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Found 8 results

  1. Having recently converted a GF-01 chassis to accommodate the Wild Willy 2 body (here) there was a lasting impression. That to replicate the look and feel of the 1982 original SWB then some custom design work would be required, namely: - a modified chassis with a shorter wheelbase and the body lowered and correctly positioned over both axles, and - custom wheels with an offset to get the correct track front and rear. Initial focus is on the chassis and getting the wheelbase right - once successful then attention will shift to the wheels. My initial GF-01 conversation (here) had been done with the spirit of: - maximising the use of Tamiya parts, and - minimising the impact on the body. After countless hours on a computer with a friend, @Jamesssb, and multiple working prototypes a new chassis design started to emerge. This chassis, we’ve called it GF-01 SWB*, has the following characteristics: - 165mm** wheelbase (as per the first 1983 SWB Wild Willy), - compatible with GF-01 four wheel drive gears, suspension parts and wheelie bar, - compatible with the Wild Willy 2 chassis rails and body posts albeit with the height reduced by two holes, - requires only the the L-shaped wall on the underside of the WW2 body to be removed, and - correct ride height when used in conjunction with original or reproduction tyres and Tamiya hop up dampers. The hump pack has been inverted to save space and allow the height of the body to be reduced. The front camber link has been relocated in an attempt to try and replicate the characteristics of camber of the original. The rear camber link has been repositioned to reduce the camber during normal use - in an attempt to reflect that the original had a live axle and zero camber. For fun the receiver on/ off switch is located in the original position next to the driver and can accommodate the traditional protective rubber cover. Will put up on Shapeways when complete but suspect it won’t be cheap - but happy to take advice on alternatives. However, this approach will allow me to bash about with a model where consumable/ spare parts are readily available (and many metal aftermarket items) combined with a currently produced (cheap) body that requires minimal cutting (just the L-shaped wall on the underside). I’m keen to hear suggestions that could be factored into the design; for example, maybe a LWB version with the rear axle pushed back by 10mm. Will post more pictures as the project develops. ____ Subsequent edit: * Subsequently named GF-03. ** Subsequently not sure it is 165mm based upon measuring an actual example.
  2. Hello all, I've listed some of my parts on Ebay. Mainly Marui Hunter, Galaxy, Samurai, Ninja, Shogun 3D Repro parts. https://www.befr.ebay.be/sch/optimaforever/m.html?
  3. EDIT: Cant upload to here for some reason, hosting the file on my drive: Drive folder for my TT02B files Ive seen a couple of topics on this forum (and others) asking how to increase the ride height/ground clearance of the TT02B and after picking one up i decided to have a go at my own solution, this is what i came up with: The top part is a rear lower arm that has extra space added for the wheel axle drive cup which allows the arm to go below the horizontal. The lower part replaces the include eyelets on the shocks and is an extra cm in length. This bit is a lower profile rear shock tower that can be used with the shorter shock eyelets that comes on the sprue. The four holes close together mount the rear wing in its original position, the others were added because im not yet sure how im mounting an alternate body on mine so i wanted options. Replacing the eyelet on the front increases the ride there, maxing when using the middle hole, the spacer on the shock rod can also be taken out as they will already bottom out a couple of mms before the chassi hits the ground: Replacing the lower arm and eyelets (or using the low profile shock tower and shorter eyelets that come on the sprue) on the rear maxes ride there, to fit this you need to switch the left and right uprights because this also decreases the wheelbase by about a cm: These simple addons give around a centimeter of extra ground clearance and since using further out holes does not give the suspension extra leverage to compress the shocks, giving better dampening. I think the rears would still benefit from a heavier oil but with just the stock this is way better than with the original parts. The attached zip contains the eyelet, shock tower and left rear arm, mirror in your slicer for a right. I printed these in PLA on my multiple years old diy I3 printer, they may be more durable in some other material but i dont have the option. You may need to the clean out the holes holding the arm to the chassi and upright to the arm, i used a round 3mm file in a hand drill. ADDITION: Since i already have this design thread started and the parts are going on the same car i figured id add these in here as well. Sand Scorcher body shell mounts. They are in their intended printing orientation, this so that layers will be going the full lenght of the parts for maximal strength at the cost of some support cleanup. The front one bolts to the stock front body post holes, the rear sleeves over the rear body post and bolts into my low rear shock tower.
  4. I offer several new parts for the AYK Radiant on my iMaterialise store: AYK Radiant front bumper : from 16€ excl VAT AYK Radiant bottom chain guide and plate combined: from 17€ excl VAT AYK Radiant Upper chain guide: from 17,35€ excl VAT
  5. Hello, I am here to share a new cost effective way to increase suspension travel on the CC01 Chassis. The has been proven to be well designed and to last long. Comes with everything you need to install even spare parts included! Its a fraction of the cost of any of the TAMIYA CC01 Extension Link Kits with 100% of the functionality! https://www.ebay.com/itm/233585123592
  6. I often find myself disappointed by the selection of wheels available for touring and drift cars. Things are better than they were, but one of the best brands for choice and availability was HPI, but unfortunately the brand seems to be in continual trouble and AFAIK its future is still in question. There are now some great new manufacturers on the market but it can be a lottery getting the right wheel at the right time and the right price. What could be better than wheels on demand? It was @CarterTG's thread on wheel printing that encouraged me to buy the Elegoo Mars in the first place. If he can get a successful wheel print, then so can I, right? This thread will document my progress from prototype to finish or failure, and point out any issues along the way so anyone working along with their own resin printer will be able to learn from what I've done. So, with my future as a wheel designer laid out before me, where do I begin? First - with an idea. Ultimately I want to have a range of wheels in a range of offsets, so I began by designing a rim and hub based off a standard Tamiya wheel. 26mm wide, with inner and outer beads and a 1mm wall thickness. The hub is oversized but that allows me to subtract from it later to make unique face patterns on later designs. Offset is a standard-ish +3mm, that is the back of the hex is 3mm towards the outside of the rim from the centre. This seems to be about right for a Tamiya wheel. Actually the measurements I took from a standard wheel weren't absolutely the same, but the wheel was used and my caliper is cheap so I wasn't expecting 100% accuracy. More to follow after I grab a coffee...
  7. OK, this has been a bit of a labour of love for a few weeks now. Still in the prototype stage as I type, but I have a spare evening so I figure it's time for some admin and an update on progress. So, wossis then? Well, it's a winch mount / tough bumper for the Axial SCX10 G6 Rubicon that has been my go-to rig for trail duties for a few years now. For why? Various reasons. 1) The stock bumper isn't perfectly flat, so it's not easy to mount the winch on it. The 3-Racing winch has a big metal base plate with built-in fairlead, and it doesn't sit right on the G6 bumper. 2) The stock bumper (and mount) are flexible ABS. Good for avoiding breakages on the trails, bad for winch duties. In fact with the ground anchor hooked over the roll cage for stowage, the entire bumper twists and looks ugly. 3) I have Proline Flat Iron XL tyres with a huge 120mm diameter, which catches on the corners of the stock bumper. So, to begin with, I found this thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3489699 To start with, I printed it out in grey resin and offered it up. It looks cool enough but a) the mounting posts were too close together as printed and 2) the bumper sits a little too low for my lifted body. I figured the whole thing would look better if I lifted and deepened it, as well as adding a direct-to-chassis mount in place of the post-style mounting to reduce flex during winching and stowage.
  8. To finish my Sonic Fighter project I need the following parts (used condition is fine) Part B1 in good condition im based in the UK Updated 17/06/19
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