamiya intended. £75 inc postage and fees. Royal Mail 1st class signed. Pics on request as i cant get them uploaded it on here. Whatsapp - 07543967949 https://www.dropbox.com/s/pwpknyylghdhgdu/FB_IMG_1490372212930.jpg?dl=0

Hi Very rare tamiya kit NIB. Will consider selling this kit if i get the right prize. or trade in a Tamiya Astute in great condition. Please contact me per email. Ole.hundhammer@gmail.com Regards Ole Christian Hundhammer Norway

got my "new" falcon in house but the tires are dry rotten and hard as can be. measured the rims and they are around 1.75inch at the beat front and rear? correct? what tire alternatives are out there? and what cars use the same size? (for reference for others with the same size wheels) found for the rear jconceps 1.7. will these fit? and the jconcept 1.9 ribbed for the front? (to big but maybe they stretch a litlle on 1.9) really want to stick with the stock wheels and rather make tires fit than change to a decent size wheel.

As above. Need both front and rear. But dont need the other parts that come on the parts tree.

Quick shot of my collection.

This is my rebuild thread of my Baja King. Originally I bought this to strip for parts for another project, but I've decided to rebuild it and use it instead. Plans include:- New Chassis New Body Posts New Suspension Towers DT-03 Oil Shocks 3800kv Castle Motor 80a Hobbywing ESC Savox 1257TG

So the summer season is now upon us, and Chippenham Model Car Club (CMCC) are venturing out from the safety of the school sports hall for the first time in 2016. All over the county, people are dusting off their buggies and charging up their grass-stained hardcase lipos ready to hit the turf. And, in true English fashion, the good weather of the weekend had broken, the clouds are rolling in and the forecast is for rain! I've spent the winter racing indoors at West Wilds Model Car Club (WWMCC), but Chippenham is only another 15 minutes up the road and it's much nicer to be out in the fresh air than stuck inside a windowless civic hall. So last night, much to the annoyance of my wife, I passed up on a round at WWMCC so I could drag my B4.1 Factory Team down out of the loft and make sure it still works. It's been a couple of years at least since it was last run, maybe longer. It was put back in the box after the last race and, apart from taking out the receiver and transponder, not touched since. I was surprised (and obviously pleased) to find everything pretty much as I left it. Nothing has rusted or seized, everything turns smoothly and there weren't any forgotten breakages. With a bit of Walking The Himalayas to add some white noise to the background, I grabbed a spare receiver and transponder and got it all wired up ready to go. First thing to find was my hardcase stick packs, expensive Turnigy Nano-Tech 5.3s that I bought some while ago and didn't use much. Imagine my dismay at seeing them both slightly bulging - naturally I stored them with full capacity, expecting to use them again, and because they don't fit my Tamiya bashers, I never did. They've had a few top-ups since they were stored but I haven't cycled them in probably over a year. Anyway, they both read near-full charge and the Core RC charger topped them off without making them explode, so they can't be too far gone yet. While they were sitting in the corner doing their ticking timebomb thing, I set to sorting the car's electrics. I actually went through 3 new (unopened) ORX receivers before I got one to bind - for some reason they were all on strike but eventually (after switching from the Etronix brushless speedo to the Probe WP in my M03) I got a signal out of one of them. Transferring it quickly to my B4 before it could unbind itself, I had some action. I threw in a charged pack and went for a test-run. I don't have any grass in my house and the nearest green space (only 5 mins walk away) is too overgrown for a 1:10 buggy, so I had a very careful run up and down the tarmac. I think I should get some tarmac tyres for the B4 so I can run it on the lane behind my house, just for setting up. Those tyres (I'm pretty sure they're the super-soft Prolines that we use for the final race, after the temperatures drops below the dewpoint) will shred themselves in seconds on tarmac. It's a pity I didn't think of getting the buddy out earlier, as I'd have liked to have my 2016 paint scheme on the shell instead of the crappy one I have (a personal favourite design of mine, but I accidentally picked up the "dull ruddy orange" instead of the "fluorescent red" when putting on the final colour so it looks totally lame), but there just wasn't time to get a new body ordered and painted in time. In other news, the wife was terribly upset that I interrupted her plans by staying home last night, so I promised I'd be out late tonight to give her plenty of space to do whatever it was she was planning on doing. This was before the weather reports started forecasting rain, so there's every chance I'll be looking for a pub to sit in for a few hours if the race is called off... Rain is just starting to hit the windows here! Anyway, fancy paint jobs don't win races, and I haven't raced buggies in some time, so I'll probably be back to basics in the slow heat and challenging to relearn my car. Watch this space for updates of "yay! racing outdoors is brilliant!" or "boo, it rained all night!" or "I broke my car again" soon

