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Found 25 results

  1. Hi, I'm looking for a DT02 chassis - preferably NIB so I can build it up. Either a Sand Viper, Holiday Buggy, Sand Rover etc. Thank you, Mike
  2. Hopefully this is in the right place, it makes more sense than in the 'Builds' section since it's really just a modification... We've been through a lot together, me and my £50 DT-02. A lot of batteries, that is. It's probably my favourite runner. They're tough as old boots and have really predictable handling, with a tight turning circle, decent ground clearance and good weight balance for jumping! Problem is, there aren't many on-road-suitable tyre options for the DT-02/03 buggies. There's the Carson All-Terrain wheel set, which has sold out pretty-much everywhere during the Covid-19 lockdown. These are generally black or chrome wheels in a design which I don't particularly like, though, and you're kinda stuck with them. The other option is the front wheels of a Tamiya QD touring car from the 2000's, which had twin 1150 bearing front wheel fittings, based on a touring-car sized 52mm rim. Then you're kind of stuck with the CC01 range of tyres, or some crawler tyres, which aren't really appropriate as they're generally too soft. There is the pricey option of Tamiya Street Rover wheels and tyres, but your tyre options are limited and as said, this is an expensive route! So what about hex front wheels? There's this option from GPM which I tried originally: Unfortunately, they just don't work. The wheel nut still has to be tight against the wheel, clamping it in place. The only way the wheels can 'freewheel' is to back the nut off a couple of turns. Then you'll find the nuts will fall off when you run it. Not good, sorry GPM. Some internet searching led me full-circle back to the TamiyaClub website, where a 2017 post from member 'Pininy' (who sadly doesn't seem to be registered on the forum) listed some parts and a small modification to convert the front of a DT-02 to hex-fitment. Massive thanks to him (or her??) I'm just re-documenting how this all goes together below. Parts required: 3Racing FGX-107 - Sakura FGX Parts Part G 3Racing FGX-124 - Heavy Duty Wheel Axle For 3racing Sakura FGX 4x 850 ball-bearings (5 x 8 x 2.5mm) 2x 2x10mm pin (for hex) - Tamiya 50594 2x 5mm ball connectors - Tamiya 50592 4x 5mm ball end (short) - Tamiya 50797 Option parts I used: Tamiya 53828 DT-02 Turnbuckle Suspension and Tie-Rod 2x 22mm hinge pin & e-clips 2x 1.5mm x 3mm spacer So these are the current hop-up tyres I had fitted after wearing-out the kit ones last year: I think they have a little bit of life left in them if I use them on grass! Here are the wheels and tyres I want to fit: DF-03 front and rear wheels, which are obviously 12mm hex fit. Fitting the rear wheels of course is very straightforward: And there are no issues with clearance etc. The front end has to come apart next: There's quite a lot of wear on that little pin-screw which holds the front upright in the C-hub. I decided to replace these after finding that 3x22mm hinge-pins fit, more on that later. You need to modify the front C-hubs to get enough clearance for the new knuckles. I did a quick and simple job with a Dremel, you could likely do it much neater if you had the inclination! You can even see all the black debris from the grinding tool un-ceremoniously sprayed up the side of the body! Here are the new parts required: They go together like so, I have fitted the 5mm ball connector to the pin closer to the axle for maximum steering angle: I strongly suspect that the axles can be the commonly-found M-Chassis items from Tamiya, but I didn't have one to-hand in order to check sizing etc. But they fit in exactly the same manner, so I can see no reason why it wouldn't work. This is it all fitted. I used the 3x22mm hinge pin, retained the small metal shim at the base of the knuckle (as per DT-02 standard instructions) and required that 1.5mm blue spacer to take out the vertical travel of the pin. At this point I fitted both sides and re-connected the steering tie-rods. Unfortunately, I had an un-holy amount of toe-out, as the arms were now too long (the ball connector has moved inwards from the stock items). I replaced the adjuster ends from the 53828 hop-up set with 4nr of the standard 5mm short adjusters, like so: Ta-da: Then it was time for wheels-on. I haven't taken any pictures but it's naturally the same as the rear-end, 2x10mm pin goes into the hole on the axle, 12mm hex over the top (included in the 3Racing parts) then the wheel and the locknut. And this image hopefully shows why you have to modify the front C-hubs for the knuckle to clear on full-lock: Then you're ready to go: This opens up a huge aftermarket for optional wheels and tyres, especially at 2.2" buggy size. I have some road slicks on order which I will fit to this and update with some pictures. Crucially: there are no clearance issues front or rear, and whilst you have a smidge of added ground-clearance with this setup, the chassis still bottoms-out before the dampers reach full travel, thereby protecting those precious shock towers!
