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Hello, I recently bought a TD2 but, the hitec hs-77bb low profile servo bought to use in it still appears to be a little too big to fit. What recommendations do you have for a low profile servo that will work in the TD2? I am currently looking at using the TSU-06 but would love some more suggestions. If possible I would also like to keep the price under $70. thank you! -Bethor

Man I've been here frequently... Anyway! I got some 60mm shocks and the Tamiya hard tuned spring kit for my TT-02 that I'm building for rally and was wondering which density springs to use where? I was thinking medium in the front and hard in the back but I really don't know... Does anyone know what should go where?

Hello everyone, so i'm having some issues with a tamiya brushless combo, consisting out of a TBLM-01S motor, TBLE-04SR esc, TRU-07 reciever and TTU-07 sender. It started acting up after i soldered the on/off switch internally and soldered the ESC's wires directly to the motor which i have done in the past with electronics from other brands succesfully. When you power it up everything seems to work correctly, you can give it 100% throttle no issues, however as soon as you touch the brakes or release the throttle it just stops really abruptly, beeps, and a red/orange light flickers briefly. After that everything works again, but only for like halve a second. After that it beeps and stops as soon as you hit the throttle or reverse. After a while the red led starts flickering fast indicating that somethings wrong/broken/overheating, or the orange led starts flickering which would indicate that the sensor cable is broken/disconnected(?), or the green light starts flickering, no idea what that would mean. So i'm thinking i damaged something in the esc whilst shorting the power button internally, or the motor got too hot whilst soldering, however if anyone has some ideas of what i could still try i'd love to hear it. I already tried changing some of the settings, charged the batteries, and changed the sensor cable but to no avail.

So i recently build a Avante and have been driving it arround the house but the ball-ends just keep failing. When building the kit they already seemed to have too much play, and pinching them in the press only does so much. Are there any replacements that are a direct fit? Or could this be covered under warranty?

Hey guys, new R/C builder here. Been wanting an R/C car for a while now as it's been a decade or so since I had anything other than a late-eighties Tyco toy. Just built my Super Hotshot and I'm looking at getting some upgrades, namely a BZ motor and U-joint axles. I've got the BZ motor ordered but I can't figure out which axles I need. I'm also looking for a heatsink (w/ or w/o fans) for the motor. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

I was driving my TT-02D R33 Skyline today and it suddenly stopped turning. Turns out the servo hole the screw goes into got stripped and now needs replaced. But I've decided to bite the bullet and rebuild the whole thing but I want aluminum parts and I want mostly all of it aluminium. I have no idea what to get. I know there is a rwd conversion but I heard it's bad for traction. Can anyone please help me.

So, my bud found an old Jada Mach 5 Rc car still in the box and kinda wants an idea on what it's worth. it's got a 2007 copyright on it. I've tried to find out info on this but I don't see is anywhere besides 1 listing on Ebay @ $600. no completed sales, nothing................. You guys know way more about this then me and may have come across one before. Does 600 sound right? or is it way over priced at that? Thanks in advance - Trowa

This is the fake one, not the SkyRC. So i feel like a total dumbo when it comes to batteries and charging - back in the day i had a TYCO 'fast charge' 4 hour charger plug which i connected to my then 9.6v NiCD batteries. I knew how long to charge them as it was written on the plug, and never had any problems. That was circa 1995! Now its Lipo this, nimh that...and i dont know how long im supposed to charge anything, if im overdoing it or what. So i have bought the imax b6 lipro balance charger for £20 off amazon. No plug. I found the plug that powers my external fan assisted hard drive provides an output of 12v at 1.5A (pic below) so i plugged it in and the charger powered up. So far so good. I go through the instruction manual and think im smart enough to set it up and set my parameters up as follows for my 1400mah 7.2v NiMH Carisma Sports Pack battery - User set program> enter>toggle to NiMH sensitivity>D.Peak Default (which the manual says is 7mV/Cell)> USB/ Temp select>Temp Cut-Off 80C>Waste Time> [DCHG>CHG] 10min>Safety Timer> ON 75min> Capacity Cut-off> ON 1400mAh>Input power Low>Cut-Off 10.0V> Back out of that menu > program select NiMH BATT>enter>NiMH Charge Man>Current 1.4A connect my battery up using the tamiya connector, turn on the mains and press and hold the enter button until i hear the beep and it starts to charge. No the battery was definitely low to empty as i had been using it that day. Once it does the battery check and starts charging, the display shows that the battery is like 8.5v from the start, and when it finished charging the battery it said CHG 1:12 and the number next to it was 1139 and the final figure was 9.5V It was red hot to touch too, i couldn't touch it for a good 45min. What have i done wrong? Also good to know is that the battery did come with a car i bought so i dont know how old it is. I then went to charge my brand new EnrichPower 3000mAH 7.2v battery using the same method but changing the capacity cut-off to 3000mAH and NiMH Charge to 3.0A. Same thing, it started to go really hot and i was worried so i turned it off after about 15mins. Help!

