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Found 47 results

  1. Hey guys - I have a Blackfoot 3 set up with dual motors and the performance is a little lackluster so I've been considering trying out a pair of Titan 550s along with either the EVX or EVX-2 ESC (or maybe some other ESC?). I don't want to spend a fortune, so a dual brushless setup is prob not ideal... and it has to run on NiMH. There's plenty of clearance between the top of the chassis and the body to strap on a 2nd battery, so dual batteries shouldn't be an issue. What do you all think?? Would the gearboxes do OK? Anyone tried this setup? Titan 550 Forward Rotation Motor (Part # 3975) Fan Cooled, 21 Turns, 14 Volt Length to End of Armature: 78mm (3.07") Diameter of Can 37mm (1.46") Length of Motor Leads 75mm: (2.96") Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm (0.125") Titan 550 Reverse Rotation Motor (Part # 3975R) Fan Cooled, 21 Turns, 14 Volt Length to End of Armature: 78mm (3.07") Diameter of Can 38mm (1.5") Length of Motor Leads 75mm: (2.96") Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm (0.125") Two (2) 17 Tooth Pinion Gears, 32 Pitch For 3mm Shaft (Part # 3947) Two (2) Set Screws EVX specs: Input Voltage (1.2VDC/cell) ......................................12 cells (14.4 volts DC) Case Width ................................................................................1.75 inches Case Depth ................................................................................2.17 inches Case Height ..............................................................................0.85 inches Weight (w/o heat sinks) ..............................................................3.5 ounces Motor Limit ....................................................19 turns minimum (550 size) On-Resistance–Forward (@Trans) ..................................................0.006 On-Resistance–Reverse (@Trans) ..................................................0.006 Rated Current–Forward ................................................................160 amps Rated Current–Reverse ................................................................160 amps Braking Current ............................................................................320 amps Continuous Current (@100°F amb.)................................................30 Amps Reverse Delay (after Smart Braking) ......................................Zero Seconds BEC Voltage ..............................................................................5.0 volts DC BEC Current ..................................................................................1.5 amps Power Wire ....................................................................................14G / 9” Input Harness ................................................................................26G / 9” Switch Harness ..............................................................................26G / 6” Transistor Type ........................................................................HYPERFET III PWM Frequency..........................................................................1000 Hertz Protection ......................................................................Thermal Shutdown EVX2 specs: 16.8 Volts of power Three Drive Profiles Patent Pending Training Mode Waterproof Design Double Coated Electronics Prevent Water Damage EZ-Set Push Button Setup Thermal Shutdown Protection Microprocessor Controlled Specifications: Input Voltage: 6-14 Cells (7.2 - 16.8V) Case Size (WxDxH): 2.27x2x1.05" Weight (w/o Heatsink): 3.6oz Motor Limit: 540 - 10 turn/550 - 12 turn On Resistance: 0.004 ohm Rated Current: 180 Amps Braking Current: 360 Amps Reverse Delay: None BEC Voltage: 6V DC BEC Current: 2.5 Amps Power Wire: 14awg 3" Input Harness: 26awg 9.5" Motor Wires: 14awg 9" Transistor Type: Mosfet PWM Frequency: 1700 Hertz Protection: Thermal Shutdown
  2. Hey guys - Markbt73 has infected me a bit with enjoying the performance of the Novak Edge/Ballistic setup I now have in my DF-02 runner. Being a relative n00b to brushless I have no intrinsic sense as to whether I'd see similar performance by picking up one of Tamiya's entry-level BL motors and using it with a TBLE-02S I have just sitting NIP in a bin. To be honest I've been pretty underwhelmed by Tamiya's ESC's other than the TEU-101BK and TEU-302BK. All the others have hard-wired limited reverse capability and I can't seem to see any performance improvement between them (am I missing something?). Lucky for me, people think that the 101BK is 'less good' than the 102-105BK, so I regularly buy them whenever I can for anything under $20 NIP. So - basically, I'm skeptical that the TBLE-02S is even worth bothering with brushed or brushless. Except if I go and buy a $60-70 Tamiya BL motor (I'd only go for a matching motor - I like things that match) then I'd be wasting a lot of $ and still seeing lackluster performance. BUT maybe I'm wrong...! Has anyone tried one of these combos and have good things to say about it? Particularly relative to other BL systems you've used?
