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hey all, I am definitely a newby here, but I already read a lot on the forum and I am a little bit confused, plus this will be my first time to open the "hood" of an Rc car. I could use your help, so please hit me with tips and advices for the following: So I have a Clod Buster QD, Model number: 46012. (1/14 scale) I'd like to replace the original 8 x AA battery to a more recent one. What type do you reccomed? (voltage, mAh, etc.) Is it a good idea to replace the current brushed motor to a brushless? (benefits, compatibility) Thank you!

Here for sale is a vintage and original Tamiya Clod Buster (58065) which was recently discovered in the loft of a good friend's childhood home. It has sat up there since about 1992. As you can see it has plenty of action but everything is there to allow it to run except the NiCad pack. It has been modified in period which includes the fitting of some LED lights and also converting it to run 8.4v batteries but these changes can be easily reversed. So here's what you are buying: Tamiya Clodbuster (58065) - This runs and drives and I have a short video clip showing this if required. The chassis has been repaired in two places and the bodyshell is badly cracked in the middle. It still has both original motors and speed controller as it came with when new. The tyres are a little flat spotted where it has been standing for 30 years but they aren't cracked. Acoms Techniplus Mk3 handset complete with crystal and original box. The servos and receiver are installed in the car. The faceplate was removed to trim the pots and never re-attached it but it is included. Small selection of Clod Buster spares with a mix of plastic parts and metal parts. Also some spare motor connector wires and multiple small pots of screws and nuts. Original Clod Buster instruction manual, all pages in the manual are complete, although it has come apart a little. (Not shown in photos) Fast charger which hasn't been tested, so assume it doesn't work and consider it a bonus if it does. This would be perfect to either fit a spare bodyshell and run as is, or strip down and restore to "as new". In either case you will to provide a battery for the Clod Buster itself and batteries for the radio gear. Collection only for this from Guildford (GU1) and the price is £200

So, whilst reading a thread on here about how kits are becoming scarce due to production being stopped due to coronavirus, I was looking at my sons Clod Buster and thinking, 'What a great opportunity for Tamiya for to update this old classic a bit. This is our beast: As you can see, it's got TXT-1 wheels on it. What's not also immediately obvious is that it also has TXT-1 stub axles and wheel adapters. These give the wheels a slightly larger track and make the truck more stable and also stop the wheels rubbing on the red axle guards. TXT wheel adapters and stub axles: This wouldn't really be a huge change to add to an updated model (Different axles and a sprue with 4 wheel adapters, plus different wheels), and would make the truck easier to drive and make the transmission a bit more robust. On my original clod buster I can remember breaking the drive lugs off original clod wheels. Tamiya must have noticed the same or they wouldn't have updated the wheel design for the TXT-1, so why not carry that improvement through into the Clod Buster ?? Whilst they're at it, why not revamp the radio tray. The models don't come with MSC's or battery boxes for the radio gear any more, so why not have a simply flat plate with some ribbing underneath for support ? It would make laying out the electronics a lot easier. I also added a mount for an aerial tube for a 2.4GHz radio system, this stubby aerial is short enough that it sticks up inside the cab and doesn't touch the bodywork. (Yes, I also machined a small slot in the radio tray so I could pass the servo and ESC wires neatly underneath the radio tray) This seems much better than having an aerial tube at the back that gets bent every time the truck rolls over (Because it doesn't have wide track axles from the TXT-1......). These aren't really big asks and would make subtle improvements to the design. Even if they wanted to keep the original design of Clod wheel, a new wheel design could be produced with the more robust drive lugs on the back. They can alter the design, because they added the chassis supports for the super clod. What I'm asking for now is a 'super duper' clod. Anyone else agree ?