Hello, This is my first post here. If anyone could advice me on how I may achieve the paint shown below (mercedes AMG). I have been suggested tamiya smoke, translucent green, gunmetal, brown/copper(cannot find brown), then finally backed by black. This makes sense but I not sure in what order I should apply them. I have candy red as an alternative and have seen people do it but I would like to take my chance with this if I can get some good advice. From the images, if the amg is unlikely then a darker and more glossy finish of the JZX 100 mark || would be great perhaps! Thank you!

I have searched and cannot find... What are you guys using for crush sleeves, the spacer which sits between the two bearings in each wheel hub, are there universal spacers that can accommodate any gap? I want to clamp down on my wheels when doing them up with shims but realise my bearing won’t last long this way. Apologies for an extra post from me, I’ll be out of your hair soon! Cheers, Al

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I'm just getting back in to the RC world as an adult. We just recently got two of the kids off-road trucks and after having to repair them a few times my tinkering fire was stoked. I have an extreme love for road racing in general, so decided I would get a little project for myself. I picked up a TT02R chassis kit and that is where I am at. I am literally starting from scratch with this. I've been reading/researching and getting great information, but the more I'm doing the farther down the rabbit hole I'm going and finding myself getting a bit more confused. I have a couple questions that I'm hoping can get answered here...or at least start me down the right path that I can follow up on. Motor? I'm pretty sure I want to go brushless, but not sure what size would be too much for this chassis. I would like it to be fast, but I also don't want to have to be constantly replacing parts because the motor is too much for the build. I had come across the Speed Passion Reventon R combo reviews a few places and it appears to be a good combo (based on user reviews). But very much open to recommendations at suggestions. Servo? I honestly haven't done much research on this component yet as I've been stuck on the motor/esc. Transmitter/Receiver? I haven't done much research in to this yet either. Although I keep seeing Futaba mentioned as being good???? Those are the main things that I am honestly stuck on and keep going in circles. Body, tires extras I can probably narrow down, although the choices seem to be very vast. I have a couple of tracks out here, so my main objective with this is to make it as fast as possible, without sacrificing the integrity of the chassis (too much), handle/corner well and enjoy myself while doing it. I'm not really interested in any serious racing, or clubs or anything at the moment. That could possibly be down the road, but right now I want to learn, research, tinker, upgrade, test and get accustomed to this style of RC'n. Thanks in advance for any advice, suggestions or roasts because I'm a newbie with basic questions haha. Looking forward to this build and future Tamiya builds.

Evening folks. I have built many cars over the years- and was an avid racer in the 80s. I have 4 Tamiya hornets, 3 Kyosho Ultima 2s, an original Ultima, a Lunchbox and now a re-re Frog that is DRIVING ME CRAZY. I always wanted a Frog as a kid so decided to pull the trigger on one as an adult. Everything seemed to go together great. On the first drive (pavement) it was ALL OVER THE PLACE. Stability was horrible. It was almost like driving without the steering rods connected. I have searched forum after forum and went over the build diagrams ten times. I can't figure out what is wrong. I can't imagine this is normal for a Frog! Is it? I have spent hours looking closely at photos from the web of many different builds. The front end looks exactly like everyone else! Any suggestions? I have bearings throughout and used the Tamiya RC Frog 2005 Assem Univ. Shaft kit to prevent the dog bones from popping out. Any suggestions? Help!

