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  1. This is my DT-03 Mod thread. I'll show the modifications that I don't really see others doing, or not that often. First off, the car was built stock, with only bearings as an upgrade. One thing I did right away was grind the drive cups to get more suspension travel. Tamiya should have tweaked that mold a long time ago. Initially I popped these into a drill and spun them against sanding paper. The gap made it bouncy when sanding though, so it wasn't even. I went back later and smoothed it out. 220 Grit paper worked fine. You can see it still rubs a bit on the lower suspension arm in the pics below. There is the clean spot on the lower control arm. Checking the Center of Gravity. I also tried to balance it on the side to get the height. I couldn't keep it steady on it's side for a pic, but the yellow/black point is the Cg. I was surprised how high it was! That is completely above the NiMH battery. Looking at it, the motor is mostly above the Cg, the ESC & receiver, and the oil filled top half of the shocks. More to come.
  2. If you want to jump straight to ‘The Resurrection’ click the link below and in the meantime if you want to read the thread except my apologies for the lack of pictures. In the time I’ve been away both from here and Flickr my account has disappeared and all the pictures with it. I will attempt to add some back as I can but initially at least everything will be from the following link onwards. If you want to jump straight to the changes from buggy to truggy/truck and an explanation of sorts as to why jump straight to it here (sans pictures) ——— So as the title tells you I’m a total beginner at this so be gentle! I was unsure whether to do a build as I imagine it’ll be of little interest to the veterans, but maybe someone in my shoes at some point will come across it and find it of use. Here goes then. I’ve wanted an R/C on and off for years but never got round to it until now (is that a recurring adult theme?) It was a definite heart over head moment as I did virtually no research(!) and pretty much jumped straight in. I looked at a few RTR’s but beyond the ease of getting up and running and the possible initial reduced cost I wanted the build part. If I’m honest that’s the part that’s most appealing to me, at the minute at least. So from that I started looking at Tamiya kits and was initially looking at 4wd kits but then I came across @ThunderDragonCy build and was totally drawn in by the build and tweaks he had done and bit the bullet on a 2wd DT03 Racing Fighter. Thinking about it afterwards I feel that was the right choice. Although the 4wd kits are by the look of it more involved to build I feel they would be less fun in use, possibly too easy whereas the 2wd kits once built and running should be more fun/challenging to drive. Time will tell...plus I can buy a 4wd later! So to start I just bought the kit with the CVA shocks, ESC and Torque Tuned Motor, but nothing else beyond buying some bearings, although I did buy a couple more bits a few days later but I’ll detail those as they come up in the build. The plan is to research the rest, (servo/batteries/transmitter and receiver) as I go. I’m in no rush and at the moment have very limited time to build the car anyway (first clue for you all that this won’t be a quick build thread!) Nothing exciting at first but I’ll be sure to document any issues etc I come across as a novice builder and then later with use I’ll share any tweaks etc. And if you’ve made it this far, well done 😂 So then, to begin...
  3. I Recently got back into the hobby, with a general emphasis on participating in racing. There's a great local track that race's 1/10 EP only (rare here) with a good turn out for stock buggy 2wd and 4wd, plus other classes every fortnight. I did really want to use a Tamiya chassis in 2wd or 4wd stock, but fairly quickly realized after practicing with my DF01/DT02, that It's probably not a practical choice. I bought a used Xray XB2, and have done 2 races so far in stock class, and feel like it's coming together, quietly expecting to podium the B main in the next race or 2. After my first race though I definitely realized that the day would be a lot more fun with 2 cars. Although my DF01 is just about there with a set up to work ok in 4WD stock, it's proved horribly unreliable, I have faith i'll get it to a point where I can run it, but running it every at every race is probably going to be frustrating. The surface at our track is definitely part of the problem. It's outdoors, using a surface designed for BMX racing, super high grip, and pretty unforgiving on the car. Having the Xray for 2wd left my DT02 without a purpose, side by side with modern 2wd race buggies it's very obvious there's a difference very few drivers could make up.. So I thought I would have a go at converting it to a Stadium Truck. This is a "less serious" class at our track, with truggy and ST run together, motors are free, standard gearing for a DT02 is ~9.2?? with a 19t pinion, and about 8.2?? with a 17t, so it should run well with 10.5, or 13.5, which will make it pretty fun I ran the DT02 at our track quite a bit, I ended up breaking both towers, but it took a long time, and the truck