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Does anyone have a matches pair of SRB / Buggy champ gearbox halves spare and for sale? This is for a beach runner so I am happy with later or re-re type, provided all the threads are good and the rear suspension arm holes aren't oval. Based in the UK but happy to buy WW. AlG

I recently picked up a TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor. I want to try putting it in my Buggy Champ but the instructions suggest a gear ratio of 9:1. Are there gears out there that give me this ratio and fit under the gear cover? If so, what's a good place to buy these type of gears? -- Jeff

£35 plus postage Good used condition, camlocks wellnuts and switch cover included Two small stress marks near top receiver box screws 10mm diameter 'melt' in bottom near front wellnut but otherwise sound. Camlock lugs all present and un-cracked Rear wellnut hole intact although front wellnut is compressed so will need to be cut out or used as is (perfectly useable, just not removeable) Payment by paypal gift or charges covered please (international, gift only)

As much as it annoys me when I read a post that starts with "Testing the water with this one, not sure if I want to sell it"... that's what I'm doing here. I'm listening to interest and good offers out there. I could do with raising cash to fund other purchases I want to make. This is the rarest SRB hop there is, in my opinion, and it has never been mounted to a chassis. Converts the SRB chassis into 4WD. Link to pics in my showroom http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=124947&sid=13490 Make me an offer Thanks

Hi, I am trying to source a body post for my Sand Scorcher so I can use the Super Champ servo saver as detailed here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=58289 I found that a TC member made some a while back but he doesn't have any more. Anyone know of alternative source or even something else that fits?

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While recently playing with my Buggy Champ my rear tire came off in a vacant dirt field. Obviously the wheel nut wasn't tightened enough, but I discovered the small steel pin that goes through the rear shaft and fits inside the back of the wheel hub fell out, too, followed by the wheel hub. As a kid I didn't remember this happening to my Rough Rider, so I pulled it out and took a look at it and sure enough the wheel hub is permanently attached to the rear shaft. I'm curious... Why would Tamiya make this particular design change? To me, it would seem the old design is the better one for two reasons. 1) The hub and shaft/axle are one piece with no small parts to lose. Also, no extra loose play from the u-joint to the wheel. 2) With it being one piece, you're able to tighten the wheel nut much more, preventing the nut from loosening. On the new design, the nut can only tighten to a point before the wheel will no longer turn. So again, why this design change? I can't imagine it was to save money. -- Jeff

In the gearbox of a re-release Sand Scorcher or Buggy Champ, has anyone replaced the 2 nylon gears (the Final Gear and the Counter Gear) with stronger, metal-type gears? If so, where can I find these type of gears? I am not looking to go with the Hopup Differential but rather just replace the gears. -- Jeff

friends. I have my sand scorcher with the original electronics and a spektrum RX/TX combo. the problem I have right now is the I turn it on, the steering works OK but the motor doesn't move a bit. I use a 4600 MaH 7.2Vt battery. can anybody guide me to were can be the problem. Thanks alot. this is my SC Juan

finally dug out my old but little used m03L bmw mini from my storeroom. read a few guides on the web on things i could do with it. some online shopping at stella and my local tamiya agent. The result is 1 m03 rear wheel drive conversion 2 sand scorcher body + wild ceptor wheels n tyres pictures and steps coming up soonest!

VINTAGE SAND SCORCHER I am just clearing down as I now have 4 scorchers. I spent many hours restoring this scorcher and then enjoyed thrashing it around on the beach. The bug is all original but is fitted with ballrace bearings which give less friction for longer run times and better performance. I fitted a Tamiya TEU-101BK esc to give better control and more power over the original MSC. The shell is also from a 2010 sand scorcher re-release. It is missing 4 cam locks but I used two bolts with body pins as it was a lot easier than the 4 awkward cam locks. The body has been painted in automotive paints, it isn't a shelf queen standard paint job but it looks awesome flicking up sand. The nosecone has had the number plate reccess filled to give a more racey look. Adding to which it has no glass in the body and number boards in the rear windows to set this bug out from the crowd. The decals are repro and not great quality, a few are slitghtly peeling but that doesn't matter, I built this bug to be enjoyed rather than just looked at. The tyres are original and still in good condition but the fronts are a bit "dry". The outer wheel covers are the originals which have been freshened up with a white aerosol. Sand scorchers are known for there scale replica VW beetle style suspension, however this means that on any surfaces other than sand they have a tendancy to roll even a slow speeds. Therefore, I fitted this bug with rear shocks from a TL-01 touring car which don't allow the rear arms to drop out at a ridiculous angle which makes them much easier to drive anywhere. There is no front shocks fitted to this scorcher. This does not affect the handling at all as the originals leaked so much they were only there for looks. No radio gear is included. You will need, radio gear, battery and front shocks (if you want to have them) to run this bug! Also, included is a driver which still needs finishing. The buyer of this bug will be very, veru happy. This would suit any tamiya collector. I would like £190 ono for this scorcher. UK postage is £12 and will be sent out 1st class recorded. Please PM me if interested.

Hi everybody, After watching some videos and looking at loads of great pictures of SRB's splashing about in salt water I was wondering if this causes any problems. It looks spectacular but I don't want to wreck the car doing it. Do you use plastic or brass bushings rather than bearings so they don't rust? Will the torsion bars seize up? Does it have to be a full strip and rebuild after each run? What do you use to clean them off? Any information and tips on what I can do to prevent any problems would be much appreciated. Thanks Marcus