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Quick background on how I came around to this model. I wanted a rig that I could take with me on my walks back through the "woods" and around a field. I wanted something that only went at about a walking pace and could handle some moderate off-roading. I originally was looking at crawlers and almost got an Ascender. I just could never get over what the final price $$ might end up being. The SCX-10ii didn't really do anything for me as it seemed like eeeeevvvvverybody has one. I started looking into the CC01 because of it's "budget" price. Upon reading through @Effigy3 Bronco build, I decided I was getting one. The Landfreeder body was the one I was drawn to the most. So I started ordering stuff... As you can see from the picture, bearings, 80T motor, HW1080, Aluminum motor mount, and some mud tires. Took me a bit to get started as I first wanted to get a new work bench put up to build on. That will do. Time to start building! This won't be a super detailed thread. Most of it will be built stock as far as suspension and steering for now. Motor and front diff. Did not lock the diff, but did use a liberal amount of AW grease. Rest of the front gears, and in the chassis. My how quickly the workbench gets cluttered... Stopped there and resumed a couple of days later.

Hi to all! I need some information! I have a CC01 Pajero Rally (the grey version, not the black and low version). I use a carson remote + servo. I use the blocked differential mode i use the RC for exposition and, when I use it, only for off road (to tell you the true i have a real Pajero 2003 grey with black wheel, very identical to this RC) Now I buy a 4 wheel (wheel rim and Tire) black with maximum size 2.2" (I measure and are 10.8 cm of diameter) but there are too big because the bodyshell do not fit and when suspension is all compress the wheel touch the chassis. This wheel are very pretty and I will keep it but I buy another kit of 4 wheel (wheel rim and Tire) that have size, extimated, of 1.9" . this wheel is not yet arrived but I suppose that size MAYBE fit in my car without touching chassis (but maybe the bodysheel still can't used). I'm thinking to rise my RC like in real car (my real car has a +5" kit) for a better (in my opinion) aesthetic appearances and can fit big wheel. I not know if it is possible and I'm writing here for ask you that: Is possible to rise my RC pajero gray CC01 chassis? if yes can you link me the kit to buy or the spare part? thanks Massimiliano

Hi TC folks! This is my first thread on the forum. A quick r/c biography: I admired the Hornet in the late 80's and finally got my first kit, the Madcap in the early 90's. I gave nitro a go with a Thunder Tiger Celica rally car (hated it with a passion), then came back to electric cars with a second Madcap. My last car was on-road, a TA02 upgraded special edition Calsonic Skyline - awesome car, loved it! Sadly my Madcaps are long gone but I still have the TA02 and hope to rebuild it as a runner in the near future - keep an eye out for that thread! I started looking at r/c cars again (+20 years on) when my son was old enough to become interested (a common scenario, I'm sure!) I fell in love with the FJ40 (CC01) probably thanks to my grandfather having one back in the 80's. I did a LOAD of reading of online forums (a little too much perhaps) in anticipation of the build. There is so much info out there on the CC01 chassis. I found @XV Pilot's CC01 Pajero Project thread a great resource and kept coming back to it. I also became addicted to Matteo's Youtube channel - every time I hear that backing music in his videos I reach for my wallet and want to buy another kit or upgrade something....anything. I've been reading these pages for about a year now. What a great community and resource it is! I thought I would share the love and upload a build thread of my FJ40 (CC01) as I learnt a thing or two along the way. Unfortunately I didn't photograph a lot of the initial build but there are already a bunch of CC01 build threads out there. I thought I'd highlight some of the changes and upgrades I've made over the past few months. The plan was to keep it stock and upgrade slowly to appreciate the difference of each modification. From all my reading, the following areas needed some attention: Tyres - stock ones look scale but are way too hard. Steering - the stock plastic steering is pretty crude and develops quite a lot of slop. Suspension - the rear plastic links are fairly soft and interfere with the engagement of the shocks. Motor and pinion - something a bit slower than the stock 540 would give it a more "scale speed" and I heard steel pinions are the way to go. I remember chewing through the aluminium ones on my Madcap and TA02 regularly. Bearings - the first thing I learnt back in the day was to get rid of those plastic bearings and bushings ASAP. Better run times and no slop with wear. Scale accessories - that FJ40 body looks fantastic but I was really looking forward to adding some cool scale accessories. So I took the plunge and picked up the following gear from my local hobby shop: Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 (CC01 chassis) Futaba 3PRKA 3 channel radio. Hitech D645MW servo 4700 NiMH battery Paint for the body (white roof, black fenders and main colour) I ordered the bearing kit online around the same time so I had to slow the build down (rather than use the stock plastic "bearings") and wait for them to arrive. In the meantime I built everything I could that didn't need bearings. It was pretty exciting unpacking another Tamiya kit after all these years....(that smell).... The bearings finally arrived so I got stuck into the build. All wired up and ready for a test run around the house... To be continued.... Next - body trimming, washing, masking, painting and decals!

