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Found 266 results

  1. Im new to Tamiya Club so i figured i would document this build and that might be a good introduction. Ill try and keep it intresting. I know the Egress has been built a lot but i have some ideas that maybe some would like to see. If there is interest in this build, ill take it through to the end.
  2. A few ago I’d had to reluctantly part with my Tamiya collection, all of it, except one or two box wrenches… such were the financial hardships I was experiencing - it really felt like I’d lost my history… gutted. …but like the Madcap slogan went “Don’t Give Up” I didn’t give up during those hardships. to restart my return to the Tamiya hobby I’d really like to source a set of the yellow and black Avante cam lock Wheels if anyone can point me in the right direction, I’d be much obliged. after a very tough few years it’s finally good to be back 😃🙏 (apologies I borrowed a library stock picture of a Avante wheel of a TamiyaClub member)
  3. Hello, I am not sure if this is the correct place for this post. I used to race Tamiya cars back in the mid 80’s. I have been cleaning out my storage of vintage parts and cars. I am listing them on eBay. New listing very Sunday, until it is all sold. My user name on eBay is Tiki-man. https://www.ebay.com/usr/tiki-man Just wanted to give some collectors a heads up. Cheers J
  4. Hey everyone! I was looking for a new Low-Profile Servo for an upcoming build. I planned on buying the TSU06. Now I see that it says its not compatible with TEU302BK and TEU105BK. Since I am using a GT Tuned Motor, I was planning to use a TEU105BK ESC, which I have a lots of units lying around here. What is the point here? The ESC has a BEC build in, but does that TSU06 draw so much power? What are my alternative options? Savöx 1251/1252? I doubt they would work. They have basically the same specifications...?! Thanks
  5. Hi all, So I have 4 unbuilt kits in the loft and an old school Monster beetle with a Acoms ( crystal) transmitter from 1985. What I want to do is to be able to control the new 4 unbuilt kits through 1 transmitter. I assume things are digital these days rather than analog. I need your recommendations as to how to do this and what is the best kit to buy. I’ve heard that this can be done.. just don’t know where to start. I can’t use the wheel style transmitters, so am only after the 2stick type transmitter. Based in the UK and getting back into RC’ing after a 38 yr hiatus!! My unbuilt kits are Wild One ( blockhead), 2011Avante, re re Hotshot and rere Sand Scorcher. I’ve also got the front body pillar that I can swap out and put the racing buggy body onto that chassis too.
  6. Hello, I am thinking of buying a new motor for my 1:10 scale Tamiya Alpine A110 Jägermeister R/C car, i currently have the stock engine that came with the car, and i am stuck deciding between the Tamiya 540 Sport Tuned Black version and the Tamiya GT Tuned Motor. If anybody can tell me what is better, i would really appreciate it! Thanks -olx
  7. As some of you know I am collection the 4WD buggies from my youth.From Boomerang to Terra Scorcher. Well at least I was till this popped up locally on GumTree for a good price. Told myself I was buying no more buggies till I had the ones I have finished. You know that lie we tell ourselves and the boss. It came with a box instructions and loads of bits and bobs, in full running order as it was raced. Ok so its not got the right wheels, or tires, the body is BRUSH painted inside and OUT!!!!!!! badly round the decals. BUT it was only £60 and came with Hi Caps and 2 Tamtec cars with it. The Tamtecs are already with a new owner, the wheels, original blue shocks and near bald tires and body are on their way and the money from the Tamtech's paid for for the car and the bits so its basically free.....This hobby pays for its self!!!!!! OH the lies we tell ourselves and our other half's. NO MORE until I have finished all the work on the ones I have. UNTIL that MUST have bargain comes up cause you secretly really fancy a (oh lets be honest anything Tamiya that looks good - **** thats just about most of the back catalogue!!!!!) It started with- I do LOVE the look of the MadCap and the Astute so if they ever came up at the right money.....And a Nissan King CAB, oh and a monster beetle, a lunch box (OK all the monster trucks really) maybe a FROG or a FOX as well BUT only at the right price.......honest!! **** who invented eBay you have a lot to answer for. SO what have you bought cause you found it at the right price rather than went looking specifically for it. Show us how you found it and how it finished up (basher or display)
  8. I read a review somewhere that mentioned that tamiya has improved plastics on some models. I assume this includes the BBX. Does anyone know of other kits with improved parts? Perhaps the Blockhead Motors line?
