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Found 29 results

  1. Hello guys, I noticed that I don't have a green car in my fleet yet. So my next body should be painted in a shade of green, definitely metallic. At first I thought of a dark green metallic. I think I would achieve this by mixing flourescent green with gun metal. I have already had good experiences with this dark red metallic (flourescent red and gun metall) on my BMW 2002: Left LED broken, I know... ;-) Then I saw these two pictures and now I'm wondering if there is a corresponding color? Or what colors do I need to mix? I would be very happy to hear your suggestions.
  2. I started painting my polycarbonate body today with some Tamiya PS51and after the first couple of layers I noticed that one edge at the rear of the shell has become really soft and floppy and has cracked at various places. The rest of the shell is absolutely fine and I have given it four coats, with no further ill effects. What has caused this reaction on that part of the shell though? I have painted two other shells with no issue. Edit: Solved - I am a completely moron and didn't cut out the shell properly, leaving the thin part at the rear of the car, which must have reacted with the paint. Feel free to make fun of me.
  3. Hi all, I've just completed spraying 6 coats of Tamiya TS (41, coral blue) onto my Lunch Box (see pics below). FYI I waited 24 hours between each coat of paint. I understand that I should now let it "cure" for 7 days before applying stickers and clear coat? My intentions are: after curing, I will apply THESE stickers (Mystery Machine, vinyl) followed by two cans (approx 6 total coats) of TS-80 Clear Flat Spray. My understanding is that I will need plenty of clear-coat to smooth over the edges of these stickers (which are thicker than the stock Lunchbox decals provided by Tamiya). I'm also going for a matte look, which is why I opted for the TS-80, and why I will not be sanding my paintjob prior to spraying on the clear coat. Nonetheless, I'm curious to hear your tips about what to do PRE-clear coat, i.e. I recall someone suggesting washing the paint after curing with dish soap (I suppose to wash off all the paint dust? Up until now I've only used a paper towel and compressed air between each coat). In another thread, someone else wrote: What does "flash out" mean exactly? And how long is too long before the clear coat fails to "adhere chemically" to the paint? And in another thread, this user wrote: Why did this happen? And how to prevent it? Should I be concerned about the TS-80 Clear Flat Spray eating these vinyl stickers? Thanks in advance, I really appreciate everyone's feedback!
  4. So I'm on my first-ever Tamiya RC build (Lunch Box), and I've done all my research about how to properly primer and paint using TS spray-can paints (washing and sanding first, heating up the can, etc), and then today I begin the primer process (Tamiya-brand white fine surface primer for plastic), starting with this kit's stock deep-dish wheels...but none of the spray goes beyond the outter-most lips of the rim! Being sure to keep about 8 inches distance, and using light dusting strokes, I tried all sorts of angles (horizontal, vertical, diagonal, top-down), and some of the spray does hit the insides of the wheels for about 1-2 centimeter down, but absolutely no primer is hitting the very backs of the wheels' interior (where the holes are). It seems that the only way I could possibly get spray primer/paint in that deep is to hold the can's nozzle directly inside the wheel and blast it - which of course would cause it to become very thick and muck up. I've read that dye is an option (but since these wheels come yellow, and I want to color them TS-22 light-green, it might not work well), or I guess I could paint by hand with a brush. But I'd really love to hear and learn from anyone who has successfully spray-painted (airbrush not an option) their Lunchy wheels (or Midnight Pumpkin, since they seem to be the exact same wheels). PHOTOS ATTACHED Thanks!!! (I'm new here, please be gentle ;)
  5. Some Tamiya bodys call for quite a bit of masking tape and some paint for smaller parts, like the front air dam on the NSU TT. Is there any type of paint that I could apply with a brush instead? Of course I'd still mask the area off, I'd just have more control with a brush.
  6. I managed to bug up my 2CV body, I followed the dimples and got uneven holes on the roof, cracks in the hood, it was a bit of a mess. For my second shot I'd like to go with something more simple, something with less windows and a basic shape, while figuring out how to punch out cleaner holes. The chassis is an M05 set in 239mm wheelbase mode if that makes any difference. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  7. So, after the epic paint job and detailing I did on My Bruiser in This Thread my mate asked me to paint his Mountain Rider. However, when I did mine I forgot to apply clear top coat!!!! And not done top coat on one of these before. The Mica red TS39 I have used has so far come out flawless. I have had to re flat a few bits back with 1500 wet and dry because previous rubbing marks came through. Do I use 1500/2000/finer before applying clear, or just straight on top. Can I/Should I flat between coats? When it comes to doing the silver and black round the windows, before or after the clear? Anything else I should know? Sorry for sounding dumb after doing my Bruiser!!!