Dear Tamiya friends, I finally decided to show my project. I’m newbie here in this forum but not with RC. I started my hobby in mid 80’s with Tamiya RoughRider 😀 Last ten years I have been flying rc helicopters and planes. Dream was always to build a Tamiya Ford Ranger. I bought a Blackfoot body and fixed it with some modifications to CC-01 chassis. I know that there is some better crawler options awailable but I wanted to keep it as a Tamiya product 😀 So here it is. I will send later some more detailed pictures

So a New Year brings new changes. I haven't done as much RC building etc the last couple of years as I would have wanted (gee, that sounds almost like a confession!). This year I've managed to start off with a much more positive. As I have a number of projects, I thought it would be better to do one thread than to start lots of smaller threads that aren't updated regularly. With that I will start off with my CC01 build. I bought this one just over a year ago second had. Both the body and the chassis had been cut up. But at least it worked (and I got it cheap). So the before pics.

Another CC01 build, I've been fascinated with these little trucks since I first cracked open my XC01 Jeep back in the 90's. Got hold of a Tamiya Izuzu Amigo body in a trade that was a little worse for wear. Gladly traded a new Pajero shell for it as I like the look, and it's something different. I figured since it was already fairly beat, it would be a fine body to take out on the woods and trail worry free! I was debating some sort of solid axle rig, but in the end it was right at home on a CC01 chassis where the good Lord intended. I had one here I was messing with converting over to an HPI suspension, and after some wheelbase adjustments, it dropped right on. It had a 3:1 reduction and Tamiya Xacto mini motor ready to go - best combo out there for a trail ready CC chassis. I also used some lead fishing wire to line the chassis rails to add some weight down low. Rear suspension started with some modified Axial Wraith brackets to angle the shocks for a bit more travel. Front is modified with some HPI parts..more on that later. A look at the bottom. Junfac sliders and some others odds and ends The body was missing the rear section, so I added some cross bars and mesh to fill it in. A modified Dingo interior is also velcro'd in to fill in the hole. The PO of this body used a lighter apparently to melt and flare out the wheel wells. They were (are) a wavy mess on all for corners...I started sanding down to get them close, and eventually I'll fill a bit so they are somewhat straight. The orange paint has to go, so there's a lot of bodywork in the future for this truck. Painted the details on the grill and removed the front bumper as it was cracked and pretty much an eyesore. Now has a much more appropriate off road front end!

