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Found 26 results

  1. Hello all, I double bought some unneeded items and am selling them at cheaper than ebay prices. TA Silver B parts $25 TA Blue Alloy Gear Cover by Yeah Racing $20 DB01 Blue Alloy Rear Knuckle Arms $5 Hotshot Front wheels $5 Shipping is $7 priority for the TA silver parts and $2 apiece for the others in US. Anyone international interested, pm me and I can get a shipping quote. I will sell the bundle for $40
  2. Here is a DB01 with a custom light kit i installed, just liked to shoot it out there for ideas. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
  3. Suspension shafts bought by mistake. £7 posted.
  4. I am selling a brand new set of Tamiya DF03 Hop Up shocks part number 53926. I've got buyers regret and can't justify keeping them so looking for what I paid for them. £50 delivered to the UK with PayPal gift or buyer pays difference.
  5. Having taken advise from forum members, I’ve bought a DB01 Durga (found a DB01RR after I’d bought it and not sure it’s worth sending the one I’ve got back to Japan as it seems as though I’d end up spending money ‘downgrading’ some of the RR items anyway - beefier stock suspensions arms and gear diff back to ball diff?) So far I've got a couple of questions: 1) I’ve ruled out hex screws as Tony wants $50-odd to ship to the UK and stories of rude customer service from RCScrewZ. I was going to stick with the standard screws and buy a JIS screwdriver and M3 x 0.5 tap. Would this one be suitable: http://www.asiatees.com/display?-DB-01-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=104994&pid=1 I don’t want it to remove plastic just cut a thread. 2) I’ve read a million or so DB01 hop up threads and have come up with the following minimal-ish list. The car is mainly going to be used for bashing on dirt and some jumps but I’d like the option to race it if I go in that direction. I don’t want to spend stupid money but want a nice car. Any comments or advise? Carbon reinforced damper stays / M parts Single slipper clutch Reinforced belts Aluminium suspensions mounts front and back Aluminium suspension blocks front and back Tungsten carbide diff balls Serrated wheel nuts TRF shocks further down the line once I’ve robbed a bank Budget motor, pinion, and ESC questions are to follow once i’ve got my head around the above! Thinking EZRun at the mo. I plan to use a battery that can be shared with my DT02 if possible?
  6. I fancy getting a new 4wd buggy and having read around although the dark impact offers tons of hop-ups and replacements, the DB01 seems to be the more popular. Does anyone happen to have a NIB one for sale? I'm based in the UK.
  7. On advise from your good selves I bought a DB01 (no R/RR/RRRs available). Unfortunately, I didn't follow the advise about just the essential hop ups and got carried away with shiney, ££, blue bits. Any mistakes or advise on the build would be appreciated. Observations so far: You don't seem to need hex screws or tapping tools (not done the turn buckles yet). A good JIS screwdriver is sufficient. If you've bought a load of hop ups, acquaint yourself with the R-RRR manuals as I've had to jump around the instructions a bit and go back a couple of times. Diff build No clue if I've got this right but here are a couple of tips that I hope are useful (I've gone for a 501 outdrive on the rear): "Use 10 ceramic balls, 2 steel balls, one at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o clock (this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth). Use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build up. Use Tamiya anti-wear grease in thrust race. Then cover sides of diff with a sticker or die cut covers.... PS this technique came from a TRF works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!" Use Unibond Repair Extreme glue due to its high temperature tolerance. "Some people offer the advice of tightening the diffs -all the way- and then backing the screw off a couple turns. All I can say is "PLEASE Don't Do It!!". The diff spring will become crushed an ineffective before too long and your thrust bearing and K4 parts will most likely get damaged as well. A damaged thrust bearing alone will cause problems with the diff loosening itself continually.. Replace any parts that may have already become damaged before proceeding with the steps below.. "The best way to set the diff is via the instructions on page 5 of the manual.. Unfortunately Tamiya does not explain these steps very well and the diagram they show is kind of confusing. "What they are trying to show is that it is best to tighten your diff 'just enough' so that the pulley cannot turn freely when both of the diff joints are held in place.. Basically you should tighten the screw a few turns, stick a couple allen keys between the joints, hold them in place and try to rotate the plastic pulley by hand.. If you can turn it easily, then it is too loose. Give the diff screw another turn or two and test it again until the pulley will not turn freely while the diff joints are held in place.. This is pretty much the perfect setting." Electronics Since I've already broken my budget and having read good things, I was gonna go for Trackstar electronics. I'll mainly be bashing but would like the option to race. I was gonna go for the TrackStar 8.5T Sensored Brushless Motor V2 3807KV (ROAR approved) but noticed the spec says maximum 50A. Is a 60A ESC a no go? It also says 1-2S Lipo. Does that mean it won't take a 3S? I was thinking of going 2S anyway as I'm new to rc and don't want to smash the thing up (it fits the chasis better too)? Trackstar TS-920 servo seems an easy choice.