I’m in Bristol, U.K. I’m after a Clod Buster to restore to be a shelf queen doesnt have to be complete as long as it’s not just a chassis shell not important but would like it with box PM me if you have one or know of one thanks JJ

Download it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3882132 I abandoned my 4S Mod Clod project around 2 years ago because I couldn't get it to drive straight. The axle-brace mounted servo mounts I had were no good because they interfered with the 4-link, and when I re-drilled them to go on the forward transmission case screw holes they flopped around too much and kept bending the screws. I realised after some close inspection that what I needed was a similar mount, but braced against the axle brace screw hole. And here it is! An early prototype here: suffered due to insufficient material around the brace mount, and cracked during drilling Redesigned version fitted perfectly and had curves and bracing to strengthen the rear mount, but the sidewalls were too narrow to drill into for the servo mounting holes

So after much, much debating (let alone pester you guys with inane questions about Clods), I've bought myself a Clod Buster. Yup! I've finally done it. One showed up for sale about an hour away, according to the seller a completely mint shelf queen with a flawless body shell. I'm a bit apprehensive about second-hand RC cars, especially older ones, but the price was right and on the pictures it did look fairly good. Money was exchanged, and the biggest RC car I've ever owned came home with me. Seriously, it towers over everything I own. And I told the wife that I'd be buying no more RC cars this year, so obviously I've bought the biggest one I could find. When I got it home the first thing I did was inspect it. The body was painted well, but lacked detail. That's okay though. I'm not great with painting hard bodies, but I've got a steady hand and a decent supply of paints. So I turned this.... ... into this! What I did to the body: - Straighten out hood scoop decal. (Seriously, how do you even...) - Painted the mat black window trim of the smoker windows - Traced all the shut lines of all the doors (and the funky tilt nose) with a Parma detailing pen. That adds so much depth to the body! - Repainted much of the silver trim around the windows (my hands are clearly a bit steadier than the PO's) - Painted the chrome taillight bezels and added the white reversing lights - Painted the front side lights / parking lights / whatever those things do on a squarebody Chevy. - Added in the black bits in the grill. - Painted the chrome front side marker bezels and added in the orange lights - 'Relocated' the chrome dot indicating the door locks to the correct location (again, how do you... Luckily the old silver paint came off easily) - Replaced a few missing screws here and there. - Stuck the windshield wipers back on, though I hold little hope for their permanence on those little pins. Might have to devise a different solution. The body seems to be closest to an '83-'85 squarebody Chevy C/K, and they came with a body-colored trim panel in the grill. I'm debating painting the one on there red to match the body, but I kinda dig the chrome look. Plus, the lack of Chevy emblem might indicate that it's an aftermarket panel. Meanwhile, the chassis is in bits. I've ordered the metal parts bag from a Super Clod so I have the correct chassis braces, along with a screw bag (because I'm rapidly running out of M3 Tamiya bolts with this truck...) and some other odds and ends like steel pinions. I've also bought a Hobbywing Quicrun 860 (the dual-motor one) and a high-torque servo. There's an MSC in there right now. I'm not going to use that, obviously, but if space permits I might leave it in and connect it to a broken servo, just so it looks the part. I'm planning to go fairly stock with it. It's an '80s monster truck, both in design and 1:1 truck it depicts. I'm not expecting Monster Jam-esque jumps and sky wheelies and such, but rather this slow and deliberate crawl over some old body sets.

Hi you knowledgeable lot. I’m just starting to restore my vintage Hornet, Clod Buster and Subaru Impreza. A lot seems to have changed in the last 25 years since I last did anything with them. The electrics all seem a little shot, and it would seem the thing to have is a ESC. Please could you let me know which one would work on each model, I can’t figure it out. I’m going to run Tamiya brushed motors in all of them (I think). Want to try and keep the cost down as much as possible. please speak in simply terms for a simple person. Many thanks.

