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Found 22 results

  1. The seller keeps dropping the prices randomly. I got a 5500mah 3s for £7.99 and 2x 3300mah 3s for £6.99! They had 4x 1500mah for £5.99 the other day too. I've got a couple of Floureon packs and they have been fine for me so it might be worth it for a bargain. It's the same seller I got mine off over a year ago too. They use different accounts but the accounts are all "based" in Southall UK so you can tell it's the same seller. Almost certainly a Chinese seller but mine came from Germany so they have stock in Europe at least. UPDATE: Apparently they are available on US ebay too?
  2. Hey Guys, I ran into two maintenance issues. First off, I keep breaking my MST SP1 +3 wheels. I broke 3 wheels in winter, in a parking garage, which was probably due to the cold weather. But then, two more wheels snapped in hot weather. One broke after repeated small impacts while doing wallruns. Due to my own stupidity, basically. But one broke without any reasonable explanation. All of them snapped were the spoke connect to the hub thingy in the inside, even though they're quite beefy. (For MST wheels at least) Also, last week I started charging ne of my Yuki Brainergy LiPos, left the room, came back after a few minutes, and found the charger (robbe Power Peak Uni7) flashing it's LED. Pulled the Plug, opened the bag, LiPo is swollen. Polarity and and balancer were all connected properly. Then, I charged my other LiPo, and it took several hours longer than usually, Eventually, I just disconnected it, even though the charger wasn't finished with it. It wasn't hot or swollen or anything out of the ordinary, so I chucked it in the car, drove two really long sessions without the battery dying. Took it out, and Surprise! Swollen! The battery is mounted on a custom aluminum battery tray, which has flat screw heads protruding from it (about one milimeter, maybe 1.5). However, both batteries show no sign of damage were the screws are. The lower edges seem slightly scuffed, though. Seriously, what am I doing wrong? What's the dealß Bad plastic in the wheels? Broken charger? Bad luck? Please stop my descent into insanity, this is wrecking my nerves, as well as my bank balance.
  3. for sale vintage stadium blitzer original upgraded lrp esc for lipos, upgraded motor, front alloy c-hubs comes with receiver and transmitter, just put a battery and run it SOLD
  4. Just getting back into the scene after years away. In the past I ran nitro, now I'm going electric. Finally figuring out this lipo and brushless stuff, but I'm at decision point. Awaiting my new TT02 White edition kit in the mail, and I need to order a motor/esc combo but I have no idea where to even begin with regards to what I need. Here's what I know: 1) It has to be compatible with the 2s lipos I already have. (One 4000mah and one 6500mah) 2)I need both motor and esc so a combo makes sense. 3) Want to keep price around $100 or less. This article has a ton of options but I don't know what the differences are. https://www.onkidstoys.com/top-21-best-esc-motor-combos/ I'm going to be racing at a local track doing rally. The guys who go there suggested this combo: https://www.hobbytown.com/xerun-justock-zero-spec-sensored-brushless-esc-motor-combo-13.5t-by-hobbywing-hwa38020401/p453305 This is one I keep seeing advertised: Http://www.horizonhobby.com/KXSS0500?utm_medium=display&utm_source=criteo&utm_campaign=productremarketing&utm_content=KXSS0500&CA_6C15C=320011980000459400 Happy to take suggestions. Don't need the world's fastest motor but I'd like to be competitive. Thanks!
  5. MadInventor

