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Found 27 results

  1. I managed to bug up my 2CV body, I followed the dimples and got uneven holes on the roof, cracks in the hood, it was a bit of a mess. For my second shot I'd like to go with something more simple, something with less windows and a basic shape, while figuring out how to punch out cleaner holes. The chassis is an M05 set in 239mm wheelbase mode if that makes any difference. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  2. Looking for a Chrome Blitzer Beetle Body & Or Kit for a friend.
  3. ... as illustrated by my TT01E and TRF419. (Not shown: difference in price tag) Someone came up to me at the track, and asked me why I had the front body posts way up into the bumper of the TT. I told him it was so I could swap bodies between that TT and my TRF with relative ease. He looked at me as if I just lit a cup of water on fire, and stammered he never thought about a TRF and a TT having their body posts in the same location. This got me thinking. At some point I discovered that the two holes in the bumper plate of a TT must have some purpose, and a bit of experimentation showed me that it's so you can get some body posts in there and have them be in the same location as their higher-end chassis'. What I also found, is that there is hardly any information about that on the internet. So I've decided to do a little research, and write an article about body posts. Tamiya touring car body posts, to be precise. Tamiya's first proper touring car was the TA01. Isn't she pretty? This car had its body posts on the shock towers, the strongest (and highest) point of the car, but because of the angle of the front shock tower this meant that the forward posts ended up roughly slightly to the rear of the the front axle. On the rear they end up a bit behind the rear axle. I'm not sure if this was arbitrary, or if someone actually put a bit of thought behind it (knowing Tamiya, the latter), but this is where they ended up. Keep your eye out for these, as they turned out to be the de-facto standard for many TCs to come. The TA01 soon was joined by the TA02... .. which had its rear shock towers on a completely different location. But notice how Tamiya made these cool little extensions for the posts? That's so they end up in pretty much the same spot as a TA01. Probably done to maintain backwards compatibility with the older body shells (which, presumably, were already drilled/dimpled for the TA01, let alone the interior sets which had specific cutouts to cater for the rear body posts). As a TA01 and 02 don't differ much up front, the front posts stay put. At this point I presume Tamiya felt they had to keep a standard going. Because when the TL01 was released it came with hatchback-style body sets, which don't really work with the rear body post locations they'd used up until then. So they moved them forward to cater for the higher roofs and steeper rear windows, ending up roughly above the rear axle instead of aft of it. But! Tamiya had to have something to maintain backwards compatibility with the bodies they already had on the TA01 and 02. At this point I can presume they knew they couldn't easily deviate from these locations. so the TL01 came with a different set of rear body posts, meant to be installed with certain bodies, which put the rear posts on the exact location needed for those. Also note how the front body posts (to the right of the photo above) are angled so they still end up above and slightly aft of the front axle, exactly where the TA01 and 02 have them. The TA03, in all its variants (F, R, RS, FS, etc) followed the logic of the TA01/2, and came with a set bent back to suit the rearmost body holes of the older bodies... ...and a set to suit the higher-roofed TL01-style bodies. (Not the best picture, but it was all I could find. Sorry.) The TB01, TA04, TA05, TA06, and TA07 all share the same rear post location as the TL01 first introduced, right above the rear axle. But with the TA04 TRF (and related TRF404x), something else was introduced: Note where the front body posts are! They're in the front bumper, as the holes in the shock towers are used to adjust upper shock location. With the TB02 and TB03 sharing a lot of TA-blood, this carried over, and the TA05, 06 and 07 all had the body posts right above the rear axle and in the front bumper. But does that mean that Tamiya had forgotten about the rear-facing posts? Not at all. With the introduction of the TT01, you had the option to build it with the mounts at the TL01 location, but also the TA01 location! At the front of a TT01, you're to attach the front body posts at the TA01 through 03 location, right above the front axle. But! The front bumper plate of a TT01 has two extra holes, which exactly end up at the TA04 location! Pretty sure this makes the TT01 or 02 one of the most versatile chassis in terms of body post location. The TT02 actually has a slightly more elegant solution for the rear-facing posts. On the 01 they make a bit of a weird bend over the shock tower, but the 02 has these nifty spacers, and allows the posts to be mounted from both ends of the tower. But is that all? As the rear of my battered GT86 shell still has a set of holes unaccounted for, no, it's not. There's a set of weird, outboard holes. Those were first used with the TRF415: This car has its roots in racing, and with racing you want to spread the downforce acting on the rear deck as equally as possible. Hence, two body posts on the rear shock tower, but further outwards than the TA01/TL01 posts. All the TRF cars since the 415 has had their rear posts there. See the first picture above this thread, and notice how much further outwards the rear posts on the TRF (the one on the left, duh) are. Have I missed anything? I'm purposely sticking to the TCs here, and not all the buggy/truck variants (TT02B/DF02/HMMWV) as then the list would probably never end. Do let me know below.
