Search the Community

Evening everyone! Back in 1992, my dad bought me a stadium blitzer for Christmas. I still remember the morning well, and hours of fun were had with that car. Around 1998 we moved house, and through some turbulent family disasters the car went into storage for the next 25 years. In 2023 my dad was having a clear out and getting some bits together to give to my own kids, old railway, Scalextric, and the Blitzer was found. I gave it a good clean and got it running again, but decided to put it on display in my shed. Anyway, this last couple of months both of my kids got RC cars for their birthdays, and I've been really enjoying racing my old car along side theirs. It's needed the shock dust seals replacing and odd bits fixing up, but I am absolutely loving running it around. I'm trying to keep it as original as possible, although there are a few bits that I probably need to replace as soon as I can find the spares. I remember the car as being quite quick, but it's much slower than my kids cars and much slower than I remember. I reckon it tops out around 10mph at best. My question is, looking at the setup, is anyone able to point me in the direction of extra speed without completely changing the internals of the car? Any general advice also much appreciated. I have no clue when it comes to RC cars but am hoping to run and preserve this one for as long as possible. I do have some tape and glue in the post to help me reinforce the body, but speed is the thing I need more of. I was able to shred the tyres as a kid but that would take a long time to do with the current power I'm getting. Hopefully these photos show what you need to see. Let me know if I need to dig out anything else. https://photos.app.goo.gl/osBHvnMye5pxhgjj7 Sorry for the total ramble. I'm trying to write this on my phone, while away on holiday with the family! All the best Jim

Hello there everyone. I've recently purchased a Grasshopper 2. I've run into a bit of a issue. I originally fitted the Frog wheel adapters (53913) so I could run some 12mm hex wheels. However I noticed that when I fit these onto the drive shafts, one wheel will bind and either turn a lot slower than the other, or not turn at all. I decided to go back to the plastic hubs and everything works fine, both wheels spin as they should. I noticed upon inspection that the original plastic wheel hubs have a fairly small gap, maybe 2mm, between the wheel hub and the gearbox itself. Whereas the wheel adapters do NOT have this gap, they are sitting directly on the gearbox. Am I right to assume that these wheel adapters are sitting too low on the drive shaft and are binding as they are spinning/grinding against the gearbox and the ball bearings? And would I be right in thinking I need to fit a wheel spacer or two to lift the wheel adapter away from the gearbox? I've included a photo of the small gap on the right side between the original hub and the gearbox. With the Frog adapters, this gap is not present.

Whats the common size for the Tamiya (JIS/Philips) screwdriver ? Is the M (medium) #74119 or L (large) #74120 preferred for covering most of the kits needs ? Not sure if i should pick up both, or possibly go with the ratcheted version #74152 (or shaft for use in separate driver #69932) both of which are the L (large) only. Currently use a small ratchetted set from LHWS with multiple normal philips heads, and although the ratchet has improved reliabliity (less strippping) i still end up with a few (self tapers usually) where the extra force required still ends up stripping or near stirppping the heads completley

OK. So what are the common dimensions out there ? Trying to find the right combination, and its driving me nuts; as most times the website doesn't list the dimensions, only that it (the rim) can be used with these (tyres) or vice versa and neither usually listing the dimensions. From what i can see Tamiya typically runs with 26mm width and a diameter of ? 50ish ?? Along with 24mm, but then I'm also seeing some listed as 25mm ? I think my problem stems from, and this is completely subjective, but not wanting chrome - or don't hate me if this is your thing - "ricer" drift rims. I've been looking at the following combinations for my TT-02 - and as you'll see, the rims in particular aren't traditional touring car style rims, but i like their look and think they might work for what i want to do paint and body wise. IF anyone is running any of these, either in combination already, or simply has them and can verify dimensions etc before i pull the pin on an order, would be greatly appreciated - also open to recommendations for tyres for carpark style bashing, so preferably not slicks, as likely to get chewed up too quickly; or non-spoke dark rims. Tyres: - Tamiya Racing Semi Slick (50810) 26mm width ?; diameter unknown? - Tamiya Celica GT4 (50419) 26mm width ?; diameter unknown? - Tamiya 4WD/FWD M2 Radial (53227) 26mm width; diameter unknown? in combination with either of the follow - Tamiya Wheels for F350 (19335460) 26mm width; diameter 52mm - probably will have too big a diameter, but i really like the look of them - Tamiya SW-01 Mini Lunchbox (47450) width unknown? diameter unknown? - probably too small a diameter as racing truck style, but again like the look Im just trying to find some wheels that aren't your run of the mill plastic 5-10 spoke.

