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Found 10 results

  1. DaveB

    DB01-R "Evo"

    A refresh is long overdue for my DB01-R: The original plan was just to do a full strip down and rebuild onto a new chassis tub, but I then got a bit distracted over at Plaza Japan and ended up ordering quite a few new parts! I was keen to get hold of an RR or RRR chassis tub, as this is moulded to accept square pack lipos. Unfortunately you can't get them anywhere so I managed to source a brand new R chassis instead. The R chassis still allows for a square pack, but it sits a little higher due to the traditional 7.2 pack mouldings. I'm aware that you can mod this with a Dremal tool but I'm not overly concerned as its worked fine to this point. Interestingly, the DB01-R has its own unique chassis, different to the Durga and Baldre. It looks very similar so I'm guessing it's primarily materials: I was tempted to just buy a full RR or RRR kit, but I'm not a fan of gear diffs, and I kind of don't want to part with my original R if I'm honest. So the plan is to take all the best parts from the RR and RRR chassis and mod them on to mine, and at the same time refresh some of the key components. The main mods I have planned will be fitting the big bore aeration dambers and adding the rear upright setup used for the RRR. This uses the reinforced XV01 uprights and a few other bits. Other minor mods will include adding the aluminium motor plate and some hop up steering components along with a new 6.5t motor (the original one imploded!). The first few parts have arrived: Anyway, if anyone is interested in seeing this project let me know and I'll attempt to add the progress to this thread. Dave
  2. I currently have my eyes on the df03 dark impact and the db01 durga, now i understand that the durga is a much superior chassis, although i can’t just let go of the fact that the dark impact is that much better in the looks department (for my personal taste anyway) especially with the livery i’ve come up with for it. With some upgrades, would the dark impact stack up to the durga? would its high ground clearance be important to the performance in terms of bashing? Attached is the livery i mentioned if anyone is interested
  3. I fancy getting a new 4wd buggy and having read around although the dark impact offers tons of hop-ups and replacements, the DB01 seems to be the more popular. Does anyone happen to have a NIB one for sale? I'm based in the UK.
  4. On advise from your good selves I bought a DB01 (no R/RR/RRRs available). Unfortunately, I didn't follow the advise about just the essential hop ups and got carried away with shiney, ££, blue bits. Any mistakes or advise on the build would be appreciated. Observations so far: You don't seem to need hex screws or tapping tools (not done the turn buckles yet). A good JIS screwdriver is sufficient. If you've bought a load of hop ups, acquaint yourself with the R-RRR manuals as I've had to jump around the instructions a bit and go back a couple of times. Diff build No clue if I've got this right but here are a couple of tips that I hope are useful (I've gone for a 501 outdrive on the rear): "Use 10 ceramic balls, 2 steel balls, one at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o clock (this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth). Use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build up. Use Tamiya anti-wear grease in thrust race. Then cover sides of diff with a sticker or die cut covers.... PS this technique came from a TRF works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!" Use Unibond Repair Extreme glue due to its high temperature tolerance. "Some people offer the advice of tightening the diffs -all the way- and then backing the screw off a couple turns. All I can say is "PLEASE Don't Do It!!". The diff spring will become crushed an ineffective before too long and your thrust bearing and K4 parts will most likely get damaged as well. A damaged thrust bearing alone will cause problems with the diff loosening itself continually.. Replace any parts that may have already become damaged before proceeding with the steps below.. "The best way to set the diff is via the instructions on page 5 of the manual.. Unfortunately Tamiya does not explain these steps very well and the diagram they show is kind of confusing. "What they are trying to show is that it is best to tighten your diff 'just enough' so that the pulley cannot turn freely when both of the diff joints are held in place.. Basically you should tighten the screw a few turns, stick a couple allen keys between the joints, hold them in