body will save them anyway. The tub did end up basically worn out on the bottom and also cracked in a few spots. I'm going make up some skid plates, which are a general necessity at our track no matter what car you run, that should save the wearing through, and cracks may have been my error with incorrect screw lengths, or driving heaps of laps and not noticing things loosening off. I think I'll get better life out of the fresh one I have. I've always loved the Stadium Blitzer. I consider the DT02 to be a kind of spiritual successor to the Blitzer cars. They are both basic 2wd buggies in the classic style, the only real difference being the very deep offset and wider wheels. So first step was to find some wheels. I found some old Traxxas wheels which looked like they might work, and ran the idea past local hobby shop, and he came back with a suggestion of some old Thunder Tiger wheels, which turned out to be perfect. They're the same width front and back, so will work with modern tyres, they're also bearing type front, AND metric, AND fit on a normal buggy front knuckle. The rears are pin drive, so also bolt straight on, and the offsets seem to be in the ball park for sure.. So here they are. You can also see my spur gear mod from the cars previous iteration, which I'll no longer need for the motor I'll be running. Front - Rear - Body on - Top view of body - Rear 1/4 Front - This body I got from a Vintage Dyna Blaster. I'll run this for now, it definitely has some character, ill clean it up a bit (more) and remove the Dyna Blaster decals, but I have a Stadium Blitzer body and decals on the way, which I'll do in box art Next up is to build a fresh set of CVA's. And later this week or next body mounting, after I grab some tyres. I think with some trimming I should have just enough clearance, but if not I've got a few ideas for widening the track a little.
  4. Shifted this thread over here as I posted in General Discussions as my first post before I knew about how things worked. Also, work on the car escalated and I wanted to keep a note of ongoing upgrades/changes. Hopefully of interest to DT03 runners/buyer. I have an original Thunder Dragon from 1988 which has had a bit of a restomod, but getting that sorted recently led to the purchase of a cheap Racing Fighter from Germany as I've never had a 2WD buggy before. First buggy full build in about 30 years, although the Thunder Dragon has been torn down and rebuilt several times. Really enjoyed it. I had an old Grasshopper2 shell in my bit box from back in the day, and I'd never painted a shell before. I don't like the modern look of buggies, being a child of the 80's I love the older buggies so I decided to have a go and some light body mods to fit it to my DT03. It was already slightly modified around the front shocks to fit on my Thunder Dragon. Here's a couple of trial fits with the primer on, trying to figure out the mountings and proportion. Couldn't resist getting the wheels on to see what it might look like: Figured out the body mods, enlarging the front hole to use the central front mount on the chassis, and adding holes in the haunches for the large l-shaped body mount towers that came with the kit. I ended up going narrower than I could have got away with on the front cuts. I chopped the DT-03 suspension mount in the centre to get the front of the shell on and off. Not bothered about the nth degree of wheel control and can always get the fancy TRF carbon one if I feel the need in future. After a couple of aborted attempts at orange from Tamiya and Halfords, and neither before strong enough for my liking and went for it with neon orange. Stickers are from MCI Racing, with red replaced with black, and yellow replaced with dark grey. Pretty pleased with how it came out. Another modern look I'm not keen on is the super short front overhang. I like the big 80s bull bars, so inspired by AMPRO Engineering on Youtube I knocked up a bull bar bumper in 3D CAD and got it 3D printed from Shapeways. Only cost a tenner! Sets the stance off nicely, I think. I do love the kit black star dish wheels though. As for the car, I loved building it and it seems solid. I've never had brushless before either, so I went for a 13.5R Speed Passion MMM motor from Modelsport who also did my some leads with tamiya plugs, and a steel 17t pinion and a bearing set to start with. The kit came with the CVA dampers with the fixed solid plates on top of the shafts. Initially I was a bit disappointed. I'm certainly no expert and have no plans to race, but it was very understeery and bottomed out a lot. Due to older equipment I have already, I still use ACOMS 27MHz radio and NiMH batteries to keep costs down which I've since learnt are on the heavy side, but they work fine in my Thunder Dragon! So, after going down the rabbit hole of what mods to do where, trying not to spend a fortune on hop ups and learning as I go, this I think is my basics for getting the DT-03 to somewhere near it's potential and also hopefully help some newbies looking at getting their DT-03 running nice in my opinion: 1) Junk the stock tyres. The deep rib fronts that come with the Racing Fighter in particular are useless on hard surfaces and I generally muck about in the street or at the yard at work. With the fiesty motor I started tearing through the rears too, and have ended up with Schumacher Mini Pin Yellows on the stock rims. Works great, and the yellows last longer than the blue counter-intuitively, because the blue is harder it span up too easily on hard surfaces and wore out. On things like the pump track in the pictures, the mini pins are immense. 