  3. Hi All, With the quarantine stretching on I got ambitious with upgrading my son’s Sand Viper. The kit comes with the brushless ready TBLE-02 S. Reading the forums here it sounded like pairing this with 2s lipo, a steel pinion and a 13.5T sensored brushless was a good route to some fun (thank you!). I acquired a Muchmore Fleta ZX v2 13.5T https://www.amainhobbies.com/muchmore-fleta-zx-v2-13.5t-er-spec-brushless-motor-mmrmr-v2zx135er/p693983 After soldering it all together the ECS starts up flashing red/green which indicates it thinks it’s in sensorless mode. Ok here’s the trouble shooting I’ve tried: 1) Attach the old sport tuned brushed motor: works fine. 2) Attached an old sensorless brushless motor: esc starts up in low voltage warning mode 3) Removed the sensor harness and tried running the Muchmore motor: it gave a small shudder and was clearly getting power than stopped and gave the over load protection warning. (This May have been unwise but I was looking for options) 4) Attached an NiMH battery and tried steps 1-3 plus the original setup with the Muchmore, table-02 and the nimh: same results across the board. I attached a picture of the setup and am happy to take more. It could be my solders are bad (they sure are ugly) but they are very solid, I could lift the car with them. There’s no crossover or short on the solder. And step three above seems to indicate the motor is getting power. I’m happy to chase any ideas or suggestions. Thanks in advance!
  4. Hope the group mods don't mind me posting this, but after testing by me and a racer i know have decided I am confident enough in my DT02/3 3 deg toe in uprights to offer them for sale. I have opened a Shapeways store called CTE RC (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/cotic-rc) and have put them on there with a few of my other designs. There are fitting instructions on the part links on the store. No one else makes toe in uprights for these chassis which is why i did them. Hopefully some of you might find them useful, or fun, or just a nice colour (There are about 10 colour options). Here's a pic of Andy's cool DT02 and DT03 race cars and my DT03 truggy with them installed. There is a full installation and rundown over on by DT03 Build log The improvements I wanted was to reduce the size and make the uprights dedicated to the metal driveshafts. The kit uprights are bulky and bind on the wishbones. As you can see in this comparison, the new uprights allow about 10mm more suspension travel, which gives more roll capacity and more grip. No one else makes toe in uprights for these chassis which is why i did them. If you race you will find these a big step forward from the kit version. Andy (my tame racer) reports more rear end grip and stability and the ability to get on the throttle earlier out of corners. He was able to dial in more front end grip because the rear was better. Also reported it had a bigger impact on performance in the DT03 on astro than the DT02. Hopefully some of you might find them useful, or fun, or just a nice colour (There are about 10 colour options). If you would like to order they are available as individual left and right items. Left: https://www.shapeways.com/product/DHAWQ2DWJ/tamiya-dt02-3-rear-upright-3-deg-toe-in-lh?optionId=65301051 Right: https://www.shapeways.com/product/FPEB2TSM2/tamiya-dt02-3-rear-upright-3-deg-toe-in-rh?optionId=65300950 Cheers!
