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Hi, I am currently looking for a custom alloy / carbon chassis for the WR01/WT01 Chassis. I have had one before which I regrettably SOLD with my Wild Dagger Project (I know silly thing to do) Does anyone have one for sale? Or know someone who makes them? Or possibly have a Template to build one myself they could share? (Picture of my old WR01 Project) Many Thanks S

Hello all I am looking to buy the original Tamiya Hornet 5845, only NEW IN BOX. If anyone is interested to sell, kindly contact me personally. Thanks George

Well it has reached the point where I think I am going to be parting with most of my collection. I am based in the US and would prefer to ship to the lower 48 states but if there is something you are willing to pay to ship elsewhere maybe we can work things out. I just dont have the time and space to be hoarding all these cars anymore, and you guys get first pick I take paypal and please message me here on tamiya club feel free to ask for more pictures or info. All prices are with USPS flat rate shipping included. JG MFG yokomo YZ-870 big front bumper, fits what the label says, Free to a good home just pay for shipping AE RC10 team car build. polished kick plate. 1990 roar nats stickers on car and the purple body. $220 Kyosho F1 onroad car parts: tires/foams in great shape some small cracks , top plate and rear pod. Free to a tc member in need, please just pay for shipping. DB01R RTR minus TX (Can remove spectrum RX if not needed). Needs a CVD joint rebuild kit. Update: found a spring cup to use but its not a original. Also included is full set of front arms front/back shock tower, reinforced belts, hard drive cups. Motor and speedo is a generic 380 rotor in 540 can but it runs really well. $180 AE SC10 4x4 RTR (minus TX and I can remove the spectrum receiver if not needed) Missing one of the barrels that fits inside the CVD joint. Body has wrap applied. Hitec 645MG servo, castle 4 pole sidewinder system. I will include a clear SC10 body as well. This car has only been raced a couple of times. $200 HPI Nitro Rs4 MT, for parts, close to being a roller. I bought this for parts and it has a lot of purple hop ups. Team associated GT2 body. Parts for these are getting hard to find now that is the reason why i cant build the rest to completion $120 HPI Rs4 mt roller: Has a rear belt that is in poor shape. comes with two bug shells and one engine, no drivers cover or gear cover. Front MIP CVD's $120 AE RC10DS roller: Mustang body was trimmed poorly. The previous owner swapped out the hubs/knuckles over to traxxas ones so that standard touring car tires fit. Chassis is in great condition, missing battery cup. $120 Radioshack red arrow parts car free to a good home just pay the shipping. no remote or circuit board in the car

All these will be going on ebay tomorrow evening So it's a brief chance to grab them now.....I PayPal gift please, prices inc. Free UK shipping SOLD NIB Dancing Rider T3-01 £130 NIB Heavy Metal Dump Truck Ltd.Ed GF-01 (no esc) SOLD NIB Unimog 425 CC-01 (no esc)

Help needed just got these any ideas what they are thanks for ure help

Hello, i am new to more expensive rcs, and i made my first a flea market hotshot. Not sure if its a mk1 or mk2, but it came with pamphlets printed in 1985 for the nicad battery. I tried to fix the msc, but it still wont work, as soon as i plug in the battery, it just runs backwards even with the controller off. There is a considerable lip on one of the contact plates. Gear boxes and suspension seem good. I am looking to simply replace the old one with a modern esc. Also, i have a new motor that came with, is there any way to make sure that its a compatible power? I will post pictures this afternoon. Thank you all.

