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Found 24 results

  1. I want to build a blackfoot on the hot tricks chassis. If anyone have one please let me know. Thanks
  2. Hello everyone, this is my first post to this great forum. Vive Tamiya! I’m looking to build an XV-01 or XV-02 chassis. TBH, I don’t have a suitable off-road location close at hand to visit regularly enough. So it’s tarmac for me. Even though the XV-01 is reputed to edge out the XV-02 in tarmac handling excitement and really tempts me, it’s the growing plentifulness and better pricing of parts for the XV-02 that is hard to ignore. I see the new XV-02RS PRO variant is available. It’s priced lower than the original XV-02 and yet…it seems to be a step up with the inclusion of more upgraded parts??? Am I reading that right? Is it better equipped than the original?
  3. I hope I don't sound like a complete idiot for asking this (because I'm sure the Tamiya designers/engineers put these here for a purpose), but nonetheless would it be okay if I covered up all those holes scattered around the Lunch Box (and Pumpkin) chassis? In addition to the sizeable circular hole in the bottom-middle of the chassis (which is centered directly above the battery compartment) there are about a dozen other little holes that I can't find any use for. See my attached pic where I have circled these (I'm not including the suspension holes, the on/off switch space, the servo space, or the gap for the engine wires, and I understand that at least one of these are for the antenna). I'm asking because I want to waterproof and sand-proof the chassis as much as possible as I will primarily be driving my Lunchbox at the beach and in sand dunes. As for the actual covering up, I was thinking of using a hot glue gun and/or duct tape. Other suggestions appreciated!
  4. Hello I just purchased my first RC car which is the Quick Drive 2001 Subaru 1:10 scale . I was wondering if I could chasis swap it to a better performing chassi with minimal hassle. I want to use this car on the dirt in more rally conditions with jumps. Anything helps thanks in advance
  5. I'm looking for a +-260mm wheelbase chassis that's compatible with M chassis rims. I'm currently using a TT-01 for truck bodies and the Tamiya M sized truck wheels but want to use something a bit more driveable, like a TRF or TB Evo chassis, no plastic bathtub. Doesn't have to be a recent chassis either. I don't really think there are any but i just want to make sure before i scrap the idea, but i'd love to be proven wrong!
  6. Anyone know what this is? It's part of a job lot I'm picking up tomorrow. Thanks in advance
  7. Hi All, NooB question, which is faster, a Touring RC chassis car or a Formula 1 RC chassis car? Assuming same track, same driver, similar equipment in both cars. Thank you!
  8. All BRAND NEW & UNOPENED. Why I’m selling: Returning to a 90 hour a week job has left me with no time, so I’m selling my TRF419XR as well an extensive and, in some cases, extremely rare, collection of upgrades that took months to source. What you see includes some almost unavailable and therefore very rare items that took hours of obsessive work to collect. Knowing how hard it was to gather this collection means it’s for someone who wants all options available for the amazing TRF419XR, so I’m sorry to say, I will not be willing to split it. I wish to return around 80% of what it all cost me, so any purchaser is not only benefiting a reduction in retail price, but also from the reduced purchase hose prices from buying abroad, which I had to do to finish this collection but from the hours and hours it took to gather everything. Moving on: The main upgrade included in the bundle is the TRF420 Suspension upgrade. To prove how extensive the bundle is, it also comes with the rear Toe Control Rear Suspension Set for the TRF420. Also included is the correct 3mm TRF drill bit to ream out the arms, and I even managed to find the unique carbon fibre alternative arm connectors that are only available with the actual TRF420 kit! That wasn’t easy. Before we get to the collection: I’m also selling a complete (and I mean complete) TRF Tool Set to go with it, as well as some top line professional equipment, please see my other listings for full details. However, to wet your appetite, here’s a few of them so you get the idea as to the level of what else is for sale: **THE FOLLOWING ITEMS ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THIS BUNDLE BUT AVAILABLE SEPARATELY. HOWEVER, THEY WERE BOUGHT TO GO WITH THIS KIT SO I WILL DISCOUNT ANYTHING BELOW BY 20% IF BOUGHT BY WHOEVER BUYS THIS BUNDLE** - A Complete Tamiya TRF tool set - - Futaba T7XC