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Found 7 results

  1. The last time I did an entire clod was more than 30 years ago. Fast forward to 2020, I find myself working on a few : Ghetto curing shroud Metallic black TS40 Ghetto paint booth Not impressed with the finish of the body that came with the kit. Decided to paint it. As usual, impatient me dumped 2 cans in 1 session. Now waiting for the paint to cure so that I can sand out the imperfections a bit then another coat to finish off.This first one is fairly stock. Tires will be changed out for original. Next build is in progress still using stock chassis but will sport 10.5t with 120A escs. Dual shorty packs but need custom CF bits to hold the batteries. Unfortunately, my usual guy is running low on CF stock. Let's see how. Good therapy for me since oil price crashing again...
  2. A while back, I tried to turn my Konghead into a trail runner/light crawler. It did ok, but the lack of ground clearance and tallish gearing, even with an outrunner motor, left me somewhat wanting. It looked fantastic, but just didn't perform the way I envisioned. So I tore it back down, put the stock wheels back on, opened up the diffs, dropped in a 3300kv brushless and ripped around the backyard a few times. Very fun chassis. I've had my eye on the Dynahead for a while - the portals would solve both of my problems...but it was quite expensive stateside. A recent significant drop in price overcame my hesitations and I decided to order one. To keep life simple, I used my existing built Kong chassis and just built the portals. Relocked the diffs and bolted them on. So many bearings bushings, and gears.... everything fits perfectly as expected with a Tamiya kit and they spin super smooth and quiet. I'm not sure how Tamiya manages that since this truck has by my count a stunning 54 gears/mating surfaces (!!) Eventually I'll build the Dyna chassis (with about a pound of bearings) and rebuild the Kong as it was such a fun and unique runner. But for now, it's trail time! View under the hood. I used dual servos for 4WS, rear channel is set to run independently on the ch3 switch of my GT3B radio so I can swing the rear tires as needed. I redid the rear linkage slightly as mine tended to bind up in one direction - the servo would easily overextend the bellcrank and it would lock up. I fashioned an 10mm extension for the bellcrank and a more direct link and now it swings perfectly. For electronics, I used a crawler grade WP1080 and a Holmes 5 slot Crawlmaster which with its lower RPM and super smooth control is perfect for this chassis. Decided to go with the Dynahead body, though I ditched the factory scheme and went with something a little more "Prime" inspired. I think it came out great! A bit plain I guess, thinking about something to break up the blue a bit. I used some 1.9 beadlocks and a few sets of Gmade Sawback tires which fit the body perfectly and are decently grippy. Front wheels have just a few grams of weight inside to balance out the chassis. And a few flex shots. Not a ton, but more than enough for this chassis. I'm using the Mini CVA's and a few sets of option CC01 barrel springs so I have a few springs rates to play with. It feels great on the bench - suspension is somewhat soft and supple, but not too much so. Of course, the week I finished this up, we received about 10 inches of snow. so a true trail test will have to wait a bit I'm afraid.
  3. An idea came to me a week or two ago that the CC01 could be a good donor for a diminutive 6x6 build. I had originally planned to do a 6x6 conversion on my GMade BOM, but I love it enough as it is (there's a Peter Sellers film about that), and ultimately I'll try to build a proper capable 6x6 from an Element Enduro builder's kit that I picked up a couple of weeks ago. But the CC01 still seems like a good idea for a quicker project. This thread is really just an open forum for me to jot some ideas down and perhaps get some feedback or alternative perspectives before I start making irreversible changes to my chassis. I actually have a couple of spare CC01 chassis lying around so it wouldn't cost much to get started on this, although I'll have to budget for some appropriate wheels and tyres somewhere down the line. Ideas Something smaller. Possibly the front half of an old Blackfoot body with a flatbed. Small tyres. Smaller than stock CC01, possibly similar diameter to the Landfreeder tyres, but with a wider, more balloon appearance. Possibly 1.55 or 1.7 inch. TLT wheel/tyre combo is a possibility but tyres are a bit too wide and not quite scale enough. I could narrow them, which would save a fortune as I have loads of TLT wheel and tyre sets lying around. Not going for a rock crawler look, more of an Icelandic balloon tyre rig - the concept being to spread the weight so it doesn't sink into snow. I've been watching the Netflix series Katla recently and there's a mid-90s F150 or similar with a flatbed and 6x6 conversion, wearing little balloon tyres. Transfer box to split the transmission output into two. I actually have a transfer box already, so no additional expense. Rear axle will be flipped upside down because drive is reversed out of the transfer box. Should reduce torque twist. It doesn't seem possible to make a pass-thru out of two CC01 axle cases. I briefly considered using TLT axles (it looks quite simple to make a TLT with a