Completion of this project has been almost a decade in the making... Commercial-level high-rez resin 3D printers had been sitting beyond $200,000 for all of the nineties and even when smaller desktop units dropped below $20k by 2011, their build envelope was only large enough to cram 5 or 6 custom ring designs into... IOW, not terribly applicable for 1:10th scale modeling. Jewelry casting resin was $175 a liter. Disruptors came on the scene with their $2500 resin printers. In 2012, this was a downright bargain compared to my first printer at $15k. Resin was "less" costly at $100/liter. Reasonable expense for paying clients, but remains extravagant for hobby tinkering -- and the build envelope stayed minuscule at 5.7 x 3.2 cm. The only way to fit a standard on-road 26mm wheel into this space is to orient it upright. I attempted this very exercise around 2014 but the end-result wasn't worth posting here. Problem? Vertical print position pooled and caused a resin imbalance. The build-envelope constraint permitted no other alternative attempts. The wildly off-balance wheel was only good for shelf display. 2019 is the next watershed year where resin 3D printers have started tickling the $200 milestone. How'd they achieve this? By utilizing super-inexpensive components from the cellphone industry -- deploying a relatively cheap 2k-resolution smartphone screen rather than building a 3D printer around a $1000 theatre projector makes all the difference in final cost. All the buzz became loud enough to take notice. At $200, there are indeed some cheap resin printers cost-wise but also cheap in quality; questionable design features abound. Experience proved invaluable in identifying features to avoid. The standout winner worthy of a spot in the stable is the Elegoo Mars at $250. Jaw-dropping price point no matter how you cut it. Tons to like: Stretched-film release design similar to my $15k printer suggesting low-maintenance workhorse reliability/repeatability. Superb Z-axis rigidity using a linear-rail like design. A wobbly Z-axis arm can cause disastrous banding in the print. User-replaceable critical components as demonstrated by their own instructional YouTube videos. Crack the masking screen? $40-ish replacement makes things right. Considerable leap in the build envelope. The Elegoo is able to print what fits within 11.9cm x 6.8cm (x 15.5cm height) and still maintains a 50-micron resolution. Color touch-screen control. Files read off a thumb drive. Prior resin printers mandated tethering to a dedicated computer to drive the projector. (itself limited to a bulb lifespan) After running a few calibration tests (largely unnecessary and for my own satisfaction), it was time to address my long awaited project. 26mm width BMW Style 35 wheel fitted to a Tamiya hex hub. Elegoo Mars 3D printer. Quickly Glowforged a pedestal storage box for it and made sure there was resin on-hand. One liter of their resin is just $45. Third-party resins can be used as long as they're formulated for these kinds of masked-SLA printers. Laser SLA like Formlabs and Moai require different resin formulations. Still, not many are gonna beat $45/liter! The free support & slicing ChiTuBox software has quite a bit of nice features coming from this veteran resin jockey. The ways to identify & edit supports for undercuts or floating islands is praiseworthy. One nit is that there's no apparent publicly centralized data pot for exposure times for Elegoo resins. Possibly walled off in their Facebook page. The product box only provides a range -- thus my initial tests. Small-object test prints suggested that my settings for Elegoo Black Resin be 60 seconds for the first 5-6 layers and all subsequent layers can be at 6-seconds exposure. As shown here, the represented build platform has plenty of space to accommodate an on-road wheel. For reasons outside the scope of this hobby forum, a flat lay-down positioning of the wheel isn't necessarily the most recommended, but I've printed using two alternate ways and got away with successful prints. ChiTuBox goes as far as asking how much I paid for this batch of resin and can calculate the projected volume of resin used and total cost of parts put on the build platform. Let me do the math for you.. a liter of resin ought to yield around 66 Tamiya wheels. Toss the sliced file onto a USB thumb drive and feed it to the printer. Here's the angled & supported version... What kind of detail does 50-micron yield? Hex heads on the lug bolts resolved with a faithfully reproduced dimple at the center of every one! Here 'tis mounted to the M-04L chassis... spins just as nicely as the Tamiya-made wheels. No off-balance issues. Giving the back part of the rim a squeeze shows that it takes nearly DOUBLE the effort over Tamiya's ABS plastic to start deforming. At roughly 1mm resin wall thickness, the toughness observed so far suggests it would fare no worse than manufactured wheels. Once I get my hands on more resin vats, I'll dedicate each one to their own resin making for super-quick printing material changes... black, grey, white, translucent, etc Now all the things that normally get scuffed up (side mirrors, body posts) can be easily and affordably re-grown on the high-res 3D printer. Onto the possibilities of fabricating all the details I only dreamt of decades ago... windshield wipers, light buckets, suspension arms, action cam mount...

1. I am based in Japan. 2. I ship with real tracking number. Delivery is quick, sometimes very fast, and shipping cost is quite low compared to most of countries. Shipping cost is not included in the price. 3. Please add 4,5% to the total to cover paypal fees. (you can send money as a gift if you trust me) 4. Since my prices are in ￥ you can check exchange rates here: xe.com 5. I can send by email, extra pics, or large size pics upon request. 6. I have good feedback on ebay, oople, rc10talk.. Ask if doubt. 7. My prices are 100% firm, I will not lower them. Dynarun SOLD, used but in very nice condition. Acto power, new, come with manual too. 14.000 yen Super stock type RR, lightly super, I doubt this has touched the floor. No scractches. SOLDyen Futaba MC510C New 3200 yen Sanwa Comras ESC+ servo new 3200 yen LRP IPC Digital New sealed To ebay HPI pro control unopened 11.000 yen sport tuned new 700 yen Novak mercury sealed To ebay FS sop new 8.000 yen LRP sx 12 masami edit. sealed To ebay Novak Tempest sealed To ebay

