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Found 48 results

  1. The mini rough rider based on Tamiya 70112 is completed! It took about two weeks to make in total.It took quite a while to model and create the printed parts. The 3D printed parts cost me around £13 and the quality of the printed parts was pretty good, with a simple sanding and they were ready for painting. The electronics cost about £3 and printing stickers and other miscellaneous items cost £5 I made the chassis in 3 different materials: acrylic FRP and 6061 aluminum alloy. The finished effect was better than I imagined.I also customized a clear body,it looks quite good. I retained the very iconic front suspension assembly, battery box, and gearbox from the Tamiya 70112. This series allows people to understand the most basic structure,I also improved this kit on this basis. It is a pleasure to have a mini rough rider that can fit in the palm of your hand.
  2. Last evening when I was browsing through the online stores of my favorite Tamiya dealers, I asked myself why Tamiya has no better offering in modern day offroad buggys than the DF03 (I don't count the TT02BR as its basically a lower tier chassis). Hours later I realized that I had completely forgot about the TD4 and TD2. It seems like they failed miserably. I have seen the TD4 kit at 160 Euros in my country. I do understand that Tamiya is no more in the competitive offroad racing scene. I guess they want us to buy the nice Avante, Egress and Top Force kits and enjoy them. What are your thoughts on the current offroad lineup? Especially interestedin hearing about the TT02BR, the DF03. To me the just released Top Force at 170 Euros is currently the best Tamiya pick at price/performance.
  3. If you want to jump straight to ‘The Resurrection’ click the link below and in the meantime if you want to read the thread except my apologies for the lack of pictures. In the time I’ve been away both from here and Flickr my account has disappeared and all the pictures with it. I will attempt to add some back as I can but initially at least everything will be from the following link onwards. If you want to jump straight to the changes from buggy to truggy/truck and an explanation of sorts as to why jump straight to it here (sans pictures) ——— So as the title tells you I’m a total beginner at this so be gentle! I was unsure whether to do a build as I imagine it’ll be of little interest to the veterans, but maybe someone in my shoes at some point will come across it and find it of use. Here goes then. I’ve wanted an R/C on and off for years but never got round to it until now (is that a recurring adult theme?) It was a definite heart over head moment as I did virtually no research(!) and pretty much jumped straight in. I looked at a few RTR’s but beyond the ease of getting up and running and the possible initial reduced cost I wanted the build part. If I’m honest that’s the part that’s most appealing to me, at the minute at least. So from that I started looking at Tamiya kits and was initially looking at 4wd kits but then I came across @ThunderDragonCy build and was totally drawn in by the build and tweaks he had done and bit the bullet on a 2wd DT03 Racing Fighter. Thinking about it afterwards I feel that was the right choice. Although the 4wd kits are by the look of it more involved to build I feel they would be less fun in use, possibly too easy whereas the 2wd kits once built and running should be more fun/challenging to drive. Time will tell...plus I can buy a 4wd later! So to start I just bought the kit with the CVA shocks, ESC and Torque Tuned Motor, but nothing else beyond buying some bearings, although I did buy a couple more bits a few days later but I’ll detail those as they come up in the build. The plan is to research the rest, (servo/batteries/transmitter and receiver) as I go. I’m in no rush and at the moment have very limited time to build the car anyway (first clue for you all that this won’t be a quick build thread!) Nothing exciting at first but I’ll be sure to document any issues etc I come across as a novice builder and then later with use I’ll share any tweaks etc. And if you’ve made it this far, well done 😂 So then, to begin...