pass-thru using two input halves screwed together) but these are getting thin on the ground, plus I'm not sure the FDR is the same as the CC01, which would cause issues with the CC01 front axle. Probably 4-linked rear suspension. I'm not going for massive articulation so I can deal with short links. I thought about walking beam but on an RC with low weight and high torque this can make the middle axle lift off the ground, which just looks plain silly and totally voids the point of having 6 wheel drive. I might anchor the links to a common mount between the axles (like the big-rigs) to maintain symmetrical axle movement. I have seen photos of a "walking shock mount" arrangement, where the axles are 4-linked but the shock tops are bolted to a walking beam. This means as one axle rises the shocks compress the other axle down. In my head, this seems to solve the dilemma of the walking beam - there is still a mechanical transfer of force from a compressing axle into the opposite axle (with 4-links and independent shock mounts, if one axle is lifted by an obstacle it unloads the other axle, just like on an independently-sprung axle if one wheel is compressed the opposite wheel is unloaded, hence why solid axles are better on crawlers). In my head, I can't see that the torque will cause the middle axle to unload, since the rear axle is rotationally tied to the entire chassis, so it will try to lift the entire chassis. If it succeeds (i.e. if it's got enough torque and traction to lift the front of the truck), the rear axle suspension will compress but this will transfer the force into the middle axle - so it seems to be a best-of-all-worlds solution... Short wheelbase. The TRX-6 and SCX10 6x6 models are very long, but I want something shorter. The middle axle will probably be the same as a stock SWB CC01, or maybe shorter, depending on how well the body fits. Chopped brick and aftermarket steering, possibly my own custom design this time. Retain IFS. This is a dillemical one, for me. Would anyone build a 1:1 6x6 with IFS? It doesn't seem logical that you'd go to all the effort of building a 6x6 truck but not fit a solid front axle. But that's a bit mod for a CC01 and requires a whole load of additional thought. I want the truck to be low and compact, so I don't think a solid front axle will ever work. Besides, once I've started doing that I'll be looking at a different transmission and very little of the original chassis, so it wouldn't really be a CC01. And at that point I'm beyond needing to stick with CC01 rear axles either, I could go TLT or Maverick Scout all round, and then it's not a CC01 at all. So - who thinks this is a great idea? Who think it's pointless? Who thinks I should forget it and just get on with the Enduro build? Who has some neat suggestions to make about axles, transfer cases, shaft routing, 1:1 vehicle inspiration, wheel and tyre options..?
  4. OK, so yet another new project started during lockdown. Perhaps if we have a 4th or 5th wave I might get them all done... I started this one because it was something I could do while watching films with my toddler on Wednesdays. At least until I had to start doing tricky custom stuff in the workshop. My daughter returns to nursery for the first time tomorrow and I'm back at work full time, so no more Wednesday build days - that's good, because every Wednesday I'd end up with yet another cut body to paint, or new built chassis to find a body for, or, in this case, built truck chassis to mess around with. Anyway, the plan here is to build an automated tipper using a Grand Hauler chassis and day cab, Lesu tipper and electric lift assembly connected to the MFU's 5th wheel / remote leg actuator channel. Like all big rigs this will be a longer project, but it's been good to finally make a start - the box has been in my bedroom for a few years now. I haven't bothered to take a million photos of the build or the box or anything like that, if you're in here you probably know what a rig build looks like and there's a million other build threads if you don't. This is basically a journal of the ideas I've had, problems I've come up against, obstacles I've overcome, sidestepped, ignored or been defeated by, and stupid things that have happened along the way. There will no doubt be many. So, here we begin: with yet another stupid diff rebuild. Those of you who have followed my lockdown builds will see that I've been here before a few times over the last few months - all my TLT axles were built to crawl, so they were all locked. This one seems to have been locked with some kind of solidifying putty. It might be an axle I acquired built from someone else. Either way, I had to prize it apart with a scalpel blade. Not the best use for a scalpel blade, admittedly, but nothing else would slide between the gap. After destroying a scalpel blade and nearly losing an eye, I used a screwdriver to get it the rest of the way open and a lot of brute force to get the innards out. Now, as luck would have it (see previous threads on the subject), I already had some araldited diff internals sitting in a tub of IPA for around 2 months now. They are finally dissolved enough to be cleaned by hand and reassembled. These diff parts were damaged by a screwdriver tip while levering them out, but they're in the IPA cleaning themselves as we speak in case they can be repaired for another locked diff recovery later.