2) Connected to 1 - Be honest about where you drive. Having burnt through cool looking buggy tyres I now have a second set of wheels (Schumacher Flexlite read, Tamiya Dish Front both in black) with Schumacher RT1s and medium inserts for tarmac. 3) Suspension - I'm using the DF03 (not a typo, the 4WD car) setting springs, hard rear, softest front. Both are firmer than the kit springs. The DT-03 settings springs were right out because the colours would have looked rubbish if I'd needed the red ones. Yes, I am enough of a tart for that. Plus, couldn't see the point of a softer set of springs if the kit springs were in the middle. I saw the DF03 springs suggested on a thread on here I think. Great call. I got the TRF 54043 piston rods for the rear shock and standard CVA mini shock shafts 50601 for the front and used the kit sprues and some e-clips to convert the dampers to proper pistons. After some experimentation I'm running single hole pistons with the kit Soft Tamiya 400 CST oil 4) I got the anti roll bars, but have ended up not using them. Now I have the suspension firm enough to hold the car up it handles fine without the anti roll bars. IMHO. 5) I used the leftover ball studs from the unused roll bars to replace as many of the step screws in the damper mounts as possible. Much nicer and less rattly I got a bag of ball connectors (50591) to finish the job off, although the fronts need a bit of filing to get them to fit the wishbones. 6) Turnbuckles - Don't be a cheapskate like me and pick up a cheap DT02 set, as the steering arms don't fit! These do seen good for getting the grip up though. 2-3 neg both ends. 7) Driveshafts - I had no issues with the toughness of the plastic driveshafts, but I couldn't believe how much they restrict suspension movement. I didn't want to spend out on Universals as I'm not racing. I ended up taking a leaf out of the Sand Viper book and went to the metal driveshaft and cups. Only cost about a tenner for the parts, and the car stands up at the rear about another 10mm! They look better too, IMHO. Parts are: Shafts - Tamiya 9805551 Outdrives - Tamiya 9804237 Hub end cups - Tamiya 50823 8) Geared diff with the kit seems fine. I stuffed it with grease as advised somewhere on the internet and does fine for me. 9) Kimborough servo saver was a fiver well spent. Much more crisp steering. 10) Not sure if the Hop Up servo mount was £18 well spent, but it looks pretty and does look into the chassis and servo much more firmly. I'm open on this one as it's pretty expensive. Hope you like it, and hope that helps anyone looking at getting a DT-03. Cheers!
  5. I love my DT03 chassis, but the buggy bodies available for it are a bit rubbish in my opinion. Always been a bit jealous of the nice bodies that fit the 02. made it to proof of concept stage today. This is a Team Azarashi Quracca body which was originally released for the Kyosho RB5. I saw it cut to fit a TRF201 and thought it looked ridiculously cool. Did a bit of research on the RB5 and turns out it was a rear motor buggy with 285mm wheelbase, so not far off the 03. Sealed the deal that the UK Azarashi importer has a deal on these right now so took a punt. It isn't cut completely to the cut lines as you might expect. Around the front tower is cut to the most forward cut line. The body is trimmed low. I just took the mould sill off and as little as possible to tidy it up to give enough coverage of the chassis. The rear is cut on and off the cut line to fit up against the shock mount bulkhead. There is the odd bottom corner trim here and there to clear suspension. It is pretty snug in the cockpit for the ESC and Rx but i have pretty large versions of both. It uses the L shaped body posts from the kit and was pretty easy to mark the rears first, set the height then do the front. Wing is from the kit too. You get two different shaped wings. I picked the most interesting shape. Quite excited about this. Got some paint on order and the body comes with window masks and a load of Azarashi stickers if you like them. Very impressed. I'll post up when it's finished. What do you think?
  6. Besides the @Wooders28 front hex conversion and @ThunderDragonCy printed rear hub anyone tried different front C-Hub and rear hubs for the DT02/03? I’d like a few more arm mount options and was looking at the 201/DN-01 parts. EDIT / TLDR: Rear Hubs: alloy after market options are available, but very few hubs from other Tamiya cars fit properly, as seen below DF03 hubs and arms are a direct fit. Front hubs: DF03 hubs and arms fit. DN01/TRF201 hubs can be made to fit, 0/5 deg extra caster options. F103/104 uprights fit, both stock and TRF201 hubs 12mm hex conversion from the Schumacher Cougar KR is an easy fit and works with stock and TRF201 hubs. also this post for more hex front options And this post by @SlideWRX with a great 3d print design for new uprights.