  9. For sale is a Tamiya Opel Calibra V6. Comes with battery, Tamiya Torque Tuned motor and Absima S90MH servo. Built with full ball bearing kit. No transmitter included, but does have a Carson Reflex receiver still installed. Can obviously be replaced by one of your own. Body shell painted and completed with decals. Also complete with original box. Shipping to UK only. £250, with DPD Next Day shipping included, fully tracked. PayPal preferred if possible. Let me know if you are interested!
  10. Back in 2012, the world was a different place. For starters, I did not have a Tamiya Striker - until late in the year: Apparently, I had a hankering for something very different, and the Striker was unlike many things before or since. The "sharp wind-cheating Formula 1-style body" [- Tamiya promotional video] and the desire to "hit the trail and strike out the competition" [- also the Tamiya promotional video] led me to acquire one. It was put together during my time in post-secondary school, which meant minimal effort to get it going. The only chassis modification I made at the time was adding the Team CRP front chassis brace and bumper set for the Futaba FX-10. Stickers, different tires, and a painted helmet were all I needed to "enjoy" the Striker experience. I ran that car for two years, after which its run time became sporadic (I even half-heartedly listed it for sale in 2016), to be resurrected in 2021. For all that time, the car retained its controversial front swing-axle suspension. Accompanied by a heavily rear-biased weight distribution and pure friction dampers, the understeer was very tangible. Initially, I accepted it as part of driving a Tamiya Striker, but over time, the intrigue of a double-wishbone conversion at the front end lingered. The time finally arrived when I pushed the Striker a bit too hard and broke both front suspension arms: My wallet made the decision for me to finally abandon the stock front suspension setup: not only were front suspension arms scarce, but they were expensive! It was cheaper to attempt modifications than to shell out for NOS parts, and so the trials of customization and testing commenced. The first iteration used Grasshopper II parts: Citing similarities between the Striker and Grasshopper II, I came to learn that about the only front-end components those two models had in common were wheels and tires. I did manage to make it functional, if not entirely useful... And so begins the modification of a humble Tamiya Striker!
  11. Hi Guys! My Mrs has bought me the bruiser and high lift for my Birthday. While I am currently waiting for the clock to tick and days to pass nearer to my birthday, I have made a list for both chassis for relevant upgrades. The only thing I am unsure about is selecting the right motor? I am trying to stick to Tamiya Motors (Brushed) but open for suggestions Which Tamiya motor would you guys suggest would give me adequate power and torque suitable for the chassis? I will be running 2S Lipos The plan for the Bruiser and High Lift is to turn them into "OK" trail trucks (I know they're aren't the best and that there are better trucks) Here are the motors I have in mind: Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T Motor: 54358 Tamiya TR Torque Tuned 33T Motor: 56526 Tamiya CR Tuned 35T Motor: 54114 Many Thanks! S
  12. Hi all, I've just completed spraying 6 coats of Tamiya TS (41, coral blue) onto my Lunch Box (see pics below). FYI I waited 24 hours between each coat of paint. I understand that I should now let it "cure" for 7 days before applying stickers and clear coat? My intentions are: after curing, I will apply THESE stickers (Mystery Machine, vinyl) followed by two cans (approx 6 total coats) of TS-80 Clear Flat Spray. My understanding is that I will need plenty of clear-coat to smooth over the edges of these stickers (which are thicker than the stock Lunchbox decals provided by Tamiya). I'm also going for a matte look, which is why I opted for the TS-80, and why I will not be sanding my paintjob prior to spraying on the clear coat. Nonetheless, I'm curious to hear your tips about what to do PRE-clear coat, i.e. I recall someone suggesting washing the paint after curing with dish soap (I suppose to wash off all the paint dust? Up until now I've only used a paper towel and compressed air between each coat). In another thread, someone else wrote: What does "flash out" mean exactly? And how long is too long before the clear coat fails to "adhere chemically" to the paint? And in another thread, this user wrote: Why did this happen? And how to prevent it? Should I be concerned about the TS-80 Clear Flat Spray eating these vinyl stickers? Thanks in advance, I really appreciate everyone's feedback!