Transmitter - - Futaba HPS-CB700 Brushless Servo - - Team Orion Vortex R10.1Brushless ESC - - Team Orion Vortex DSB-R Program Box - - SkyRC T200 Duo AC/DC 12A Charger - - Intellect LiPo LiHV 2S 1000mAh 7.6v Batteries (2 available) - - TRF Trolly Bag - + more..... ** THE ABOVE ITEMS ARE AVAILABLE SEPARATELY. ** I WILL DISCOUNT ANYTHING ABOVE BY 20% IF BOUGHT BY WHOEVER BUYS THIS BUNDLE** (Please see my other listings for full details) AGAIN THESE ITEMS ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THIS BUNDLE Finally, here’s the list of what’s included in this rather unique bundle: **TO BE CLEAR, THE FOLLOWING IS EXACTLY WHAT’S INCLUDED IN THIS BUNDLE: TAMIYA: - 42316 - TRF419XR Racing Chassis - 54886 - TRF420 Suspension Upgrade Set - 54887 - TRF420 Toe Control Rear Suspension Set - 1980322 - (unique) Carbon Fibre Arm Connectors - 42303 - TRF 3mm Straight Reamer - 54413 - Aluminium High-Efficiency Roll Damper - 42325 - Aluminium Gear Differential Case - 42310 - 37T Aluminium Differential Pulley - 42309 - 37T Aluminium One-Way Pulley - 3454938 - Drive Pulley Assy (Blue) - 3454936 - Main T-Pulley (Blue) - 53906 - 5x5mm Alumium Hex Head Ball Connectors X2 - 53907 - 5x8mm Aluminium Hex Head Ball Connectors X3 - 54648 - Flurine Coated Stabilizer Ball Connector Set - 42327 - 5x 3x6mm Hi-Grade Aluminium Hex Head Screws (Blue) X5 - NAR-306TB - 3x 3x6mm Hi-Grade Aluminium Hex Head Screws (blue) (by SQUARE) X3 - 42329 - 5x 2x8mm Hi-Grade Aluminium Hex Head Screws (Blue) X3 - 42330 - 5x 3x8mm Hi Grade Alu C/Sunk Hex Head Screws (Blue) X3 - 42328 - 5x 3x6mm Hi Grade Alu C/sunk Hex Head Screws (Blue) X3 - 53773 - 5x 3x10mm C/sunk Hex Head Screw (Blue) X1 Moody Fools: - 1509786741 - 6x 3x8mm C/sunk TITANIUM Hex Head Screws - 1509786741 - 38x 3x6mm C/sunk TITANIUM Hex Head screws Back to Tamiya: - 53646 - Wheel Spacer (Blue) X3 - 54863 - Aluminium Hi-Torque Servo Saver Cap (Blue) - 42248 - Aluminium Direct Servo Horn (Tamiya/Futaba) (Blue) - 54862 - 4x Aluminium Servo Screws (Blue) - 42224 - 04 Module Hard Coated Alu Pinion Gear (25T) - 42229 - 04 Module Hard Coated Alu Pinion Gear (30T) - 42269 - 04 Module Hard Coated Alu Pinion Gear (39T) - 42201 - Glass Tape (15mm x 50m) (Blue) 3RACING: - M04M-07/LB Aluminium Motor Heatsink With Cooling Fan (Blue) TOTAL COST TO ME £ 1,420.00 The following items are FREE: - 42250 - Maintenance Mat (1250x600mm) Black with TRF logo (opened to be used in my photos, but unused otherwise. - DTDR01001B - Hobbt Details Aluminum Magnetic Body Mount Set for 1/10 Drifting Cars Set A Type Black DTDR01001 Aluminium (Blue) - Aluminium Adjustable Magnetic head for Body Mount (Blue) - Velcro in Blue to match Tamiya Blue - Zip Ties in Blue to match Tamiya Blue - A4 Carbon Fibre Self Adhesive Sticker Sheet (it is in the image, but hidden under all the parts in the top right of the image) The FREE items cost me around £50 Dispatched with Hermes Tracked.
  9. Happy to pay AUD$40, posted to Melbourne, Australia. This is US$28, €24, NZD$43, CAD$37, £22. I'm feeling impatient, and this is about 30% more than it would have cost if I could be bothered to wait for any of the HK stores to have it back in stock.
  10. Hi, I am currently looking for a custom alloy / carbon chassis for the WR01/WT01 Chassis. I have had one before which I regrettably SOLD with my Wild Dagger Project (I know silly thing to do) Does anyone have one for sale? Or know someone who makes them? Or possibly have a Template to build one myself they could share? (Picture of my old WR01 Project) Many Thanks S
  11. Hi, I own an old Vanquish I plan to restore. Unfortunately I have some problems with the front tower - the holes in the chassis to fix that are broken. Any advise on what to do? Thanks a lot
  12. Hi folks, Long time no see, hoping this message finds you all well. Ending this Sunday the 1st of December 2019 It is time to part with some of my much loved Tamiya Gems, it's short notice i know, but hopefully they will go to the right collector /enthusiast, these items will be sold to the highest bidder, if you win you are welcome to collect from Leeds Ls11 or they will be extremely carefully packed, fully insured and will need to be signed for on delivery. Very best of luck and big thanks Chris and Tamiya club. Kindest regards, Twisty (AKA Simon F) https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/anchordriver/m.html?item=184051509515&hash=item2ada53290b%3Ag%3AaD8AAOSwbXpdqyQU&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
  13. Hello everyone, I am a new member of TC. I would like to know (In your opinion) what Tamiya chassis has more users, parts and hop-ups. TT02 Maybe? Thank you very much, I hope to learn a lot here.