  5. For sale unused shocks all but one are new Tamiya 19402709 / Tamiya 54567, 1 set of front and rear black oil cva shocks, suitable for dt-01, dt-02, dt-03, df-02, tt-02B, NIP (new in pack), sealed, fixed piston type £15 inc. UK shipping next up... 1x used but cleaned and un-assembled thundershot / fire dragon / terra scorcher set of front yellow cva oil shocks in great condition, £12 inc. UK shipping next up... Tamiya 84347 CW-01 short shock set ONLY parts for 2 CVA shocks! could also be used for rear of dt-01,dt-02,dt-03 etc comes with soft rear springs, normal pistons and attachment parts £14 inc. UK shipping next up... Tamiya 19402709 / Tamiya 54567, 1 set of rear ONLY white oil cva shocks, suitable for dt-01, dt-02, dt-03, df-02, tt-02B, NIP (new in pack), sealed, fixed piston type no screws, ball connectors inc. this time just shock parts and oil bottle comes with normal dt-02, dt-03 rear springs, ideal for WT-01 if you have alloy shock towers (might need stiff springs though) £12 inc. UK shipping each. 2 sets of these are available next up... Tamiya 84366 wr-02 cva mini shock set in yellow, 2 shocks only, no attachment parts and fixed pistons, no oil bottle can be used also for dt-01, g6-01, gf-01, dt-02, dt-03 etc but you would need longer springs £10 inc. UK shipping Paypal gift please Going on ebay Sunday if no one here wants them
  6. Some pics of my DT-02 with a McAllister modified coupe body. I chose this body to use in place of my Holiday Buggy body for bashing since I don't want to destroy the HB body. The color is Spazstix candy dynamite purple, backed with Spazstix mirror chrome, backed with Spazstix ultimate black backer. Looks like a metallic black cherry. The wheel selection is just goofing around from what wheels I have. I don't have any other bearing mount front wheels and am open for suggestion for a set of offroad wheels / tires to go with this body. With the way I have it now, it looks like it's ready for a tractor pull. I may use @Wooders28 idea and swap the front to hex mount for more wheel options. (Haven't cut the body posts yet because I have another body to fit to this chassis)
  7. Not sure this qualifies for Build or Design Thread. After watching The Grand Tour's VW Beach Buggies, i've decided to make a similar replica of Richard's modified Beach Buggy :-) Here's where I am starting with a Holiday Buggy on a DT-02, not going to make too scale. Just some modification that makes it looks a bit scale -ish.. list of things done so far... 1) full lights 2) Animated Driver, head and arms on steering wheel 3) roll-cage. similar ?
  8. DT Challenge 2018 7th October New venue this year …………. Swindon RC Car Club hosting Same Rules as previous years with the DT01 class now open to all DT01 cars (last year was just the Madbull) 20 places now available for the Hotshot gearbox cars …………. check out the rules and more info on the DT02/03 Facebook page
  9. Related to getting my 3 deg rear uprights, i am interested as to why the 03 is so unloved by DT Challenge racers and other track runners. To me (i am not a racer, but understand technical things) the 03 has longer wheelbase (similar to race buggies) and much better front suspension and steering setup. Same rear suspension as the 02 so even scores there. I have an 03 and although it took a few (enjoyable) months getting a setup on it, it seems like a great handling chassis. Any racers or track runners got any thoughts? More interestingly, are there any parts i could design within the mod class rules that would improve the 03 past the 02?
  10. Bearings fitted, servo fitted, ansmann clash motor, could supply ESC if needed? Wrong wheels, hex fitment on front. Small tear in rear wing Very light scratching on bottom of chassis,, hardly used.
  11. Next project! The massive bulky rear uprights on my dt03 offend me! They are huge to clear the plastic dogbones and with metal driveshafts in they actually foul the lower arms preventing full droop. Aluminium ones are rare and cost a fortune so I thought I would model up some slim uprights myself and get them from shapeways. Seeing as I am on this though, I can do pretty much anything I like so would it be good to add a degree of toe angle maybe? There's already some toe in on the car, but I remember the @super gripper write up bemoaning the lack if toe adjustment. I figure with a 1 deg pair you could either add or subtract some toe in depending on how that affects the car (I have no idea what the effect is by the way!) Would you want more camber link holes? If so, what configuration? Any other features I should add? Let's design the ultimate DT02/3 rear upright!!
  12. Need some C-hubs for another grasshopper 2 chassis I'm updating to 4 bar front suspension. Don't really want to buy the entire parts tree just to get c-hubs. Anyone upgraded to aluminium c-hubs on their buggy want to lighten their spares box?
