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The question is: what models share the same chassis at the Lunchbox and Midnight Pumpkin? I think the Montero(?) does, but is there anything else? Also the chrome Midnight Pumpkin, what's the best way to protect the finish? Has anyone ever spray lacquered it? The reason I ask, I am slowly pulling out my rc stuff that I have collected over the last 10 years or so and trying to organise it. Today's job was to sort my Lunchbox and Hornet parts, which I'd kinda lumped together as they share some of the same parts. So this is what I have: There is one complete Grasshopper A damage Grasshopper body which I will attempt to repair, and plus I have the parts for a rolling chassis. There are 2 complete Hornets (1 original and one Re Re) and enough parts to make 1 more complete car and 1 to just make a complete chassis which I might revert one back to a Sand Scorcher body onto the hornet chassis. The chassis has been modified anyway. 2 complete lunchbox chassis, one will be for a chrome Midnight Pumpkin body I got for Christmas, I think around 2012. And over the years I collected bits and pieces to make a chassis to go with it, and pretty much ended with this 1 lunchbox chassis which I think I can make from the leftover hornet parts. So that means I have two lunchbox rolling chassis that will need bodies for. I'm hoping for something different, so send me you suggestions! Now for the pics, these are all the parts I got together. Midnight Pumpkin body, I want to build and drive but I don't want to scratch it Any suggestion on maybe protecting it with a spray lacquer or other ideas? And since I'll have plenty of time, I might as well have a go at fixing this. Once I weld what is there back together, its only one rear corner that is missing.

I will be moving soon, so I’ll have a better workspace, what are some essential mods to do? I already have aluminum body mounts, also, how do I stop the front wheels rubbing on the front bumper? Thanks!

I love when new builds come in the mail!

Uhhh, is there an upgrade? What should I do?

Sooo, when I jump my lunchbox rere up curbs, the front bumper hits the front wheels, so I took it off. Anyone else having this issue? When I have a chance I’m probably gonna dremel some of the corner off, is that a good idea? TIA!

So I was doing dumb things in my lunchbox, and then the gearbox started sticking, like it didn’t want to move in one place, and it made a clicking kind of noise, I took the gearbox apart, and didn’t see anything. Anyone know what’s wrong?

Was is dumb to put this: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/112851, and this: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/101279 in my lunchbox? I also duct taped a Lipo in temporarily until I can get a bigger battery door, it’s so much fun! But will it damage anything with literally no upgrades other than the aluminum body mounts?

Ok, so I’ve seen people say it is possible, but I can’t seem to find a video of it, can you please share one? And if it’s lost in a general bashing video, please include the timestamp, thanks!

Hi all, New to builds, having had my Dad make me a Super Blackfoot as a kid. My cousin had a LB, and I always loved how mental it was to drive😂 My missus bought me one as a gift back in February and having put it all together, and immediately crashing it, I decided I wanted to look at making it fun but better to drive. To date I’ve installed a Tamiya Sports Tuned motor, metal bearings, and this evening I’ve installed oil filled shocks. Having just taken it out, it seems to sit better under load. I will say it pulls a touch to the left, and I’m almost certain that the wheels are spinning inside the tyres. So my questions are the following: How can I make the car better than stock beyond those adjustments? Should I have replaced the pinion with the motor upgrade? Foam in the tyres or not bother? What’s the best battery setup to choose? Where can I get a transmission strut brace in the UK, as I don’t want to do the 5th shock mod? Sanding down the damage on the body for re-spraying, what’s the best process? Sorry, lots of questions but I’m very new to this. Kind Regards, Carl

Hey all, I've enjoyed reading the many threads in the forum. This body has a copyright 1987 and an arrow pointing to PS (styrene), not ABS. I'd like some advise as to what to do with this body. On the outer shell, it appears that there is that "chrome" top paint that's sold that isn't chrome at all. And some really rough, to the touch, green paint on the inside. It looks like marking paint to me. I did some wet sanding on the outer shell and it's very smooth. My thoughts are to get the outer shell wet sanded smooth a bit more, not touch the inside, and prime it inside and out for painting. I've read about Easy-off and other chemicals. I'd hate to ruin this thing. Thanks for the input.