    3S LiPo Mad Bull mod

    As the speed run thread has started a new category for silver can cars, I thought I'd have a go at it with my Mad Bull. I've been wanting to mod the chassis for a while now to improve on the stock steering installation, and also want to be able to use LiPo battery packs. So the first thing to do was to remove the excess protrusions from the inside of the chassis and make a slot in the back of the bathtub: to allow fitment of the LiPo into the chassis: After that I made a new plate to install the steering servo. The plate allows the servo to be mounted lower so I can bin the stock steering connecting rod, which I replaced with a old 3 step speedo connecting rod. I also machined a slot into the back of the plate to retain the radio tray, which is going to sit behind it: This next pic shows the steering servo fitted, and the foam I fitted either side of the LiPo to hold it rigid in the chassis: This is new radio tray, which when secured also holds the battery in the chassis: It's held in at the front with slots machined into both plates: Made some brass 'body mounts' to screw into the chassis to hold the radio tray down: Radio tray fitted with body mounts. I can remove it by just pulling the 2 body pins. The next pic shows the radio tray populated, there's even room for the GPS speed meter: I can even read the GPS through the drivers window Not bad for a (long) days work, tried it out on the drive in the dark but it's been raining so nothing but wheelspin and white sparks coming out of the motor at full throttle. Need to wait for an opportunity now to run it and get a good speed measurement.
  6. Hello wonderful people, I have been lurking and reading/learning/envying a while but now I need help lol The Mrs and I got each other blitzer beetles for xmas (woop) and I was intending on putting a brushless set up in mine. I went for one of these, as it was in my toolbox for some reason http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41130__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A_UK_Warehouse_.html Got it set up and with a two cell lipo, however I'm getting serious cogging and the power seems somewhat delayed. Its set up with a 13t steel pinion (recommended lots on here thank you) Any suggestions on getting the cogging sorted? Might be worth noting that if i hold the car off ground it doesn't cog but the power delivery still seems off somehow. Thanks!
  7. Well I’m happy to say that I’m the proud owner of a vintage Clod Buster that I won on eBay this morning (apologies to any TC members who I sniped I just had to have one in my life!) I’ll pick her up tomorrow and the plan is to bring her back to box art so I can re-live yet another missed childhood dream. Couple of questions… Firstly, would you guys recommend keeping the original shell as the runner and purchasing a new body & decals for the shelf or should I restore the body and just have the one? I plan on running her, how hard I’m not sure but she will do some clodding around… Just not sure if it’s financially viable to go ahead and purchase a new shell and decals… From what I can gather it looks like $200AUD is about the cheapest I could get that for!!! The second question is around electrics… I want to use LiPo’s and an ESC – I’ll probably just keep the motors or put in maybe Sport Tuned in there. What is a good reasonably prices ESC and also servos for this truck in your opinions? My days are passed of purchasing the highest quality Hitec servos (literally been there done that with the 1/5 gas cars) so now am all about the balance of good enough, cheap enough as I am yet to find problems even with Turnigy Lipo’s and Hobby King servos! But the torque recommendations would be appreciated. I am using this in the Bruiser, which seems ok: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=51179 I have read on here that a few have used this, however with the Clod do I need two or a specific two motor esc? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__46161__HobbyKing_X_Car_45A_Brushed_Car_ESC_AU_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=HobbyKing%20X-Car%2045A%20Brushed%20Ca Anyhow, thanks guys for the brains trust.
  8. I just want to check this before I set it on mine as I am weary of ruining any of my batteries... Should the cut off voltage on my EZrun be set at 3.2v for 2S batteries? I had it set to 3.4v but the voltage cut off was kicking in as soon as I gave it a burst of acceleration. I have been using it with no lipo cut off recently but just using a 3rd party alarm to alert me but I would rather use the built in function if possible. Thanks
  9. cjm_wales

    3d printing - isn't it great?