  7. Im repurposing this thread to keep my builds in one place, leaving the posts about my TT02B Scorcher, linking to my Terra Scorcher thread for the pics and comments for when i put it together but i dont expect there to be much more happening in that thread. My Terra Scorcher build. Hey all! A couple of days back i started a Plasma Edge 2. This is the first ever kit im building and my first hobby grade RC car since a Marui Big Bear i had back in the nineties. (Had two or three toy grade cars since) A couple of years back i got back into RC with building/flying fpv drones and foamboard planes, was good fun but ive since fallen out of that, too much repairing compared to RCing, im hoping a car will be a bit less maintenance per battery pack In an earlier thread over in Other Makes i showed off the 3d print that got me back in RC this time, after getting that together i wanted to pick up a kit. I was looking between the Plasma Edge 2 and the Neo Fighter, both look real good but since id never had a 4wd i decided on the TT02B over the DT03, even tho it cost a bit more. Following the instructions to get it together was very straight forward after looking at a couple vids in preparation and building a 3d printed 1/10 rwd buggy a little earlier. As for pics of the build process ill go with "draw a circle, draw another circle, now draw the rest of the f###ing owl" rather than spamming lots of pics that most of everyone will have no interest in seeing. I followed along the instructions, only difference from box stock was adding in ball bearings. Since getting it to the above state ive had it out for a little test drive, so happy with how it moves, even if the ground was mostly frozen except for a little patch of gravel at work. Today i properly attached the antenna holder using the top hole on the inner servo mount, added some foam to the underside of the battery hold down to prevent rattling and added little shelf where a battery voltage alarm was attached as i dont know what, if any, lipo cut off the carson dragster 70A esc has (it was included in the kit rather than the tamiya esc i was expecting). I also designed and printed 10mm extensions for the shocks to hopefully give a bit more ground clearance. Sadly they turned out to be a bust as the arms will not go more than a mm or two lower. Was expecting them to be able to go down at least 10mm since they go up more than that but the cups for the drive axles hit the arms just slightly below horizontal. To get a bit more clearance ive put in an order for some 96mm tires on 12mm hex rims, its not a huge step up so hopefully ill be fine without changing the gearing, the rims should be large enough that they will fit over the axle carriers, offset wasnt specified but in case the included rims arent good ill just 3d print my own to fit. Until the new wheels (and some other random bits) arrive i figure im going to paint the body shell, from my tabletop mini hobby i have an assortment of acrylics and an airbrush, seeing that the proline body colors are water based i feel relatively sure they are also acrylics so i think ill be fine with what i already have. Im having a hard time deciding on how id want to paint it tho, the strongest thought i have is red because "Red Wunz Go Fasta", i think it would look nice with the visible black parts of the chassi, white shocks and black/white/blue/yellow of the decals. Will update upon more progress.
  8. I bought this DT03 Neo Fighter last year as a fun buggy. Most of the time, I'm racing my RC10s and Ultimas. I didn't realize this at first, but the kit I got is the super cheap one without the CVA dampers and ESC. I've added bearings, the DT03 turnbuckle set and a set of CVAs that originally came with my TD4. I've decorated it like my re-release Frog by combining the stock decal set with the re-release frog decal set. I think it looks pretty good aside from a few green paint bleeds which are mostly covered with decals. I will probably add a better pic...I was lazy today.
  9. Hey guys! I got a Neo Fighter for Christmas. I thought I'd take a break from my normal race RC10s and Ultimas. I've purchased a few basic hop-ups including bearings and the turnbuckle set. I know there's a damper set specifically for the DT03 but pics online seem to show an integrated metal shock shaft and piston. Is that how they come? I have about 6 or 7 sets of black plastic CVA shocks so I may be able to build a set of dampers out of the parts I have. Does anyone have the measurements of the front and rear lengths?
  10. *apologies to NJ’s second favourite son JBJ for the title* But man was I Livin’ on a Prayer hoping to find anything in stock in these difficult times, seems like any Tamiya kit is Wanted Dead or Alive. But when hope was lost I Kept the Faith and Fusion restarted their webshop coming though with the Aqroshot like a Blaze of Glory. Selling the Top Force was Bad Medicine but getting this basher is sweeter than a Bed Of Roses. I Regret Nothing.