Always wanted a Lunch Box when I was younger, and I finally got one. For being my cheapest kit... I've seemed to have spent the most on it. Crazy thing is that I'm contemplating getting another one later on! Anyway here it is. Still deciding what decals, extra paint work I want to do to the body, but this is pretty much it. As it stands right now With lights on! FX10 Mod Uncompressed.... Compressed... Used a suspension arm piece from a WT-01N kit to mount the bottom of the shock. (I bought the longer WT-01 arms so I didn't use these) Electronics Hobbywing Justock XR10 ESC, Speed Passion v3 13.5T Brushless, Sanwa RX-371W Receiver, Savox 254mg steering servo, Generic lighting kit Chassis Stiffening Upper shock tower brace Rear deck brace Lower rear shock brace Forgot to add that it's also got a full ball bearing kit.

Has anyone tried comparing the Lunchbox 3rd Shock versus the Ampro Transmission Brace? I'm trying to decide which is the better option. The Ampro Transmission Brace is 3D printed through Shapeways, and can be seen here: http://shpws.me/MVjN I'm considering the Ampro brace because it's cheaper and requires less modification. The creators also say it works better. My concern is that 3D printed materials are typically weaker than other plastics. Related to that, there's actually a free version I could print on our Makerbot, available through Thingiverse, but I'm pretty certain that the Makerbot prints are weaker than Shapeways, which have a much higher melting temperature. By the way, this is my first Lunchbox. I built it just a few weeks ago and love it. So far I've only done basic mods / hop-ups, like the bearings and adjusting the front suspension to level out the wheels. I'm still using the standard friction shocks.

So I finally got round to installing the sports tuned motor in my lunchbox which works fine but now with the extra power I have has made the tyres start spinning, so should I glue them in place? If so any specific glue for this, how much to use etc. I’ve read that the small holes in the wheels are for putting the glue in, is this correct. Any help or tips appreciated on this, thanks.

I've got a standard ESC (TEU105BK) and a standard motor (RC-540) in my Lunchbox. I was thinking of giving it a little more speed by getting the Sport tuned RS-540 motor. I don't want to spend too much and go brushless and go too fast that it becomes undriveable, I just want a big more speed without breaking the bank. My question is would the standard ESC be ok to run the sport tuned motor? and if I up the speed should I be upgrading anything else on the car. I have added hight quality ball bearing when I built it. I'm new to RC so not very clued up with compatibility of motors and ESC's! Any help greatly appreciated. If there is an alternative motor to the sport tuned RS-540 that doesn't need a new ESC please let me know. Thanks

Hi guys, need some help please, I want to fit hex wheels to a Lunchbox, whatever parts would suit the conversion. regards to all fellow modellers

Took my lunchbox out in the garden tonight for its first run. Although I scuffed the paint job already! Grrr I noticed that when it went from a standing start to full throttle the gears sounded like they were grinding or not engaging correctly. Sounds ok once it’s moving and seems to drive fine, it’s just the initial full throttle burst at the beginning that doesn’t sound right. It doesn’t make this sound if I go full throttle with the wheels off the ground, only when they are on the ground. No issues in reverse. Should I strip down the gear box and see if there is anything odd before I do any major damage? If so what should I be looking for? Just a thought, could this be due to too much grease on the gears? I’m a newbie so any help greatly appreciated. I’ve watched vids on YouTube of people’s lunchbox going from a standing start to full throttle and I don’t hear what I’m hearing. Bit disappointed that I’ve hit issues already as I’ve been looking forward to having some fun with it since I got it for Xmas and it looks like it’s gonna be back in the garage for a service already!