    Hi, second post My name is Craig and I've been a tamiya nut since getting my first proper RC car aged 12 (a midnight pumpkin). I'm now 38, and with the disposable income I could only dream about as a kid, I'm reclaiming old racing memories I decided I fancied getting another TA04 & put a wanted ad up on Oople a few months back. A friendly ex eurocup racer got in touch to tell me about the Iconic Cup - a two round summer championship for eurocup refugees. So I went and bought two TA04 chassis - one for stock, and the other for full-blown 13.5 blinky. I then went on to spend an absolute fortune on hop-ups! One of the major problems with these older chassis is that they were designed for 7.2v 6-cell Nimh packs. None of my top spec lipo sticks would fit, so I went and bought a couple of the core rc lipo stick packs, which fit perfectly. But I also wanted to race in 17.5 blinky at the cotswolds club, and the C rating on the core lipos didn't give the neccesary top end. I have 4 turnigy 90c shorty packs that physically fitted into the battery slot (I'm running the carbon re-enforced tub) but I had no way of keeping it from moving about. So I decided I'd download and install google sketchup, take a few measurements of the pack & slot size, and have a go at designing something to keep the pack secure in the chassis. It went rather well at the first attempt! Very satisfying! I'm planning on seeing if I can get a 16 year old car to compete with the modern machinery I'm also planning on restoring my super astute shortly.
  10. Can anyone recomment a 2s Lipo for an M03 with bullet connectors that fit into the top of the back? I've been using my hardcase stick packs in racing but recently two packs have been damaged and will no longer charge. Because the wires come out the end of the battery, they're liable to get bashed when racing. The main power wires have lost their protective sheath so I'll need to repair them properly before they can be run again, but worse, the balance wires have broken away from the electrodes inside so the packs won't balance. I'll have to try to resolder them without damaging the cells. Years ago, most M03 racers used to use a rounded stick pack with bullet connectors that fitted from the top, keeping them out of harms way. This would be perfect, not only for M03s but also many other vintage Tamiyas where a LiPo stick pack doesn't quite want to fit properly, or where the wires have to be badly kinked to squeeze them in. But in all my searching, I can't find any like that any more. Are they still available? Any other advice for racing an M03 with LiPos? We're not allowed to modify the chassis to fit square packs and we're not allowed to use soft-case LiPos.
  11. So my 14.4v Clod/TXT Hybrid has spent the last few years in pieces after breaking yet more ball ends, and since I've thrown out all my dodgy old NiMH packs I've had nothing to power it anyway, as I don't fancy discharging my faithful lipos and ruining them. I really need a big-wheel truck back in my life again, so this winter will involve rebuilding it from the ground up, junking the overweight TXT chassis in favour of something lean, leaving plenty of space low-down for a 4s lipo (or two 2s lipos). I've got a new set of Traxxas Titan motors to go right in (reverse-timed motor is awesome!) but what I don't have is a lipo-ready speed controller. I don't really want to blow a month's wages on something crazy, I don't need all sorts of advanced features - all I need is dual motor outputs, lipo cutoff and up to 4s power. The standard Traxxas EVX2 is probably perfect but UK prices are high - although I could consider importing from the US, some sellers seem to be breaking them out of new models for less than half UK prices. Anything else worth considering? Thanks
  12. Hello Hello Hello, Hi, Ok I have just decided to build a second Tamiya model car and following on from my Lunch box (which has had a lot of mods), I have decided that I want SPEED... Krazy speed... So the plan is go nuts! I reckon up the voltage, start with a camel hump NIMH (yeah 11.1v LIPO would be sweet but expensive) probberly 8.4v or 9.6v mixed with a quicker brushed motor 14t Losi motor if it can handle the volts. An Etronix probe ESC could handle 8.4v and shouldn't mind a Losi motor. Another plus is both are cheaper then standard Tamiya 27t stuff. Well maybe not. Shocks, I may just see what I can get out of the Tamiya CVA's but will have to be firmer for roads, also I have some lunch box springs going spare. great if you want very hard suspension on CVA's. Obviously need a 2.4 Ghz radio but that's a must on any car in my opinion and a Mr T driver. Tyres.... Ok I'll get back to you on tyres. This could take awhile as I do have a real car to keep on the road and a GF to keep happy, shall be an on going thread, if any one has any ideas, advice or just wants to see how things are going please post away. Ando
  13. I hope someone can help, I went to my local rc club recently, and they had a micro car race going on. So I thought it was time to unleash the gb01 frog and gb03 hotshot. They've both got aeration dampers and some other trick bits, but they are slow! Now I've gone the brushless lipo route with nearly every other car I have, and I want to try the same with these. I reckon the ezrun 18t or 12t is the set up for me, although the 12t might be too much?!? I'm also struggling finding a lipo to fit the battery bay. Can anyone help? It needs to be 100mm x 32mm x17mm. Many thanks in advance
  14. Hi everyone, So 29 years after my parents purchased a Tamiya Hornet and so very badly wanting a Fox, I finally have one. Its in pretty ordinary shape, could have found a better car I'm sure but it came with the box and most of the original packaging. Now for the rebuild. Its not destined for the shelf, its not going to be rebuilt strictly from original 1985 release parts, probably 58577 bits to be honest. I've purchased a re-re Wild One for my daughter whos shown a love for RC so It will only be a weekend runner. I dont care about breaking stuff, i'l just fix it. So, I've ordered a truck load of new parts, all tree's, parts and screw bag as well as heaps of alloy and upgrade parts such as a Thorpe ball diff. Now for my questions, and bear with me cause its been 30 years since I played with a Tamyia. Lipo, brushless, 2.4ghz radios etc werent around in my time. 1. The upgraded Thorpe diff should handle more power but do I go with a traditional brushed motor or step up to a brushless system? and if so any recommendations on a kv? or If I stick with tradition how may turn motor? What are the better motor esc combos in both options. There's plenty of combos (motor/esc) around the $150 AUD mark but whats worthwhile and what will likely go up in smoke. 2./ A lot of esc's these days are forced cooled, any recommendations of cooling mods given the Fox's closed body design? 3./ To go lipo or not? I guess the power system needs to match the drive system. I'm chasing more torque and power increases and looking for more run-time from whatever system employed. 4./ Is there a decent charger capable of charging multiple battery types? So in closing, I'm looking to build a quick, reliable Fox with decent run-time. Lastly, a quality dependable radio and receiver combo. Thanks in advance guys, I'll post progression photos as parts start to arrive and its rebuilt. Cheer Daniel.
  15. I hope someone can help. After much deliberation I took the plunge and bought a used topforce. I'm going to do a full strip and rebuild, and run it with a brushless set up and 2s lipo. Has anyone got any suggestions for the battery tray fittings to get the lipo in. my current lipo dimensions are 136x45x22mm, so it's just a smidgen too long for the standard battery end bars. Many thanks
  16. Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone with some more experience that I can help with my inquiry.... I have recently put together a new Tamiya Wild One re-issue and need some help finding a lipo battery pack that will fit into the standard battery compartment. I tried this model: RC Turnigy 4000mAh 2S 30C Lipo Pack .... but it was too big. Can anyone please advise what will fit without modification and provide similar (or more) power and run time? Or is there a modification that WIld One owners are performing to accommodate lipos? Any help is appreciated it advance.
  17. hi all, I thought it may be useful to start a thread dedicated to li-po stick packs that fit Tamiya cars as I haven't seen any detailed single source for this issue, please do add links if you have seen one elsewhere , I think I would useful if you could give any details about fit and if you had to make any mods to get the pack to fit , I have only tried the yeah racing 3200 2s li-po packs ,they are a bit too long but workable and have proven to be quite strong and reliable , I had to use cable ties to hold them in the mad bull , for the M chassis I ended up using the quick release battery holder with 6mm of spacers on each side , I used cable ties to get it to stay in the king cab too , will add more as I try them
  18. Hi there everyone, I've decided to post a bit of a walk-through of my transmitter conversion to LiPo batteries. It's ultimately as simple as plug and play but I learned a few things along the way. NB: The "David said" bits are an artefact of me using the 'quote' tags. I couldn't find a better way to format the text into blocks. More to come... (field testing)
  19. So I've decided to finally move to a rechargeable battery pack for my Tx and am dumping the single cells, I have a few questions, any insight? 1. My Tx has an accurate battery voltage display and a low battery warning but these can't be configured or set. I assume the low battery warning will not be calibrated for LiPo and I should not depend on that - good assumption? 2. Assuming I can't rely on the warning, I can leave the Tx display on charge level when I'm running (I don't need to view the other screens whilst running) but what level is "low" for a 11.1v 3s? 3. Even though the packs are cheap I'd prefer an alarm - can I fit an inline LV alarm/cutoff between the Tx and battery pack? The Rx has steering and throttle fail safes so if the Tx cuts the vehicle will roll to a stop in a straight line. 4. What would happen if somebody plugged a charger into the charging port on my Tx if the LiPo pack was plugged in? Should I snip the wires as a precaution? 5. Am I being paranoid... 6. I see 1450mah all the way up to 3600mah... really I'll probably charge the Tx pack each time I charge my race packs, how long could I expect a fully charged 1450mah pack to last (my Tx manual only calls for a 700mah pack)? 7. Should I be asking any other dumb or intelligent questions? Tks.
  20. smegs

