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So, this was an idea I had a couple of months back. For my 6x6 Element Enduro hybrid, I bought a Carisma F150 split cab body set because it gave me a nice neat cab option to use on the truck without having to make a panel to close the back off. I've been shuffling the bed portion around the workshop for nearly a year now and I wasn't sure what to do with it, until I hit upon the crazy idea of building a scale trailer. It kind of makes sense that a workshop who build high performance off-road rigs out of rusty old 4x4s would end up with a few beds lying around the junk heap, and what better to do with them than throw them on an old caravan chassis to haul all that trail kit out for some rough camping? It had to wait a while until there was space in the budget, but I purchased this for £30 off the 'bay. It was delivered in under 24 hours. Originally my plan was just to drop the F150 bed over the trailer and stick it on with servo tape, but if you've read the latest updates on my FJ40 thread you'll see that I've chopped the trailer bed up to make a roof box. So, first thing I did was climb up to the storage area and grab this. Originally this was going to be a trayback for the 6x6. Originally I made it too wide, so this is the narrow version. I found the wider plate I cut for it, too: And here's the truck bed

Nothing special here - just another Mad Ax project thread, which some thoughts, musings, insights and ramblings about scalers, GMade, pandemics and life in general. This thread might get way more interesting in the future but right now it's just a handful of photos and a few things that might be worth knowing if you're thinking of getting a scale rig in this sector. Although the BOM is now a few years old and the chassis had been updated, so possibly this thread is too late to be of use to anyone. Well, who cares? Read on. I've been wanting a BOM ever since they came out. For a long time I refused to look at the new Eastern breeds, but when the BOM appeared I immediately fell in love with the chunky body, aggressive half-cage and chunky tyres. I even loved the boxart. In fact I loved both box arts - there are two 'factory' schemes, both red, one with a white panel down the side and one with some white stripes. Last autumn I figured it was time for a new dedicated scale rig. I'd been running my SCX10 G6 edition for years and although it was still running well, it was starting to feel a bit tired. Also my updates to make it into a more scale-looking rig with the Proline Cherokee body had compromised its true climbing potential a little, and to be honest, I was just looking for excuses to buy something new. I really loved the look of the BOM, it seemed to tick every box, I wanted something to be a dedicated rock-climbing truck with loads of articulation and a realistic but aggressively-modified body, and so I bought... An MST CFX-W. OK, it was a bit of an impulse, after hovering my finger over the BIN button for so long, to switch at the very last moment and buy the CFX-W instead. I just happened to find one in Europe and it had the right body too - the J45C Land Cruiser clone. And so last year's scaler build (mostly undertaken as we went into our first winter lockdown) was with the MST. I even got the opportunity to get it muddy during a brief window of non-locked-down-ness before Christmas, before festive excess and emerging variants put is back into a third lockdown. But the BOM never left me alone, I was still in love with its looks, and capable as the MST was, I still wanted to have it in my fleet. I figured it would probably remain a distant dream, something to want but never to have. And then a couple of weeks ago I got a message to tell that my daughter and I had been in contact with a confirmed covid case, and we had to spend 10 days at home in case we were contagious. That meant I needed to take some time off work, but I couldn't go out and enjoy the summer weather or take my daughter anywhere interesting, so I'd have to find plenty of things to keep us occupied at home. Now, I already have plenty of projects, but most of them require the workshop, which isn't really child friendly, at least not for a pre-schooler. If my daughter behaves well during the day then she gets a bit of iPad time before dinner, and building a kit is a great way to spend that time. I can sit next to her, be on hand to help with her games and try to add some context to them, involve her in conversation and show her what I'm working on, but still do something I want to do. So, before I could stop myself, I'd hit the Buy button (with expedited delivery), and Modelsport got busy boxing up my latest purchase. It arrived nice and early on Friday morning, but as chance would have it, my wife also got pinged by the Test & Trace app and had to isolate with us, so she handled the childcare, which freed me up to do some actual paid work, so it would be Saturday before I got around to building the kit.