We had some EPIC fun

Hey folks, I have been doing some work on my CW01's lately, trying to ignore my hatred of Project Hor-Cha-Hop. I made some Midnight Pumpkin body mounts and a brace for the transmission to stop the irritating slap of the trans under torquing. My current design has to do with my double wishbone front end upgrade on the Hornet. I am working on an updated version akin to a Grasshopper II where the shock is sunk deep into the arm. This will allow you to use a 50mm touring car shock. However, this "sunken" shock mount setup will not work on a CW01, nor will it work if you want to keep the friction shocks on a Hornet/Hopper. So I made one that leverages the Tamiya steel spring mount. Tested on the Hornet and it is perfect. I installed in on the CW01 and there was an unexpected change; wheel track. The front of the CW01 is now 15-20mm wider than stock. Now this is very desirable if you want to run and jump the CW01's hard, it makes them much more stable. If I shorten the arm by 10mm, it will do a few bad things. 1. The upright will come closer to the shock mount and hit the shock. This will require moving the shock more inboard. 2. The shock needs to move inboard. Ignoring the above issue, narrowing the track will result in forcing the shock to move proportionally to the shortening. this now reduces the lever arm on the suspension arm reducing travel of the shock (not the wheel) and also inadvertantly raising the front end. I think I am correct in beleiving that widening the front end is a better route since anyone that would install this (like me on my race truck) wants more stability. Plus, the drawbacks to narrowing the front end are seriously bad. Love to hear some input. Here is where the testing is (had to borrow SuperFly's upright): The widened track from the front From above (sorry, black floor) Also, the upper link will mount to a part that will be wedged by the servo with no screws. This means that this mod will require zero holes or alterations to your CW01. I hate drilling and cutting on stuff I paid for. The MP Mounts are working great on a side note. I change the direction of the pin holes on t he front mounts and made a nice base for the rear body to sit on. Fits perfect on stock body with no mods needed. The trans brace has made the trucks so much less annoying too. Simple little part and easy to install. 2 holes, sorry. There are also Wheelie bar wheels and Lunchbox body mounts that come in all the shapeways colors. I think that's all for now. All that stuff is in the store under CW01 or MP/LB depending on how specific it is. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/ampro

Hi all, I would like my *lexan* Luncbox shell to be the same shade of yellow as the ABS plastic one. However, as far as I can tell, the shade of yellow that Tamiya uses for the ABS plastic is not available for lexan (from Tamiya). The Tamiya shades of yellow I've tried (camel, basic) were very disappointing. Camel is way too orange, and basic yellow is far too bright. Does anyone know of a lexan yellow that comes close to the Lunchbox yellow? From any manufacturer? Thanks!

As the title suggests what lexen bodies have you fitted or seen fitted to your wheelie truck? Any pics? interested in all ideas not just truck bodies.

Got an awesome deal on a new kit with damaged box ($57). Had to pick it up for my son. I've got my own Lunchbox with a bunch of suspension and chassis mods running 13.5T brushless power. For his, I'm keeping everything bone stock for now as far as performance mods go. This is one of the 3 projects that was holding me up from other builds because of the lack of time to work on the body. (Still not actually done, few more decals to print up)

Does anyone have a set of Rear Hubs and Drive adaptors (dont need the tires or the fronts) that is surplus to requirements that they can sell to me at a bad price please?

I am making a set of body adaptors to mount Lunchbox / VW mini bus body types onto the GF-01 chassis. Had Paul form Berzerk RC in Australia made these. Will ipdate once I receive them & thebody posts.

Hi All So I wanted to get the ampro device but its too much for postage, and my LB is a basher just enjoy bouncing around the parks etc etc I do how ever want to sort the handling out a bit without spending loads, so I was thinking about doing a bit of surgery and fitting a large cable tie with enough slack to keep articulation but stop the gearbox slapping. Would put this in the same place as the ampro thing, will post up some pics later.