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So my SRB runner was built with a sport tuned motor. I burned the first motor years ago.. so when I replaced it, it went with the smaller spur pinion option. Today, my son was running it in the yard on grass.. after first pack I noticed it was warm.. a few minutes into second pack and car stopped. Motor was definitely hot and smelled crispy! Now a few years have passed between burnt motors but I recalled the old one stopped because one of the brushes had detached. So I looked in armature window and yep, same issue. So I’m now considering other motors options. I modded. Gear box years back to accept a standard brushed can and I’ve seen @Shodog 13t HW EZrun combo. im wondering if there are any other options?

In the market for a Sand Scorcher, Super Champ, Buggy Champ or any of the SRB cars. Project is ok. Re-Re is ok.

Couple of auctions here for some of these nice little replicas made by San-s about a decade ago. Boxed opened (and included), but model unbuilt and mint – as are the cute little leaflets. Buggy champ Frog

Hi, I am looking for: Tamiya RC Buggy Champ / Rough Rider NIB 58441 Will be built so box and blister condition not important. I am in the UK.

Lots of unused CRP, Thorp and JG part for the Tamiya SRB-chassis (and some other models) for sale. Most parts are without the original packaging, but were never installed and are basically in "as new" condition. Some scuff marks and similar "shelf wear" possible due to high age. Will of course send pics on request so you know the exact condition of what you get! - Aluminum roll-cages - Aluminum rear cages - Aluminum roof and front rollbar for single seater buggy bodies (ie. Rough Rider). (Requires the use of aluminum roll-cage) - Aluminum nerf bars for stock SRB chassis. - Aluminum nerf bars for SRB's with butterfly chassis - Coilovers for original shocks - Coilovers for red 1/8 Kyosho shocks - Rebuild kits for original dampers - Front stabilizers for original SRB front suspension - Front stabilizers for widened SRB front suspension - Rear stabilizers for CRP roll Cage. - Rear damper brackets for mounting 1/8 dampers on CRP roll cage - Extensions for front damper tower - Butterfly chassises - Chassis lowering plates - Ball diffs - Gold anodized aluminum outer wheels for Holiday Buggy tires - Silver anodized aluminum outer wheels for Holiday Buggy tires - Steering kits - Servo mounts - Wide and hardened tubes for front suspension (Gold anodized, but possibly also some silver anodized) - Hardened tubes for stock front suspension (Gold anodized) - Hardened steel rear wheel shafts with aluminum hubs for mounting Holiday Buggy wheels - Kydex bumpers for wider front suspension - Alternative Ratio 48dp spur gears with hubs. - And more. Send me a PM if interested in any of the listed items or if you're searching for CRP, Thorp or JG parts not listed. (don't have much of anything else than parts for the SRB-chassis though!)

I have found an original SRB! It was found dismantled in a shed at an estate sale, looks to be about 90% complete in terms of parts. The odd thing is that the gearbox seems to have some sort of glue sealing it, not much so opening it shouldn't be a difficult task. Would make a fantastic parts car or candidate for restoration. I found the electronics in a separate box, but unfortunately the wires seem to have been clipped. Unfortunate, but they are included if you would like to re-solder or rewire them. Bearings are also included for those that want to make this a running model. As expected the gearbox will need to be shimmed since it has clearly been sitting for a while. I have attached some pictures, and the rear dampeners and the pinion are included, they are just hidden in the chassis tub. Here are the image links: http://postimg.org/image/47u1ap9yv/ http://postimg.org/image/8i8p6af1z/ http://postimg.org/image/5bj7js0xj/ http://postimg.org/image/ak96kjd13/ Willing to let it go for 65$ plus shipping or trade for re-re kits or kyosho mini z optima, show us what you have to offer. The buyer will be responsible for the cost of shipping. I am located in the USA so shipping within the states shouldn't be to much since in this dismantled state it should fit in a large flat rate box. I always ship with a tracking number if possible. I am willing to ship the item out of country/over seas for my UK friends but the buyer will still be responsible for shipping costs. If a trade is made, we will each pay for the shipping of our own piece and we will provide tracking numbers. Otherwise, payments are to be made via paypal only. So let me know what you guys think, at this time not willing to part it out, if nothing happens here I'll just hold on to her.

I have most parts required to assemble roughly 120 SRB-chassises from original release used parts. (Typical fragile/quick wearing parts of course in (much) smaller quantities). From early to late production SRB's, including Super Champ. All defective parts have of course been discarded. Consider selling some parts as I have realized that life is too short to ever need them all. Send me a PM if interested in specific parts. Will send photos.

Does anyone have a matches pair of SRB / Buggy champ gearbox halves spare and for sale? This is for a beach runner so I am happy with later or re-re type, provided all the threads are good and the rear suspension arm holes aren't oval. Based in the UK but happy to buy WW. AlG

While recently playing with my Buggy Champ my rear tire came off in a vacant dirt field. Obviously the wheel nut wasn't tightened enough, but I discovered the small steel pin that goes through the rear shaft and fits inside the back of the wheel hub fell out, too, followed by the wheel hub. As a kid I didn't remember this happening to my Rough Rider, so I pulled it out and took a look at it and sure enough the wheel hub is permanently attached to the rear shaft. I'm curious... Why would Tamiya make this particular design change? To me, it would seem the old design is the better one for two reasons. 1) The hub and shaft/axle are one piece with no small parts to lose. Also, no extra loose play from the u-joint to the wheel. 2) With it being one piece, you're able to tighten the wheel nut much more, preventing the nut from loosening. On the new design, the nut can only tighten to a point before the wheel will no longer turn. So again, why this design change? I can't imagine it was to save money. -- Jeff

In the gearbox of a re-release Sand Scorcher or Buggy Champ, has anyone replaced the 2 nylon gears (the Final Gear and the Counter Gear) with stronger, metal-type gears? If so, where can I find these type of gears? I am not looking to go with the Hopup Differential but rather just replace the gears. -- Jeff