Hello Tamiyaclub! I've been an Avid Tamiya fan for 25 years, and have been on this site daily for years. It's about time I finally got off my duff and started posting. This is is finished project, but thought I'd post the build here to catch up, as well as set the stage for any future changes. I love working on these little trucks - no two are the same in the end. Pretty sure there's not another going to be one like this out there anywhere. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Here's what I started with. A rough chassis that was used pretty hard as an FJ in a previous life. (Actually, this was about 1/2 way through mockup. ...) This chassis had a homebrew gear reduction that I worked up with some 5mm bore pinions and some spare parts. I've never ran it, but it tests out nice and smooth. It's about 2.5:1 as it stands, but I can change the pinions to vary the ratios. Nice little mod for about $10 in parts. I wanted to go a different route here, so I dug through my big Tamiya suspension box and found some old Wild Dagger/TL01B arms and hubs and made everything fit. Works out to a 220mm width from hex face to hex face so it's about Axial XR mod width (ish). Rear is spaced out with some hex wideners (for now) Dug around for some shocks in my big box of mostly old shocks, and found some Kyosho shocks from a Nitro ZR-1 Vette that have amazingly held oil for nearly 25 years, and were in very good shape. They were close enough for the rear. Some old kinda matching Kyosho nitro TR-15 shocks were the perfect size for the front. They have a built in notched adjuster for preload that is so simple and handy that every shock should come like this. In any case, I cleaned them up, dumped out the oil from both sets, drilled the pistons for crawler duty, and filled them both with 20wt oil. Started with the stock CC01 shocks out front and some Wraith purple springs out back. Total guess on the setup...very much subject to change. Rear shocks for mounted to some old CR01 (staying in the family this time!) chassis parts modded for shock tower duty and braced up for stiffness. Cleaned the chassis up quite a bit here too. Fuel tank here maybe? Fronts get Hot Racing aluminum mounts up top (some upgrades I apparently forgot to rob for my other CC's) which give 3 different upper mount locations. I made a front tie bar to stiffen everything up as well. Really, it was just an excuse to drill up some speed holes. While I was at it, I made a new radio plate just for giggles. Here's where this is going kinda maybe sorta not sure yet but I like it:

Because I have a cc01 Unimog coming the following is for sale 1x NIB CC-01 Pajero black special lowrider No esc inc. Inc. Free UK shipping £110, PayPal gift please [I'll inc an esc from the Unimog once it arrives] Also 1x NIB WR-02G wheelie Kumamon tractor No esc inc. Inc. Free UK shipping £100, PayPal gift please

"The SCX-10 is a great truck," An enthusiast once said to me, "But it's a bit dull. I mean, you just point it at something, and it goes over it. With a CC01 you have to pick your lines, you have to think about your route, and that makes it so much more involving on the types of trails you're going to encounter on your everyday walks." I wasn't planning any new projects given the amount of work I've got on, young family and all the other things that go with it, but it feels like years since I last had a functional CC01 and this one came up cheap on ebay from a local seller. I popped over to meet him on a lunchbreak and picked up this beauty. IMG_20171108_125926 by Mad Ax, on Flickr IMG_20171108_125916 by Mad Ax, on Flickr Bone stock apart from a useless set of aluminium shocks that don't fit right - I'll have to find a set of standard shocks among my parts bins or buy something more suitable. Also looks like the rear links have gone floppy - they might have been trimmed for better clearance? Either way they can't take the weight of the rear springs and they've bent. The body has been painted in a rather hideous green which has rubbed through in places, but overall it's had little use and is a good solid basis for a very quick project. I've tried very hard to love the green paint, but I just can't like it; I considered re-painting on the outside for a rough matt-finish look but I figure it'll look really bad if the paint rubs through (which it eventually will, as this will be a runner). So today I ordered some Carson paint remover and some new Tamiya paint, and I stripped all the lights and trim parts off the body ready for cleaning. Got a bit of adhesive foam to clear up but hopefully the paint remover will help there. Also got a bearing set on the way, and will be raiding the parts bin for some alternative wheels and tyres. Got a few spare scale parts been lying around unused for a while so they'll be going on, and I'm sure there's a 3 Racing steering kit in my stash somewhere, along with a high-torque servo and a 55T motor. Maybe even some bushes to shim up the rockety rear axle, and there's always enough spare allthread and tubing to make up some nicer lower links and relocate the rear shock mounts. You can't beat a CC01 for some light trail action, and I've been without one for way too long. This'll make a nice easy-going project to improve bit-by-bit, starting by sorting that flimsy back end. Future plans include cutting the brick and maybe even a front-mounted steering servo and extended front shocks. This thread will stay open for updates here and there as the project progresses and I get back to some light trail action: the sort of thing I'll encounter on my everyday walks.

