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Found 56 results

  1. Always wanted a Lunch Box when I was younger, and I finally got one. For being my cheapest kit... I've seemed to have spent the most on it. Crazy thing is that I'm contemplating getting another one later on! Anyway here it is. Still deciding what decals, extra paint work I want to do to the body, but this is pretty much it. As it stands right now With lights on! FX10 Mod Uncompressed.... Compressed... Used a suspension arm piece from a WT-01N kit to mount the bottom of the shock. (I bought the longer WT-01 arms so I didn't use these) Electronics Hobbywing Justock XR10 ESC, Speed Passion v3 13.5T Brushless, Sanwa RX-371W Receiver, Savox 254mg steering servo, Generic lighting kit Chassis Stiffening Upper shock tower brace Rear deck brace Lower rear shock brace Forgot to add that it's also got a full ball bearing kit.
  2. Has anyone tried comparing the Lunchbox 3rd Shock versus the Ampro Transmission Brace? I'm trying to decide which is the better option. The Ampro Transmission Brace is 3D printed through Shapeways, and can be seen here: http://shpws.me/MVjN I'm considering the Ampro brace because it's cheaper and requires less modification. The creators also say it works better. My concern is that 3D printed materials are typically weaker than other plastics. Related to that, there's actually a free version I could print on our Makerbot, available through Thingiverse, but I'm pretty certain that the Makerbot prints are weaker than Shapeways, which have a much higher melting temperature. By the way, this is my first Lunchbox. I built it just a few weeks ago and love it. So far I've only done basic mods / hop-ups, like the bearings and adjusting the front suspension to level out the wheels. I'm still using the standard friction shocks.
  3. So I finally got round to installing the sports tuned motor in my lunchbox which works fine but now with the extra power I have has made the tyres start spinning, so should I glue them in place? If so any specific glue for this, how much to use etc. I’ve read that the small holes in the wheels are for putting the glue in, is this correct. Any help or tips appreciated on this, thanks.
  4. I've got a standard ESC (TEU105BK) and a standard motor (RC-540) in my Lunchbox. I was thinking of giving it a little more speed by getting the Sport tuned RS-540 motor. I don't want to spend too much and go brushless and go too fast that it becomes undriveable, I just want a big more speed without breaking the bank. My question is would the standard ESC be ok to run the sport tuned motor? and if I up the speed should I be upgrading anything else on the car. I have added hight quality ball bearing when I built it. I'm new to RC so not very clued up with compatibility of motors and ESC's! Any help greatly appreciated. If there is an alternative motor to the sport tuned RS-540 that doesn't need a new ESC please let me know. Thanks
  5. Hi guys, need some help please, I want to fit hex wheels to a Lunchbox, whatever parts would suit the conversion. regards to all fellow modellers
  6. Took my lunchbox out in the garden tonight for its first run. Although I scuffed the paint job already! Grrr I noticed that when it went from a standing start to full throttle the gears sounded like they were grinding or not engaging correctly. Sounds ok once it’s moving and seems to drive fine, it’s just the initial full throttle burst at the beginning that doesn’t sound right. It doesn’t make this sound if I go full throttle with the wheels off the ground, only when they are on the ground. No issues in reverse. Should I strip down the gear box and see if there is anything odd before I do any major damage? If so what should I be looking for? Just a thought, could this be due to too much grease on the gears? I’m a newbie so any help greatly appreciated. I’ve watched vids on YouTube of people’s lunchbox going from a standing start to full throttle and I don’t hear what I’m hearing. Bit disappointed that I’ve hit issues already as I’ve been looking forward to having some fun with it since I got it for Xmas and it looks like it’s gonna be back in the garage for a service already!