This is yet another old project from the back of the shelf. I probably started a build thread about this way back when but I expect all my photos were stored in the Bucket of Photos back before I threw my teddies out the pram over the Great Photobucket Ransom, so here it is afresh, courtesy of TCPhotos. This one isn't actually being built by me, it's being built by Adam and Nigel, who run a custom workshop called SCRAPSpeed. Since this one is from the archives, I'll start right at the beginning. It was back on 4th May 2014 - 6 years ago almost to the day, if you can believe that - when I popped over to see my friends Adam and Nigel at their workshop. I happened to notice that had a stripped out 9th gen F150 sitting on the shop floor. I asked if it was for a customer, but Adam shook his head and rolled his eyes at Nigel, who was fabricating something out of aluminium at the back of the shop. "He brought it back from the swap meet last week." He said. "We're going to lift the body and do a bit of off-roading." The shell looked like new, and was in a fresh coat of white primer. Underneath was a fairly standard chassis with some mild steering upgrades and the usual independent front, live rear that you find on these Fords. I took a look at the brackets that Nigel was fabricating. He told me they were so he could 4-link the rear end, apparently a better set-up than stock. I hung around while he got them fitted. I don't know much about these F150s but that sure looks better than what was on there before.

Hello guys, to release me in this section I will introduce you to my mst cmx 1/10 and with the different bodies that I have short battle of tamiya. Mitsubishi Pajero: Can videos be placed in this section? I apologize for my ignorance but I do not want to disturb or that the moderators call my attention.

OK, yet another super-quick Mad Ax parts-bin special. This one's been in the pipeline for a while in a totally different format, but has suddenly morphed into something else. So it began towards the end of last year, when a random search on Ebay turned up a rolling TA03F chassis in reasonable condition. I'd never owned an TA03 of any sort, in fact my experience of Tamiya on-road chassis is fairly limited, so for a bargain price I figured this one was worth an own. I had a bunch of 1:10 on-road shells looking for homes, so I figured it would be a good donor, and since the TA03F was famous for its good-natured drift handling, I thought it would be ideal for getting back into drifting after a very long layoff. It was only when I opened the packaging that I realised something was amiss. It seemed small, too small for a touring car. It wasn't an 03F after all - it was an 03FS. Cool, I thought! An alternative 1:10 wheelbase! Now I can fit something a bit shorter to put some variety into my street car collection. Straight away I went online and started searching for suitable shells. And found absolutely nothing, bar the HPI 106 body. That size is pretty much obsolete, and there's very little out there in terms of drift shells that fits. After a good deal of soul searching, and some razzing around in the house, I eventually discovered a battered old Monster Beetle shell made a perfect fit, apart form the gearbox hanging out the front, and a crazy plan for a Mad Max style drift rig came to mind. I actually got as far as stripping and rebuilding the chassis with full bearings, mounting the shell, fitting electrics, and competing in a local friendly drift night before I decided that, actually, the beetle shell wasn't for me. Not that it wasn't cool, but it just doesn't fit with anything else I have. For a while I considered biting the bullet and going for the 106 shell. It could be made to work, with suitable sponsor decals, if I made it up as a "106 RWD conversion". I get slightly upset putting FWD shells on 4WD or RWD chassis. Then I tried a Blackfoot and a King Blackfoot shell. The wheelbase is actually about right, but the chassis is too wide, and the gearbox doesn't fit under the front bumpers. It could have been made to work, but would have been yet another long-winded custom body job and I've got enough of those on as it is. So I clambered up onto the mezzanine storage level in my garage and pulled out the uncut body from my NIB Landfreeder. I was pretty sure this had to be the same wheelbase as the Blackfeet, but with a more forgiving front end that might just be enough to hide the F's bulbous gearbox. A quick check with the uncut shell and it looked near enough perfect. Twenty minutes with a sharp blade and Amazon Prime Video in the background, and I had myself a cut Bush Devil body. Which fitted nicely over the gearbox, but suddenly seemed too long... No bother - the 03 rear arms are reversible, to slightly extend the wheelbase. The dogbones end up on a sharper angle but still get full suspension travel without binding, so should be good for running. Propped over an inverted chassis, the wheelbase looks good: And with the holes for the rear body posts cut, it all fits rather nicely: So, where does this go next? Well, I didn't drill the front body post holes because the posts aren't really long enough, plus I want to decide exactly how low the shell should sit. Right now the car is wearing some very soft springs on the original shocks, but I've got a set of NIB low-friction dampers for the TA03 which should stiffen it up a lot. I'll probably set the chassis fairly low to the ground, as this will only be used for drifting on smooth floors, and will go for a stiff setup. The wide-offset rears actually poke outside of the arches just a little, so I'll either need to mount the shell high or make sure the suspension doesn't have much travel. Probably the latter, as this truck should look pretty low and mean. And what about that ugly gearbox sticking out the front? Well, the Landfreeder / Bush Devil shell comes with a nice spotlamp / bullbar assembly up front, which should do a good job of making the gearbox. And there's always scope for adding a custom bullbar assembly mounted directly onto the gearbox. Still to do: build and fit new shocks determine ride height source longer body posts cut front post mount holes in shell decide on paintscheme clean, mask and paint shell fit shell hardware go play watch this space...