  11. here is my review on my TRF DT03 on The RC Racer web site http://www.thercracer.com/2014/05/tamiya-dt03-trf-race-tips-and-review.html a few of you have seen my car run and heard about my trials and tribulations with car. Have a read and I hope it helps with your DT03.
  12. I couldn't find DT-03 turnbuckle set locally so I had this idea of just buying the parts separately. Looking at scanned manual of the set I found out that I need 3x65mm turnbuckle for steering, 3x38mm for the front, and 3x32mm for the rear along with the adjusters, ball connectors, and screws. Now for the adjusters I have still unbuilt DF-03 that I bought together with titanium turnbuckle set hop-up so there are plenty of unused adjusters from the kit I could use with no extra cost, pretty genius idea I thought at the time. So I found all necessary parts for front and rear, not the steering as I figured I can do that later and bought them. In the end I think it's still cheaper to import the set from abroad, oh well at least my turnbuckles are titanium. As for the adjusters, well this is where I need help from those actually owning the turnbuckle set. I tried to build the front turnbuckle using 3x38mm shaft and left 20mm gap as the manual told. However I found the result to be way too short, I suspect the adjusters I used on both end are not adequate; so much for my genius idea Thus the questions: -What's the length of adjuster used in DT-03 turnbuckle set? The manual only called it 5mm adjuster L (DF-03 adjuster length I used is around 18mm) -I found Tamiya part 54257 (5mm Reinforced Adjuster Gray), could this be correct size for my case? https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/option-parts/rc-5mm-reinforced-adjuster/ No info whatsoever on their dimension other than it's for 5mm ball connector, with google I can only found one online shop that add (LONG) to its name -Anyone else here who tried my approach instead buying the set, any tips? Especially the mounting parts, I tried to copy the set manual but maybe there's better way
  13. Hi Everyone! A sporting injury has given me some time off so I decided to dig out my 10 year old Keen Hawk DF03 and see if it still runs. Which to my surprise it still did, although the old NIMH batteries weren’t up to much. I also found my old TA02 which I had forgotten about. But that’s in bits. Brushless was becoming the norm when I last drove my RC cars, and I’m amazed by how much its progressed as I stumbled upon Lipo batteries as well. So the post man delivered a couple of lipos, a charger and a hobbywing 1060 and I was away, much to the delight of my 8 year old boy! so after looking through the forums, I have on route a Racing fighter DT03 so we both get to have turns I’m lucky as I live on a farm, with concrete, gavel and dirt yards plus plenty of grass. We even have a MX track so no doubt the cars will get a bashing!
  14. Getting back into the hobby again after a 10 or so year absence. I recently got my old Keen Hawk DF03 up and running, and my son loved it so much I don’t get a go anymore! Ive always fancied a two wheel drive buggy so ordered myself a Racing fighter to go with my Hawk. It all arrived today so the build begins!
  15. Hi All, Just clicked "Confirm" on the purchase of a Tamiya Neo Fighter Buggy (DT-03) Kit #58587 ($116 with shipping). I loved building my first RC car the TT-02 Subaru 99' Monte Carlo, Advice for First Time RC Car thread and now that I am finishing up that build want to start the next. I am curious about 2WD off road buggies and thought the Neo Fighter Buggy (DT-03) would be a good way to try out 2WD. The kit already comes with CVA shocks and I already have an ESC, battery, servo, and receiver. Are there any other "must have" hop ups for the Neo Fighter Buggy (DT-03) Build ? Thank you all ! The Tamiya Club was great and very supportive for the TT-02 build, cheers. See below a specific question about bearings. Notes: Servo Brushless Motor ESC Receiver Shocks Tires and Tires Rear Wing
  16. Hello all, I've recently completed the build of my Racing Fighter (for those who want to check it out, I'll leave a link to the video below). The car turned out great and I'm very pleased with the results, however the front end sits a bit low. I need to adjust the length of the CVA dampers that came with my kit, however I can't find anywhere in the instructions what the damper length should be. Does anyone know the correct damper lengths, particularly the front dampers? I've checked Tamiyabase.com and they don't have the information. Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