  7. Hey folks, I have been doing some work on my CW01's lately, trying to ignore my hatred of Project Hor-Cha-Hop. I made some Midnight Pumpkin body mounts and a brace for the transmission to stop the irritating slap of the trans under torquing. My current design has to do with my double wishbone front end upgrade on the Hornet. I am working on an updated version akin to a Grasshopper II where the shock is sunk deep into the arm. This will allow you to use a 50mm touring car shock. However, this "sunken" shock mount setup will not work on a CW01, nor will it work if you want to keep the friction shocks on a Hornet/Hopper. So I made one that leverages the Tamiya steel spring mount. Tested on the Hornet and it is perfect. I installed in on the CW01 and there was an unexpected change; wheel track. The front of the CW01 is now 15-20mm wider than stock. Now this is very desirable if you want to run and jump the CW01's hard, it makes them much more stable. If I shorten the arm by 10mm, it will do a few bad things. 1. The upright will come closer to the shock mount and hit the shock. This will require moving the shock more inboard. 2. The shock needs to move inboard. Ignoring the above issue, narrowing the track will result in forcing the shock to move proportionally to the shortening. this now reduces the lever arm on the suspension arm reducing travel of the shock (not the wheel) and also inadvertantly raising the front end. I think I am correct in beleiving that widening the front end is a better route since anyone that would install this (like me on my race truck) wants more stability. Plus, the drawbacks to narrowing the front end are seriously bad. Love to hear some input. Here is where the testing is (had to borrow SuperFly's upright): The widened track from the front From above (sorry, black floor) Also, the upper link will mount to a part that will be wedged by the servo with no screws. This means that this mod will require zero holes or alterations to your CW01. I hate drilling and cutting on stuff I paid for. The MP Mounts are working great on a side note. I change the direction of the pin holes on t he front mounts and made a nice base for the rear body to sit on. Fits perfect on stock body with no mods needed. The trans brace has made the trucks so much less annoying too. Simple little part and easy to install. 2 holes, sorry. There are also Wheelie bar wheels and Lunchbox body mounts that come in all the shapeways colors. I think that's all for now. All that stuff is in the store under CW01 or MP/LB depending on how specific it is. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/ampro
  8. Hi all, I would like my *lexan* Luncbox shell to be the same shade of yellow as the ABS plastic one. However, as far as I can tell, the shade of yellow that Tamiya uses for the ABS plastic is not available for lexan (from Tamiya). The Tamiya shades of yellow I've tried (camel, basic) were very disappointing. Camel is way too orange, and basic yellow is far too bright. Does anyone know of a lexan yellow that comes close to the Lunchbox yellow? From any manufacturer? Thanks!
  9. As the title suggests what lexen bodies have you fitted or seen fitted to your wheelie truck? Any pics? interested in all ideas not just truck bodies.
  10. Got an awesome deal on a new kit with damaged box ($57). Had to pick it up for my son. I've got my own Lunchbox with a bunch of suspension and chassis mods running 13.5T brushless power. For his, I'm keeping everything bone stock for now as far as performance mods go. This is one of the 3 projects that was holding me up from other builds because of the lack of time to work on the body. (Still not actually done, few more decals to print up)
  11. Does anyone have a set of Rear Hubs and Drive adaptors (dont need the tires or the fronts) that is surplus to requirements that they can sell to me at a bad price please?
  12. I am making a set of body adaptors to mount Lunchbox / VW mini bus body types onto the GF-01 chassis. Had Paul form Berzerk RC in Australia made these. Will ipdate once I receive them & thebody posts.
  13. Hi All So I wanted to get the ampro device but its too much for postage, and my LB is a basher just enjoy bouncing around the parks etc etc I do how ever want to sort the handling out a bit without spending loads, so I was thinking about doing a bit of surgery and fitting a large cable tie with enough slack to keep articulation but stop the gearbox slapping. Would put this in the same place as the ampro thing, will post up some pics later.
  14. My Vintage lunchbox Restomod for sale on the Bay. Based on original 1988 kit. Purchased the vintage kit in a pretty sorry state. Completely stripped down and rebuilt with Full bearings, New 10t pinion, New 27t HPI brushed motor, New tyres (original wheels), New Absima aluminium body oil damped shocks, modified to work properly with the Lunchbox and upgraded Tamiya red seals. AMPRO Engineering transmission stabiliser (works better than 5th shock modification) so no transmission slap under acceleration. Brand new Mtroniks ESC. Aluminium body mount kit (essential to prevent constantly breaking the plastic versions when you inevitably roll it!) Body is the original that came when I bought it. It's battered and the front window is slightly cracked but it is straight and fits well. It's never been painted so might be ripe for refurbishment? Chassis plastics are all original. Includes original vintage ACOMS AS-7 steering servo. It runs brilliantly and is enormous fun. Wheelies and bouncy skids. Who doesn't like that? Always wanted one as a kid and it's been brilliant to realise that dream. However, I have another vintage buggy and a modern buggy too and it's just not getting the use it deserves. There are other models I wanted back then too which selling this will fund. It doesn't include a receiver or batteries. Make me an offer if you're interested. Spent over £120 on it so would ideally like to see a lot of that back. Cheers! Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263009786857
  15. Hi all! When I was young and got my first RC car, I had to choose between the lunchbox and neo fighter.. i choose the lunchbox and had a blast untill the esc cought on fire and stopped working. After a couple of years I threw the car and controller after hearing it was not repairable. Needless to say I have regretted that for many years :(. But today I received BOTH kits (rereleases). I couldn't stand the emptyness any more. I also bought bearing kits for both cars. What else do I need? I am about to order some paint tonight or tomorrow so I thought I'd just ask if there are any other items I will most certainly need when building the kits. Grease? Glue? I also need to buy servos and batteries.. haven't decided if I should go brushed or brushless yet.. i don't need the cars to go faster is is there any other benefits or should I just stay brushed? Thanks for your time!