Finally got a Clod Buster and have been building it over the last 3 weeks. Right now in it's current incarnation it's pretty much stock except for full ball-bearings. Current Electronics: Hobbywing Quicrun 860 dual brushed, Tamiya Silver Cans DriveTrain: Full Ball-Bearings Future (I've already got parts lined up for future modification of this big boy.) Electronics: 2x Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL60, 2x Tacon 5900kv Brushless Chassis: CPE Time Warp chassis, CPE 4-link kit, CPE rear steer lockout, CPE Dual shock mounts, Level 3 link mounts, Axle guard servo mount (not yet acquired), upgraded steering links (not yet acquired) Suspension: Traxxas Aluminum Big Bore shocks x 8 I'm going to run it for a while in it's stock form until all the upgrade parts come in and I have time to mess with it. Chassis, nothing special Hobbywing Quicrun 860 Dual Brushed Esc Pictures of body Mounted on truck I have not figured out what I want to do with the fog lamps on the roll bar yet. I considered putting the yellow decals on it, but I thought the yellow would clash too much with the paint job. I'll probably end up making my own white blank stickers to put over those fog lamps. I also have a light kit on the way that will be added to this clod as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331919950933 Vintage Tamiya Bigwig Hotshot Sand Scorcher Clodbuster NIB Wheels 50293 50121 NIP Bigwig Moon Craft Wheels P/N 5293 50293 For Models: Bigwig (58057) NIB Sand Scorcher Front Wheel + Tire Set P/N 5121 50121 For Models: Sand Scorcher (58016), Frog (58041), Hornet (58045), Grasshopper (58043) NIP Hotshot / Supershot Gold Plated Wheels P/N 266 50266 For Models: Hotshot (58047), Supershot (58054) NIP Grasshopper II (Super G) Front Day Glow Wheel Set (Yellow) P/N 49022 For Models: Grasshopper II Super G (49501), Grasshopper II Super G (92018), Grasshopper II (58074), Fox (58051), Wild One (58050) NIP Super Hornet Front Day Glow Wheel Set (Orange) P/N 0445495 For Models: Super Hornet (58124), Grasshopper II (58074), Fox (58051), Wild One (58050) NOS Original White Clod Buster Wheels P/N 0555026 For Models: Clod Buster (58065), Bullhead (58089) Price dropped to $120. $20 more than the last set of Moon Crafts alone that sold on ebay went for...

After several years I finally got myself a Clod Buster. That said, I didn’t get the one I wanted, but a Super Clod Buster. I got it in a trade I did. So to bring back my childhood memories of Morten’s Clod Buster I decided to convert the Super Clod Buster into the red Vintage Original looking Clod Buster. I didn’t want to spend to much money on this project since this will not be a shelf queen, this will be a runner, it’s to much fun in this car to put it on a shelf. Here is some pictures of how the car looked like when I got it. So this car did have some nice features such at alu upper and lower bumpers, oil shocks, locked rear steering, thicker steering rods, lights, and a wider track with. The negative for this one is that it came with a parma lexan body and not the original. The first thing I did was to remove the wheel wider’s since this make the tires and wheels wobbel as crazy. That is really a shame, since it looks so good with em on. I started looking for all the read parts and was lucky to find that tamiyaclub member “Madinventor” had em and was willing to sell them to me, so thanks “MadInventor” highly appriciated. I then removed the rear steering lock To my big surprise I had these steering parts in my parts bin from the huge collection i bought back in 2012 The red parts and I had to get a new arm, since one of the demper mounts were broken on the old one. Since I didn’t want to spend to much on this car I got the Parma body shell just as the one the car came with. Got a little help from fellow TC member Crash Cramer, to avoid customs tax Here is some of the steps I did to get it painted.

I got my self a super Clod buster, but the shell is only a lexan shell. So i'm on the lookout for a original Clod Buster shell, so if you have one that you could part with, please let me know. (It's gonna be used on a runner, so it don't have to be in mint condition) Cheers, Odd-Arne