I have a few projects going on at the moment and I've been meaning to start a build thread for a while. I will post about the cars as I'm working on them, some may take much longer than others and some may never get finished . Here's what I currently have in the fleet, if anyone would like to see or ask a question about a specific car just shout. TT01 - Countersteer drift car. TA02 SW - Built chassis intended as a shelf queen but I messed up the body so need to buy another. Bruiser - Part assembled for almost a year. CC01 - Built chassis (stalled camera car project). TA02 SW - 40th Anniversary still in box. FF03 - Speed run car (*worlds fastest FF03 82Mph) F103 GT - Built chassis with Mugen body currently a shelf queen but intended for speed runs. TRF 419x - Built chassis planned for 17.5T blinky club racing. M05r vII - In progress. TT02 - Stalled speed project, either TT02s conversion or shelf. TB04 Evo IV - Silver can challenge car, current fastest silver can powered Tamiya at (44.8Mph) TRF 418 - Speed run project car going for triple digits and current fastest Tamiya Club Car (85.5Mph) (94.8Mph) I'll start with the M05. I'm working on a Swift body for it and at the decal stage but need to visit my friend and get some more vinyl cut but here it is as of today. It's a V2 R kit with lots of nice Hop Ups included from Tamiya so the only additional parts are carbon towers, hollow carbon gear shaft and 3Racing graphite side trays. I ordered the towers before I built the car and have discovered that the front tower is completely pointless. I just noticed that to fit the 3Racing side trays I need to drill the chassis holes for the mount to sit flush . The pointless front shock tower: The side tray problem: Chassis: It was a nice build overall and I'm very much looking forward to running it. My current plan is to finish the body and then decide on the motor but at the moment I'm thinking about a 2s, 3.5T setup . EDIT *Wild claims relating to having the worlds fastest 2s FF03 are to the best of my knowledge correct at time of posting.

My first CC-01 and what a treat it was to build. Here's pics of start to finish. After this initial post, I intend to follow up with pics/video of it in use when time allows, as well as questions on future mods and changes. Photobucket has pretty much destroyed all of the good CC01 threads, so maybe we can make a new one that covers everything. We'll discuss the goods, the bads, what to mod, and what not to mod. Feel free to post pics of your CC01 mods or just show off your CC01 in general. Pics of my build: I added a 65T RC 4WD Crawler motor. Following the advice of several YT videos, I took out the slack in the rear diff using bushings and a washer. Also, both front and rear diff are locked. I locked the front diff using the method where you add an extra spider gear. I used AW Grease to seal up the rear diff and front gear covers. The only change I have made to the suspension so far is that I added the Stroke Extension Kit. Body is all trimmed up. I may remove the front bumper in the future. I can see how it could get hung up on obstacles, and I also can now see why everyone cuts the front brick. Showing a bit of articulation. I didn't take any pics of the electronics, but I am using the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Waterproof ESC. I have a spare receiver box from a TT02B that I sealed up my receiver in. I'll be smearing a light coat of clear silicone around the seams of the receiver box just to make sure water doesn't get in. The body is painted. While painting it, I also painted a new body for my M06 chassis. Stickers are complete. Some pics from the back yard. My next question pertains to springs/shocks. Would longer dampers give me more height, or would I be better off going with the Tamiya barrel springs for better choice of spring rate?

No mention of this so far? https://tamiyablog.com/2017/08/first-photos-of-tamiya-47361-landfreeder-matte-black-sp-painted-body-cc01/ Image shamelessly stolen from Tamiyablog: What say you? The Landfreeder was always a parts-bin special, but it was one of T's better ones, IMO. A good-looking shell on the popular CC01 chassis, and rarely for a Tamiya scale truck, the drivetrain matches that of the late-80s pickups that the body closely resembles. So does the Matte Black Special offer anything new? Well, I guess only if you don't like painting bodies, or you're in too much of a rush to hit the trails. I've never used Tamiya's matte finish paint on any off-roader before, and I'm not sure how it holds up to scratches and creases. Perhaps this one is better assembled and put on a shelf for posterity? Or given that Limited item number, maybe it's a special treat for those collectors who like owning unopened boxes. Gotta say - I love it. Always liked the Landfreeder, and I often regret using my shell on another project where it didn't look so good. This latest photo makes me wish I'd not only kept it for the CC01 (still in box, unbuilt) but painted it black instead of white. With those wheels and those low-profile tyres, I think it's a stunner. Any thoughts?