I've been delaying posting this until I was sure I had everything figured out and wasn't going to be halted due to cost or loss of interest. So, after my Bad Influence (Stag) Jugg/TXT build, I had a bunch of reasonably viable parts left over: Then another thread reminded me of a project I'd wanted to do before, but had abandoned due to lack of skill, so off it was to eBay - and with the help of waterbok nabbing some parts from Germany when my address was deemed invalid I ended up with this haul: I decided to go with Jugg2 axles instead of RC4WD Blackwells because they had the input offset I'd need to reduce driveshaft angle, it was cheaper for a matching pair, and I wouldn't have to purchase adapters to fit the Clod wheels. Also, I'm going to use the stock Jugg servo saver setup with a single servo for 4wheel steer (which may be changed depending on how many times I roll the truck). Yes, those are alloy Jugg E parts and a leaf spring bag. We're going old school. Then, it was off to Rhino - quite a bit of steam coming out my ears getting all the measurements right and double checking positioning but then I got this: Currently, according to Shapeways it'll be shipped on Mar 8, and then I'll be able to test fit things and see how wrong I got everything. Can anyone guess what the final product is supposed to look like? (there's a hint in the title of the thread)

i'm not sure whether or not it's a good deal, but my spidey sense makes me think it is and that a NIP blue driver/tailgate set and NIP clear window set are hard to find these days. i don't want 'em and i don't benefit or anything... just wanted to pass along the info... http://www.johnshobb...&product_id=268 http://www.johnshobb...&product_id=199

Well those to topics got me thinking about my former plow truck. It was built on a cut up tl01 chassis with a blackfoot body and home built aluminum plow. I always liked it and had good feedback but in order to help out my nephew I dismantled it and gave him the body and plow gear. i still have the chassis such as it is and am thinking of restoring it back into a car again. Anyhow back to the present I also have my first scale project a modified TA02 with a blackfooot body as well. As it was snowing yesterday and my wife was away I made a pot of coffee and started digging through some of my scrap and found enough aluminum to recreate another plow. While its not complete yet i made pretty good progress. Plow blade made, split a piece of 1" aluminum tube and opened it up. I used some other odds and ends to make the brackets to mount it to the truck. i haven't built any up right s to mount lights as I don't have any yet. Servo mounted for the lift need to build the linkage this morning and mount some electrics maybe even some paint. Jay origional plow truck new plow parts and pieces progress as of this morning

Hi, just won myself an F150 Ranger on Ebay but it looks like it may be missing the driver figure. So if it is missing is there an easy replacement? I can find the drivers for the Brat fairly easily and was wondering if that driver is the same, Or should I just try to get a Blackfoot or original F150 driver? Don't know how easy those are to get though.....