  4. Yes another toy grade conversion, or perhaps semi hobby grade conversion. A few weeks ago I picked up an interesting looking buggy on Ebay, a Radio Shack Black Wolf. From a first glance it looked very similar to the Nikko F10 chassis, which has a fair few fans here and is itself very similar to the Grasshopper. The cars are 540 powered, take a 7.2v pack and are fully proportional, so are pretty nice from the off, but can be improved with some tweaking. The car also came with a spare gearbox, body, tires and a few other parts, enough to potentially make two cars using some spares I had. I wanted to make something for my Nephew, so for £30 it seemed like a good deal. I When the car arrived it became apparent that although it was based on the F10 they were not made with the exact same moulds. Nikko and Taiyo produced many cars for Radio Shack and Tandy. Some of the cars are exactly the same, perhaps with a different body or stickers, but others like this one are very close, but not identical. However the Black Wolf and F10 are close enough that I should be able to swap parts from one to another without too much issue. So, on to the build: I started with the gearbox first. The good thing about these cars is that they take modern ball bearings, so I was able to replace all the nylon bushings with proper ball bearings, including inside the gearbox. The car takes 11x5x4 and 10x5x4 bearings, and they really make a difference compared to 30 year old bushings! I then replaced the old motor with a 540 Silver Can - the Tamiya pinions attached to them were identical, so that was a plus too. Looking at the gearbox I noticed some damage. There is a tab that stops the gearbox rotating too far back, either on acceleration or when the car leaves the ground. The shocks on this car are simple springs and work under compression, but simply pop open under tension offering no resistance. This means every time the car jumps or accelerates this tab bangs hard against the back of the chassis. This was clearly a serious design flaw as both tabs were cracked and lifting up, allowing dirt into the gearbox as well as failing to really work. I tried to glue them, but a glued plastic part is rarely as strong, and kept on popping off so I gave up. I then decided to glue again, clamp for ages and then trim off the tab completely You can see here where the tab was on the left hand side of the the pivot. I've tried to hide it, but can only do so much. The main thing is it is sealed. So, this was all fixed, but now when you lift up the car the rear end falls out and the springs pop out. A simple solution involved using an oven hob to get the rear springs hot. These were then pushed into the red cups, partially melting them and making a very strong bond. This means the springs are now attached to both ends, meaning they can work under tension too. Now the rear end is attached to the car, even if you pick it up. Next step, onto the electronics...
  5. joeling

    Tekno !

    Started racing these this year. Painted some body shells 10th scale buggy 8th scale buggy
  6. I have recently gotten really interested in a car or buggy that will make me excited to drive it and that i even enjoy looking at.I like the neo fighter buggy (dt03),subaru brat (it is a very quirky rc car) and the vqs (comes with good parts and has a good chassis design).Keep in mind that im looking for a fun rc car.The neo fighter and brat are within my price range,but im really interested in the vqs to,which is a bit more expensive.Help me decide on one!
  7. My club has so many classes. Perfect excuse to acquire more kits This is the Yokomo SO 1.0 2WD buggy. Modified (Xerun 160A esc + 6.5T motor)
  8. Associated Trophy Rat 2WD buggy RTR £230 Inc free UK shipping for TC/forum member. Element Gatekeeper builders kit, Inc beadlock wheels and tyres (not provided when shop bought) £230 Looking to free up some cash PayPal gift please
  9. *apologies to NJ’s second favourite son JBJ for the title* But man was I Livin’ on a Prayer hoping to find anything in stock in these difficult times, seems like any Tamiya kit is Wanted Dead or Alive. But when hope was lost I Kept the Faith and Fusion restarted their webshop coming though with the Aqroshot like a Blaze of Glory. Selling the Top Force was Bad Medicine but getting this basher is sweeter than a Bed Of Roses. I Regret Nothing.
  10. After finishing my DT-03 Bug-Truck, which is basically a DT-03T with a beetle shell and offroad tires, and after taking this picture with the Racing Fighter and the Neo Scorcher, I thought about giving the Bug a 4WD brother.
  11. Not sure this qualifies for Build or Design Thread. After watching The Grand Tour's VW Beach Buggies, i've decided to make a similar replica of Richard's modified Beach Buggy :-) Here's where I am starting with a Holiday Buggy on a DT-02, not going to make too scale. Just some modification that makes it looks a bit scale -ish.. list of things done so far... 1) full lights 2) Animated Driver, head and arms on steering wheel 3) roll-cage. similar ?