Picked up another New Bright Discovery shell few weeks ago and set about stripping, prep and primered....on to colour choice Wasn't sure which way to go until I saw my friends Pajero so choice made Going to keep this pretty scale looking with some new SDI tyres added

Hloo! This post contains my experience/thoughts on: *Brushless 10.5 motor in a CC-01 ...hehehe *Soft spots on the CC-01... what have broken during my bashing... oops *Mud, puddles, grass and Mud flaps (home made) - what difference does it make? ------------- So, I've been using my CC-01 Pajero Rally Sport to play garden rally. A rally car isn't a crawler, so when my hobby store had a sale i naturally purchased a 10.5T brushless(the limit of the TBLE-02s i think) for laughs. And boy, did and do i laugh! Hehe, i can rarely push the pedal to teh metal so to speak, but it actually gives me more satisfaction to hold back a little and push the limits in every corner than just apply full throttle all the time. It takes some skill to maneuver an overpowered beast And of course it sometimes results in death defying spins, rolls, flips and crashes... but my inner kid likes that now and then. This sturdy little thing can take it... most of the time... Since i started my rally career i have broken some parts... but very few.... and this was actually before the 10.5, it was with the stock motor.The first thing to go was the ... uhm.. Skid-plate? i ran full speed into a concrete stone. After two CA-gluing sessions without success, i managed to repair with cable ties so i could play while i waited for the aluminum spare. I also broke the "knuckle arms" (?) where i had to drill new holes for the steering linkage, easy fix. For the long run i got some aluminum spares. I mean, who doesn't like to buy and upgrade stuff? I waterprotected my esc with liquid tape (golly, that was some sticky messy mess, and not really easy to do if you ask me) and got me a water-protected servo and protected my receiver in a removable two-barrier-box super invention. Mud and puddles here i come! Fun fun fun! But i was a bit disappointed by all the muck I had to clean inside afterwards, ....so I made some mud flaps from an inside rubber tube from a car tire (?). The mess was significantly less, but still required some cleaning . Might have to refine... Although most people seem to be using their cc-01 as crawlers or alike... i wholeheartedly recommend it as a full speed insanity rally machine... All in all, the CC-01 is a lovely car to drive like a maniac. And last.. I am not sure it comes through in the text above, but i really really really like the CC-01. It gives great pleasure to build, tinker with and customize - "how can i improve this?". And i just had to get another one, a FJ Cruiser in which i installed lights and stock motor, my kids love to drive it. Who knows, i might even get a third to crawl with UPDATE! So, the driveshaft could not handle the 10,5t... It went to pieces in the obvious places. But the rest is still going strong hehe...

Regretfully I have to sell my Discovery LR3 Chassis is used but maintained, front and rear diffs locked, front brick removed with custom front, 4 link suspension, rear shocks moved inward for better flex, extended prop shaft, hobbyking waterproof servo, Novak terra claw motor. Electrics cased in a sealed box for waterproofing (you will need to reseal, silicon sealer works great) Body is a new bright discovery, custom made headlights, clear windscreen and front windows removed (can fit clear if required) Wheels are 5 spoke tamiya with fastrax kongs I can include a tamiya teu-101bk esc (but would recommend getting a quikrun 1060 as its a great crawler esc) and an orange gr300 2.4ghz rx nice trail rig and will perform better than a standard CC01. for the record if I was keeping it I'd buy a junfac or other extended prop. selling only as I haven't room and just started another build Price £100 inc postage and PayPal post to UK only, no overseas shipping, any questions please PM me