  17. Hi everyone! Newbie to the site, but a fair veteran of RC Car building! Having not built a car for the last 20 years, the whole bordom of lockdown saw me buying my first Tamiya car in a longgg time! I couldnt wait! So i wont bother showing the build of the Chassis, as at this moment its completly standard as it arrives out the box, and i'm sure most people have seen many pics of standard DT03 chassis's! However... i do have a whole plethra of Hop-Up parts on order and so i will show there fitment as and when each arrives in the post. But for now i thought i'd share my body shell paint up, as i never tend to paint the factory colours, i prefer to make mine abit more unique! So my plan for this car was to do a fade. Something which is pretty tricky with spray cans and not an airbrush system, and can go very wrong. But, i have plenty of time on my hands, so i could take my time. I'm going to do a Candy Blue fading to Black. Now i could have made my own life easier and just picked a Blue from the exsisting Tamiya Paint Pallet, but they dont do Candy's, and...well....i want a candy colour. So to do this, you need to use a Transparent Paint in this case PS-38 Trasparent Blue, and then use a Chrome/Silver as the backing colour... in my case PS-48 Semi Gloss Silver Anodised Aluminium. So now i have to fade THREE colours into each other DOH! First i start with the Blue, building up with lots of very light coats, and being very careful with fading towards the back of the car. I actually initially masking an area at the back of the car i wanted to make sure would definitly become BLACK. But because you dont want a obviously masked line in the paint, you have to take this off halfway through and still allow some over spray into the area. I also made a little carboard blocking board to again help with the overspray. I think in the end, i must have done around 10 thin coats of the Blue, untill it was a level in the of the areas of the car i was happy with. EG more heavy layers towards the front, and getting thinner towards the back. Next came adding the Chrome Silver backer. Now, this i ONLY want ontop of the Blue, and no where near the area i want Black. Now as Silver/Chrome is an opaque colour, and i want the candy blue to darken into Black, you actually have to leave some exposed thin blue towards the back, so that when you spray Black, it darkens the Blue down. But Black won't really have an effect on the silver chrome. So its tricky, and you just have to be so patient, and take your time building lots of the thin coats up, as if you whack a big heavy coat on and its in the wrong place, its game over. So i think in total i must have done around 6 or 7 coats of the Chrome. Pay attention to the fact the Chrome fade is further up than the blue actually is! Now comes the Black, in this case PS-5 Black. At this point, again taking your time to build up lots of even thin layers rather than being tempted to ruin all your hard work with a couple of thick laters of paint. I started to build the black up from the back, making sure to cover all the way past the fade point. As the back of the car was intended to be black, i decided to paint the spoiler just plain black, so i didnt bother showing that getting sprayed up. Then once you've checked your work by holding it up to a light, checking for weak patches. Time to leave to cure overnight. This is the result. Still with all the masking and overspray film on! But you can see its looking good! In total, i think it must have been around 22/23 coats of paint. THEN is the moment of truth....removing the masking and film!..... see next post!
  18. Hopefully this is in the right place, it makes more sense than in the 'Builds' section since it's really just a modification... We've been through a lot together, me and my £50 DT-02. A lot of batteries, that is. It's probably my favourite runner. They're tough as old boots and have really predictable handling, with a tight turning circle, decent ground clearance and good weight balance for jumping! Problem is, there aren't many on-road-suitable tyre options for the DT-02/03 buggies. There's the Carson All-Terrain wheel set, which has sold out pretty-much everywhere during the Covid-19 lockdown. These are generally black or chrome wheels in a design which I don't particularly like, though, and you're kinda stuck with them. The other option is the front wheels of a Tamiya QD touring car from the 2000's, which had twin 1150 bearing front wheel fittings, based on a touring-car sized 52mm rim. Then you're kind of stuck with the CC01 range of tyres, or some crawler tyres, which aren't really appropriate as they're generally too soft. There is the pricey option of Tamiya Street Rover wheels and tyres, but your tyre options are limited and as said, this is an expensive route! So what about hex front wheels? There's this option from GPM which I tried originally: Unfortunately, they just don't work. The wheel nut still has to be tight against the wheel, clamping it in place. The only way the wheels can 'freewheel' is to back the nut off a couple of turns. Then you'll find the nuts will fall off when you run it. Not good, sorry GPM. Some internet