Hello, This is my first post here. If anyone could advice me on how I may achieve the paint shown below (mercedes AMG). I have been suggested tamiya smoke, translucent green, gunmetal, brown/copper(cannot find brown), then finally backed by black. This makes sense but I not sure in what order I should apply them. I have candy red as an alternative and have seen people do it but I would like to take my chance with this if I can get some good advice. From the images, if the amg is unlikely then a darker and more glossy finish of the JZX 100 mark || would be great perhaps! Thank you!

Hi guys I’m just starting my journey into Tamiya and rc cars. I’ve purchased my first Tamiya kit (Egress) as a Christmas present to myself and plan to start building it on Boxing day. I thought it wise to learn all I can before then and I’m currently on the subject of LiPo batteries / chargers. I have read countless articles and videos but there are still some really basic questions that I would really like answered. 1. If I decide to stop running my car for a few weeks/months what do I do with the battery? As I understand it, I need to discharge it to a safe voltage (ie place it in storage mode). Once I do that, can I simply unplug it from the charger, put it in a LiPo safe bag, and then put it on my garage shelf? 2. Where’s the best place to charge your LiPo battery? The thought of it exploding (even though this is apparently very rare) in my house scares me to death. Therefore, I’d be happier charging it in my garage (maybe in a ceramic pot / LiPo Safe bag). However, I read that you should never charge it unattended. 3. I understand that you shouldn’t let the battery drop below a certain level so save degradation. How do you know it’s not dropped below this level while driving the car? Does the ESC cut it off automatically when it reaches a certain voltage? I fully understand and appreciate that these are probably silly questions to ask but I thought it’s better to find out from experienced users than experiment as i go along. Any help or advice would be fully appreciated. Best regards Rod

Returning after a long absence from RC I’ve just purchased an Avante 2011 and Egress 2013 from Tower Hobbies here in the US. As a kid these were the two kits I dreamed of owning as I turned the pages of the Tamiya catalog. At the time, my after school job only allowed me the cash to get a Hornet. So now I have these these two kits, found this site and wondered if I could get some advice on motors, ESCs and servos that would suit these two cars? I have been doing a fair bit of research online - but there is just so much to choose from. I was looking at going for a Spektrum servo and receiver with AVC, and going with an ESC+motor combo from Hobbywing. Understandably, I’m trying to mix some nostalgia with the up to date Lipo batteries, brushless motor and so on. The cars will end up as weekend drivers - some moderate bashing fun. Although I wouldn’t mind if I could give a couple of my buddies with brushless RTR buggies from Arrma a run for their money. Lastly, if I documented the build, would anyone be interested in seeing the progress and pics from these two cars? Thanks in advance for any guidance you might offer.

While i like the look of the pumpkin Lowrider i find the Kit wheels a let down . Whats the options to change them using MO6 wheels maybe from another kit and what off set would i need in order to better fill arches ? As it comes the track width just looks wrong IMO . If anyone has any photos or links to images of Customised MO6 lowriders feel free to post them .

Guys is there a way to revive a over discharged lipo ? My eldest step son has fully discharged one on his 2 stroke 1/5th buggy not knowing that he should have had a cut off or alarm fitted . I know its a long shot but just trying to help him out and save him some money . I have a imax B6 charger - is it worth giving it a go set to using another setting other than lipo or is it likely to just go up in smoke - or worse ?

I need some advice - not again I hear you groan lol . My next project is more than likely going to be based on a Tonka Indian Winnebago . These suckers are heavy and large - approx. 23inch long and 8 inch wide and weighs roughly the same a cantilever tool box . I have some plastic T REX 60 axels in my spares but are they strong enough for something this big ? Any thoughts guys . Cheers Arron

Noob question but can I use Tamiya polycarb paints on a hardbody ? I want to do a candy and metal flake paint job on a beach buggy project i'am working on . If I use Halfords hard plastic primer as the base coat can I then use Tamiya polycarb paints without any problems ????? ideally I want to use candy green and lame flake . Help please Guys . PS I have to use Rattle cans as I don't have a airbrush

I need some advice guys please . I'am looking to buy a 3 channel outfit for a trail runner / crawler project . The third Channel will be for remote winch control and i think i would perfer some sort of toggle switch to activate it . Can any one point me towards a quality but resonable priced 2.4 gig one ?

Hi All, 1. Does anyone know if these were ever made? 2. If they were ... does anyone have one for sale or know where I could get one from. I drive a real mk5 Cortina Estate and would love to have an RC version of it. If you can help me find out if they exist (if they do) and help me get hold of one, I would be extremely grateful. I know there are a vast selection of shells available and I'm hoping that this is one of them. Many Thanks, Aaron.

I have a set of Stadium Blitzer wheels that have being really baddly painted yellow - yuk . They were bought for next to nothing and the tires are only fit for the bin . I want to strip them and re paint . My question is what method to use . Would the oven cleaner work , do i need some brake fluid or is there any other product that will do the job without affecting the plastic rims ?