Hello. This is a post about the PS-47 that uses a cc-01 pajero rally sport as a model. If you are interested in how this combination came to be, see bottom. - I was trying to find pictures of how the PS-47 iridescent pink/gold looked on a rc-car on the internets and was a little disappointed at the number of results. I also tried to find recommendations on how to use it, if there were any, about layers and different backings etc, and was yet again disappointed. I had never painted a lexan body with spray paints before. So, here's my contribution: 1. Pajero Rally Sport CC-01 body painted with Tamiya PS-47 Spray paint only. Indoors. The whole can was used. I applied very thin layers multiple times, didn't actually count, but i went out to my man-cave at least 8 times. 2-4. Backing with Tamiya PS-5 Black. Indoors. The whole can was used with thick layers. Almost totally opaque. (last picture depicts my decal-testing) 5-6. Outdoors, but on a cloudy day (decals on). *(hmmm maxed pic limit, will try to add in "reply") ------------- About the combination; In my youth i had a buggy and a touring car that i sold for rock and roll. Now i have two kids, so naturally i wanted to play with rc-cars again using my kids as an excuse . I chose the chassis and they chose the rally car ( i thought they would choose the unimog, but i suspect the kids tv-shows had influence). I brought my eldest, my daughter, to the hobbyshop to pick a colour. -Pink. light pink. -Maybe a darker one? -Ok, this one (bright pink). -Purple? Blue? Silver? Mustard Yellow? Red? Yes, red is nice! -No, pink (now pointing at a neon pink that hurt my retina. She was trying to make a compromise with me though, hehe). -Hmmm. -Pink, or GOOOLD! -Ok, hmmm. Gold might be, uhm, its a rally car.. racing? -Pink then. I had then since long realized my mistake in bringing my daughter to the shop and not deciding the colour beforehand, but i was decided that the car should not be painted bright pink. We had however stood by the paints some time arguing and i wanted her to have some say in the matter. I then remembered the iridescent colours and my experimenting and compromising nature kicked in, so I proposed the PS-47. -No. -But this is pink AND gold? -No. -It is sparkling and shiny... the pink is dull.... She then grabbed the PS-47 and we left the shop with smiles on our faces and excitement in out hearts. At home i got cold feet and wanted to look at pictures before embarking on this colourful journey... return to top... -------------

Just to generate some funds...FREE UK SHIPPING, paypal gift pleaseAll superb condition, no ESC's£85 58581 m-05 Gopro Swift£85 58614 mf-01x Jimny£100 58601 wr-02g Kuma tractor£115 58616 CC-01 lwb VW Amarok£115 58406 DF-01 Porsche Cayenne Or just £400 for all of them, £350 collected (North east wales)They are all listed on ebay as well now

Couple of years ago I got a cc01 with a Range Rover Classic shell, had a few runs and used the chassis for my now G4 discovery. Since then the shell has gathered dust and almost threw it away in a pre Christmas clear out, put in the loft until now. Removed from hibernation this morning and couldn't help thinking....I need another project! so..good lady out for the day and a bit of free time, shell before I begin Bit bruised and a colour I wasn't pleased with. Browsed range rover classic pics and paint shopping tomorrow......

Hello again friends and welcome to my most recent build. I was going to name this one "What Tamiya could have and should have" just because of my disappointment when this model was originally released. OK, so let's start. When Tamiya first released the Volkswagen Amarok, it was on the WT01 chassis, and it was meant to emulate this truck: In my opinion, Tamiya completely missed the mark when they released a 2wd WT01 version of this vehicle: It's not even the right color!

Hello all built quite a few CC01s over the last couple of years and sold a couple that I regret selling. My Disco was build number 2 but been my favourite so far and wanted to do another for over a year, this week I managed to get hold of another new bright shell so another build begins Shell arrived in great nick, only flaw is the fake mud splatter. took all the bits off the shell to prep for painting, few ways to remove the mud but couldn't get hold of the best product so good old fashioned wet and dry to smooth the body down, primered and ready for painting at the weekend this is look I'm aiming for wont post build pics as won't be re inventing the wheel but any questions along the way, I'd look forward to them

I've built a simple rear mount for a spare tire for my Pajero, but since Tamiya only supplies 4 wheels and tires with their kits (how dare they!) I am now one short. Does anyone here have a Pajero MTW tire + wheel left over from an upgrade or something, and is willing to share? Many thanks. (This is one of the front wheels posing for the shot. Note the gangsta-lean of the car.)