Due to me upgrading to some nice big bore aeration dampers, my old DB01R Aeration TRF Dampers are for sale. They come as pictured, along with a full brand new set of rear setting springs and also a full set of Soft, Medium and Hard springs that have hardly been used. Also comes with a few spare hardware items etc to help attach to different vehicles. The pre load collars all have a small red paint mark on them to help make sure they are all centred, this doesn't effect the dampers at all. These are awesome dampers and are away to receive a full strip down and full clean and rebuild using some 35wt oil all round before whom ever buys them. They do have the odd mark here and there on them as they have been used for racing in my DB01R, but the shafts are not damaged and the seals do not leak at all. I have no idea what these are worth tbh, so lets say a cheap £30 posted 1st class in the UK . James

While my vintage buggy still has all the standard wheels and rubber, i wanted to take advantage of commonly available alternatives so i could put the original stuff away. The rear is simple if you have the re-re axles as they already have a pin layout allowing you to add a 12mm Hex adapter and fit most 2.2 wheels of your choice. However I was still looking at the best options for adding 2.2 wheels and tyres to the front of my Rough Rider, and wanted to share my journey and solution. The twin challenges were getting rims that were bearing enabled, and extending the axle out enough so the new rim didn't interfere with the steering upright. I found some JConcepts rims for the front that are meant for Team associated models (they take an imperial bearing but a 5x9x3 with a small shim or loctite still works fine), but they still needed to be spaced out far enough that there were too few threads for the nut. So I needed an axle extender. I could have ordered the CRP extenders but with the Sth pacific peso heading south daily, and me being too impatient to wait for up to 30 day delivery, I looked around for some alternative options. I usually start this kind of DIY bodge with the thought of "what can I repurpose" rather than starting from scratch. So I looked at the problem from 2 directions was there something with an M4 thread to screw onto the existing axle that had an OD close to 5mm, or was there something with a 5mm OD to match the axle OD, that could be tapped for an m4 thread. In the end I tried both methods. Option 1 - M4 threaded inserts I found threaded inserts (rivnuts) with M4 threads and a 6mm OD at a local hardware store The rivnuts threaded on to the existing front axle just fine, but obviously the outer diameter was too big to allow my bearings to fit. Not having access to a Lathe, I was wondering how to manage this when it struck me that using a spare rear axle as a holder, I could put the whole lot in a drill, and with gentle pressure use a file to take the 0.8mm I needed off the OD. This turned out to be easier than expected; This worked out fine, but with a largish overhang from the part not reduced which I would take up with a washer and spacer. Option 2 - 5mm OD spacers Coincidentally I found a second option in an electronics store in the form of 5mm steel "stand-off" spacers. These hold a circuit board off another, and were hollow with a 5mm OD, so then needed an M4 thread in them. While I've never used a tap to cut a thread, I did have a set, so figured since they were so cheap, I could probably afford to mess around some. In the end it was again pretty straightforward and seemed to have worked fine. I threaded them full length so I could use an M4 bolt to hold a washer and spacer at the other end. The advantage of this method is that I can easily cut the extension to size, which is not as easy with the rivnuts due to their shape. At the moment I have it at a length that means I add a small spacer and washer to hold the bearing in. I'm waiting until I get the slightly larger bearings before I cut it down to exact size, but have loctited them to the axle so they don't unwind on reversing. The total cost of the rivnut method was ~A$5 (or 25c a piece if you made all 20 into extenders), and the standoff method was a little higher at ~62c a piece. This compares to about A$19 if ordered off ebay, plus i got to install and use them about 1 hour after i started the project.. Here's the end result on my buggy. Hopefully this helps someone else.

I recently picked up a TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor. I want to try putting it in my Buggy Champ but the instructions suggest a gear ratio of 9:1. Are there gears out there that give me this ratio and fit under the gear cover? If so, what's a good place to buy these type of gears? -- Jeff

I recently obtained this "barn find" vintage Tamiya buggy. I believe it is a Grasshopper, but I'm not sure. The back wheels are definitely not stock. Can anyone help verify my ID of this buggy? It's rough, but is there any value in it. Thanks!