    f104

    Anyone know what battery will fit inside.
  21. I have been reading a lot on this web site about people being unsure about swtiching to lipo batteries. It is all very safe as long as you use the 'C' rating formula. the formula is this battery capacity x 'C' rating = esc amp draw (using mine as an example) 4.000 x 25 = 100 you need to put a decimal point after the first number of you batteries capacity. 4.0 x 25 = 100 if your esc current drain is greater than what your lipo battery can give you are risking a big 'BANG' as long as you follow this simple formula then all will be ok, for those of you out there that are going to say well mine is fine! well its on your head then think of a lipo battery as a bag (cos it is) when it charges it swells, when it discharges it contracts. ESC's with lipo cut off as you know detects the batteries low voltage point. If the battery is taken past its low voltage point it can be damaged, charge it back up again and after a couple of cycles 'BANG' by using an esc that has a higher current drain than your lipo can give this then in effect is taking too much out of the lipo during its 'burst' (the point when you ask for full power) anyway I hope this all helps and settles a few minds. thanks guys, enjoy.
  22. wolfdogstinkus

    My introduction to lipo

    I recently decided to make the move to lipo, without knowing much about what I was doing, I rushed out (onto ebay) and bought two lipo's and a charger. The charger never arrived ( had to open case on ebay) so I ordered another charger from modelsport uk yesterday and it arrived today. The charger is an Orion advantage IQ404 which charges at 5A on 2s and 3.3A on 3s. I also have a Lipo safe charge bag. The lipos were a bit bigger than a stick pack, the 2s fits in the DT-02 and the 3s is for the blitzer beetle, the 3s is a bit wider than a normal stick pack so here's what I have done,......................... I think this is a soft cell pack so I decided to pad it out with carpet underlay, is this a good idea? And made a new battery strap to hold it in, All wrapped up and strapped down. Massive improvement over my old ni-mh batteries, I was thinking that the extra 0.2V on a 2s wouldn't make any difference, but I was very wrong, I have to do some more testing but I will report back.