  8. I have for sale a full set of 2x front and 2x rear Tamiya Buggy Aeration Big bore Dampers, 54504 +54505. Comes with full spring set. All dampers are almost immaculate with only very very minor marring to the top caps where the plastic nut attaches. [/img] Any questions feel free to ask. £50 posted within the uk, or overseas at extra cost. James
  9. I have decided to sell my DB01R race buggy (rolling chassis only). It has done me very very well over the time I have had it and raced it, but just feel the need for a change (possibly going into 2WD offroad) . Comes fitted with... Carbon Fibre front and Rear Damper stays Blue Alloy Steering Set Blue Alloy Steering Bridge Blue Alloy Front Hubs Blue Alloy Rear Uprights Blue Alloy Motor Mount Big Bore Aeration Dampers all round Rear Oil Filled Gear Diff Front Ball Diff RW Racing Machined Spur Gear TA05 Carbon Battery Brace TRF501 Stabilizer Set Double Slipper Clutch Add to that all the usual DB01R spec, alloy suspension mounts universal drive shafts, full bearings etc etc. It also comes with loads of spare parts, Big Bore spring sets, spare ball diff (needs rebuilt), spare front one way diff and pulley, original damper stays and uprights etc etc. Comes with manual but not the original kit box. Also comes with a Durga body that is painted very brightly and rear wing, both have signs of damage (it was a race buggy afterall) and a few sets of used wheels and tyres. The chassis tub has a slight crack on the battery side, but this doesn't effect the performance at all. Also comes with weights added to the battery tray slot so that it can accept square lipo battery packs and have a balanced weight. Open to offers as I have no idea what its all worth TBH. Pictures on request via email. Many thanks James
  10. Ok guys and gals, I'm after some advice... I'm looking to get back into the hobby after 20years.. In that time I've owned a Dark Impact and a TT-01 as toys.. But now I want to get back running something that can take a bash, run across multiple surfaces and has a wide range of hopups.. So things to consider, Cost, I'm not made of money.. No great funds to outlay in the first instance. Hop ups, I'd like something I can build, take apart, re build, modify, make fun. Durability, I have kids who will want to play. Ability, I want to run across various surfaces, mainly grass and mud, but the odd carpark and Tarmac'd area will be seen too Must run electric, the noise of the Nitro's/petrol will drive me mad. A buggy not a car, I had more fun with the Dark Impact than the TT-01. Not a beginners buggy. With those in mind I looked at buggy's and settled on the DB-01.. Reading reviews it seems the next step up from the Dark Impact without the high initial costs of the TRF or high end buggy's.. I'm likely to crash.. So to the DB-01... Looking around second am hand models seem few and far between, so looking at new kits, £220 ish.. Ok not to bad, but knowing I want to fully hop up, and run brushless and potentially LiPos my next question is don't look for a DB-01, DB-01R, DB-01RR, DB-01RRR or buy all the parts separately taking my time building up my car, know it inside and out and have exactly the set up I want without a pile of unused plastic parts and empty Hop up wrappers.. I'm not worried about having a running car over night, but want to enjoy the build, setting up, tweaking and then running and doing it all over again! What's everybody's opinion.. Have I gone down the wrong route with the DB-01? Am I coming at the whole thing wrong? Have I missed something out? Over to you!