I was running my old Monster Beetle just today after many years of disuse and I noticed something that got me thinking. When the vehicle was in a rough spot and really needed some torque on the wheels, I noticed the wheels (aluminum rims) were just 'slipping' inside the tires. That is, the tires were not spinning, but the motor, tranny, differential, axles, and rims were all moving. There is apparently not enough grip between the tire and rim to organically prevent this. A long-standing question I also have, which I imagine relates in a round about way, is this: I can't figure out why my Monster Beetle has shocks. Every time I hit a bump that would normally actuate the shocks, the tires just compress. When running the car the shocks do not move even once. The tires just 'deflate' to absorb the shock. (To be clear, the re-inflate each time, too.) Both of these seem to indicate a poor contact between tire and rim. How do you guys deal with this? Or do you at all? Should I be gluing my tires onto the rims? Should I buy slightly smaller tires? I'd love to hear feedback from the community. Thanks!

Has anyone else encountered this issue? It seems like the steering rods on the RX are about 5mm too long on each side so that even with the suspension under no compression the front wheels point inwards. Is there a suitable upgrade available that is adjustable or a way of shortening them without weakening them? I'd also like to know if there is a way to make the link between the servo and capstan more rigid as it introduces a lot of "flop" into the steering. Thanks in advance for any ideas!

I'm just wondering what the fundamental differences are in the TRF 501X, 511X and 503X buggies. I'm aware the 502X is the shaft drive but I can't see any fundamental layout differences in the belt drive versions aside from the 503 having the latest big bore dampers etc. Can anyone with expertise in this area please give a breakdown of the defences between these buggies, ideally with plus points and minus points between each one? thanks

I'm looking for these parts in used condition: - Ranger front body post - rear cage - antenna + pin - lower arm left - upright left - 2 front springs (for the front suspension) - 2 cam locks - transparent motor + gear cover (A-Parts) Please send a PM if you can help. Many thanks in advance!

Found this today: http://www.pbase.com/asmywhim/automobiles&page=2

For some of you this sight might be familiar already from oOple, but being a Tamiya based project, I really yhink I should post this here as well I present to you, the TRF201 FF: oOple Development/Build Thread Specs/Features List: - TRF201 Gearbox (with Ball Differential and Slipper Clutch). - DB01 Front Uprights+Caster Blocks. - TRF HL Aeration Dampers. - Double Wishbone Front Suspension with Inboard Dampers. - Trailing Arm Rear Suspension (2 Degrees Toe-In, -2 Degrees Camber each side). - Developed for use with a Low Profile Steering Servo and 'Shorty' (=95mm long) LiPo Stick Pack. - Compatible with modern Pin-Type Rear Wheels on the whole car. - BRCA, EFRA and BNK Legal to run in 2WD Dlass. - Approx. 284mm Wheelbase, 250mm Width. Existing/Production parts in the design: - TRF201 Gearbox. - TRF HL (TRF201) Aeration Dampers. - TRF201 Steering Arms+Servo Saver. - DB01+TRF201 Suspension Blocks on the front suspension. - DB01/DF03 Hybrid Universal Shafts (DF03 70mm dogbone, DB01 rear axle). - TRF201 45mm Titanium Turnbuckles (for camber links). - TRF Adjusters on the whole car. - DB01/TRF Rear Wheel Axles (for the rear wheels). - 4x Pin-Type Rear Wheels.

Hi there, [Edit: the album linked below has been made public, sorry about that] I'm parting out a built but never used TRF 501X kit and almost everything is for sale. I've not priced all the bits up yet but the prices will be at or below 80% of the lowest ebay price for people here at TC (+shipping at cost). AVAILABLE [501X/DB01] Hop-Up front one-way+Hop-Up adapter [501X] TRF Carbon parts - chassis, top braces, shock towers [501X] TRF Aluminium parts - all bulkheads, motor mount, all suspension mounts, battery posts, [501X] TRF Shell - body, wing and undertray - untrimmed and not painted SOLD [501X] Full Hop-Up steering set [501X/DB01] TRF Suspension - TRF Buggy Dampers [#54028] [501X/DB01] TRF Drivetrain - Slipper clutch, ball diff, steel outdrives, F+R CV shafts, 2 x 369 mm belts If you want something then just post your initial interest in this thread (I'll certainly reply) and if it goes beyond that we can migrate to PM/email. I also have some spare plastics like arms and hubs as well as a full turnbuckle set so if you need some odds and ends post in this thread and I can have a look for you. If you can see this album (link) there are some pics there for good measure. Cheers, Dave