searching led me full-circle back to the TamiyaClub website, where a 2017 post from member 'Pininy' (who sadly doesn't seem to be registered on the forum) listed some parts and a small modification to convert the front of a DT-02 to hex-fitment. Massive thanks to him (or her??) I'm just re-documenting how this all goes together below. Parts required: 3Racing FGX-107 - Sakura FGX Parts Part G 3Racing FGX-124 - Heavy Duty Wheel Axle For 3racing Sakura FGX 4x 850 ball-bearings (5 x 8 x 2.5mm) 2x 2x10mm pin (for hex) - Tamiya 50594 2x 5mm ball connectors - Tamiya 50592 4x 5mm ball end (short) - Tamiya 50797 Option parts I used: Tamiya 53828 DT-02 Turnbuckle Suspension and Tie-Rod 2x 22mm hinge pin & e-clips 2x 1.5mm x 3mm spacer So these are the current hop-up tyres I had fitted after wearing-out the kit ones last year: I think they have a little bit of life left in them if I use them on grass! Here are the wheels and tyres I want to fit: DF-03 front and rear wheels, which are obviously 12mm hex fit. Fitting the rear wheels of course is very straightforward: And there are no issues with clearance etc. The front end has to come apart next: There's quite a lot of wear on that little pin-screw which holds the front upright in the C-hub. I decided to replace these after finding that 3x22mm hinge-pins fit, more on that later. You need to modify the front C-hubs to get enough clearance for the new knuckles. I did a quick and simple job with a Dremel, you could likely do it much neater if you had the inclination! You can even see all the black debris from the grinding tool un-ceremoniously sprayed up the side of the body! Here are the new parts required: They go together like so, I have fitted the 5mm ball connector to the pin closer to the axle for maximum steering angle: I strongly suspect that the axles can be the commonly-found M-Chassis items from Tamiya, but I didn't have one to-hand in order to check sizing etc. But they fit in exactly the same manner, so I can see no reason why it wouldn't work. This is it all fitted. I used the 3x22mm hinge pin, retained the small metal shim at the base of the knuckle (as per DT-02 standard instructions) and required that 1.5mm blue spacer to take out the vertical travel of the pin. At this point I fitted both sides and re-connected the steering tie-rods. Unfortunately, I had an un-holy amount of toe-out, as the arms were now too long (the ball connector has moved inwards from the stock items). I replaced the adjuster ends from the 53828 hop-up set with 4nr of the standard 5mm short adjusters, like so: Ta-da: Then it was time for wheels-on. I haven't taken any pictures but it's naturally the same as the rear-end, 2x10mm pin goes into the hole on the axle, 12mm hex over the top (included in the 3Racing parts) then the wheel and the locknut. And this image hopefully shows why you have to modify the front C-hubs for the knuckle to clear on full-lock: Then you're ready to go: This opens up a huge aftermarket for optional wheels and tyres, especially at 2.2" buggy size. I have some road slicks on order which I will fit to this and update with some pictures. Crucially: there are no clearance issues front or rear, and whilst you have a smidge of added ground-clearance with this setup, the chassis still bottoms-out before the dampers reach full travel, thereby protecting those precious shock towers!
  19. Morning everyone Done a quick search but couldn't find the answer 😬 got a DT 03 Neo fighter build planned (waiting for stock) currently ain't we all 😭 so currently planning build Hop Ups ....watched a few videos on the Tube regarding using a heavier grade oil in the rear shocks to improve the ride,what's the grade you guys recommend and any links too products 👍 other possible upgrades are full ball race and would like the 'turnbuckle' set up on the rear 💪 plus carbon towers front and rear but sourcing these at moment aaaaargh 🤯 also whilst I am on would like a rear tarmac tyre option and a better front ribbed tyre option so what you got for me 😆 Thanks everyone
  20. Hi Guys, Have just finished building a Racing Fighter with my son. It’s run for about 1.5 hours but has now developed an annoying clicking noise from the gearbox. It does it when driving forwards and backward but its worse when going backwards. It has no effect on the speed that the car moves at though. Also, the rear wheels only spin in opposite directions intermittently when being turned manually. The rest of the time only one wheel spins and the other doesn’t move at all. To be honest I didn’t check the diff was working properly when I first built it so don’t know if it’s always been like this or has developed this problem at the same time as the clicking noise. Ive stripped and rebuilt the diff and box 3 times now and can’t cure either problem. Any ideas or tips would be appreciated as my son is rapidly losing interest! Thank you.