Hi guys im struggling here! I’ve not built an RC for 25 years and now there are ESC’s instead of 2 servos. I have a Viper eco 27 which I’m running on a Tamiya DF-03 with a brushed motor and standard kit. i took it back to the shop that I bought all of he electronics as it would only go in reverse! (Steering is and always has been fine), the chap in the shop said it was a dud and swapped for a new Viper eco 27. so now I’m home. Everything works in reverse (if not a bit slow on the uptake) but when I go full throttle - NOTHING...... if I startin the middle and go slow to build up pace it works fine but I want to race! It seems if I go past 3/4 acceleration it cuts off. I’m stumped, annoyed and embarrassed as my 10 year old son thinks I’m thick 😂 any ideas or help please? CAEC61FA-AB56-4658-8E92-7C369BB17CC2.MOV

Hi can anyone tell me what chassis this is please

Can anyone tell me which chassis this is and would like to say thanks to any1 that has helped already brought a loft find and thanks to peep on here am finding out what I brought thank again

Embarking on a 3 way with some falcons Falcon #3 - rolling chassis in need of a clean up Falcon #1 - filthy wrecked chassis in need of cleaning and repair Falcon #2 - brand new chassis, gearbox, wheels and loads of other bits (about 75% there) I’ll post some pics shortly JJ

Looking for a used Super Sabre in decent shape. Thanks!

Brand new in box with Tamiya ESC (company cancelled my order due to no stock then fulfilled it anyway - grrrr - so have 2 kits now) The DT-03 Racing Fighter special black Edition is as per a new Tamiya Racing Fighter with some extras and hop ups:- Hi-Torque Servo Saver (Black) (51000) - £10 DT-03 Lightweight Gear Shaft (5x45mm/2pcs.) (54560) - £2.50 DT-03 Full Turnbuckle Set (54572) - £15 4mm Flange Lock Nut (Black, 8pcs.) (54642) - £3 RS-540 Torque-Tuned Motor (54358) - £13 DT-03 CVA Damper Set (54567) - £20 Im in the U.K. Happy for local delivery or collection (free) or postage to EU (£12) £150 JJ

SOLD tg10 mk1 tamiya nsx raybrig nitro. comes with box and radio controller. it ran twice, and you can see the condition under the chassis. i will ship worldwide at buyers expense. i could trade with a vintage tamiya hornet (58045) but NIB, and i will throw the extra cash if someone has one and is interested 155 euro excluding shipping (from Cyprus - Europe)

Another day, another skillset to tackle... Where wheels and suspension arms and gears are best created with CAD software, the other end of the 3D spectrum is represented by digital sculpting programs for those who want to create organic, non-mechanical subjects using an artistic approach. The choice for those committed to sculpting is ZBrush. Are there ways of using scanning tech to acquire 3D data? Yes, but specifically for capturing living subjects, the choices become very narrow and harder to come by as explained here. Capturing/scanning 3D data without ANY sculpting knowledge means being locked into that one pose until more $$$$ gets ponied up for additional scans. Using some reference photos and coaching from "likeness sculpting" YouTube videos, a self-portrait sculpt gets finished in ZBrush... Sculpt is exported as an STL mesh and brought into the ChiTuBox slicing software (Free download & bundled with the $250 Elegoo Mars 3D printer). For this particular model, there weren't any egregious overhangs that warranted generating supports. YMMV. The model is double-checked to print at a target 1:10th scale. If it wasn't already done in ZBrush, ChiTuBox v1.5.0 offers another opportunity to hollow out the model by specifying the wall thickness. The CBDDLP file generated by ChiTuBox contains all the sliced image data along with resin exposure time info. All that's left is to feed this into the Elegoo Mars via USB thumb drive and tap the touchscreen Print button. This printer's touchscreen makes a Pause button available where it'll even raise the platform out of the resin to visually confirm and double-check the progress. Tap the screen and the printer continues back on the same spot it left off. Nice touch not found on my previous resin printers. All of 24 cents worth of resin used, the high resolution print finishes in three and a half hours. Remove it from the platform, quick rinse in an isopropyl tub, and it's off to the UV tanning bed for 10 minutes. As stated in another thread, I've devoted this resin vat to holding black resin. Once additional vats are available, I'll use those extras to hold Elegoo's grey, clear, and skin-colored formulations. For figurines, painting on black resin should make the colors pop more. The Elegoo Mars shares the exact same resin vat dimensions with the Anycubic Photon. This will allow users from both sides to jump brands or even find this market large enough where third-parties start offering replacements (eBay has vats listed for ~$35) Note how the eyeglasses printed perfectly. 'Nuff detail for ya? The main downside to a fresh black resin print is the difficulty in capturing the sculpted details despite using a macro lens and a light tent. Earlier red resin prints from years back posed in the driver's seat of the M-04L. Future iterations might involve tweaking the sculpt to evoke the sense of being reclined in a seat with arms reaching toward a steering wheel. This was not possible on the red resin printer as it was configured for a super-tight build envelope. On the Elegoo Mars? Plenty of build platform space to include the driver's seat headrest, steering wheel and even the instrument cluster - all in a single printed object. Still plenty more additional tasks to finish in this vein... sculpt a helmeted version for the F1 F201 chassis... review a bunch of YouTube videos on painting/airbrushing techniques with acrylic... Exercise that sculpting muscle and the world opens up to sooo many possibilities -- take your own creation and alter it at your whim... road-raging Xenomorph Wild-Willy substitute behind the wheel flipping the bird? Do it. Do it NOW!