  11. I've just taken the plunge and bought the newly released DB01-RRR. I'm relatively new to RC (after 30yrs!), and I wanted a high-spec 4WD basher and to be able to pretend I could take it racing if I wanted And the RRR seemed to fit the bill and be quite good value. I've just finished the chassis build, and have transferred some basic brushed/NiMH electronics across from my DT-03 to do some indoor check runs. But I want to try out LiPO for the first time - and also take the opportunity to see how good today's fast 4-pole brushless motors are. So I have in mind: Trackstar 4-pole 4850kV motor Hobbywing 120A ESC A mid-range Turnigy digital servo LiPO 3S (Turnigy nanoTech, or similar) I do have a couple of questions for other DB01 owners. Firstly, how does the above seem feasible (if a little overpowered)? And secondly, how big a LiPO battery can you fit into the chassis? 139x45mm seems the maximum footprint, but how high can I go? 27mm looks very possible, especially with the flatter carbon strap. But has anyone fit in a 30+mm square LiPO? thanks
  12. This has been gathering dust on my garage shelf and really needs to go to a good home. It's got a few hopups fitted, including: Alloy hinge pin blocks Slipper clutch (with associated pads). CVDs on the rear B44 shocks with the full array of tuning springs two unused gear diff units (£34 quid each on ebay!) Full hex hardware Reinforced belt covers. Plus a load of other spares, a set of wheels, the original unused wheels & tyres, and all the bits to build the original shocks. A few bits are missing - such as the wing mounting wedges. I just ordered a new B parts tree off ebay so it will be complete by the time of sale. Looking for £120 posted. I'm based near Cardiff. Clockwork pig timer not included.
  13. As above, i am after a DB01RR chassis tub. Thought i would try here before buying from Japan. Thanks James
  14. Start of a small winter clear out, I have a DB01 Slipper Clutch for sale (no instructions, but can be downloaded easily enough) along with 2 very rare RW Racing spur gears for the slipper clutch, 89T and 91T versions. These spurs are miles better than the rubbish moulded (non circular) Tamiya spur gears and used to retail at £5.99 each when you could find them for sale. Bargain @ £15 posted for the lot to UK buyers. Thanks James .
  15. Due to me upgrading to some nice big bore aeration dampers, my old DB01R Aeration TRF Dampers are for sale. They come as pictured, along with a full brand new set of rear setting springs and also a full set of Soft, Medium and Hard springs that have hardly been used. Also comes with a few spare hardware items etc to help attach to different vehicles. The pre load collars all have a small red paint mark on them to help make sure they are all centred, this doesn't effect the dampers at all. These are awesome dampers and are away to receive a full strip down and full clean and rebuild using some 35wt oil all round before whom ever buys them. They do have the odd mark here and there on them as they have been used for racing in my DB01R, but the shafts are not damaged and the seals do not leak at all. I have no idea what these are worth tbh, so lets say a cheap £30 posted 1st class in the UK . James
  16. I'm just wondering what the fundamental differences are in the TRF 501X, 511X and 503X buggies. I'm aware the 502X is the shaft drive but I can't see any fundamental layout differences in the belt drive versions aside from the 503 having the latest big bore dampers etc. Can anyone with expertise in this area please give a breakdown of the defences between these buggies, ideally with plus points and minus points between each one? thanks
  17. For Sale:- New painted Tamiya DB01 Baldre body shell custom painted by me fits the DB01/DB01R chassis (I also have a DB01R for sale) £25 posted UK
  18. As per the title, i am looking for a kit box for the Tamiya DB01R. Doesnt need to be perfect condition, but at least not falling apart. I am uk based and paypal money waiting. Thanks James
  19. Its that time of year where I have went through my R/C stuff and have the following for sale just to clear some items out and make more space. ok, so first up is a used in box Technigold RX-540VZ motor, I have run this in my vintage Madcap twice and it runs fine and still has plenty of power. £30 A used but in generally good condition RS-540 SD Blue Endurance motor with box and insert. £15 A set of TRF 501X front springs, also fits the DB01 series of cars. £5 A used set of DB01 wheels, have been sprayed in Tamiya Smoke colour, but the scratches are still visable. £5 A set of DF03-MS Hard Type Turnbuckles, these also fit the DB01 and many other Tamiya buggies. Also comes with a set of used adjusters. £10 A Tamiya DB01 front one-way unit with a brand new pulley installed. £10 Tamiya kit # 58218 Toyota Corolla WRC TA03F-S. This is a used kit, but in fantastic condition, the body is in great condition with only 1 small split (as pictured). Includes the TA03F front upgrade bumper and a set of medium TRF springs for the dampers. The wheels included are non kit standard wheels, but they are the Focus WRC style wheels and suit the Corolla just as well.. Also comes with the TA03 parts pictured and the ultra rare TA03R front gearbox and bumper for use on a Lancia 037 project if needed. £90 A selection of tyres, front left to right = DT02 front tyres, brand new never used, Dynastorm rebranded "hobbyworld" tyres brand new and a set of Proline Madcap/Astute front tyres. (must be sold together due to postage costs) £20 Madcap front damper mount and rear damper mount, brand new never used. £10 TA03R-S/F-S short drive belt. £18 These need to go ASAP, so grab a bargain. Postage discount for multiple buys. UK buyers only and paypal for payment please. James
