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Showing results for tags 'tamiya'.
Found 266 results
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Hey guys - with most of us starting to get into our builds of the NovaFox - lets see them! Ive just finished mine - minus the wing at this stage. Looking to put one on that is similar to MadRacers. Gun Metal Grey with some bling rims. Leaving swaybar off - as its useless. Cheers
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Ive just bought a Tamiya Super Stock RZ motor and was wondering what ESC I should be using? Tamiya Blitzer Beetle. BSP RC Electric Model 7.2v 3000mah. Tamiya TEU104BK. Many Thanks in advance!.
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Hi everyone, Further to a recent thread, here are some pics of my Wild One that I finally got painted and 99% done. I still have to paint and install the driver but aside from that, the exterior is done. I hope you like them!
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Hi all, I'm returning to a fun hobby and are in the middle of building a re-issue Wild One and have a couple of questions that I hope someone out there can help me with: 1) I have some aftermarket wheels that have a large, six-sided hub pattern, so I ordered some wheel adapters based on some information provided on another forum. While the adapters for the rear worked great, the front are not correct. The problem is that the front axles are just spindles and do not have an option for the small metal tube that runs through the rear axle - which the adapters use to lock onto the axle. Is it supposed to be like that for the front wheels? Or am I just supposed to bolt up the rims to the existing spindles? 2) What is the best method to trim the edges from the front bumper? As it looks like my aftermarket wheels are going to rub.... 3) I have a ESC and 10T 3500 brushless engine ( I think it was the "EZ-RUN" set). Is a 3S lipo a good match for that ESC/engine combination? 4) Is there any way to not use the 4xAA battery pack (which I believe powers the receiver) and still have it function correctly? 5) There is a small switch in the ESC that is connected by a thin wire - what is that for? Is there a way to override that and have it run on the receiver power? Any help would be much appreciated and I'll be sure to post pics of the build when it's done (att. is a mock up so far)! Thanks in advance!
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Hi people,I finished to restore my Monster Beetle.It was in decent condition except the body that had several coats of paint. After a long restoring work here is the result. Would like to introduce you my Monster Beetle and will make a S.i.g. And here is the showroom entry: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=116053&id=24 I'm very proud of the result. CiaoMax
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hi all, I thought it may be useful to start a thread dedicated to li-po stick packs that fit Tamiya cars as I haven't seen any detailed single source for this issue, please do add links if you have seen one elsewhere , I think I would useful if you could give any details about fit and if you had to make any mods to get the pack to fit , I have only tried the yeah racing 3200 2s li-po packs ,they are a bit too long but workable and have proven to be quite strong and reliable , I had to use cable ties to hold them in the mad bull , for the M chassis I ended up using the quick release battery holder with 6mm of spacers on each side , I used cable ties to get it to stay in the king cab too , will add more as I try them
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Hi all. I'm selling my Avante 2001. Kit has been dug out of the loft but is all good. Everything is in good condition and works perfectly. I've removed battery and radio gear. Things that are not original are: Rear shocks Tyres (need replacing anyway) Front shock mount (think my dad made the replica aluminium one on it!) There is no radio gear but does have original sport tuned 540 motor and all Cam Locks for wheels are present and working. Post to the States is around 35.00 Euro Post to Europe around 32.00 Euro Price 180.00 Euro I'll give it a week and then it's going on eBay. Many thanks for looking! Adam
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Hi, finished building my M05 only to have a play on the drive and try to jump a small speed-hump and shearing off the front-right hand side suspension mount. When I say small I wasn't being too ambitious, it was about 10cm tall, if that. I've tried epoxy, it worked until I stupidly tried the same thing (I'll never learn), should I fix it the same way again and just not attempt jumps or is there a way of reinforcing the mounts so they don't break again? Thanks Adam