  3. I have spent the last few weeks building my first (if you exclude a simple Buggy 30 years ago) RC car - a NEO SCORCHER So far - things have gone reasonably smoothly But now - I find Tamiya instructions, somewhat lacking I am stuck with the wiring up of the ESC and Motor The (stock, Tamiya) ESC has three cables from/to it - Coloured Yellow, Blue and Orange The motor has Green and Yellow connections The instructions state ESC should have Red, Orange, Yellow - connected to Yellow/Red on the motor And Black, Blue - connected to Green/Black on the motor So I am guessing that I need to connect Yellow to Yellow and Blue to Green This leaves Orange from the ESC with no connection ? Please help me - before I go insane .........(er) !! Also - is there not supposed to be a tube in the kit to hold the aerial wire up in the air ? Mine does not come with one !! Thanks
  4. So my 14.4v Clod/TXT Hybrid has spent the last few years in pieces after breaking yet more ball ends, and since I've thrown out all my dodgy old NiMH packs I've had nothing to power it anyway, as I don't fancy discharging my faithful lipos and ruining them. I really need a big-wheel truck back in my life again, so this winter will involve rebuilding it from the ground up, junking the overweight TXT chassis in favour of something lean, leaving plenty of space low-down for a 4s lipo (or two 2s lipos). I've got a new set of Traxxas Titan motors to go right in (reverse-timed motor is awesome!) but what I don't have is a lipo-ready speed controller. I don't really want to blow a month's wages on something crazy, I don't need all sorts of advanced features - all I need is dual motor outputs, lipo cutoff and up to 4s power. The standard Traxxas EVX2 is probably perfect but UK prices are high - although I could consider importing from the US, some sellers seem to be breaking them out of new models for less than half UK prices. Anything else worth considering? Thanks
  5. Was fortunate enough to get the "ok" to pick up a Mountain Rider for my birthday. In an attempt to minimize costs (and keep the peace on the homefront), I'd like to use one of the Tamiya ESCs I have laying around, rather than pick up a new unit. I have a TEU-104BK, which the manual specifically states cannot be used. Can someone help explain why this won't work? I also have a TLBE-02S -- any chance this will work? The truck will be a light runner, so springing for a Tekin FXR (seems to be a popular recommendation) is likely overkill. I'm a bit new to this ESC business, as I hopped from MSCs to Nitro, and then dropped out of the hobby for a bit. Thanks!
  6. I am selling most of my brushed motors as they just sit around doing nothing. I have two 19 turn spec motors (perfect for the DT02 mod class or DT03 class if you are planning on doing next years DT02 challenge) £5 each - SOLD Acoms AS17 and one Acoms AS16 servo's £4 each, <<< Only a couple left <<<< 320 amp esc £5 (good for a sport turned) - SOLD my last 2 DT02 chassis covers £6 each A 21 turn Havoc stock motor and a (17 turn modified motor - SOLD) £5 each 2 huntersystems 27 turn fan motors £4 each All packing is free, postage will be at cost (second class recorded)
  7. I am considering getting Tamiya's ESC TEU-302 and according to Tamiya, "This item will run LiPo's but has no LiPo cutoff." I currently have Tamiya 6.6V LF 1100 and 2200 batteries and I'm a bit naïve when get comes to the different types. I also have a Hobby People battery charger that charges many different types but no indication it charges LF batteries and I'm not completely confident I'm choosing the correct setting when charging them. What kind of batteries are Tamiya 6.6V LF batteries? Are they LiPo? (Tamiya's website about these batteries leave a lot to be desired in terms of info.) Does "cutoff" mean exactly what it implies–– the RC car stops running when the batteries reach a certain voltage? So if it doesn't have a "cutoff" the RC car will continue until the batteries are dead, which is bad, right? If the batteries are not LiPo, will the TEU-302 ESC cutoff for Tamiya's LF batteries? I hope I'm making sense. I appreciated any feedback about the ESC and LF batteries. -- Jeff
  8. friends. I have my sand scorcher with the original electronics and a spektrum RX/TX combo. the problem I have right now is the I turn it on, the steering works OK but the motor doesn't move a bit. I use a 4600 MaH 7.2Vt battery. can anybody guide me to were can be the problem. Thanks alot. this is my SC Juan
  9. Hi all, I know the TC team should have some decent suggestions. Has anyone got tried and proven body mods for esc cooling in a Fox. I'm running a brushless set-up and will need to vent the body to allow for cooling. Was going to cut a 30mm hole above the fan in the top body, cover the hole with some fine wire mesh, the kind you'd find on a flour sieve, which was exactly what i planned to use. Then perhaps some 2mm holes on angled towards the rear for heat removal. Any suggestions? Cheers guys and girls.