  16. Hi guys im looking for a front grill for a lunch box not bothered if it's painted or a bit rough looking as long as it's not broken please let me know if you have one cheers
  17. I thought I would share my Lunchbox W.I.P.. The chassis is box stock, so no need to show that, but the paint is something different. I had a problem with the green not taking properly, so need to sort that, but she's curing for a few days 1st, still one more colour to go on it yet too.
  18. Hi there Firstly apologies for asking a question which has probably been asked loads of times but after having read posts, reviews and watched stuff on eBay I am still at a bit of a loss. I have a 25+ year old monster beetle and lunchbox which I have got back in running order for my son with the addition of a couple of new ESCs tble02s's to replace the old mechanical ones and a couple of new batteries (3300 nimh) He has got good use of the cars over the last year but the motors which are also 25+ years old (an old stock silver can and a sport tuned) are running a bit hot now and are a bit temperamental. To make things a bit safer for him to use them on his own and prolong the battery life/ run time a bit I was looking to go brushless on the cars but I don't want anything too insane as I will only spend more time fixing them than he does running them, although to be fair I do enjoy tinkering with them. My question therefore is what do you recommend, I would like something as fast as a sport tuned or a little faster but don't know whether I am better going for one of the tamiya motors since I already have the ESCs or go with one of the cheaper motor ESC combos such as the leopard 3930kv or similar. With the non tamiya motors is there anything you need to look out for, do they fit the same to the motor mounts on the cars or do you need adapters etc? Do the pin ions fit? Lastly is there a way of taming the motors down a bit so that initially they are a bit slower for my son but as he progresses I can dial the up a bit. Is this possible via the programming card? Is this what the motor timing option is on the set up? Thanks for your patience Mark
  19. Hey guys - has anyone tried mounting a Lunchbox body on a GF-01 chassis (like the Heavy Dump)? My son loves the Lunchbox, but I want him to have something 4wd so it will be able to drive decently well in the grassy part near our house. It would probably take some custom solutions to get the body mounts to work, or maybe just go up through the top (obviously using a re-re body!) using extended versions of how I think the GF-01 bodies are meant to be mounted. Anyone tried it? Is it a bad / crazy idea? I may just build him a Heavy Dump as-is... but I think he'd get more of a kick out of a Lunchbox, but one that doesn't get stuck in wet grass.
  20. Trying to do as many alloy upgrades to my lunchbox since my kid is pretty rough with it... Anybody know where I can find alloy front steering tie-rods for it? I'm finding it very confusing to find specific parts (nobody makes one?) or a generic part (nobody lists tie-rod lengths unfortunately.) Anybody have experience knowing a kit that'll work? Thanks!
  21. I PROMISED myself that I would leave the Lunchbox alone... I mean, why would I upgrade a "truck" worth about $100? The upgrades would far exceed the price very quickly... Well a few opening statements about Vanessa for me to start off with, she is what has draaaaaggggggggggggged me back into RC AGAIN and more importantly, into Tamiya and led me to you pack of nut cases Good, bad or indifferent, she has been a joy to drive and bash like heck and it's not about the money at all actually, it's about the good ol' fun of RC and loving the car you have, and that means for me using it like all heck then upgrading as needed. Well that time has come. I looked for many months for suspension but just couldn't justify it, finally I gave in and got some GMade as they are fantastic build quality and really cheap for what they are. I would have loved Tamiya CVAs for this but they're too hard to find and too expensive. I also LASHED out on an ultra expensive ESC from HobbyKing The final piece of the puzzle for now is arguably the most important, the 2S Lipo Well, I'll post pics as we go here, I assume the final (LOL) upgrade will be the front A-Arms.
  22. Hoping someone can help me and supply me with the D12 part from a Lunchbox, really want to avoid having to buy the full tree for this little part
  23. Hi everyone, quick question... I have a brand new striker gear bag but its missing the differential spur gear (the part that the 3 small bevel gears go into) Apart from the sonic fighter and falcon, is there any models which share the exact same part? There are plenty of hornet, wild willy and lunchbox gear bags about, could I used just this part from these sets????? Thanks!
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