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hi all , i have long wanted a 1/10 RWD rally car or more specifically a MK1 ford escort , i was planning on building a chassis from scratch using the gearbox from a 2WD buggy and a carbon chassis plate but, that's still in the works, in the mean time i came across a modified M04 chassis on a forum somewhere , it looked real easy and cheap to do so i thought what the hang lets give it a go, i ordered some TL01 suspension arms and set too, its an easy mod ,you will also need two lots of the chassis extenders, i had some in the box of muchness , i had some 42mm dogbones laying around in the bitz boxes too , they should be 39mm with 'o'rings but the 42's are fine if you leave the 'o'rings out of the drive cups , one small issue i came across were the front shock lower spring cup was fowling wishbones , i used some longer shock rod ends to overcome the issue , no biggy, i may have to adjust the wheelbase slightly but that will have to wait until the shell gets here , i haven't run it yet as i am waiting for the ESC and RX to arrive . i will update this thread as i get the parts and time to bring it all together and tune the handling to get it to drift as realistically as i can
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So, my chosen winter project is the Twin detonator, thanks to some great advice and information from you guys on this forum. Again, thank you. So I decided to paint it a Tamiya racing green, sanded the chrome bits and painted them bronze, along with the wheels. I had some side view mirrors laying around and mounted them. I modified the roof light buckets to fit some white LED's and covered them up with some lenses from an Integy lighting kit. Rigged up 2 Venom 8.4 batteries to a Traxxas waterproof dual motor/battery esc, powering 2 Traxxas 550 12T motors, and steered by a Traxxas water proof high torque servo. And it's fully ball raced, including the gear boxes. All of the aluminum control arms and hubs are awaiting installation, just waiting on the shocks to come in. Tires and wheels are next, and would love to see some pics/ideas.. Also would love to find out who makes a dual battery chassis for it. Maybe someone here could help Anyway, enough chat..here's the pics..
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I'm selling some parts and NIB kit Please, No swap. Tamiya Honda S800 M02 NIB : Price : 159 euros + shipping at cost (from France) Lot 4 bodysets 1/10 Renault Megane Maxi : - 190mm - 260mm - No decals - Fit on FF-01 et FF-03 Price : 25 euros for the whole + shipping at cost. (from France) HPI Bodyset 1/10 BMW 2002 Turbo : - 225mm Price : 29 euros + shipping at cost. (from France) Ta02 Racing Special NIB : - NIB Price : 189 euros + shipping at cost. (from France) Tamiya Clio NIB : - NIB Price : 195 euros + shipping at cost. (from France) Blue Roll cage for Marui galaxy RS - good shape Price : 22 euros + shipping at cost. (from France) Tamiya BMW M3 TT01 - NIB Price : 100 euros + shipping at cost. (from France) -
All on eBay- http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/giddings1980/m.html?item=321037839438&pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4abf58ac4e&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
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I am currently selling my BMW Z3 M Roadster on eBay from the year 2000 It is completed but has never been fully run (it has obviously been tested but not used) Take a look- http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1555.l2649 -
I have a F201 Tuned Chassis with new chassis plate, 4 sets of tires (some new, some used), a new in box Ferrari F2001 Bodyset (clear body, rear wing, front wing, sticker, driver) and lots of spare parts, used bodies. I`m looking for $300 $250 shipped anywhere in the world.
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After having built a few Scania R470/620s, I've decided to make a P340/380. The main difference between the R and P series in the cabin height, the R-cab, (being the premium body) is taller and offers more comfort and space. I've modified an existing R-cab to a P-cab, and converted it to a low-roof. Main visual difference is at the upper front grill. The R-cab has 3 rows of horizontal ventilation, while the P-cab has only 2 rows. Showing the 2 trucks side-by-side:
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Guys, i have recently found a great place to run my bikes and now fancy a 4wd touring car just for bashing, no plans to race competitively. but i do want to run brushless, so not thinking of a TLO1 or anything like that I am really only a collector of old cars and totally lost touch with modern stuff. is Tamiya the best option or maybe another brand, i fancy buying lots of Ali hopup parts and making a real nice chassis What do u suggest that i can pickup cheap on Ebay that will run brushless and handle ok. Can u turn a touring car into a drift car easily or are they two different setups, ie can i just change the wheels or is it a different chassis. thanks Chris
