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Found 5 results

  1. [Thread moved to The Builds in April 2018 due to ongoing mods] Here's my Thunder Dragon, which although some parts date back to when I first got it 1988 (it was my first proper RC car), it's a bit of a Trigger's Broom, in that most of the plastic parts have been wrecked and replaced over time. New tub, new rear gearbox casings, new A5 (several times!! Now reinforced with a steel front section off ebay), new wishbones. Last year I decided to do a bit of a restomod on it: The original CVA dampers were leaking and just not in a good place, so got some Absima alloy body shocks which work well with the car for bashing about. At this point I also managed to pick up some Terra Scorcher wide shock mounts as I read these were better than the narrow original style. Rear ones work a treat, but fronts not only foul the body of my Thunder Dragon, they flexed like mad! So, inspired by Pintopower/AMPRO Engineering, I measured everything up and got a beefed up, wide stance front shock mount designed up and 3D printed at Shapeways. It's a bit hard to see in the photo, but it's a deep i-beam section which puts the uprights outside the TD body and allowed me to mount 62mm mini shocks on the outer most hole of the front wishbones. Due to the scarcity/price/performance of the original wheels, I did a 12mm hex/2.2" modern wheel conversion. I think these black 6 spokes look really nice on the car. Full bearing inside and out, a modern ESC and 21t brushed motor and 13t steel pinion from Modelsport here in the UK (where I get most of my RC stuff actually). Still running original ACOMS receiver and steering servo, although after tonight's run and my newly acquired knowledge from on here, I think a better servo saver would be good. Most recent upgrade was the rear Terra Scorcher anti roll bar. Absolutely transformed the handling of the car. I've removed the front bar now too as the wide stance mounts and new shocks hold it up nicely. It's now bordering on oversteery on turn in, and I grip rolled it tonight too which I never did before! If you have a Thundershot chassis car GET the rear anti roll bar. As you can see it's a bit rough, but it's a runner and I love it. It has all the upgrades I wanted to buy when I was 13 but couldn't afford! I would really like a new shell I could paint properly, but they're insane money now and I don't like any of the other TS chassis shells. Thunder Dragon has always been the one for me. Would love to know what you think, and if you have any suggestions for any more hop ups. I have brand new front gear casings on the A-sprue I bought to get the rears, so might refresh those as they're prone to cracking on the suspension mounts. Now I've been running a 3300kV brushless setup in my Grasshopper 3 I'm getting a bit tempted to go mad and get a GoolRC 3800kV brushless kit for this!
  2. I thought I'd share my successes and failures of owning my own 3D printer. Budget wise, like many people, I didn't want to spend too much, but the less you spend, the less features you get. However on the plus side, if can handle a very steep learning curve, you can gain a lot of experience from a cheaper 3D printer. I used this idea when I bought a small chinese cnc machine, and from what I learnt from that I built a better one. On the 3D print side, I am a total newbie, having never done, let alone seen a 3D print and I can't do 3D modelling, I just know it looks really cool! As a technical person, I'm not too bad, I did manage to build my own cnc machine ( I sourced parts but wired and programmed it myself) and a vac former. And I can use programs like illustrator pretty well. So I figured with enough perseverance I'd be able to master 3D printing and learn how to 3D model my own parts. So after doing lots of online research and working out my budget was around $600 AUD I settled on a CTC printer. This is essentially a clone of a Makerbot Replicator2. I bought this one for a couple of reasons: 1. It had dual printing heads and this looked really cool 2. It had a heated bed, many cheaper ones don't 3. It took a SD card 4. Matman also bought one, so I knew I have some else to chat about/trouble shoot with. I have a friend who has a wahoo printer and it meant I could also compare the two. 5. It reviewed very well in a number of places. 6. It had a decent build space for the money at 225 mm x 145 mm x 150 mm 7. Its capable of printing PLA and ABS (and probably some other materials too) The CTC is a Fuse Deposition Manufacturing (FDM) printer, using heat to melt a filament wire and building up an object bit by bit. Setting it up was actually pretty easy, the biggest issue being many of the screws where loose. It also came with a 1 kg roll of ABS filament. a bit more fiddling and I had my first test print. After that I had an almost endless amount of issues getting it to print properly again. So my next post will dwell on the things that went wrong.
  3. VagabondStarJXF

    Announcements for my Shapeways shop!

    HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!! It's the run up to the festive season so I've reduced some prices across my Shapeways store from now until January 1st 2018: CW01 (Lunchbox, Midnight Pumpkin, Montero Wheelie, etc) chassis braces (Model shown for illustration purposes only. Model not included.) Front Brace Rear Brace Both Braces Strong & Flexible Polished Front: Was $10.99 – Now $9.99 Rear: Was $10.99 – Now $9.99 Set of Front & Rear: Was $19.99 – Now $17.99 Metallic Plastic Front: $14.99 - $12.99 Front Polished: $14.99 - $13.49 Rear: $14.99 - $13.99 Rear Polished: $14.99 - $14.49 Set of Front & Rear: Was $28.99 – Now $25.99 Set of Front & Rear Polished: Was $28.99 – Now $26.99 Polished version not available until further notice. NEW! Premium Strong & Flexible Front: (Introductory Price) $17.99 Rear: (Introductory Price) $18.99 Set of Front & Rear: (Introductory Price) $34.99 Stainless Steel Front: Was $79.99 – Now $59.99 Rear: Was $69.99 – Now $62.99 Set of Front & Rear: Was $134.99 – Now $109.99 Raw Aluminium Front: Was $129.99 – Now $109.99 Rear: Was $129.99 – Now $119.99 Set of Front & Rear: $235.99 – Now $219.99 CW01/Grasshopper/Hornet Diff Lock (Shown assembled for illustration purposes only. Gear & shafts not included.) Special Price! (White Strong & Flexible Only) $14.99 M04S Centre Chassis Section for 210mm Wheelbase (Model shown for illustration purposes only. Model not included.) Left Side Right Side Underside to show modified servo access clearance. [Left side only] Strong & Flexible Polished: Was $34.99 – Now $29.99 New! Premium Strong & Flexible: (Introductory Price) $59.99 Metallic Plastic: Was $54.99 – Now $49.99 Stainless Steel: (Introductory Price) $129.99 Raw Aluminium: Was $359.99 – Now $329.99 Black Hi-Def Acrylate: Was $89.99 – Now $81.99 [Right side only] Strong & Flexible Polished: Was $34.99 – Now $29.99 New! Premium Strong & Flexible: (Introductory Price) $59.99 Metallic Plastic: Was $54.99 – Now $49.99 Stainless Steel: (Introductory Price) $129.99 Raw Aluminium: Was $359.99 – Now $329.99 Black Hi-Def Acrylate: Was $89.99 – Now $81.99 [Set of Left & Right sides] (Parts are connected by two sprues that'll need to be trimmed away) Strong & Flexible Polished: Was $64.99 – Now $57.99 New! Premium Strong & Flexible: (Introductory Price) $104.99 Metallic Plastic: Was $99.99 – Now $89.99 Black Hi-Def Acrylate: Was $169.99 – Now $154.99 (Stainless Steel and Raw Aluminium are not available in this format. Sorry) Link: The VagabondStar Project - Shapeways Shop Happy Shopping! For those who don't know... How does ordering from Shapeways work? Basically, when you want to buy an item via Shapeways you select your colour and material options (if those options are available) and add the item to your cart. You select your shipping method based on how fast you want your order then, once you've made your payment, Shapeways adds your order to the print queue. Once printed, the item will be sent to finishing where plastics will be dyed, metals will be polished, etc., then your items will be packaged carefully along with bubble packing then shipped via UPS to you. Shapeways has based in the Netherlands and in the USA so shipping to either Europe or US shouldn't be an issue. Shipping cost seems to be a flat rate so you can add as much to your order as you like without worrying about weight restrictions. Forgotten to buy something but you've paid already? No problem! As your order will take time to print off you can add more items to it without paying for extra shipping. Just make sure you tick the right box under their shipping options to ship with your previous order before that order is completed & sent to packing.
  4. So I'm sitting here a bit bored at Taipei airport waiting for my flight home wondering idly about a new design project. I've noticed that top end 4WD racers have caster angle built into the c hubs to add to the kick up at the front of the buggy. Added to this as I've been filling my evenings this week whilst here on business, I found an article on Jamie Booths Manta Ray from 1991 and he says one of the biggest things he did was get some extra caster added to the custom c hubs he had made. I have a Thunder Dragon and a Terra Conqueror DF01 now, and I think fairly easily I could do caster c-hubs for them via Shapeways. I just have no idea how much to add. My DT03 has 25 deg, but I haven't seen that much on 4WD for some reason. Anyone got any ideas? Looks like both my buggies have something around 10 deg kick up, so should I be trying to add 5 deg? 10 deg? 15 deg? All help, hand waving, wild speculation greatly appreciated. Cheers!
  5. Hi all, I'm hoping that one of you guys will have a solution for me. I've fully restored my 1989 vintage Madcap 58082 and taken it out for a few runs now. It runs great, especially with the Hop-ups and the GT-Tuned motor, but I keep breaking the C4 part - Front C-Hub (not the steering arm, which is now upgraded to carbon reinforced) I know its 26 years old buggy and not up to todays quality standards, but its so annoying as this is the 2nd time now in a month (and sourcing new C4 parts is getting harder) I know newer models have alloy parts from GMP, Yeah Racing etc. Is there an alloy part that will fit my buggy Tamiya or otherwise?... or am I destined to spend £££ on 3D printing an alloy version. Photo attached Thanks Madcap74