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Found 31 results

  1. Hello TC'ers, See my traderoom for vintage tamiya stuff I'm clearing out. Most is mint or NIP I have more parts to photo and list. Sand Rover Monster Beetle Toyota Hilux - SOLD CRP parts RC Lohas parts - SOLD +more http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades.asp?id=13490
  2. While recently playing with my Buggy Champ my rear tire came off in a vacant dirt field. Obviously the wheel nut wasn't tightened enough, but I discovered the small steel pin that goes through the rear shaft and fits inside the back of the wheel hub fell out, too, followed by the wheel hub. As a kid I didn't remember this happening to my Rough Rider, so I pulled it out and took a look at it and sure enough the wheel hub is permanently attached to the rear shaft. I'm curious... Why would Tamiya make this particular design change? To me, it would seem the old design is the better one for two reasons. 1) The hub and shaft/axle are one piece with no small parts to lose. Also, no extra loose play from the u-joint to the wheel. 2) With it being one piece, you're able to tighten the wheel nut much more, preventing the nut from loosening. On the new design, the nut can only tighten to a point before the wheel will no longer turn. So again, why this design change? I can't imagine it was to save money. -- Jeff
  3. All, in my quest to get the original sponsor decals for my original Avante restauration, i am exploring all options. In light of that, i am looking for the correct dimensions of the "Bel Ray" blue/white sponsor decal. Apart from the Avante, i have seen it on the Rough Rider, Super Champ, Sand Rover and Frog. If you own one of these models, could you please measure the size (Width, Height) of the "Bel Ray" decal,preferably in millimeters and post it in this thread so i can narrow down my search? Many thanks, Dominique
  4. VINTAGE SAND SCORCHER I am just clearing down as I now have 4 scorchers. I spent many hours restoring this scorcher and then enjoyed thrashing it around on the beach. The bug is all original but is fitted with ballrace bearings which give less friction for longer run times and better performance. I fitted a Tamiya TEU-101BK esc to give better control and more power over the original MSC. The shell is also from a 2010 sand scorcher re-release. It is missing 4 cam locks but I used two bolts with body pins as it was a lot easier than the 4 awkward cam locks. The body has been painted in automotive paints, it isn't a shelf queen standard paint job but it looks awesome flicking up sand. The nosecone has had the number plate reccess filled to give a more racey look. Adding to which it has no glass in the body and number boards in the rear windows to set this bug out from the crowd. The decals are repro and not great quality, a few are slitghtly peeling but that doesn't matter, I built this bug to be enjoyed rather than just looked at. The tyres are original and still in good condition but the fronts are a bit "dry". The outer wheel covers are the originals which have been freshened up with a white aerosol. Sand scorchers are known for there scale replica VW beetle style suspension, however this means that on any surfaces other than sand they have a tendancy to roll even a slow speeds. Therefore, I fitted this bug with rear shocks from a TL-01 touring car which don't allow the rear arms to drop out at a ridiculous angle which makes them much easier to drive anywhere. There is no front shocks fitted to this scorcher. This does not affect the handling at all as the originals leaked so much they were only there for looks. No radio gear is included. You will need, radio gear, battery and front shocks (if you want to have them) to run this bug! Also, included is a driver which still needs finishing. The buyer of this bug will be very, veru happy. This would suit any tamiya collector. I would like £190 ono for this scorcher. UK postage is £12 and will be sent out 1st class recorded. Please PM me if interested.
  5. Hi everybody, After watching some videos and looking at loads of great pictures of SRB's splashing about in salt water I was wondering if this causes any problems. It looks spectacular but I don't want to wreck the car doing it. Do you use plastic or brass bushings rather than bearings so they don't rust? Will the torsion bars seize up? Does it have to be a full strip and rebuild after each run? What do you use to clean them off? Any information and tips on what I can do to prevent any problems would be much appreciated. Thanks Marcus
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