  4. for sale only. everything is new and never used. Tamiya 1:10 JTCC HKS Opel Vectra body shell with stickers, masking, spoiler/side mirrors and instructions. Tamiya 5-spoke wheels (white) +0mm offset. Tamiya slick tires with foam inserts. price is 80€ + shipment. pictures:
  5. Hi all, Have recently returned to the hobby after 25 years or so after my wife bought me a Hornet kit for my recent birthday. Never built my own as a kid - my dad built a Schumacher Cougar for me which I took racing briefly as a young-teen. However, after building the Hornet I'm now hooked and looking at additional purchases to expand the fleet! I definitely have Blackfoot, the mkII Escort and now the newly released mkVI escort on my list for the future, but have just won a fair example of an FF02 Peugeot 306 Maxi WRC on eBay. Chassis seems in reasonable condition by all accounts (don't pick it up until this evening), but the body has seen better days - it has had a fibreglass repair to the front and is in overall 'well-used' condition. Ideally, I'd like to buy a replacement shell that will simply be a straight fit. Not concerned about it being a 306, would be happy to put something else on. I'm a bit of a Ford nut so Focus would be ideal but will consider other nice-looking alternatives (Tamiya or non-Tamiya). I've spent some time trawling through the forum, other sites and the web in general and have only found limited info (mainly old posts). Are any of you experts able to advise of any off-the-shelf and readily-available alternative shells that are a perfect fit for the FF02 chassis? Thanks in advance
  6. Hey all, I've enjoyed reading the many threads in the forum. This body has a copyright 1987 and an arrow pointing to PS (styrene), not ABS. I'd like some advise as to what to do with this body. On the outer shell, it appears that there is that "chrome" top paint that's sold that isn't chrome at all. And some really rough, to the touch, green paint on the inside. It looks like marking paint to me. I did some wet sanding on the outer shell and it's very smooth. My thoughts are to get the outer shell wet sanded smooth a bit more, not touch the inside, and prime it inside and out for painting. I've read about Easy-off and other chemicals. I'd hate to ruin this thing. Thanks for the input.
  7. Hi everyone! I've seen that some people were struggling with mixing body color paint for Tamiya's Hyundai i20 bodyshell. I've just ordered one from Gmarket and while waiting for it to arrive I am considering some painting options. I'd like to stick with Hyundai's livery. I've been searching for appropriate body color because I don't have any option to mix colors as Tamiya recommending in body's manual. I stumbled upon a Tamiya PS-32 (corsa grey) and I'm curious about how does it look like in real life. I found some photos on the Internet but every one is different. Sometimes this corsa grey color is kinda blueish, sometimes it's greenish. Does anyone used PS-32 before and could help me to decide? This is the easiest option (for now) to paint body color but I'd like to hear some input from more experienced Tamiya PS paints users Thank you!