  13. Tamiya DT02 Challenge Proudly hosted by Surrey & Hants RC Club Sunday 29th September 2013 Farnborough Hampshire GU14 8SN This is destined to be an annual event, Tamiya DT02 chassis fun racing split in to two categories 1, Holiday Buggy 2010, Sand Rover & Street Rovers 2, Modified DT02 cars Come along and fun race your mates at a BRCA club, astro turf track with ample parking and a campsite less than 5 miles drive away. £8 per driver entry fee for one class or just £10 for both classes. We have the whole track facility to our selves all day, racing starts at 9am until we are finished (depending on numbers) Burger van on site, toilets and vast pitting area. Power for those who require for charging. link for shrccc http://shrccc.co.uk/ campsite link http://www3.hants.gov.uk/basingstoke-canal/campsite.htm Booking in available soon, follow this thread people !
  14. I have a Rising Fighter I bought for my kids. It's had a couple of hop ups with my old CVAs and AMPRO rear shock mounts and transmission stabiliser but I have hunkered after a 4 bar front suspension. What can I say? I like tinkering. As much as the AMPRO kit is cool as this is my kids basher I really didn't want to move away from ABS plastic. That and not wanting to cry each time 22 bucks worth of AMPRO wishbone snapped in a big shunt! I also have a load of DT03 front suspension leftover from my upgrades to my Grasshopper3 DT03, and I saw some cool double wishbone mods on grasshoppers on YouTube which got me thinking...... First thing I needed was to make a plate to mount the DT03 central wishbone mount (DT03 part C2). I used some 3mm aluminium and the Rising Fighter parts as a template for holes. Hand made and a bit rough. Holes in the DT03 part are 20mm lateral and 21mm longitudinal. I drilled 4mm holes to give me some wiggle room then some 12mm m3 machine screws and nuts to secure I bought a pair of DT02/3 wishbone sprues Part No 10004254 on eBay for £6. Mount them reversed to clear everything. I used screw pins to mount them but 48.5mm shafts would also work. You need to open out the holes in the central mounting with a 3.1mm drill. They don't have a pivoting shaft on the DT03 so are a tight fit otherwise. I used the DT03 c-hubs (part B1) and uprights as I upgraded my DT03 to GPM metal c-hubs and blitzer uprights for truck wheels so I had them spare. The Rising Fighter uprights would also work but you need the c-hubs. I mounted the 64mm eye to eye CVA shocks in the outer position. For the top arms I used part 5 from the DT03 wishbone sprue Into the end of this I threaded a ball screw from the CVA shock kit I then lined up the part with the top of the chassis, backed up against the stiffening rib on the front suspension mount I used the hole in the part as a template for a 2.5mm drill to put a hole in the tub. I used m3 x 15 self tappers as they were spare but 12mm would work. I then drilled a second hole through part and tub and installed a second self tapper. The top arms and steering arms were all made using the DT02 turnbuckle set. I mistakenly bought this for my DT03 but the steering turnbuckles didn't fit. They are perfect here. All the longer steering arms and top arms can just as easily be made using M3 threaded bar and the tamiya ball ends and ball connectors. And finished. Really good geometry. No bump steer here Bit of fun with some spares really. If you add up the cost of parts all together I am not sure I makes sense but it works REALLY well. Maybe one for you GH2 ReRe buyers? Hope you like. Cheers!
  15. Hi Guys, I am looking at getting a buggy to build once I have completed the CC01 that is currently on its way to me. I need help with making the right choice. So I am asking for advice from all the awesome guys on these forums. I'm looking at the three chassis below, 1. Grasshopper 2. Holiday buggy or any of the other DT02 Chassis 3. Racing Fighter or any of the other DT03 Chassis Any advice would be greatly appreciated. If you guys have other options for buggies, I would like to know that too. Thanks guys.