Let's start with a back-story. It begins with a TXT-1. It begins in early 2007, when my love of Tamiya RC was kicking up a gear and I was buying pretty much everything I could get my hands on. A bit of spare cash came my way, and was rapidly swapped for an NIB TXT-1. Around about this time, I also found myself interested in the blossoming scale truck thing, as well as the interesting new sport of crawling. Figuring the TXT-1 was better as a hulking great impressive beast than a dedicated rock crawler, I put in an order to Stella for a Super Clod Buster and a TLT-1. The original plan was to use the Super Clod body on the TLT axles to make a cool-looking scale truck, and use the Clod axles on some UPVC cable trunking to make a super-twisty stick crawler. The clod body got parceled away from place to place and finally made it into Project Ringpull (on those TLT axles) almost exactly 8 years after they came into my possession, but the clod axles never made it onto the stick crawler. And so we must go back to that TXT, and its bizarre habit of lifting a wheel under power. I could never get into that, and I could never drive around it. I guess I just gave up enjoying the TXT. And I wanted more power. So the clod axles got assembled, along with my own special attempt to lock the diffs - two self-tapping screws pressed into the gears before the axle was assembled. Well, it seemed like a good idea at the time... Swivel hubs from the TXT axles were relocated to the Clod axles so I could run TXT wheels, HPI 550 motors were fitted, one re-timed for reverse rotation; a HPI GT speedo was stolen from my 12-cell Wild Dagger, the TXT gearbox was removed, a modded set of four-links was made and two NiMH battery packs were taped to the TXT chassis to power the whole thing. And what a heavy old beast it was. It soon became apparent that it was too short - the top-heavy chassis would wheel-stand and flip on command, but otherwise was impossible to drive. More money was spent on extended bottom links with integral shock mounts, the TXT cantilever shock system was junked in favour of conventional upright shocks. Original ball-ends were replaced with G-made ball-ends, on the basis that they were about as strong a ball-end as money could buy at the time. The result was a heavy, cumbersome, fragile truck that was almost impossible to drive and broke on every outing - usually a lower ball-end. I remember once carrying the whole heavy lump 15 minutes down the road to play at an abandoned BMX track and broke a bottom link after the very first jump, and had to carry it all the way home again. Also, quite predictably, my diff-locking technique royally failed and the screws came out of their homes and started rattling around inside the gearboxes, doing all manner of unseen damage. Not long after this would have been around the time when all my MiMH batteries started to have charging problems, and the 14.4v setup seemed to pull too much out of them. I took a 60 minute drive to a great bashing site to hook up with some other TC members, only to find all of my packs had peaked prematurely (oo-er) and only had a fraction of full charge. That must have been in 2009 or 2010, and was probably the last time it got used. It was shelved (with another broken ball end) and not touched since. I can't say I'd forgotten about the TXT/clod hybrid, because to be honest, even someone who hoards stuff like me can't forget owning an RC that big. I often found myself thinking about a rebuild, but memories of broken rod-ends and dumping packs and desoldering motors always put me off. Somewhere down the line, my project plans were all going wrong. I needed space, and time, to rethink. In mid-2015 I found myself placing an order for some new Traxxas 550 motors - especially since they do one which runs in reverse. And then a used lipo-safe Traxxas ESC came up for sale on here, so that was added to the collection. It appeared that there was a project in the works. February 2016 arrived, and the entry forms for the Iconic Revival were posted online. And I entered a Clod Buster into the monster truck race. So there's a deadline, there's a set of axles, and there's an idea. I've been looking for a good name, and Budget Buster has come to mind. I'm not sure I really like it since it doesn't suit the shell I have planned for this, but it probably fits. The general idea is that I already have most of what I need to make the truck run under its own power, so it'll be a low-budget build. On the other hand, I've been at this for just one day and have already spent a significant amount of cash. After promising myself that I wasn't going to buy any RC stuff in March. And we're only 17 hours into March. This could be interesting. So, here's the ultimate goal: Build a clod-axled racer using, where possible, parts I have in stock or can make myself. TVP chassis should be lightweight to reduce stress on ball-ends and should allow fitment of 4s lipo power for the Traxxas speedo. Batteries to be mounted low on bottom deck, radio and speed on top deck. Soft springs for landing big jumps, low-slung chassis for lower COG. 2 channel 2.4GHz receiver for front steering only. Shell will be something from my parts bin that hasn't had an outing for ages, but might get a bit of a makeover using a technique my wife found online and used for making something totally, totally unrelated - but oh, so cool!! And here's how we're planning to get there: Pull the axles off the TXT chassis Strip axles, remove stupid screws, clean and rebuild gearboxes Reassemble axles using Clod steering hubs and Clod wheels and tyres Fit Traxxas motors Lock out rear steering Repurpose a TVP chassis from parts bin, make custom upper and lower decks from delrin Make new 4-links for an aesthetically-pleasing length Remodel my monster shell and mount low and sleek over the chassis for an evil look Fit Traxxas ESC and radio, go find some wipe open space and have fun A new pair of tyres has already been ordered. I have the original (unused) Clod wheels and tyres, but one tyre was destroyed while I was experimenting with a crazy idea I had for getting traction on rocks. I considered going with the new Proline Destroyers, but since this is supposed to be a budget build and I only need one tyre, not four, buying a pair of Tamiya tyres was much cheaper. I also ordered a bunch more 2.4GHz receivers as I've run out, again! I seem to have far more runners than I ever actually run, but can't ever justify stealing a radio out of anything. How does that work, eh? So where does it begin? Well, today I nipped home from the office at lunchtime, pulled the old TXT/Clod hybrid off the shelf and started stripping off the axles. Here's what the old thing looked like after several years of being cannibalized for parts: Note TXT chassis, TXT wheels, abundance of dirt from last run Axles came off nice and easy Front gearbox disassembled. Those screws came back to haunt me - note one completely missing tooth. New front gears required - so that's one gearbox that won't be reassembled today. The rear had missing teeth on the bevel gears, and since I don't plan to lock this one out yet, there's nothing for it but to replace them too. I could have got away with just one gear set but, since both axles are apart and there's a bit of wear on all the gears from those stupid screws dancing about, and I want this truck to be reliable, I figured I might as well buy two new gear sets and rebuild both gearboxes fully. That's about all I have time for in a lunchbreak, especially as I knocked a pot of screws onto the floor and had to go find them, but the new gears should be with me in a couple of days and it won't take long to get the axles back together. Then I'll onto making that custom chassis. I suppose I need to decide what chassis to use - I have some AX10 plates which should work really well if I make some nice wide decks from Delrin, or I have a K2-3S chassis that's pretty much ready to fit and use right away. The K2-3S will be tougher and allow a more upright shock mounting position, but will be marginally heavier than my AX10 idea and will have a higher COG since I'll need to keep the chassis ends clear of the axles on full compression (or chop down the chassis a little). And that body needs sorting, too... And I have something special lined up for that which I just can't wait to share with y'all