  12. Continued some work for a project I started on years ago, the Baja Surf Buggy. This is another of my favourite projects, which is based on an orginal Sand Scorcher (I have no re-re cars in my collection), but it was upgraded with lots of great custom parts made by various TC members. One detail that was fun to make, was the 1:10 Kelly Slater Channel Island/Al Merrick replica I scratch built. I'll update with current pics soon, as the board has some more missing decals, and the actual car has some RR wheels & alu rims. Next up will be paint and some more custom designed parts. There are others roof racks that looks sexier, but I wanted to make one that is widely used... The first preview of the project can be viewed http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=76974&sid=610'>here. ​ The first custom part I've started designing, is a roof rack for the surfboards (I've already made a 3D printable version surfboard also). I based my design on a traditional VW bug rack - for you VW purist, please correct me, as the rack is probablt not made by VW? I plan to print the rack frame in metal, and screw in the wood with some tiny screws I ordered from eBay. Reference pic of the rack: Work in progress: ​ ​ I will update this project as it continues now...
  13. Morning guys and girls. As many are aware Tamiya never made a buggy based on the TB-01 Chassis, they did how ever make a truggy based on it (but i wasnt aware of that before i decided to undertake this project). Plan. Take my TB01, add some wide arms, taller shock tower on the rear, throw on some suspension and see what happens. Whilst trying to use only Tamiya parts. The actual outcome. 1st job. Find a set of suspension arms that will fit. After some advice from XVPilot on arm widths, i decided the cheapest option was to go for TL-01B arms. But rather than buy just the arms. I bought a complete doner vehicle and stripped it for all the bits. Pics will follow and ill update throughout the day.
  14. OK so this question is actually in relation to my Kyosho Beetle but since it's about 2.2" buggy tyres I'm sure it's perfectly relevant to any buggy! I've just got hold of some 2.2" Turbo Scorpion wheels for my Beetle which I'm going to use for running thanks to the wider range of tyres available at a lower cost! This is where I struggle a little as there's no so much choice! What I'm after is something that is decent enough on broken asphalt and loose gravel (basically the lane behind my house). I'm no racer so I'm not after balls out performance just something durable and reasonably grippy. Apologies if this has been asked a million times before (what tyre threads on push bike forums are always cringe fests!) Thanks!
  15. Hi, I’m wondering if someone can explain what are the main differences between the TRF201XM and TRF211XM please. I know the TRF201XM has the aluminium chassis while the TRF211XM has the FRP chassis. Am I also right in assuming that the aluminium racing steering set 42258, the aluminium rear uprights (54245 and 54246) and various other hop ups for TRF201 can also be used on the 211XM? Many thanks Justin
  16. Hi, I’m wondering if someone can explain what are the main differences between the TRF201XM and TRF211XM please. I know the TRF201XM has the aluminium chassis while the TRF211XM has the FRP chassis. Am I also right in assuming that the aluminium racing steering set 42258, the aluminium rear uprights (54245 and 54246) and various other hop ups for TRF201 can also be used on the 211XM? Many thanks Justin
  17. Hey guys! I am currently looking into rebuilding and modifying my old Fighter Buggy RX for some track use (obviously wont be competitive) and for some general light bashing too but i am too unsure of what tires I should use? (Sticking with standard buggy tire size) The surface would mainly be some pavement, light grass, gravel / dirt. I was looking at the Proline tires Front : Proline 4 Rib M3 Compound Rear : Proline Holeshot M3 Compound Or Schumacher cactus / others. The problem is, the DT01 chassis isnt great.. And I just want slightly better grip tires for her to handle without constantly rolling over from having too much high grip, what do you guys think / recommend? Also, i should point out Im not a fan of the carson tires.. I know they are decent and all terrain but the look is 🤮.
  18. This arrived to me from Hong Kong on 27/4/16 I bought it from Jazrider on eBay. Huge update and more pictures tomorrow.