Vintage, near mint condition Tamiya QD cars; - Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VI WRC 46306 - Peugeot 206 WRC 46305 Was clearing out my attic and found these beauty's, originally bought them in 2000 on release for my then 2 year old son, opened once as i had to try these babys out and then put into storage, it is now 2019 as they were forgotten, life gets busy sometimes. £350 for both & offers

Well after starting this build nearly 3 months ago Grasshopper #2 is finally finished. Waiting for parts to arrive is a killer! After perusing the interweb looking at other Hoppers I got a few ideas, along with seeing what not to do. My design brief to myself was to make it look different to anything else and try and make it look good while using the original stripes, oh and add a few hop-up parts in the process. I think I have almost nailed it, I'm pretty happy with the way it has turned out anyway. It now features a bunch of aftermarket parts (over night from Japan. Sheesh I wish!) which include coil over oil shocks all round, aluminium front suspension arms & bash plate, carbon reinforced uprights, full ball bearing set and aluminium wheel outers which look really nice. Also fitted are some very nice aluminium side nudge bars, gearbox oil filler cap & pinion cover/heatsink all from T4works. It still retains the little 380 motor so shes not fast but is totally controllable. Took it out for it's first run last night at the Manawatu Indoor RC Car Club meeting and she ran good. Had a couple of small teething issues to sort, the battery cover on the bottom fell off and dragged the battery on the floor and the front suspension had a couple of screws come loose. Not sure if that is because I failed to check them before assembly or if it means they are not up to the punishment, time will tell I guess. Picked up a few scuffs already but that's ok, just proof that it's been used and not a shelf queen. A nice addition to the collection which is growing.

Hi all, New to builds, having had my Dad make me a Super Blackfoot as a kid. My cousin had a LB, and I always loved how mental it was to drive😂 My missus bought me one as a gift back in February and having put it all together, and immediately crashing it, I decided I wanted to look at making it fun but better to drive. To date I’ve installed a Tamiya Sports Tuned motor, metal bearings, and this evening I’ve installed oil filled shocks. Having just taken it out, it seems to sit better under load. I will say it pulls a touch to the left, and I’m almost certain that the wheels are spinning inside the tyres. So my questions are the following: How can I make the car better than stock beyond those adjustments? Should I have replaced the pinion with the motor upgrade? Foam in the tyres or not bother? What’s the best battery setup to choose? Where can I get a transmission strut brace in the UK, as I don’t want to do the 5th shock mod? Sanding down the damage on the body for re-spraying, what’s the best process? Sorry, lots of questions but I’m very new to this. Kind Regards, Carl

I have just picked up an old Fighter Buggy RX (Correct me if I am wrong!) from a boot sale. Not bad for £3 including an Ansmann quick charger and 2 batteries! I'm going to restore this one as a runner for my 8 year old - should be a good buggy to start with. It has electrics and it all appears to work ok. The main issues it has are a broken rear shock mount and the rear tyres are completely shot.