  10. Hi everyone, So 29 years after my parents purchased a Tamiya Hornet and so very badly wanting a Fox, I finally have one. Its in pretty ordinary shape, could have found a better car I'm sure but it came with the box and most of the original packaging. Now for the rebuild. Its not destined for the shelf, its not going to be rebuilt strictly from original 1985 release parts, probably 58577 bits to be honest. I've purchased a re-re Wild One for my daughter whos shown a love for RC so It will only be a weekend runner. I dont care about breaking stuff, i'l just fix it. So, I've ordered a truck load of new parts, all tree's, parts and screw bag as well as heaps of alloy and upgrade parts such as a Thorpe ball diff. Now for my questions, and bear with me cause its been 30 years since I played with a Tamyia. Lipo, brushless, 2.4ghz radios etc werent around in my time. 1. The upgraded Thorpe diff should handle more power but do I go with a traditional brushed motor or step up to a brushless system? and if so any recommendations on a kv? or If I stick with tradition how may turn motor? What are the better motor esc combos in both options. There's plenty of combos (motor/esc) around the $150 AUD mark but whats worthwhile and what will likely go up in smoke. 2./ A lot of esc's these days are forced cooled, any recommendations of cooling mods given the Fox's closed body design? 3./ To go lipo or not? I guess the power system needs to match the drive system. I'm chasing more torque and power increases and looking for more run-time from whatever system employed. 4./ Is there a decent charger capable of charging multiple battery types? So in closing, I'm looking to build a quick, reliable Fox with decent run-time. Lastly, a quality dependable radio and receiver combo. Thanks in advance guys, I'll post progression photos as parts start to arrive and its rebuilt. Cheer Daniel.
  11. Ok I'm sure some of you have seen the new tamiya standard esc which claims to be brushed and brushless by means of not using the orange lead when using a brushed motor? Is there some kind of clever circuitry or can all brushless esc's be used this way. Just curious. see this link for more info. Same one as will be included in the new DT-03
  12. HI chaps (and ladies?) I have a few restoration projects on the go at the moment and have a few questions i would LOVE some answers too I am restoring an early 80's sand scorcher, a Wild Willy M38 and a bear hawk (basher). Now my question is about (he checks he is in the electronics forum!) Electronics..:HAHA! I have never bought a stand alone servo in my life (having only ever had two real RC cars before as a kid they came assembled by my dad and the electronics came in the Acoms box. I want a recommendation for a good reliable and cheap ESC. These are not going to be raced or run hard, More than likely shelf queens with the occasional run as i get more fun from the build (Odd aint I). and when i say cheap i mean circa €15-€20 would be nice. I also want a good reliable standard steering suitable servo, I have read LOADS of information and recommendations and they all scream for €50-€80 Savox, Spectrum or similar digital wizz bang servos suitable for 100kph racers. I want cheap reliable (branded) servos but i have no experience. I do know i would prefer metal geared IF possible. So recommend away please! Oh and i am in Germany so Available in Europe would be helpful.
  13. These are my items- feel free to bid! mention you're a TC member and I'll give a little discount on some items.. http://www.ebay.com/sch/swingerguy340/m.html?item=151179721950&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
  14. Well, the tinkering continues. I was going through a drawer I have that is completely full of MSC thinking about just dumping the lot on ebay. Let me start by saying i hate those @*&$#!* pieces of @$@. Those @(*%# %$#*@ and shove one @(*$@$@( when a @(*$&@( !@!#@ and a goat! There, sorry I had to say it. Why do I hate them? Let me explain. I restored my monster beetle and thought, like an idiot, dont put an ESC in there, use that cool old Aristocraft setup you've got laying around. So I did. Well, my wife and I were out at the beach on a cliff for a walk. The MB was putting along when some kid on a bike came around a turn and was going right at it. I floored it to get out of the way and to my dismay the ESC got stuck in full throttle. It blasted through a huge puddle, down a storm drain and popped out at the edge of a cliff, only to get stuck on some high grass. 10 more feet and it would have been off the edge of a 300 foot drop. The shrubs that saved it. It was clean as a whistle seconds before. Note the spinning rear tires. Here is that MSC that nearly killed it: Any way, despite my hatred of their useability, they look cool. On top of that, the notches in the Grasshopper and Hornet bodies got me thinking, why not install it for show? Well, cleaned them up and installed them. I had a few broken servos that I was going to recycle but instead put them in the cars For me the added weight helps these cars out. On top of that, these are cars I plan to putt around. I installed it and I think it looks great. I need to post more of the Hornet and Hopper. I did think about using a y-harness and a working servo to actually make them appear that they were working but space becomes a concern as there's already a lot of wires. Plus I wanted to use these broken units and I didnt want the MSC to get all scratched up. Remember, I just wanted to look at them in there but it could be a cool touch. This is the install in my Rockbuster. Sits right above the ESC: This was a test fit, Later I trimmed wires as the plugs for motor and Motor and battery leads go nowhere. Fitted in the car: Resistor in. Fits well right above the ESC. On the grasshopper ReRe, same deal but the speed control is too big to fit under the MSC. Note that the wires simply drop down and end. There was an issue with crystal height. I simply added 2 washers under the MSC to bump it up. I'll take more of the Hopper and get a bunch of the Hornet so you can see the installs. Worked well!