  16. Hey guys, Im a new member, new to the RC Car scene, I have always been interested in RC models, and I always liked the Tamiya Dark Impact and HPI Savage 4x4. The missus's dad bought himself a Holiday Buggy for Christmas, (he's a old RC racer and used to compete) and so the missus bought me a Tamiya DT02 Holiday Buggy for Christmas as something different and up my street ( Im a Mechanical Engineer by trade and have numerous Land Rovers Motorbikes etc haha) So, I spent Christmas day building the buggy, dead pleased with it - very quickly came to realized I needed the proper Tamiya Screwdrivers lol. Only I didn't have any of the radio gear so have had to wait for that to arrive ha. Ran the car a few times with the Father in laws to discover the out of the Box 380 motor was a bit slow compared to his GT tuned one haha. So, so far The car has got a Flysky 2.4Ghz system, a Overlander 3300Mah Nimh battery and a HK servo. I have also purchased some oil dampers, and have since discovered the springs are a bit stiff ha. Have purchased a 3racing ball bearing set and also some drive-shafts, now herein lies the problem. These are the drive-shafts and cups Ive ordered, the drive-shafts fit the standard cups fine, however the cups that I have ordered are too small, I have ordered the same cups that were quoted on TheRCRacer article. Sorry for the large first post, but thought you guys might like to know the story ha. heres some photos; Regards Matt
  17. Just spent a little time scanning in my available recent off road and re-re Tamiya reviews. Been trying to search if anyone has done a definitive database or list so I could refer to so I could buy the back issue if I desired Can anyone help update this list? Specifically off road re-re's, I'm unaware at this time if any of the following were reviewed and in what magazine, month and issue no. Still looking for Subaru Brat, Super Fighter GR, Desert Gator, Sand Viper, Hornet, Lunchbox, Thunder shot, Top Force, Manta Ray, Rising Fighter etc etc Below is what I own so far ANY MARKED WITH ** ARE ONES POSTED IN THIS THREAD WHICH I HAVEN'T GOT BUT WOULD LIKE! Off road and Re-re reviews Feb 1997 - M-02L Volkswagen Beetle [ in RC Car Action] Nov 1997 - TA03RS Porsche 911 GT1 [ in RC Car Action] Sep 2004 - TRF415 [ in RC Car Action] **Sep 2004 - Super Clod Buster [ in RC Car Action] **Nov 2004 - DF-02 Gravel Hound [ in RC Car Action] Feb 2005 - TG10 Mk. 2 and Tamtech F1 [ in RC Car Action] Mar 2005 - NDF-01 Nitro Thunder [ in RC Car Action] Apr 2005 - CC-01 Volkswagen Touareg [ in RC Car Action] Jan 2005 - TNX [ in RC Driver] Mar 2005 - TT-01 Calsonic Impul Z [ in RC Driver] Oct 2006 - Dark Impact [ in RC Racer] Nov 2006 - Dark Impact [in RRCi ] - incomplete, only first 3 pages Sep 2007 - Nitrage 5.2 [ in RC Car Action] Nov 2007 - TNX 5.2 (long-term review), TA05 IFS Ebbro 350R [ in RC Driver] Jan 2008 - Hotshot 2007 [ in RC Driver] Feb 2008 - Tamtech Buggy Champ [ in RC Driver] Mar 2008 - Hilux Hi-lift [ in RC Driver] Apr 2008 - DB-01 Durga [ in RC Driver] Jun 2008 - Tamtech Hotshot [ in RC Driver] Jul 2008 - CR-01 Land Cruiser 40 [ in RC Driver] Aug 2008 - 501X Worlds Edition, Tamtech Hotshot (Chapter 2) [ in RC Driver] Aug 2008 - CR-01 Land Cruiser 40 [ in RC Car Action] Mar 2008 - Hotshot [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Sep 2008 - Plasma Edge DF02 [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Nov 2008 - Fire Dragon [in Radio Race Car] Oct 2009 - Buggy Champ [in Radio Control Car Racer] Nov 2009 - Buggy Champ [in Radio Race Car] Jul 2010 - Sand Scorcher [in Radio Race Car] Sep 2010 - Unimog CC-01 [ in Radio Control Car Racer] **Oct 2012 - DB-02 Leonis [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Dec 2010 - Holiday Buggy 2010 [ in Radio Control Car Racer] May 2011 - Avante [ in RC Car Action] Jun 2012 - VW Type 2 Bus [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Jun 2012 - FAX XB version [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Jul 2012 - Bruiser [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Aug 2012 - Jeep Wrangler CC01 [ in Radio Race Car] **Aug 2012 - Super Clod Buster [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Sep 2012 - Street Rover [ in Radio Race Car] Oct 2012 - DB-02 Leonis [ in Radio Control Car Racer] **Jan 2013 - Wild One [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Mar 2013 - Mud Blaster 2 [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Apr 