Just recently I was considering selling my Cc01 Bowler but have since decided to keep it and spending some money on it. I originally bought it off a mate who wasn't using it. At the time of purchase it was fitted with a Kamtec Bowler shell, GPM steering and rear link kit, knockoff RC4WD tires and powered by a Turnigy 1250kv outrunner controlled by a Yeah racing 35amp esc. Also the rear diff was locked and the front brick cut off. Driving it in that state was fun. The outrunner was as smooth as butter off the line with a light throttle finger. But mash the throttle and it launched hard as well. Since then I've bought Yeah Racing cvds and steering knuckles and a Vaterra 68 Ford F100 shell. This week I'll order some new tires from Hobby King and hopefully get the body mounts sorted. Before: As it sits now: More to come.

This is my first build-thread here, and I hope to pick up a few pointers along the way. I'm mostly an on-road guy, but since I sold my High Lift (too much car, it sat on the shelf far too much) I'd been wanting a car that could go with me on walks. Most people get a dog, I get an RC car. Anyway, since building a CC01 is something you've all seen a million times I'll try to focus on the little touches I'm putting in. No 2 CCs are ever built quite the same, and that's what makes them interesting. Mine will be mostly stock, as I want to get a feeling for how this car works before going overboard on the aftermarket-scene for these off-roaders. While I was waiting for parts to arrive, I started out with the body. I've done exactly one hard body before (my Hilux), but it never quite looked as I had hoped. Between then and now I have built a few plastic model kits, and so I hoped for a better outcome with the Mitsu. I've painted it two-tone, black on silver. It's not exactly a factory color (1:1 Pajero's were all-black, the silver underside was never available with that color), but hey, they're model cars and so we get to paint them as we please. First color to go on, silver (I'm still amazed at how well and smooth the last wet coat went on). This is 3 coats, with 2000 grit wetsanding in between them: The next coat was metallic black. I masked off the silver parts and shot TS40 over it. Metallic is always a bit more difficult to get to lay down nice and smooth, so more wetsanding was required. The masking was removed, and the body was given one final wetsanding with 2000 grit before laying on 3 coats of clear. The end result still isn't as shiny as I'd like it to be, but for a runner it's most satisfactory:

As I promised, here is a small overview of my cars so far. My first ever RC car I bought when I was 12. It was an M02 Alpine A110, and it was well used and abused throughout the years. I raced it in the Eurocup, where it soon found itself hopelessly outclassed against the (then-new) M03s. I parked it in the attic and forgot all about it. However, four years ago, my then-office decided to have a team-building exercise; build and race TT01s against the other departments. Because I was the only one with any clue how to assemble them, I was named chief mechanic and driver. After the big event I took the thing home, and promptly bought a second one. ... I guess you can kinda see how this goes from here... Four years later, and I have fully restored the M02, making it a light-duty runner with the only modern addition of a 2.4Ghz receiver and an ESC. The rest is pure '90s goodness, including an original body set. The TT01 received a Lancia Delta Integrale body set, and a rally interior soon after. The TT01 is still with me, I race it in the Dutch Tamiya Cup wearing a Toyota GT86 body set (the beautiful Lancia is just too fragile for the track).. For the local indoor carpet track I have two cars. I started out running the TT, but soon upgraded to a TRF419, currently in Stock 17.5t trim to comply with local regulations. It's an absolute beast, precise as a scalpel and quick like a fox. The other car I bought to compete with my wife. She runs a Tamiya F1 mutt (F104 with an X1 rear pod and setup, and a TRF102 frontend on foam, and I found the 419 to be outgunned. So I went and got a TRF102. The TRF F1 is still fairly new to me, and I'm still working on setting it up. I run it on rubber instead of foam, which puts me at a huge handling disadvantage compared to her foam-shod car. The 102 has the upper hand in power though, she runs a silver can, and I run a 21.5t brushless in blinky. We also have two DT03 buggies, just to mess around with on the beach, and I'm currently painting up a CC01 Mitsubishi Pajero MTW.

NIB Red Holiday Buggy 2010 - no esc £70 inc. UK shipping NIB DT-03T Aqroshot - no esc £70 inc. UK shipping NIB rere Fire Dragon - no esc £150 inc. UK shipping New built TXT-2 Agrios, box art inc. manual, full ball bearings, Hi torque servo, tamiya dual speed controller and 2 steel 19T pinions £210 inc. UK shipping Pics in my showroom