  15. Hi there. Just joined the site and looking to swap my Grasshopper 2 from MSC to ESC with a low speed/power setting that would allow my 5 year old daughter to use it. While it's not the fastest car in the world it's a bit too quick off the mark for her at the moment. Any recommendations would be welcomed.
  16. Hello all, I'm new to R/C and just got my LunchBox yesterday. I am almost done assembling it and ready to order the radio system and battery. I would like to get a decent 2-channel system that I could use on other rc's (if this is possible). I am excited about this project and want to use quality products..What should I get? Battery also..Any help would be appreciated
  17. Hello All! I have been asked to advise a fellow modeller on which brushless motor, ESC and LiPo to buy for his new DB-01 Durga. Trouble is, my experience is limited to brushed motors and NiMH batteries, and I do not own a Durga. So, could those of you who run the things please help us out? I know the Durga has quite a uniquely-shaped shell, and I am not sure what the battery bay looks like, so I am quite keen to hear from Durga owners who can recommend gear that will fit the chassis and shell, as well as provide suitable power. Suggestions? Thanks!
  18. just ordered one of these to go in my 190mm M-04 EL project , http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=28375 will report back on my findings and opinions
  19. Hi folks. I apologize if this topic has been raised elsewhere... but I couldn't find the angle I was curious about. Basically, is there any advantage / disadvantage to using a receiver battery pack (4AA or NiMH) in a setup with an (Tamiya) ESC that HAS BEC? Does anyone have any experience regarding this? Mainly, sometimes I feel like the voltage needs of the motor being pulled from the ESC are disrupting the receiver function, particularly when the battery runs a little low...or when using a powerful motor. I don't do LiPo with my cars and I'd prefer not to daisy chain batteries. So I was toying with the idea of using the old school 4AA setup to keep the receiver fully powered regardless of the ESC/NiMH situation. Or maybe use a NiMH receiver battery instead of the 4AAs. Thoughts? Advice? Ridicule? THANKS! snoop beefy beef
  20. Hi All I am hoping to get my old Sherman running and this seems to be the place to ask a few questions. I have recently recovered this from the loft and dusted it off - it is mainly intact but a few bits are missing - i only want it functional not ultimate scale / original; this project is more for sentimental reasons. Another trip to the loft may turn up some bits but i am not holding out much hope. It has twin motors and a clutch for steering & metal tracks. I am involved in RC flying so the radio part i am fine with along with the battery related stuff too i think; it is the tank specific stuff i am looking for and in particular where i might source bits and bobs from. I plan to use a 7.2v nimh pack - does this sound OK (original was a lead acid i recall) I think it had micro switches for fwd/rev but i want to fit an ESC - any suggestions for suitable reverse capable units? I am missing a few body bits: gun barrel and mount, machine gun for turret and one for the front of the shell - are there any places that do these bits or can i use parts of a more recent model - they look similar from some googling. Thanks in advance for any pointers.
  21. I have been reading a lot on this web site about people being unsure about swtiching to lipo batteries. It is all very safe as long as you use the 'C' rating formula. the formula is this battery capacity x 'C' rating = esc amp draw (using mine as an example) 4.000 x 25 = 100 you need to put a decimal point after the first number of you batteries capacity. 4.0 x 25 = 100 if your esc current drain is greater than what your lipo battery can give you are risking a big 'BANG' as long as you follow this simple formula then all will be ok, for those of you out there that are going to say well mine is fine! well its on your head then think of a lipo battery as a bag (cos it is) when it charges it swells, when it discharges it contracts. ESC's with lipo cut off as you know detects the batteries low voltage point. If the battery is taken past its low voltage point it can be damaged, charge it back up again and after a couple of cycles 'BANG' by using an esc that has a higher current drain than your lipo can give this then in effect is taking too much out of the lipo during its 'burst' (the point when you ask for full power) anyway I hope this all helps and settles a few minds. thanks guys, enjoy.
  22. To fund new projects..... Prices are for paypal gift and inc. UK shipping (overseas shipping, please contact me) To be sent on or near to the 14th July (they are all in storage and obtaining shipping boxes could take a while) See showroom for pics! 1x NIB Rising Fighter (no esc) £55 1x NIB Fast Attack Vehicle (no esc) £105 1x NIB Super Hotshot (no esc) £215 1x New Built Fast Attack Vehicle £140 (£100 without esc and rx) c/w etronix probe 12t esc with traxxas connector and spektrum receiver, built with ball bearings, sport tuned motor and steel pinion 1x New built Rising Fighter £50 comes with tamiya esc (i think) with traxxas connector, built with ball bearings and steel pinion 1x New built Super Hotshot £180 without esc and rx £150 Built with ball bearings and crp front stabilizer and steel pinion with etronix probe escape with traxxas connector and spektrum receiver Used gold wheels and new oval block tyres fitted, kit gold wheels and spike tyres included (unused)
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