Hello - I'm hoping maybe someone here can give me some pointers here please I'm half way through a clod build - I've never even seen one in the flesh before let alone driven or fixed one, so not sure what I'm up against.... I am up to stage 30 on these instructions: http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/clodbuster.pdf (Stage 20 on the instructions I am using) The issue is one of the axle stays is threaded - when I try to attach it with the BA7 screw, it just does not hold. I just added some blue thread lock and that does not seem to make a difference. It's attached, but not tight like the other three. So a few questions... Does this need to be super tight? Will something else hold this in place better later on? It is easy to swap this part out later in the build / when it is finished and comes loose following a drive? Should I suck it up and buy a replacement and wait for it to arrive? Any suggestions welcome -thanks very much!

Here's a Vintage Clod Buster if anyone is looking for one. http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/872014-nib-vintage-tamiya-clodbuster-1984-a.html#post13957702

Well, i bought this for my 4 year old son a couple of weeks ago. Installed the TEU106BK that came with it and took it for a quick spin yesterday before taking it completely apart and make it "spring ready" as i do not have any experience with these kind of trucks. A couple of shots taken outside: The Clod seems to be in very good shape apart from the lights on the rollbar missing, it is complete and so far i haven't detected any shortcomings. The body is also i very good shape. Paint job could have been better but the 2-tone works somehow and the only damage is a small crack on the lower left side near the rear bumper. Nothing that can't be fixed. the thing is, i know in the mean time that this is the real deal with Chevy logo, rear "Chevrolet" characters and all which makes me automatically want to restore it to its former glory. My son wants it to be blue without decals though and he wants lights in it. The latter i would want to do anyways. In any case, i guess best is to buy another shell and mating parts and keep this one in its current shape and maybe even make it boxart for shelve-life. Also, i noticed that the servo in it is not strong enough. Can anyone recommend a suitable "cheapo" servo to put in that will do the trick?

I've decided I'm not going to use these so they are up for grabs. VERY hard thing to find NIP. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=114827

Good morning everyone; I've been in the hobby for 12 years and had built an RC Guy Gecko-based truck in 2006, but sold it as I never actually ran it. Nostalgia got the better of me last year and I got the Super Clod, disappointed as I was with the monumental price hike. I love the style and handling of the stock truck though I tightened up the steering with bumper-mounted servos mixed in my DX4S. Retro Runner by Lunitic, on Flickr Climb The Hill by Lunitic, on Flickr Super Clod Buster by Lunitic, on Flickr Monstas by Lunitic, on Flickr I do have a question. Does anyone have mod brushed motor suggestions? The stock silver cans are slowing down as expected and I'm unsure even a low wind brushless system can match the low throttle smoothness of brushed motors. Any ideas?