  13. If you know my collection you will know that I like Tamiya Nitro. Maybe an understatement with approx 250 Tamiya but what I love is the restoration challenge. During lockdown I decided to get a runner of all the major Tamiya off road nitro kits and the TGM-04 TNX 5.2r is the last one I need. With the TGM kits that I dont run this will be the 14th of these monsters to join my collection. Now, it would be fair to say that I also like a challenge! I find it really hard to look away from Tamiya nitro kits that are down on their luck....and this one really is. It's clear that the kit was used, probably abused and then sidelined for time to take its toll. So a little about the kit itself first. The TGM-04 chassis TNX 5.2r first hit the streets in Dec 2006 as kit number 43530. The last in a line of Monster truck iterations that would carry the TGM chassis designation it basically took all the Proline developed hop-ups from the TNX 3.0 and rolled them into one. Tamiya fitted the Force .32 engine badged as the FR-32FX and added the usual body, wheels and radio gear. These make great trucks but they really didn't get any further development and as we all known brushless power soon started to overtake. Tamiya released one extra kit with some bling in the 49460 Champagne Gold Version ( restored one here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/88767-49460-tamiya-tnx-52r-champagne-gold-restoration/& ) and then the Nitrage came along. Since then nothing. Now, the one that I will be restoring popped up on Ebay and went on the watch list. First impressions aren't too bad are they! Wrong body, dirty, a little scruffy etc. But my oh my things get worse... Tyres are all dry rotted Steering parts are all rusty Underside is the same Engine is a bit rusty! and lastly a full chassis shot. As ever...the plan will be too restore as much as possible and make this into a runner.......Stay tuned she is on the way to my house and I paid £63.
  14. Hey guys, I want to upgrade my 15~ years old tamiya manta ray, I've read a lot on the forums and I'm a bit confused, this is the first time I've decided to "open the hood" of the car. Right now I'm running Nimh batteries and I've decided to move to LIPO's. I ordered these parts: -Aluminum motor mount -x2 3S LIPO batt 2300mAh 45C -HobbyWing QuicRun 1060 brushed ESC 60A -53068 Tamiya high speed motor 540 Mabuchi -TA02 high gear set(66T/69T) -Aluminum main drive shaft for TA01/Top Force -Aluminum pitch 0.6 hard coated 25T pinion gear -Ceramic grease and 450 soft damper oil Maybe its too late, but according to what I checked those parts should be compatible to my RC car right? Is the 69T spur gear correct choice? My aim is to upgrade it, but I'm afraid to overstress the car, I just want it to still be reliable, I'm using it seldom times on dirt and roads. Any help would be appreciated , thanks!
  15. I hope I don't sound like a complete idiot for asking this (because I'm sure the Tamiya designers/engineers put these here for a purpose), but nonetheless would it be okay if I covered up all those holes scattered around the Lunch Box (and Pumpkin) chassis? In addition to the sizeable circular hole in the bottom-middle of the chassis (which is centered directly above the battery compartment) there are about a dozen other little holes that I can't find any use for. See my attached pic where I have circled these (I'm not including the suspension holes, the on/off switch space, the servo space, or the gap for the engine wires, and I understand that at least one of these are for the antenna). I'm asking because I want to waterproof and sand-proof the chassis as much as possible as I will primarily be driving my Lunchbox at the beach and in sand dunes. As for the actual covering up, I was thinking of using a hot glue gun and/or duct tape. Other suggestions appreciated!