  5. This started life as a Blackfoot 3 kit, with the intention of making it 4WD and possibly 4WS. I built it as instructed and bought the extra gearbox/ shafts/ arms/ etc to make it 4WD I then bought a 2nd hand wild dagger? roller for the steering and extra gearboxes. anyway, not so much a build thread but thought some of you might be interested.......................... The gearbox and suspension assembly is held to chassis with 4 screws( well 3 so far in this case, lol ) each side, very easy to work on. I could drill straight through and bolt it but haven't yet. It's a bit rough, first attempt at this, still has sharpie marks where I was going to remove more metal, messed up the steering servo, cut the hole too big and had to add the extra plate, not finished it off yet. I have created a weak spot where I cut past the angle to clear the standard shock tower, maybe next time, just cut it off and work round it? I have some very rough sketches of a chassis idea that I had. I did say rough lol,.. I think another gearbox could be added very easily. Tools used. Cordless drill Round file half round file 3mm drill bit. 2.4m of aluminium angle. (enough of this left to do another, possibly an 8x8) Took it out for a spin today and it drives quite well. I'd say it's better than it was 4wd. Will try and get video soon.
  6. Hello everybody! My name is Potatocat, also known as weeb_beano in other forums. I've always been a bit of an outlier in the surface R/C world but most of my projects have been Tamiya related... so here I am! I tend to build mostly monster trucks, but with a twist. They are either weird or 6WD/6WS rigs. I'll probably start off a thread for the projects individually but here is a quick rundown of some of the Tamiya stuff I've built so far: 1989 - Power Pig - 6WD/6WS Clod Buster Built for fun, Power Pig is something I have had since I was 13 years old. The original chassis was built as a favor for me when I was a kid by the folks in a local window and door fabrication company (Gamco). I have retained most of its spirit as a mildly 'super stock' Clod, with a few exceptions... the truck is powered by three SkyRC Toro 10T brushless motors, via triple traditional NiCD or 2s LiPO packs housed inside the chassis. It performs surprisingly well and despite a face only its creator could love, I have a strong attachment to this truck. Overall length: 28" (71 cm) Weight fully loaded: 18 lbs (8.1kg) Maximum power: 800 watts (3x SkyRC Leopard 10T 3930kv motors, 7.2V) 2001 - Tiamat - 6WD/6WS Clod Buster Built for power, Tiamat is an expression of brutalism. Everything about this truck was built on a holistic platform of functional and reliable parts. It has evolved greatly over the years over trial and error. The truck is currently undergoing a significant refit but the overall specifications remain mostly the same: Four 2s/3s battery packs are onboard - three powering the triple old-school Hacker C50MAXX brushless motors. Full steel driveline with aluminum gearcases is sprung and damped by HPI Savage long throw shocks. Tires are actually inflatable, since the extra mass of the truck increased the ground pressure (29 lbs) and required a fully pneumatic tire. Overall length: 30" (76cm) Weight fully loaded: 29 lb (13.2kg) Maximum power: 3900 watts (3x Hacker C50MAXX 10T 3600kv motors, 14.4V) 2004 - Mammoet - 6WD/6WS Juggernaut2/TXT-1 Built for looks, Mammoet is my take on what a 6x6 Tamiya Bruiser would be like. I did have the manual 3-speed transmission from the big rig lineup in play, but it had a bad habit of shredding driveshafts during shifting so I reinstalled the stock TXT-1 transmission. Powered by a pair of silver can motors, the truck won't win in the speed department - but the stock setup gives it plenty of oomph and the result is a fun truck which can be driven all day. Overall length: 29" (74cm) Weight fully loaded: 24 lbs (11kg) Maximum power: 180 watts (2x 540 Mabuchi silver can motors, 7.2V) 2014 - The Nut Buster - Clod Buster This truck is pretty ordinary except for the fact it has a chassis made of the STRONGEST material in the known world... a coconut shell. A pair of SkyRC Leopard 10T motors driven by parallel old-school JETI Master Car Sport ESCs does the dirty work. While I am working on a Lexan body for this machine of loving destruction, a temporary body will have to suffice. None other than the original style Clod Buster body will do. This fine example is from my 'guest' beater Clod, which wears its various dings, scratches, and missing foglights with pride. Overall length: 20" (51 cm) Weight fully loaded: 8.5lb (3.9kg) Maximum power: 500 watts (2x Leopard 9T 4200kv motors, 7.2v) 2017 - Pickle Time - 6WD/6WS TLT-1 I built this truck for my daughter, and it's based on a triplet of TLT-1 axles. Pickle Time actually has a number of innovations which may make their showing on some future projects. It's propulsion is a bit unique- the motor is an outrunner originally meant for airplanes. This lets me get a super compact drive spool and it has worked out pretty well. Overall length: 16" (41cm) Weight fully loaded: 6.5 lb (2.9kg) Maximum power: 155 watts (1x Leopard 3542 780kv motor, 7.2V) Well, that's all I have for now. Thanks for reading and it's good to be here!
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