  19. Just thought I'd show off my newly built Neo Scorcher. Bought from eBay, in Metallic Pink. It's got several hop ups and several more on the way. It's mainly for bashing, but the wife has ok'd it for shelf use. So the body, wheels and shocks will be coming off to stay looking pretty. The electrics are stating fairly standard, might swap out to a brushless motor, but I'll be keeping with NiHM batteries or possibly some LiFe ones. Hop ups are:- Jazrider - Alloy steering, alloy prop, alloy prop cups and bearing set. Tamiya - Alloy motor mount (to be fitted), FRP rear shock tower, FRP front tower (on order) heat sink (also on order) Runner body will be another Neo Scorcher, with FTX wheels.
  20. Hi, I recently bought a TRF801Xt in near new condition with an electric conversion set. These machines were designed and built in the USA by Tamiya USA in an attempt to enter the highly popular 1:8 truggy market and racing scene in the States. Here in Europe however, it didn’t catch on and maybe wasn’t even ever released officially. Anyhow, I got one and it’s huuuuugggeee! Haven’t run it yet, still waiting for the ESC and motor, but in anticipation on those parts I began a hunt for spare parts. Tamico do have some official replacement parts on stock, but that’s about the only supplier in the EU it seems... However, because the design is very much based on other existing, sometimes very succesful truggy designs there may be the possibility of interchangeable parts amongst types and/or brands. I already found some tips online; - The arms are of the same dimensions as the Xray XT8 arms. The hubs will not fit however, so you need those as well. The Xray arms work with the standard CVA driveshafts apparently. The Xray arms are much more durable. - With the Xray XT8 arms you can use the Kyosho ST-RR hubs apparently. - The shock bladders are leaky and not up to the task. The Losi LOSA5430 bladders are a 1:1 fit and are far better. - The shockboots from Losi also seem to fit. No part nr known to me. I’m still looking for some other interchangeable parts, like: - spur gear (center diff gear) - shockshaft o-rings (3,5 mm?) - bodies - skid plates - shocks in general There are so many truggies out there that SEEM almost exactly the same, so there MUST be some interchangeability amongst them. Who can help make this thread a go-to place for every TRF801X(t) enthousiast who’s looking for a reasonably priced way to keep their truggy running?
  21. Buggy has been sold
  22. So ... I'm think it of selling my buggy collection as I only really collect cars, but somehow have managed to aquire 5 buggies. Any thoughts on values, sell individual or job lot etc. Bigwig has box, esc and receiver Blazing Star has esc and receiver Boomerang has original MSC and receiver Grass Hopper 2 has original MSC and receiver Thunder Shot has original MSC and receiver I probally have instructions for the big wig. All are used, but I believe are complete and all have servos (1 or two depending on set up). The Thunder Shot is missing the head of the driver. Your thoughts are much appreciated.
  23. So... finally getting around to my GMADE GOM GR01 build. Just started today, and I'll post up progress as I go along. Follow this build on YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnWfHyV3LtMDMZgIz1Muh2tDJhRxhYztU As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase from the links below. Build Details: GMADE GOM GR01 Rock Buggy Kit GMADE GOM Sway bar set (Titanium gray) GM30115 (available on eBay) GMADE GR01 Aluminum rear shock brace (Titanium gray) GM30080 (available on eBay) GMADE GR01 Aluminum slipper plate GM30073 (available on eBay) GMADE GA60 Brass steering knuckle bushing (4) GM30076 (available on eBay) GMADE GR01 Machined M4 99mm Upper Link (Titanium gray) GM30105 (available on eBay) GMADE GR01 Aluminum trailing arm (Titanium gray) GM30107 (available on eBay) GMADE GR01 Aluminum HI/LO Shift Fork GM30087 (available on eBay) GMADE GA60 CVA kit GM30062 (available on eBay) GMADE GR01 Aluminum Skid Plate (Titanium Gray) GM30111 (available on eBay) JunFac GA60 Aluminum Panhard Bar Axle Mount (Titanium Gray) J30009 (available on eBay) JunFac