Hi Guys, I have some steering parts that I want to use on my Blitzer Stadium but I don't have the aluminium mount (see pictures). If you know the number or code of this part (to fix the arms at the chassis) please comment. It will be really appreciated. Tks Glob356

Good day lads. I have used DMC shock oil in my clear blue Tamiya plastic dampers, combined with TRF O-rings #42214 and TRF rods #53575, and Team Associated Green Slime, but the oil just keeps leaking out under compression. What could be the cause? The rods are the same size as the standart ones, the O-rings aren't tight around them, but the stock red ones require an awful lot of force to get any compression. Are the o-rings not fit for the oil? There are TRF rings made speficalyy for natural oils, I don't know whether this oil is natural or synthetic, though. Should I go for complete TRF dampers? Thanks for your help.

Hi, I am in the UK and I have an old Futaba 4EX 4 channel Transmitter I am running my Tamiya Ford F350 Hi Lift with. The problem I have is it came with an old 1000mah 8 in a row AA NiCad battery pack with a JR/HiTech connector (I think), which now is only lasting 30 minutes or so. I have seen suitable larger mah packs for sale but wondered if I can I use a lipo pack without any modification to the transmitter. Obviously I would have to consider the size of the pack. Any help would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks

Rebuilding my TR15T engine and forgotten what screws are used to bolt the heatsink the the engine block. Does anyone know what these are? Thanks for your help

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=cs&u=http://deti.bazos.cz/inzerat/59079233/RC-Graupner-Pinto-2-WD-2x.php&prev=search Hi I need the help of any Czech (they are based in Prague) based tamiyaclub subscribers to help me purchase these 2 buggies and ship them to uk for me thanks in advance

Hi all, I'm returning to a fun hobby and are in the middle of building a re-issue Wild One and have a couple of questions that I hope someone out there can help me with: 1) I have some aftermarket wheels that have a large, six-sided hub pattern, so I ordered some wheel adapters based on some information provided on another forum. While the adapters for the rear worked great, the front are not correct. The problem is that the front axles are just spindles and do not have an option for the small metal tube that runs through the rear axle - which the adapters use to lock onto the axle. Is it supposed to be like that for the front wheels? Or am I just supposed to bolt up the rims to the existing spindles? 2) What is the best method to trim the edges from the front bumper? As it looks like my aftermarket wheels are going to rub.... 3) I have a ESC and 10T 3500 brushless engine ( I think it was the "EZ-RUN" set). Is a 3S lipo a good match for that ESC/engine combination? 4) Is there any way to not use the 4xAA battery pack (which I believe powers the receiver) and still have it function correctly? 5) There is a small switch in the ESC that is connected by a thin wire - what is that for? Is there a way to override that and have it run on the receiver power? Any help would be much appreciated and I'll be sure to post pics of the build when it's done (att. is a mock up so far)! Thanks in advance!

I think there should be a new Section on the forum. If someone has some fantastic painting skills and is offering to paint figures or body shells for a fee. Or builds shocks, can do soldering, or ....... you get my drift. I know a lot of people do not have the time or the skills for something they want done but are happy to pay someone to do it for them. What do you think ??

Hi all. Feel free to direct this thread to another place if it's in the wrong location Anyways, I am planning to buy the JunFac Tamiya Frog Aluminium Front Shock Towers set (found here: http://www.fusionhob...rs-p/j20221.htm). However, I have found it hard to find the name/make of any shocks that will fit them. I believe the length recommened for them is 60/62mm, but I not sure about what size the connectors on each of the shocks have to be to match the size of hole on the shock towers. I have found these Absima shocks, which are 62mm, and come with optional ends: http://www.modelspor...products/369640 . Does anyone know if they will fit? If not, then could an owner of this suspension kit direct me to the shocks they've used? Preferably, the price needs to be around £20 or less for 2, although if they do cost more then I'd still like to see Thanks in advance, Mack