  8. I intend to use this body for speed runs. This body will eventually get destroyed. I am not going for perfection or master modeler status here. I got the body from SabulaTech on eBay. It was listed as an error body, and only cost $7.99 USD. The error on the body was at the bottom of the shell in the back, and I planned to cut that part off anyways. So, at that price, I figured why not experiment. I picked up two of this body and one of another style. My idea was to make it fit an M-chassis with a heat gun, and see what happens. Maybe there's something to learn here about reshaping poly-carbonate bodies. I may make a second attempt at this using a mold that I am working on from a block of wood. I do have plans to get an RM-01, so I may save the other error bodies that I got for that. Here's how the body sat on top of the M-05. The body is resting on the top of the shocks. I screwed the back of the body down to a board. I used random objects as spacers to keep the chassis from rolling backwards, which also kept it lined up with the wheelbase. I rested a somewhat heavy book on the uncut part of the shell. My idea was that the weight of the book would pull the body down as the heat gun softened the body. I used a damp towel to keep the heat from going where I didn't want it to go. I used the heat gun on a low setting and now know that this step was unnecessary because the heat wasn't that extreme. I made a video of the heat gun process showing the body coming down. The entire video was 12 minutes long. I shorted it down to about 3 minutes. The audio is off, but it's just the sound of a heat gun. When I was finished, the shocks were not too hot to hold. They had some heat, but nothing that would cause damage to the chassis. As I said, the heat gun was on low, which is rated at about 350 degrees. For the last few seconds, I did run it on high, but over a larger area. Here's how it looked afterwards. It now looks like a Sting Ray, which was the decider of my color choice. I expected the body to sit lower than it did once trimmed. I now know to pull the body down further if I am to attempt this again. I also expected it to melt down and bubble out in a much bigger area. I did not expect it to take the exact shape of the top of the shocks. I've started carving away at a block of wood that I may use as a mold for the second attempt. My thinking is that this will give a much bigger spread, rather than taking the shape of the parts around it. Trimmed: M-05 rear body mounts did not clear the body. I has some extra body mounts on hand, and drilled and screwed them into the rear bulkhead for the droop screws. The front mounts are M-05. And a quick spray of Tamiya Gun Metal paint. I'm going to run it like this and see how it does. If I can improve on it by making a front spoiler to get rid of some of that ground clearance, I may do so.
  9. Hi everyone, For sale is my Tamiya BMW Z3 M Roadster body shell and wheel set. It has a 239mm wheelbase (MChassis) and is now a very rare body set and wheels. The body is in used condition and the paint is flaking off. However, there don't appear to be any splits and the decals seem to be in great condition, so perhaps it could be re-painted! The wheels seem like new, there is lots of tread left and the rims are in nice condition. I'm after £25 + postage (ONO) Thanks, Sam.
  10. It's been a while since I built a Tamiya "fun" kit. Good thing I just won a NIB Desert Fielder TA02T on eBay. This will be my very first TA build. I'm looking forward to it. I have a few questions: What is the body that comes on this truck? Is it the S-10? Is it the Ford F-150? Or is it something else? I can't tell for certain from the photos. I ordered ball bearings right away. Are there any other upgrades I should start with? I'm going to use this as an on-road truck with maybe some light off-road, rally running. Thank you.
  11. Hi everyone, I'm after a HPI Mazda Miata/MX5 #7205 Body for my Tamiya M07. Open to anything, Sam
  12. Selling this off as it was sitting on shelf collecting dust. Good condition, small scratches where body pins sit, missing spotlights. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222597165697?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  13. There's a couple Pandora bodies that I want. Everywhere that I find them for sale (eBay and RCMart for example), the shipping charge is more than the body costs. $28.00 USD for a body, $32.00 USD to ship it. Has anyone gotten a Pandora body that can explain the high shipping charges? Does anyone know of a good place to get Pandora bodies where they don't cost so much to ship? Also, if you do have a Pandora body, can we see a picture of it? I haven't seen one that I didn't like.
  14. Hey Guys, I'm looking for the Tamiya 58170 Castrol Toyota Toms Supra GT body / bodyshell for such a long time. I want to have thei sbody / bodyshell. Has someone of you the body / bodyshell for sale? Whatever painted and finished or unpainted. Also I'm interested in parts like the stickers or wing-set. Please do offer all. Thanks.