  21. Hope the group mods don't mind me posting this, but after testing by me and a racer i know have decided I am confident enough in my DT02/3 3 deg toe in uprights to offer them for sale. I have opened a Shapeways store called CTE RC (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/cotic-rc) and have put them on there with a few of my other designs. There are fitting instructions on the part links on the store. No one else makes toe in uprights for these chassis which is why i did them. Hopefully some of you might find them useful, or fun, or just a nice colour (There are about 10 colour options). Here's a pic of Andy's cool DT02 and DT03 race cars and my DT03 truggy with them installed. There is a full installation and rundown over on by DT03 Build log The improvements I wanted was to reduce the size and make the uprights dedicated to the metal driveshafts. The kit uprights are bulky and bind on the wishbones. As you can see in this comparison, the new uprights allow about 10mm more suspension travel, which gives more roll capacity and more grip. No one else makes toe in uprights for these chassis which is why i did them. If you race you will find these a big step forward from the kit version. Andy (my tame racer) reports more rear end grip and stability and the ability to get on the throttle earlier out of corners. He was able to dial in more front end grip because the rear was better. Also reported it had a bigger impact on performance in the DT03 on astro than the DT02. Hopefully some of you might find them useful, or fun, or just a nice colour (There are about 10 colour options). If you would like to order they are available as individual left and right items. Left: https://www.shapeways.com/product/DHAWQ2DWJ/tamiya-dt02-3-rear-upright-3-deg-toe-in-lh?optionId=65301051 Right: https://www.shapeways.com/product/FPEB2TSM2/tamiya-dt02-3-rear-upright-3-deg-toe-in-rh?optionId=65300950 Cheers!
  22. I've got a DT03 black edition with the torque tuned motor and the Stadium Thunder with the sport tuned motor. To me, it sounds like the truck would be better with the torque motor and the buggy with the sport motor. I'm considering making the switch but what do you guys think? It should be a direct swap right? The DT03 is a 19T pinion and the Stadium Thunder is a 13T pinion.
  23. Hi All, Came back to RC few weeks by restoring a 20 years old FF01 chassis. It was fun, I like it but unfortunately quickly broke one of the front pieces. While waiting for a spare part (quite hard to find) I was thinking that a buggy would probably better fit with my idea of RC fun. After few hesitations, I finally ordered a basic Neo Fighter as it seems quite fun, easy to find and cheap replacement parts while open to some tuning. It's a standard one (EU model with oil damper kit) and just added the ball bearing kit. I unfortunately didn't took picture as I was building it but here is the final result. It was my first in a long time trial for body paint and I wanted to customize it a bit. Result is not as I expected but kids love the result so it's ok. I wished the body to be more red (guess its because of the green applied on top of it, should have applied a kind of white intermediate? As well as the wheels, I tried to color the white plastic in red but failed at selection of the good product Now waiting to run it but it dosn't stop to rain since it's finished...
  24. Brand new in box with Tamiya ESC (company cancelled my order due to no stock then fulfilled it anyway - grrrr - so have 2 kits now) The DT-03 Racing Fighter special black Edition is as per a new Tamiya Racing Fighter with some extras and hop ups:- Hi-Torque Servo Saver (Black) (51000) - £10 DT-03 Lightweight Gear Shaft (5x45mm/2pcs.) (54560) - £2.50 DT-03 Full Turnbuckle Set (54572) - £15 4mm Flange Lock Nut (Black, 8pcs.) (54642) - £3 RS-540 Torque-Tuned Motor (54358) - £13 DT-03 CVA Damper Set (54567) - £20 Im in the U.K. Happy for local delivery or collection (free) or postage to EU (£12) £150 JJ
  25. For sale unused shocks all but one are new Tamiya 19402709 / Tamiya 54567, 1 set of front and rear black oil cva shocks, suitable for dt-01, dt-02, dt-03, df-02, tt-02B, NIP (new in pack), sealed, fixed piston type £15 inc. UK shipping next up... 1x used but cleaned and un-assembled thundershot / fire dragon / terra scorcher set of front yellow cva oil shocks in great condition, £12 inc. UK shipping next up... Tamiya 84347 CW-01 short shock set ONLY parts for 2 CVA shocks! could also be used for rear of dt-01,dt-02,dt-03 etc comes with soft rear springs, normal pistons and attachment parts £14 inc. UK shipping next up... Tamiya 19402709 / Tamiya 54567, 1 set of rear ONLY white oil cva shocks, suitable for dt-01, dt-02, dt-03, df-02, tt-02B, NIP (new in pack), sealed, fixed piston type no screws, ball connectors inc. this time just shock parts and oil bottle comes with normal dt-02, dt-03 rear springs, ideal for WT-01 if you have alloy shock towers (might need stiff springs though) £12 inc. UK shipping each. 2 sets of these are available next up... Tamiya 84366 wr-02 cva mini shock set in yellow, 2 shocks only, no attachment parts and fixed pistons, no oil bottle can be used also for dt-01, g6-01, gf-01, dt-02, dt-03 etc but you would need longer springs £10 inc. UK shipping Paypal gift please Going on ebay Sunday if no one here wants them
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