place and try to rotate the plastic pulley by hand.. If you can turn it easily, then it is too loose. Give the diff screw another turn or two and test it again until the pulley will not turn freely while the diff joints are held in place.. This is pretty much the perfect setting." Electronics Since I've already broken my budget and having read good things, I was gonna go for Trackstar electronics. I'll mainly be bashing but would like the option to race. I was gonna go for the TrackStar 8.5T Sensored Brushless Motor V2 3807KV (ROAR approved) but noticed the spec says maximum 50A. Is a 60A ESC a no go? It also says 1-2S Lipo. Does that mean it won't take a 3S? I was thinking of going 2S anyway as I'm new to rc and don't want to smash the thing up (it fits the chasis better too)? Trackstar TS-920 servo seems an easy choice.
  5. I've just taken the plunge and bought the newly released DB01-RRR. I'm relatively new to RC (after 30yrs!), and I wanted a high-spec 4WD basher and to be able to pretend I could take it racing if I wanted And the RRR seemed to fit the bill and be quite good value. I've just finished the chassis build, and have transferred some basic brushed/NiMH electronics across from my DT-03 to do some indoor check runs. But I want to try out LiPO for the first time - and also take the opportunity to see how good today's fast 4-pole brushless motors are. So I have in mind: Trackstar 4-pole 4850kV motor Hobbywing 120A ESC A mid-range Turnigy digital servo LiPO 3S (Turnigy nanoTech, or similar) I do have a couple of questions for other DB01 owners. Firstly, how does the above seem feasible (if a little overpowered)? And secondly, how big a LiPO battery can you fit into the chassis? 139x45mm seems the maximum footprint, but how high can I go? 27mm looks very possible, especially with the flatter carbon strap. But has anyone fit in a 30+mm square LiPO? thanks
  6. This has been gathering dust on my garage shelf and really needs to go to a good home. It's got a few hopups fitted, including: Alloy hinge pin blocks Slipper clutch (with associated pads). CVDs on the rear B44 shocks with the full array of tuning springs two unused gear diff units (£34 quid each on ebay!) Full hex hardware Reinforced belt covers. Plus a load of other spares, a set of wheels, the original unused wheels & tyres, and all the bits to build the original shocks. A few bits are missing - such as the wing mounting wedges. I just ordered a new B parts tree off ebay so it will be complete by the time of sale. Looking for £120 posted. I'm based near Cardiff. Clockwork pig timer not included.
  7. Hi, Looking forward to upgrade my Durga with brushless motor, ESC and Lipo battery. I am looking for speed but not to run the motor too hot either. But fast. I don't know where to start. If anyone can please recommend what brushless motor, ESC and Lipo battery kit that I can just purchase and upgrade. What else do I need to do besides upgrading those 3 components? Again thanks!
  8. I have been in contact with RW Racing and I'm planning on putting together an order for some of there 91t spur gears - these are no longer available apart from directly through them, so I was wondering if anyone required one (or a few) and I can put together a bulk order and maybe even get a discount. Let me know if you're interested. thanks
  9. I was wondering who still runs there DB01 chassis cars these days and was hoping to spark some general discussion regarding this classic 4WD buggy. What are your essential upgrades for this car? I run a DB01-R which is pretty stock apart from a machined spur gear, ceramic diff balls, ally steering and a carbon battery strap (plus some hex screws for the belt cover). I'm considering upgrading the rear uprights as this seems a weak spot on the chassis, have any of you opted for the TRF aluminium rear uprights, if so, what degree, and do you need to use an adaptor to make it fit or is it a straight swap? Any and all info welcome, plus I'd love to see your hop-ups list thanks
  10. Hello All! I have been asked to advise a fellow modeller on which brushless motor, ESC and LiPo to buy for his new DB-01 Durga. Trouble is, my experience is limited to brushed motors and NiMH batteries, and I do not own a Durga. So, could those of you who run the things please help us out? I know the Durga has quite a uniquely-shaped shell, and I am not sure what the battery bay looks like, so I am quite keen to hear from Durga owners who can recommend gear that will fit the chassis and shell, as well as provide suitable power. Suggestions? Thanks!
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