Built entirely from Tamiya T3-01 Dancing Rider parts, my alternate build uses two sets. Even his head and eye pieces are directly out of the Tamiya T3 kit. Cog the Dog has 5 servos and a 6 channel receiver in his nose. An Adafruit micro gimbal moves the head, with left/right tied to the hip servo. 3 mixes coordinate arms and hip for four-wheeled leaning. A Traxxas 370, full bearings and an aluminum Hot Racing ball differential puts Cog at 25 mph. Please enjoy a little movie about Cog, an ongoing project that has taken many forms. The most successful one so far, unsurprisingly, is entirely Tamiya. https://drive.google.com/file/d/15Cv7sK0OL81QszjAD4fz_f8XaIIVgBop/view?usp=drivesdk

So I have bought myself a well used (I admit this may be a bit of an understatement) Gravel Hound from everyone's favourite on-line bidding site. As is often the way I was looking for a new Tamiya project (snappily codenamed the Christmas/Birthday money project) and I happened to stumble upon this little fella. I wasn't looking for anything in particular just something new and as I haven't owned anything on the DF-02 chasis before I decided to take a punt as the price didn't seem to bad. To be fair to the seller he was upfront and honest with his photos and description - "very used RC car in semi working order with plenty of wear due to age and use" And it's hard to argue with that....................... Freshly out of the box and bubble-wrap.... It has certainly been enjoyed!

Hello all I'm trying to locate some original Tamiya 6V 4000MaH batteries as used in the Blazer, preferably boxed. Please let me know if you have any and are willing to sell (let me know how much you want for them) - thanks Rich

Dear racers, builders and collectors To BEC or not to BEC... THAT is the question... :/ I have recently joined your wonderful club, mainly because I fell in love with Tamiya and all the wonders and joys of RC's again. So, like many I had the Grasshopper as a kid and nostalgia made me reinvest in the reissued version which was a great joy to build as well as owning it once more. Since that time, I've bought the HotShot, Neo Fighter and a few others. The latest is Monster Beetle, however, since it's been a while since I built one again, I noticed my Carson's Reflex Wheel Ultimate Touch 2.4G's (this is the one Carson Reflex-Wheel-Ultimate) has a BEC that is a bit hard to find these days and anywhere I find it costs a bundle not to mention the shipping costs is astronomical. I need one so I may bind the Monster Beetle to my Remote Controller, I have the HotShot, Neo Fighter to bind perfectly, but I am now looking for another BEC to put into the Monster Beetle and maybe even upgrade my Grasshopper for the same reason. I have found these, which I don't know will bind with my Reflex Wheel Ultimate Touch Remote Controller: Carson 500501533 - Reflex Wheel Receiver PRO 3, 2.4 GHz Press for Info and this one Carson 500501536 - empfangerrefle xwheel Pro3, 2.4 GHz V.2 Press for Info My question and hope here is to have someone explain to me if this is a possibility that my controller will bind with these two or do I explicitly need the one that came with the controller like this one (Sorry no image only description), or can I simply buy any of the above mentioned alternatives and they will bind with the remote controller without problems? I sure hope you guys might have an answer to this, it's a little frustrating as I'm still not entirely sure how these things work, I had tons of problems with brushless non-brushless Tamiya ESC, I couldn't figure out the differences and it didn't work... I'm sure I did something wrong, heck it took me three hours to put the Grasshopper's rubber wheels together... when I was a kid, I did it in 20min... I don't know what that means, but let's just leave it at that... I hope you guys can help me cause I'm at a loss here, I wish to buy it via Amazon, if possible, but since they don't have the one I use exactly I was hoping I might be able to use one of these. Here is the manual for the Controller from Carson I use for the RC's I have. User Manual for the Carson Reflex Wheel Ultimate Touch The one place I found that might be okay but I don't know them, never ordered from them is this one: The Alternative however, the shipping is kind of a stab in the feelers, but, if this is the only place I can get it, or Tamico, then I guess I have to buy it... but please let me know if I can use those from amazon. Thanks a lot guys PS. Sorry guys for some reason, it posted my topic twice...

Hi everyone! I've seen that some people were struggling with mixing body color paint for Tamiya's Hyundai i20 bodyshell. I've just ordered one from Gmarket and while waiting for it to arrive I am considering some painting options. I'd like to stick with Hyundai's livery. I've been searching for appropriate body color because I don't have any option to mix colors as Tamiya recommending in body's manual. I stumbled upon a Tamiya PS-32 (corsa grey) and I'm curious about how does it look like in real life. I found some photos on the Internet but every one is different. Sometimes this corsa grey color is kinda blueish, sometimes it's greenish. Does anyone used PS-32 before and could help me to decide? This is the easiest option (for now) to paint body color but I'd like to hear some input from more experienced Tamiya PS paints users Thank you!