  16. So I'm on my first-ever Tamiya RC build (Lunch Box), and I've done all my research about how to properly primer and paint using TS spray-can paints (washing and sanding first, heating up the can, etc), and then today I begin the primer process (Tamiya-brand white fine surface primer for plastic), starting with this kit's stock deep-dish wheels...but none of the spray goes beyond the outter-most lips of the rim! Being sure to keep about 8 inches distance, and using light dusting strokes, I tried all sorts of angles (horizontal, vertical, diagonal, top-down), and some of the spray does hit the insides of the wheels for about 1-2 centimeter down, but absolutely no primer is hitting the very backs of the wheels' interior (where the holes are). It seems that the only way I could possibly get spray primer/paint in that deep is to hold the can's nozzle directly inside the wheel and blast it - which of course would cause it to become very thick and muck up. I've read that dye is an option (but since these wheels come yellow, and I want to color them TS-22 light-green, it might not work well), or I guess I could paint by hand with a brush. But I'd really love to hear and learn from anyone who has successfully spray-painted (airbrush not an option) their Lunchy wheels (or Midnight Pumpkin, since they seem to be the exact same wheels). PHOTOS ATTACHED Thanks!!! (I'm new here, please be gentle ;)
  17. Tamiya Lancia Delta Body Set - 51401 *INCREDIBLE ULTIMATE SUPER BUNDLE*. Includes: Tamiya - 51401 Lancia Delta Body Parts Set 1/10 (Without Fitting Holes) Tamiya - 54491 Rally Car Cockpit Set Tamiya - 54139 Touring Car Body Accessories Parts Set Tamiya - 445250 Lancia Delta integrale Tyres x4 Tamiya - 53220 26mm Super Slick Tyres (car was destined to be a tarmac stage version). Tamiya - 53156 HARD Inner Sponge set for Tyres Tamiya - 58654 Lancia 037 Sticker set. For extra detail Lancia / Martini Stickers. THERES MORE! Knight Custom 3D parts (made by Shapeways) for Tamiya Lancia Delta Integrale: - Roll Cage - Turbo Vents for Front Wheels - Front Skidplate - Front & Read Red Mudguards - Front & Read lighting sets for LED Lights - Front Grill AND EVEN MORE! Also included: - 1/10 scale detailed windscreen Wipers - 1/12 scale Carbon Fibre Decal for Wing Mirrors & Front Turbo Vents -1/10 scale Tyre Decals LASTLY: - A unique set of solid plastic 1/10 Italian number plates, to complete the build!
  18. How to fix my RC. all wheels are moving in the same direction? I just want the front wheels move not the rear wheels lol. Please help! https://youtu.be/jkUvREW-f2I
  19. Hi all I have just recently decided it would be good fun to return to this Hobby (35 years later) and see if its still is for me. Back in the day I had a Tamiya Fox and later a thundershot (the year of the OG release) needless to say the amount of data i had to collect to start filling the gap was overwhelming, I got a little lost, but fortunatly, there are places like this forum and also my best friend youtube was a great help... so what was my criteria: easy on the pocket: i had to buy everything from scratch: car, battery, charger, etc. all should fit in a relatively tight budget. a decent car: while budget is king, i didnt want anything that will make me unhappy with the purchase upgradable: I wanted to have the ability to upgrade the car if needed (parts, engine, gears) so community and part availability was important building it: I want to remind myself of the build experience inc. painting. easy operation: I want the car to work for me and not the other way around to keep things short, I went for a neo schorcher, but actually, I went for a TT02B based car (could have been another TT02B car). it seemed like it answered all of my criteria. (BTW, I had no idea what a TT02B was 2 weeks ago) for those who want to see the list of things I purchased with prices along with the kit here is a more detailed list: the car: 180$ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DSVF3BY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details the battery and charger: 52$ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QRQPSF8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details - yes its a nimh. metal ball bearing kit: 5$ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003508639967.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.44.21ef1802Wl2nZf metal drive shaft: 7$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803425336193.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.39.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US metal motor mount: 4$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803091385160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.33.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US 19T pinion: 2$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802686602052.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.27.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US transmitter/reciever (w. gyro): 30$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804602560812.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US foam wheel cover: 1.5$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803716864776.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.21.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US 6KG servo: 11$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802817927490.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US metal servo horn: 2$ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832573460693.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.21ef1802Wl2nZf&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US Grand Total: just about 300 USD which is something I could commit to in order to see if this hobby can re-grow on me... of course I can explain my rational for each of the items, but mostly, they simply fit my needs at this point in time... NOTE that the items are on their way, so nothing was delivered at this point and I cannot vouch for their quality... if you made it till here - then this post was of interest to you thanks for reading. [update] forgot about the tamiya white & metalic blue paint jars I also purchased for 5$ each - yes I am going to paint using a brush (with my kids)
  20. Hi anybody got one of these in their stash that they would be willing to sell. Preferably UK as overseas postage seems to be so high.