  20. I have been in contact with RW Racing and I'm planning on putting together an order for some of there 91t spur gears - these are no longer available apart from directly through them, so I was wondering if anyone required one (or a few) and I can put together a bulk order and maybe even get a discount. Let me know if you're interested. thanks
  21. I was wondering who still runs there DB01 chassis cars these days and was hoping to spark some general discussion regarding this classic 4WD buggy. What are your essential upgrades for this car? I run a DB01-R which is pretty stock apart from a machined spur gear, ceramic diff balls, ally steering and a carbon battery strap (plus some hex screws for the belt cover). I'm considering upgrading the rear uprights as this seems a weak spot on the chassis, have any of you opted for the TRF aluminium rear uprights, if so, what degree, and do you need to use an adaptor to make it fit or is it a straight swap? Any and all info welcome, plus I'd love to see your hop-ups list thanks
  22. I don't mind advertising for this company. Let me round up. - First bumper, first crash: Broke like glass. T Bone Racing replaced it for free, under warranty. The 1st bumper I was sent was probably older stock. The plastic was dried out. - 2nd bumper, close to a year later, on a bitter cold day on asphalt, and after one of those cartwheels of death: snapped in two. No damage to the DB01 done otherwise. TBR replaced it free, under warranty. - And here comes the reason for this thread: The third bumper is not like the prior two bumpers. It angles up. In fact, whereas the older ones were like "snow plows", this one angles up and lines up with the front wheels in such a way that you can roll the front wheels on a surface tilted at close to 90 degrees. Which means during a nosedive situation after a jump it's not likely the buggy will tip over due to the bumper, which is great. I like T Bone Bumpers. Not just because the warranty, even if the bumper has failed in the past. But because I'm sure it's saved my vehicle quite a few times from unneccesary crashes (into car tires, into curbs, into walls) when braking was not an option. And now with the redesign it won't be any sort of performance hindrance. That is all.
  23. ATM, I have more than a little slop at the rear wheels of my DB01 and it's due to the wear on the tierod ends. I suppose I popped them out one too many times to service the RC. I can try to mix and match tie rods from other companies or from other models and get the ones that don't utilize those ball screws and instead directly screw onto the chassis or mount points, and that would certainly eliminate slop. But at the same time I'm afraid it'll take away a good break point in the sense that during a bad crash, landing, or cartwheel, those tie rods can pop out and deflect a lot of the impact. So in a way they're good to have. Any suggestions? Should I just buy another set of the same tie rods to replace the ones that are worn? Or is there something else that I can do?
  24. Hi there, [Edit: the album linked below has been made public, sorry about that] I'm parting out a built but never used TRF 501X kit and almost everything is for sale. I've not priced all the bits up yet but the prices will be at or below 80% of the lowest ebay price for people here at TC (+shipping at cost). AVAILABLE [501X/DB01] Hop-Up front one-way+Hop-Up adapter [501X] TRF Carbon parts - chassis, top braces, shock towers [501X] TRF Aluminium parts - all bulkheads, motor mount, all suspension mounts, battery posts, [501X] TRF Shell - body, wing and undertray - untrimmed and not painted SOLD [501X] Full Hop-Up steering set [501X/DB01] TRF Suspension - TRF Buggy Dampers [#54028] [501X/DB01] TRF Drivetrain - Slipper clutch, ball diff, steel outdrives, F+R CV shafts, 2 x 369 mm belts If you want something then just post your initial interest in this thread (I'll certainly reply) and if it goes beyond that we can migrate to PM/email. I also have some spare plastics like arms and hubs as well as a full turnbuckle set so if you need some odds and ends post in this thread and I can have a look for you. If you can see this album (link) there are some pics there for good measure. Cheers, Dave
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