2013 - TA-02T Desert Fielder [ in Radio Control Car Racer] May 2013 - XV-01 Rally [ in RC Car Action] **May 2013 - DF-02 Aero Avante [ in Radio Control Car Racer] **May 2013 - Asterion XV-01T [ in RC Driver] Jun 2013 - Fighter Buggy SV2 [ in RRCi ] Jul 2013 - Farm King [ in Radio Control Car Racer] **Oct 2013 - TXT-2 Agrios [ in RC Car Action] Nov 2013 - NovaFox [ in Radio Control Car Racer] **Nov 2013 - NovaFox [ in RC Driver] Feb 2014 - Egress [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Jul 2014 - DT-03 Neo Fighter Buggy [ in Radio Control Car Racer] **Sept 2014 - Rock Socker [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Oct 2014 - Lowrider Pumpkin [ in RRCi ] **Sep 2015 - Aqroshot DT-03T and Unimog 425 CC-01 [ in RRCi] **Sep 2015 - Honda City Turbo [ in Radio Control Car Racer] **Nov 2015 - Jimny MF-01X [ in Radio Control Car Racer] **Jan 2016 - Monster Beetle [ in Radio Control Car Racer] Mar 2016 - Toy FJ Cruiser Black ed. CC-01 [ in RC Driver]
  18. I only have a few DT02 chassis covers left ....... they are made to fit the 2010 Holiday Buggy, 2011 Sand Rover, Street Rover and Nissan Titan. Now the weather has gone all rubbish you can safely run your DT02 in all winter muck Usual price of £6 each plus P&P at cost.
  19. For sale :- NIP Tamiya K block tyres. Front and Rears. 54185 & 54186 £15 plus £3.90 second class recorded delivery UK.
  20. Hi I need som help with picking right motor and pinion, part numbers will be helpfull. I currently own a Super Fighter With DT-02 chassis, i've mounted ball bearings all over, and fitted with a RS540 Sport tuned. I want more speed I know that it's not recommended with a larger motor than the sport tuned, but in different threads in this forum I can see that it works anyway.. I would like to have a Tamiya motor, i like to use original parts all over. Of all the different motors from Tamiya, the super Stock series, GT tuned, Torque tuned and so on, wich one should i use, and with wich pinion? As you can see, im new to this, started this hobby couple of months ago, and DT 02 is my entry kit, after doing that kit i while, i am gonna upgrade to a more pro chassis. Thankfull for answers! (sorry if my English is bad..)
  21. So, after a great time at the DT02 Challenge held at SHRCCC on 28th September, its time for me and William to get into racing at our local club (TORCH). We've already been down once and ran our (at that time stock) Holiday Buggy round the track a few times. Since then I've acquired a rolling chassis Sand Viper and also an additional Sand Viper body shell and wing. At the moment I'm in the process of converting the Holiday Buggy into a Sand Viper using the additional shell I got, plus some spares ordered online. I'm also turning the rolling chassis into a runner for me to use. Here's where I'm up to so far: William's car: - Removed the 540 Sport Tuned motor and replaced with a silver can 540 - this was at William's request as he was a bit overwhelmed with the speed of the ST motor at the DT02 event - Replaced the HB shell mountings for the Sand Viper mountings Still to do: - Replace the HB wheels and tyres for more suitable ones (Super Gripper has provided links for these, Rob from TORCH has also been very helpful in this respect) - Trim the body shell so it fits around the Carson front shock tower brace For now I think that will suffice for William...I want his skill level to rise so it is equal to the performance of the car before doing anything else. I think once William progresses much beyond this setup I'll buy him a Sand Viper so that we can keep the HB for fun times - JWeston made this recommendation to me a week or so back and now I'm starting to realise the level of hop-ups that will be necessary to make any DT02 competitive I can see his logic. My car: - I've rebuilt the gear box using new A-tree parts as the original had seen some action and a couple of the screw holes used to mount it onto the chassis where shattered. Nice surprise when I opened this up to see it already has the ball diff hop up fitted - I've put new bearings in as part of the gearbox rebuild - don't think this was strictly necessary but as I had some spares hanging around I figured I might as well whilst the whole thing was in bits - I picked some white Sand Viper wheels up from Smitchos at the DT02 event - the rears are on and fitted with some cheap Pro-Line RED tyres I bought (£2 so seemed a bargain!). The rears are fitted, just need to swap the fronts over - Installed the 540 Sport Tuned motor - Replaced the bearings for the rear wheels - the rear left wheel seemed to be binding and wasn't spinning freely - all sorted now Still to do: - Fit electrics. I've bought a TEU-105 ESC, an Etronix Pulse Transmitter/ Receiver, and a Acoms AS17 Servo that all need to be fitted - Fit same wheels/ tyres as will be fitted to William's car Lee (Super Gripper) has given me an extensive shopping list of items needed to properly prep the cars so they're competitive at TORCH...I'm looking forward to working my way through that list as our skill levels increase and we start to feel limited by not having these items in place. I will put a photo up of the two SV's once they're prepped and ready for a blast around TORCH this coming Sunday afternoon
  22. Hi all, Just finished installing the hop ups to make my previously stock HB2010 eligible for next weekend's DT02 challenge event. We took the newly tuned HB out for a spin yesterday and was impressed by the massive increase in speed that the new motor and full bearings have given the buggy. We've also been down to the TORCH track last Sunday afternoon for a blast round the track there - great fun and should be even better now we've got the 540 motor in there. However, the poor HB body shell is already starting to look a little battle scarred...I lost one of the headlights yesterday as a result of a head-on smash (fortunately the red plastic seems to react postively to super glue and the shattered plastic is now back in place, for how long remains to be seen!). I've also got cracks around the roof area. This leads me think that the HB shell isn't going to withstand the rigours of weekly racing...plus having been down to TORCH last week we were definately the odd ones out, and of course the body shell, driver figure, etc are all adding weight. So, the aim is to get both my son and I in a position where we both have a car to race - at the moment the Holiday Buggy is our only RC car - we're both total newbies to this hobby. I'm planning to buy a Sand Viper kit to build for myself to race and gradually hop-up over time, plus experiment with camber angles and so on. Initially I was thinking I'll have to buy two sand vipers, however I then realised that HB and Sand Viper are based on the same chassis. A quick google search showed I can buy a Sand Viper body shell and wing online for about £10 which got me thinking - how easy is it to swap out the HB shell for the sand viper shell? I've got a few bits left on the M and D trees that look like mounting points for body shells - are these the ones that I'd use for the Sand Viper shell and wing? What else would I need to change? I'm planning to go back down to TORCH the first Sunday in October and talk to them about entry requirements for their races - I'm assuming I'll also need to change the wheels and tyres for Sand Viper wheels and whatever tyres are permitted in races? If anyone has done this, or can advise feasibility it'd be much appreciated.
  23. I have a small batch of hand made Scale Air Filters for SRB's, Holiday Buggy's and Sand Rovers/Street Rovers. They are hand made with all new parts Available in red/brown for K&N, Green for Green stuff filters and Blue for Forge Performance. £4 each and £2 postage and packing please pm on here with how many you would like and which colours. [[/url]
  24. I have always been not happy with regards to the DT02 gearbox, especially when it comes to keeping a motor cool. I understand it plays some part in protecting the motor but does nothing to help keep it cool. So anyway I run a few DT02's and have loads of parts kicking around. I thought I would look at some options for keeping the motor cool or at least trying to keep it a little cooler ! I know there are many various heat sinks you can buy but most only fit a standard sealed silver can type motor. So here's what I have done. the gearbox as it comes after a little modification and some holes for extra airflow. and I cut a lot away on this one. not sure how strong it is with the torque from this 19turn spec which is quite a powerful motor.
  25. hi all, been trying to find the 3racing dt02 damper set for my holiday buggy 2010, everywhere seems to be out of stock , anyone seen any that are in stock? cheers ,
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