  14. Hi all! I am new here and just recently got back to the RC hobby. Just a few days ago I bought 2 Tamtech Porsches, a Jägermeister and a Vaillant Edition, simply because I really like te 1/12 scale and think those two models are two of the most beautiful onroad models ever by Tamiya. Both cars are not in perfect condition, however the bodies themselves are put together well enough for me to consider putting them on display in my living room. The bodies are well made, not nearly perfect but without any huge errors. There are some lines not perfectly on the right spot at the back fender for example but I can live with that as it is a self assembled body and chassis anyway. I probably wouldn't have built it better. Both models look quite good and after cleaning them yesterday I thought about putting them in their final spot for the first time. There is a huge issue though. When cleaning the bodies and chassis I realized both smell terribly. And I mean old chain smoking granny levels of bad. When I wiped the bodies just with a wet microfiber cloth it turned from white to this yellowish/brownish color you might have seen when you smoke a cigarette through a handkerchief. The bodies after being wiped a few times don't really smell anymore, maybe a bit like soap but I am fine with that since I used a bit to help cleaning :D Both chassis are a whole other story. I rubbed and wiped and used Q-tips the whole day yesterday and still they stink like ***. I simply can't have them that way in my living room. Now here is the question. What can I do to get rid of the smell? I will most likely have to take apart both chassis anyways since one probably has a broken diff ( I think using a tuning motor, and a cheap one at that wasn't a good idea of the previous owner) and some other parts are broken like the back body holder of one model. I won't really use the models for driving, I want them to be in driveable condition however. If there is a way to get rid of the smell for now I would gladly take advice though without having to disassemble them completely. I was thinking maybe stripping the models off their electronics and putting them in the dishwasher at a low heat program could help, any experience with that? I would really take any possible adivce, maybe stuff like Febreze works? It is currently really good weather in Europe so going out is a bit more tempting then cleaning old RCs. Besides that I would like to soon build a Blackfoot 2016 (I hope this is a decent start to get into monster trucks or something fun and useable) to bash around in grass and forrests and a bit down by the river. I can't drive the Tamtechs anyway currently since I don't know of any onroad track close to where I live. Any advice?
  15. The awesome new Tamiya M-07 Concept car has one flaw. There is a hole on the bottom of the chassis, said to allow access to the pinion screw, that has the potential to allow dirt and pebbles into the transmission. This would wreak havoc on the gears. Tamiya provides aluminum glass tape to cover the hole. Unfortunately, the tape peels off after the first run or two as the chassis bottoms out on the ground. I created this plug to close the hole and keep debris out of the transmission. Unlike the tape, this plug is reusable. I suggest you purchase at least two plugs so that you have at least one spare in the event that it gets lost or misplaced. You can even share with your friends that run the M-07. https://www.shapeways.com/product/SEVSZVNE6/tamiya-m-07-concept-chassis-plug?optionId=63334527
  16. Hi, this is my first post here. I just figured I'd share this with the world, since I haven't seen any of those mods anywhere else. If you're only interested in seeing what and how, feel free to skip the next lines and check out the links below (hope that's allowed?). A quick rundown on this trucks history. I got it as a birthday present when I was 14. It was a dream come true and was quickly tossed in the corner for the next 13 years or so to come. I finally dug it out several years ago to strip it of its body which I ran on a Savage 25 a couple of times. Not a good idea, so I put it back where I found it. Over the years I did spend at least some time with the Blackfoot, however, and every time I ended up somewhat disappointed with the driving experience. The suspension was too stiff, unwilling and generally awkward. The worst part to me has always been the steering and it always spoiled the fun with its wobbly behaviour and useless layout (no offence). Anyways... I recently found myself having a brushless Racestar motor/ESC combo and 9kg digital servo lying around - both new since I only ever ran them a couple of times on another RC. On top of that I also had 4 Savage X shocks left. Yesss, you read that right! So I decided to put all of it to good use and revive my very first RC car after its 18 year slumber. That said, I just couldn't leave the steering the way it was - I mean the inner tie rod ball-joint positions are just ridiculous! What were you thinking, Tamiya? (Haha still no offence). Now, long story short. I decided to rework the poor front suspension geometry and throw in all the goodies I mentioned above into the mix for good measure. This here is the result so far. I've got more mods lined up - but I'm not telling. The facia is missing because this way the truck looks freakin evil! You can check out some pictures of the mods under this link: https://goo.gl/photos/F2X7zgJy7UHNmhmC6 Here's a (very) short video of the steering setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2PTnfTFsFQ Here's the first ever trial run - you are witnessing something here! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leMEaFB_w5M I'm not going to bore everyone and their dog by listing everything I did and parts and electronics I used. Just ask if you want to know or see anything specific.