  8. Ok so I simply can not decide on the fender kit colour, place your votes below: Metalic Red ( as body ) Gunmetal ( as roof, grills, spoiler & splitter ) No fender kit Wheels will be Gunmetal probably.
  9. I recently purchased a Tamiya Tt-02 D, Drift spec R33 GTR. But I see builds out there with working headlights and taillights, some even have speakers with engine sounds and exhaust pipes that light up. This may be my first build but I want to do those sort of things with my car. I really do but don't know where to look to buy these things. I also don't know where to buy the paint I want to use on the body. I want it to look the Lightning Yellow 400R, though I don't know what kind of paint to use. Does anyone know any of the parts I should look into or what paint to buy so I don't mess it up and get a paint that wont work on the plastic?
  10. Hey all, After building my first car kit the MF-01X escort. I bought an L&L Alfa Romeo Giulia body shell that will sit on a XV-01 or TT02s when avaliable. I have been thinking about how to paint it. Some points to note. It will be one of if not my first paint job as the escort came pre-painted. I may get another kit first to have a go on. But below are some images of ideas. I do like the official racing colours, but it may be beond my skill set to do from scratch. I also like metallic red with dark grey decals ( avaliable off the shelf ) o could do the roof in carbon or matt Black / dark gunmetal. Let me know your thoughts. Also if anyone can help with alfa wheels like all the below that would be ace.
  11. Hi, anybody have any advice/experience/opinion on the best way to mask over PC spray when working on a paint job? I have liquid mask and tape but obviously don't want to lift off what I already have. Thanks for any input.
  12. Hi I'm new to model plane painting. I have a 1/72 jet fighter which has many very fine and pretty shallow panel lines. I've put a primer paint which seems to leave them still visible. Then I paint by brush with model acrylic, which seems not to be too thick- in fact pretty watery, but it seems to cover the lines completely. I've tried doing a wash on the painted areas, and indeed- the thin lines are no longer deeper than the surface, so will not get darker. They are lost. How can I do this? If I remove the paint and do a pre-shading I will just cover the shading with the paint. If the lines aren't deep enough in the original model, I don't see how I can retain them in the final painted model. I can try using very little paint, but it's very hard to paint well with brush while getting full cover AND not seeing ugly brush strokes because the paint is too dry. And I don't have the option of airbrush at this point. Any advice? Thanks
  13. Hello guys I am a complete noob when it comes to rc and recently I got a tamiya tt02 and I am trying to paint a poly body using tamiya ps spray , for some reason when i try to make my first coat of the color blue , it shows up with dots and does not look nice , is this how it suppose to look and later with coat 2 and 3 it will look nice ?or I am doing something wrong ? thanks
  14. Hello guys I am new here and nwe to RC world , I bought a tamiya tt02 mustang gt4 and I need to paint the body, I fall in love with a specific color and I cant find it at tamiya ps colors, can someone please check the image I attached and help me finding the color or a close one Ps: I think it's called " ford performance blue" thanks alot
  15. Hi all, I've got a new lexan Beetle body that I want to get painted up. Has anyone tried a groovy 70's style metal flake job? What products did you use? Any tips/guides on how to do it? I've seen the Tamiya 'Lame Flake' but that's not really what I'm after. I'm thinking gold or purple...maybe both lol Cheers
  16. Are there any spray paints other than the Tamiya PS range that are any good for painting the inside of a clear shell? I specifically need metallic brown but could maybe lay solid brown over a pearl coat? Does that work? Either way I can't find polycarbonate brown spray anywhere - anyone got any ideas please?
  17. Hey all, I've enjoyed reading the many threads in the forum. This body has a copyright 1987 and an arrow pointing to PS (styrene), not ABS. I'd like some advise as to what to do with this body. On the outer shell, it appears that there is that "chrome" top paint that's sold that isn't chrome at all. And some really rough, to the touch, green paint on the inside. It looks like marking paint to me. I did some wet sanding on the outer shell and it's very smooth. My thoughts are to get the outer shell wet sanded smooth a bit more, not touch the inside, and prime it inside and out for painting. I've read about Easy-off and other chemicals. I'd hate to ruin this thing. Thanks for the input.