Hardened Universal Shaft for GMADE GOM Rock Buggy J90036 (available on eBay) GMADE Aluminum Shock Upper Ball 8x8.5mm Red GM0020095 (available on eBay) Vanquish 25T Aluminum Servo Horn (available on eBay) Pro-Line 2.2 Single Stage Rock Crawling Foam (for use with stock GMADE MT-2202 Tires) Pro-Line 2.2 Dual Stage Closed Cell Crawl Foam (for use with Pro-Line Hyrax 2.2 Tires) Motor: Brushed - Traxxas Titan 21T Brushless - SkyRC Ares Pro 540 Modified 8.5T (4100Kv), or Holmes Hobbies PULLER PRO BL 540 STANDARD (3500kv) Electronics: Hobbywing WP-1080 Brushed ESC Or Castle Creations Mamba X FlySky R6B 2.4GHz 6-Channel Receiver FlySky GT-3C 2.4 GHz Radio Savox SC-1283SG Servo - (for steering) Savox SC-0254MG Servo - (for shifting) Tools / Materials: Versachem Brake Caliper Grease 45 in 1 Precision Screwdriver Set Hakko FX-888D Soldering Station Tamiya Side Cutter DEWALT DCF610S2R 12V MAX Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/4 in. Hex Chuck Screwdriver Kit MIP Metric Speed Tip Set MIP9512 Noleen SF3 Grease (on eBay) Tamiya PS-30 Brilliant Blue Tamiya PS-5 Black Upgrades on the way JunFac Hardened Steel 32P 16T 1st gear (LO) (J30020) (available on eBay) JunFac Hardened Steel 32P 35T 1st gear (LO) (J30021) (available on eBay) JunFac Hardened Steel 32P 21T 2nd gear (HI) (J30022) (available on eBay) JunFac Hardened Steel 32P 30T 2nd gear (HI) (J30023) (available on eBay) JunFac Hardened Steel 32P 22T Transfer Case Gear (J30024) (available on eBay) JunFac Hardened Steel 32P 40T Transfer Case Gear (J30025) (available on eBay) JunFac Hardened Steel 32P 40T Transfer Case Dig Gear (J30026) (available on eBay) Gmade GOM JunFac GA60 Aluminum Straight Axle Adapter Gray Set RC Cars #J30011 (available on eBay)
  24. I have been pondering something for a while and thought I'd throw it out to the community to see if anyone out there actually had an answer one way or another. The question is this: Do the wings on 1/10 RC buggies actually do what they are supposed to do, namely generate a noticeable quantity of downforce? This question needs a bit of qualification as some wings – see those on buggies like the Boomerang, Hotshot, Hornet and the like – are clearly just there for aesthetic reasons, as there is no way that their shape and size could possible generate anything useful in the way of downforce. I was looking at the cars featured in the report on the Romsey '87 Worlds which @a.w.k. posted recently and it is possible that the big, gated bucket wings on some of the competitors might have had some effect, especially since they would have been fitted to cars much quicker, lighter and better balanced than your average Tamiya backyard basher. But then again, 1/10 buggies will generally have the drag coefficient of a grand piano and operate on rough surfaces that make aerodynamics very much a secondary requirement after mechanical grip, so will anything added to them make any difference? I have seen special bodies for US oval racers which feature slippery sports car-type shapes, kick-up rear wings and big transparent Lexan air dams on either side to harness the air flow over the car and almost force it to generate downforce. Given the smooth surfaces these cars race on and the high speeds they attain, this seems viable, if aesthetically ugly. But I have my suspicions that 1/10 buggy wings are purely there for show. Removing them would certainly change the car's handling, but this would happen if you removed any sizeable object mounted that far above the car's centre of gravity. On the Worlds cars in the article mentioned earlier, it could be that they served no function except acting as banners for sponsors, much like the airboxes on F1 cars, which are there purely because they are the most obvious surfaces on the car and therefore provide the most valuable advertising real estate. The wire wing mounts on most of those cars would also flex so much under load and vibration that they would surely render the attached wing almost useless. Has anyone ever tested a 1/10 buggy in a wind tunnel? Does anyone here know or have a good idea if the wings have any real effect?
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