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Showing results for tags 'wheels'.
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I was running my old Monster Beetle just today after many years of disuse and I noticed something that got me thinking. When the vehicle was in a rough spot and really needed some torque on the wheels, I noticed the wheels (aluminum rims) were just 'slipping' inside the tires. That is, the tires were not spinning, but the motor, tranny, differential, axles, and rims were all moving. There is apparently not enough grip between the tire and rim to organically prevent this. A long-standing question I also have, which I imagine relates in a round about way, is this: I can't figure out why my Monster Beetle has shocks. Every time I hit a bump that would normally actuate the shocks, the tires just compress. When running the car the shocks do not move even once. The tires just 'deflate' to absorb the shock. (To be clear, the re-inflate each time, too.) Both of these seem to indicate a poor contact between tire and rim. How do you guys deal with this? Or do you at all? Should I be gluing my tires onto the rims? Should I buy slightly smaller tires? I'd love to hear feedback from the community. Thanks!
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- monster beetle
- buggy
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Well I am getting sick of destroying my spiked tyres so after some rear wheels for my hornet with the hopper / scorcher paddle tyres fitted. Ideally looking for the set as I want to be able to swap and change. Anyone got any they fancy letting go for a few beer tokens?
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Its that time of year where I have went through my R/C stuff and have the following for sale just to clear some items out and make more space. ok, so first up is a used in box Technigold RX-540VZ motor, I have run this in my vintage Madcap twice and it runs fine and still has plenty of power. £30 A used but in generally good condition RS-540 SD Blue Endurance motor with box and insert. £15 A set of TRF 501X front springs, also fits the DB01 series of cars. £5 A used set of DB01 wheels, have been sprayed in Tamiya Smoke colour, but the scratches are still visable. £5 A set of DF03-MS Hard Type Turnbuckles, these also fit the DB01 and many other Tamiya buggies. Also comes with a set of used adjusters. £10 A Tamiya DB01 front one-way unit with a brand new pulley installed. £10 Tamiya kit # 58218 Toyota Corolla WRC TA03F-S. This is a used kit, but in fantastic condition, the body is in great condition with only 1 small split (as pictured). Includes the TA03F front upgrade bumper and a set of medium TRF springs for the dampers. The wheels included are non kit standard wheels, but they are the Focus WRC style wheels and suit the Corolla just as well.. Also comes with the TA03 parts pictured and the ultra rare TA03R front gearbox and bumper for use on a Lancia 037 project if needed. £90 A selection of tyres, front left to right = DT02 front tyres, brand new never used, Dynastorm rebranded "hobbyworld" tyres brand new and a set of Proline Madcap/Astute front tyres. (must be sold together due to postage costs) £20 Madcap front damper mount and rear damper mount, brand new never used. £10 TA03R-S/F-S short drive belt. £18 These need to go ASAP, so grab a bargain. Postage discount for multiple buys. UK buyers only and paypal for payment please. James
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Hi all, I'm returning to a fun hobby and are in the middle of building a re-issue Wild One and have a couple of questions that I hope someone out there can help me with: 1) I have some aftermarket wheels that have a large, six-sided hub pattern, so I ordered some wheel adapters based on some information provided on another forum. While the adapters for the rear worked great, the front are not correct. The problem is that the front axles are just spindles and do not have an option for the small metal tube that runs through the rear axle - which the adapters use to lock onto the axle. Is it supposed to be like that for the front wheels? Or am I just supposed to bolt up the rims to the existing spindles? 2) What is the best method to trim the edges from the front bumper? As it looks like my aftermarket wheels are going to rub.... 3) I have a ESC and 10T 3500 brushless engine ( I think it was the "EZ-RUN" set). Is a 3S lipo a good match for that ESC/engine combination? 4) Is there any way to not use the 4xAA battery pack (which I believe powers the receiver) and still have it function correctly? 5) There is a small switch in the ESC that is connected by a thin wire - what is that for? Is there a way to override that and have it run on the receiver power? Any help would be much appreciated and I'll be sure to post pics of the build when it's done (att. is a mock up so far)! Thanks in advance!