  15. Hello, I’m refurbing and upgrading my old 90s Blitzer Beetle and have barely touched the hobby since back then so am a real novice. I’m looking at putting a lexan body on it (gone for kamtec baja) and I like the slightly more lowered look like the one in these pics: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=121529&id=13023. I know I can cut the rear mounting holes higher up the body, trim out space for the motor and trim back the wheel arches, but how can I lower the front mount? Is there an alternative Tamiya front mounting set which would fit the Blitzer Beetle which would allow much lower mounting? Or even, like my old mates used to do back in the day with their Schumacher/Losi buggies, is velcro somehow workable? And if so, isn't there a risk the glue it could melt/damage the paint or just tear it straight off? Many thanks for any help.
  16. As per the title really, looking for a body for my sons re built grasshopper (he is 3.5 years old) so I don't want to spend the £25-£30 for a new Grasshopper one(as thjis will be no doubt flipped and bumped into things etc), but seen that the Madbull bodies are around £10 brand new. Are these similar sizes? As I don't mind making custom mounts, just need to know from anyone if it would in theory fit. Many thanks James
  17. I am looking for a used Grasshopper body. I bought a used re-release GH on here a while back with the intention of stripping it down, cleaning it and rebuilding it for my son. Now he is 3.5 year old and taking a keen interest in my Monster Beetle, I thought it time to get the GH running, but don't want to spend £30 on a new body and decals that'll prob get wrecked. So I am looking for a decent used body (preferably with most decals on it) at a decent price Let me know what you have please. Many thanks James
  18. Ever thought to yourself: "I wonder what a Hotshot would look like if it was wearing a toga? Hmm..." Well, friend, wonder no more! BEHOLD...
  19. I am looking for a Tamiya Mitsubishi Lancer Evo V WRC Bodyset, new or used (good condition) Preferably boxart colours if in used condition. If you can let me know what you have, paypal money sitting waiting to be spent Thanks James
  20. Hi! I have a feeling I may be looking for something that doesn't exist anymore, but I figured it can't hurt to ask. Need a body for a M1025 "Hummer". If you have one that's serviceable please let me know.
  21. Hey guys - I'm starting to take stock of my pending Tamiya projects and parts and will be selling along some items that were for projects I don't have time for so I can work on a few projects as time permits. First off I have this nice Fox body + decal set straight out of a vintage NIB kit that I meant to use for a build. But I've already done several vintage Fox builds so I'm selling this along for $100 + free US shipping, at-cost global. Just the decals alone are worth almost that, so if you are interested I'd go snag it. It's up on ebay at this link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331654724292 Stay tuned for more over the coming weeks! BEEF
  22. Having a clear out of a few items I will more than likely never use again. So all in order, A well used Porsche 911 GT1 Body. Some yellowing and lifting of decals and a few bad front end splits that have been temp repaired. Ideal as a runner body. Secondly, is a used Technigold motor in original box. No insert etc, just the motor and box. Motor runs fine as I have tested it in my Madcap, a genuine increase in speed over the stock 540. Next is a set of 4 Porsche 911 GT1 Wheels fitted with inserts and Tamiya semi slick racing tyres. Wheels have been kerbed at the edges as you would say but have had their lip painted Tamiya Chrome Silver as per the box art. And lastly is a TA03R-S/F-S chassis tub along with low mount type front damper stay and short drive belt (not pictured) Ideal to convert a stock TA03R or F into the short wheelbase version, suited to the Porsche 911 GT1 and GT2 bodies. Prices are at the top of each picture and include uk postage. Overseas postage available on request and at cost. ALL SOLD !!!! James
  23. Rather than store/throw out old bodies, I repair them internally and use them for airbrush practice. Here's a recent one, most of it is painted except for the "Hornet racing Team" along the sides.
  24. HI, I have many parts for sale.........Used parts are like New. Please PM me with the list of what you need and i will get it for you! Regards
  25. So I have an Axial SCX10 and I'm looking to improve it's looks and fit another body shell. The obvious after market shells aren't that good I don't think and nothing really you would see in the UK so I'm looking for suggestions from you guys; clearly a scale Landy is the preferred choice but I can't see any that are under £50 and don't come from HK. Any suggestions would be welcome and if you know of any stockists please let me know. Cheers Mark
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