  18. So I've flirted with some ideas but I'd like the experts to way in, how would you paint a checkboard pattern in the bed of this BRAT body? 1. Method 1 I considered - mask the body, spray the bottom of the bed white, then try to painters tape the bed, and someway somehow cut out the "black" squares where the black paint will be shot, then peel off all the tape, done. 2. Method 2 Some how use liquid mask? 3. Method 3 Buy some sort of thin plastic paintable stock, cut it to the shape of the bed, mask and paint as normal, place it in the bed with glue or double sided adhesive tape, etc. 4. Method 4 Try to find some sort of vinyl wrap that's checkered already and lay into the bed. I have measured the bed - it's 6 inches deep and 5.75 wide. If each square is .75x.75 I can fit exactly 48 squares in the bed. Obviously some will be cropped in the corners behind the cab. Open to advice, I would love to do it the old school way with just paint and tape but it seems like that will be a tall task with that textured bed not being perfectly flat.
  19. I painted this Nissan Silvia body using Tamiya Translucent paint. There was interest in my previous translucent paint job, so I decided to take pictures of each step to show how to do it. I used these colors: For each "coat" of paint, I hold the can about 6 - 8 inches away from the body and spray in side-to-side or up-to-down strokes. I want the paint to dust onto the body in a mist. I don't want to paint in stripes. I aim for complete coverage by the 3rd application of paint, or when the can runs out. The time between each coat depends on when the paint flashes off. When you first apply the paint, you can see that it is very glossy and wet. If you watch the paint, you'll see it flash off and lose it's gloss. It'll still be wet, but will have a matte look to it. Soon after that, I apply the next coat. The temperature that you're painting in will determine how long this takes. On a cool day of 60F, this could take up to 5mins, but on a hot day this will be a lot faster. Just make sure the paint looks dry before applying the next light coat. Here's the body after the first coat of Translucent. Held up to the light, it's very see-through. Here it is after the 2nd coat of Translucent: A little more orange, but still very see-through. The 3rd coat of Translucent: At this point, there wasn't much left in the can, so I was holding the body up to the light and looking for any area's that looked uneven. In particular the lines and crevices in the bumpers or around the windows. Here's how it looks now: Here's how it looks from the outside when held up to the light. If I stopped here, this is how it would look. If I backed this with black, I would just get a dark orange color that wouldn't be that appealing. The next step is where the magic happens. Here's the first dusting of Bright Silver: You can already see the color starting to change on the outside. It looks like there's some yellow in the orange. Here's the next coat of Bright Silver. I had complete coverage by this step and stopped here with the Bright Silver. When held up to the light, you can see that it is still semitransparent. If you look at the shadow from my hand, you see the silver. First coat of Black. Held up to the light: Next coat of black. I put the black on a bit heavier here. Held up to the light, you can no longer see through the body. I gave it a couple hours to dry, and then removed the masks and overspray film. This is the body in direct sunlight. You can see the metal flake from the Bright Silver showing through, giving depth to the paint. Indoor lighting showing the metal flake.
  20. I am at the point of putting a clear coat on a Lunchbox body. Since I sprayed the whole thing with Tamiya model paint (TS), I realized I have no Tamiya brand clear coat. Any issue with using a Testors clear coat lacquer with the Tamiya paint? I have no hobby shops near me except for a Hobby Lobby that carries Testors paints.
  21. Tamiya TS10 (French Blue) vs TS23 (Bright Blue) vs TS44 (Brilliant Blue) Do any of you have bodies showing any or all of these paint colors in the real world? Thank you.
  22. Hi all. I'm after a pot of white PC-1 Paint. Doesn't have to be sealed but does need to be useable please let me know if you can help
  23. Hello, I am restoring my Falcon (for the most part) and decided to go with a black and yellow color scheme for the new body I got. Anybody have any recommendations for the best yellow polycarbonate paint that matches the color of the stock yellow cva shocks and the yellow plastics? thanks!
  24. I haven't tried yet, but was thinking of trying to paint all the yellow plastic pieces on a Boomerang or Falcon with paint. Anyone have any tips as to what kind of paint, preparations, and is it even worth the time to paint the shocks with the springs going over them? Would it be better just to replace them with allow? thanks for any advice or input
  25. Getting on here and chatting about my Thunder Dragon has got me wondering about whether it's possible to strip the paint. It's a pretty tatty job done by my 15 year old self, but new TD bodies are rare and super expensive. I wondered if there are a sure fire safe way of getting the old paint off without damaging the body so I could have a proper go?
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