  17. Does anyone know where I can get a chassis cover for a Holiday Buggy 2010? Thanks :-)
  18. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?id=39840&cid=120047&t=815201645907 - Sealed NIP Vintage Fox Chassis - Sealed NIB Vtg Front Stabilizer Set - Sealed NIP Vtg Fox Gearbox Sprue - Sealed NIP Vtg Fox Rubber Parts Bag - Sealed NIP Novafox Driver Z Parts $60 + 10 postage (US) or at-cost (non-US)
  19. Totally forgot I even had this, but going through some R/C stuff etc and found it. As can be seen its a used set of FRP chassis plates for the shorter TA03F/S,R/S chassis cars, along with almost everything for the conversion. I will also include the plastic parts that the steering arms attach to (it is currently on a shelf queen) and also the lower gearbox plate for the R/S chassis (not pictured as its currently being cleaned and degreased) . Also included is a Tamiya aluminium 15T pulley for the TA03 and some sort of after market green alloy damper stay. The battery holder parts are slightly damaged, one of the posts had snapped and has been glued and the battery end plate has also been cut slightly. The chassis plates are showing signs of use as it was used on a runner so they are scraped and scuffed. Also not pictured but I will include as much of the counter sunk and normal screws as I can. Ideal for someone looking to convert a runner into the FRP chassis. No idea whats its worth so say, £35 posted? James
  20. As above, i am after a DB01RR chassis tub. Thought i would try here before buying from Japan. Thanks James
  21. I traded a few of my aluminum cnc sand scorcher chassis to my friend and he posted two of them for sale on ebay. this one is machined on the top and bottom, it took about 2.5 hours on my little cnc machine. Also I sand blasted it for a matt finish http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Tamiya-Sand-Scorcher-VW-Chassis-plate-Aluminum-NEW-USA-Scale-Custom-TRF-SRB-/121789807050?hash=item1c5b3cf9ca:g:6QEAAOSwwbdWIYsg This one is machined on the top only and the screw holes for the radio box are counter sunk. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Tamiya-Sand-Scorcher-VW-Chassis-plate-Aluminum-NEW-USA-Scale-Custom-TRF-SRB-/121789805135?hash=item1c5b3cf24f:g:GWIAAOSw5ZBWIYdO This is what they look like mounted, They can mount in the regular spot or they can be attached above the mount tabs. They are 1/8 thick aluminum. I test fit each one the holes line up perfect.
  22. Anyone after a TA-02 chassis? Here is mine on the eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231426581150?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 No wheels or tires, or receiver crystal... but DOES come with stock motor, Accoms receiver, steering servo and Tamiya TEU-101Bk speed controller. Will also throw in a spare stock motor and a 3000mAh Ni-MH battery. Go take a look... if you can... please?
  23. HI, I have many parts for sale.........Used parts are like New. Please PM me with the list of what you need and i will get it for you! Regards
  24. Hi Guys, here i´m back ....i´ve posted my project a few month ago on my Tamiyaclub-Showroom ... till i got the following Mail .... Unfortunately, your recent entry to Tamiyaclub.com has been removed by a moderator who, after careful consideration has decided it was in breach of the club rules. Your subscription fee allows you to use this area of the site but with the restriction all entries must comply to the rules you agreed to when signing up for the club. In this instance your entry... - Realistic Cockpit - Display Chassis - Part III - Please use the forums for updates to these CAD drawings, not the showrooms Thanks Sorry for that ... i really wouldn´t anger anyone neither brake any rules....i just wanted to share my interresting project with other TC-Members. But after a time of beiing offended i´m back here to keep you all guys up to date......and now on the FORUM. Waiting for your appreciated comments. Many thanks to all. RCFUZZY BMW M3 - Realistic Cockpit - Display Chassis - Part I This is my Prototype of a Realistic Cockpit for my BMW M3 Schnitzer. It was always a wish to build this, if i had time space It will be for my Display-Chassis (Shelf-Queen). to be continued .......but only if you are interrested
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