  21. An interesting chassis announced recently by Tamiya: the Lunch Box Mini on the SW-01 chassis. The link is Tamiyablog's; the chassis was also mentioned earlier on this site by TC's Mokei Kagaku, and on his Facebook page. From Tamiyablog: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Suggested retail price in Japan: approx. ¥ 10600 Expected release date in Japan: July 2019 ★ Condensed various mechanisms in a compact new design chassis that fits in both hands of adults ★ Uses an upper arm that works in conjunction with the steering wheel. Reduce the roll of the body at the time of cornering, reduce the fall. ★ The chassis is a gear drive 4WD that transmits the power of the motor located in the center to the front and rear wheels with a gear. ★ The body reproduces the popular Lunch Box in polycarbonate. Adoption of magnet type one-touch body mount makes it easy to attach and remove the body. ★ It can run with four AA batteries. ★ Upgrade to the 4WS (four-wheel steering) specification is possible simply by installing the “Upper Connect Bar (provisional name)” scheduled to be released as an optional part. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ As part of the "Star Unit" line, it is likely going to be quite a basic chassis, yet the technical details and the involvement of some sort of Lunch Box might make it intriguing...
  22. So I have been collecting Tamiya for quite some time and predominantly Nitro. I moderate here and run 4 or 5 Facebook groups all linked to Tamiya Nitro. I like to think I help out where I can and get lots of questions and requests for help but this one is a first for me. A Facebook group member asked me If I would restore a car for them. As it was Nitro and a TGX I jumped at the chance and said yes. No discussions on what was involved, cost etc but today a parcel arrived. @MaheshIPatel01 it begins! Inside we basically have the car and lots of hop-ups that Mahesh has collected over about a year. Actually quite a costly parcel to replace with the parts he has amassed. The car is kit number 44019 the Subaru Impreza 99. Released originally on the 29/06/1999 its now coming up to being a little over 22 years old. Now Tamiya made three TGX kits that require building with the Rally chassis, this one, the Impreza 2001 and the Corolla WRC. Basically the same as the other TGX kits they have a sealed gearbox to avoid stones, a plastic underguard, silver chassis plates and a different enclosed air filter. This one came from Hamleys in the UK way back when and has been with the owner ever since. I can really relate to that. Extensively complete and it has been runnning Fitted with rear alloy uprights Front and rear stabilisers A nice TM-2 Exhaust and manifold. The parcel also includes some lovely hop-ups A new Carbon centre driveshaft A new TM-2 Manifold. I will try and rescue the old one first Upgraded brake disc and new 2 speed pinion. The car is already fitted with a 2 Speed and lightweight flywheel Front and rear alloy arms Hop-up universals Ball diff set A very lovely bearing set that will be hard to open! and a one way A used Carbon top deck Two pairs of dampers brand new New underguard and new aftermarket wheels and tyres. These will be painted with Subaru gold wheel paint a used FS-15LT engine with the optional heatsink head Lots to do, strip down is first to see whats damaged, broken, restorable etc. @jonboy1 we are looking to find someone who might be able to paint up the body?
  23. Just wanted to share my second tamiya beetle build. Seriously cought a bad case of the bug because I just love these cars and love turning them into street beelte buggies 🖤❤️🖤❤️
  24. Rare unassembled Tamiya 1/12 Lamborghini Countach LP500s competition special for sale. NIB, all bags are closed. This one is the competition special edition with larger 540 motor for a 1/12 scale model. Released in 1978. A true rarity for the passionate collector. Please do not hesitate to contact me for additional questions or more pictures. I'm happy to help! Price: 1 300 euros + delivery
  25. I just love these beetle cars and love to turn them into street beetles. Here is the video if you are interested in it.
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