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Found 35 results

  1. I hope I don't sound like a complete idiot for asking this (because I'm sure the Tamiya designers/engineers put these here for a purpose), but nonetheless would it be okay if I covered up all those holes scattered around the Lunch Box (and Pumpkin) chassis? In addition to the sizeable circular hole in the bottom-middle of the chassis (which is centered directly above the battery compartment) there are about a dozen other little holes that I can't find any use for. See my attached pic where I have circled these (I'm not including the suspension holes, the on/off switch space, the servo space, or the gap for the engine wires, and I understand that at least one of these are for the antenna). I'm asking because I want to waterproof and sand-proof the chassis as much as possible as I will primarily be driving my Lunchbox at the beach and in sand dunes. As for the actual covering up, I was thinking of using a hot glue gun and/or duct tape. Other suggestions appreciated!
  2. So I'm on my first-ever Tamiya RC build (Lunch Box), and I've done all my research about how to properly primer and paint using TS spray-can paints (washing and sanding first, heating up the can, etc), and then today I begin the primer process (Tamiya-brand white fine surface primer for plastic), starting with this kit's stock deep-dish wheels...but none of the spray goes beyond the outter-most lips of the rim! Being sure to keep about 8 inches distance, and using light dusting strokes, I tried all sorts of angles (horizontal, vertical, diagonal, top-down), and some of the spray does hit the insides of the wheels for about 1-2 centimeter down, but absolutely no primer is hitting the very backs of the wheels' interior (where the holes are). It seems that the only way I could possibly get spray primer/paint in that deep is to hold the can's nozzle directly inside the wheel and blast it - which of course would cause it to become very thick and muck up. I've read that dye is an option (but since these wheels come yellow, and I want to color them TS-22 light-green, it might not work well), or I guess I could paint by hand with a brush. But I'd really love to hear and learn from anyone who has successfully spray-painted (airbrush not an option) their Lunchy wheels (or Midnight Pumpkin, since they seem to be the exact same wheels). PHOTOS ATTACHED Thanks!!! (I'm new here, please be gentle ;)
  3. I have no idea in which subforum to put it really, but here goes ... Rambling background (skip to question if being impatient): I happened upon the @JennyMo "Short Willy" thread -> https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/81529-who-has-a-short-willy-mf-01x-wild-willy-2/ Of course, I couldn't let go of the "Let's build something" mood and started snooping around in the Showroom section, stumbled upon @tamiyamc and his Shortened Lunch Box -> https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=18355&id=1152 Then I realized that @Willy iine has some Willys too, so I checked the photos on his profile and now I fell off the chair - the shortened Beetle! So, well, when I am going down this route, I think a first step would be a shortie Pumpkin, since the Beetle might be a bit too hard as a first try with all the curves. Questions: Any pointers, tips, ideas on how do a a shortened Pumpkin on the WR-02 chassis? Or is just hacksaw, glue and "hey, ho, let's go"?
  4. Dear all, Just finally bought a Metallic edition Midnight Pumpkin 1/12 and is on the way here. Bought a set of Yeah Racing ptfe ball bearings too. Have tried searching for advice here and elsewhere but as this is my 1st CW-01 (i do have a couple of tt02 and tt02b) i am quite overwhelmed by the amount of new information to digest. I have read that they are weak points in this chassis and certain upgrades or mods are used. Question: 1. What servo type should i be using? I have a currently 9kg servo but i did read somewhere that a strong servo can cause breakages. 2. Silver can or torque tuned motor since i have both? 3. ESC - quicrun 1060 or tble02 or tble04 or others? 4. What are the recommended upgrades or mods? I have no 3D printer so any diy options are highly preferable. 5. Shock advice? Clueless on this. Can the exisitng tt02 and tt02b oil shocks be used? Thamk you all in advance for your help!
  5. Shhhh! Be still. Close your eyes, slow your breathing and cast your collective memories back to those heady days when the young(er) youse (Scottish plural for ‘you’…look it up) were building your first Tamiyas. Remember the excitement of opening that box for the first time and the eager anticipation you felt as your car slowly materialised out of the morass of plastic, metal and electronics? And as you throttled-on for the first time, perhaps in the street outside your parents’ house, experiencing the contentedness of knowing that you had built the masterpiece in front of you? Do you remember? Excellent wasn’t it! Now, open your eyes again before you fall asleep. Well, what follows is my homage to those moments; a celebration of the simpler times by building a simple, honest, grin inducing, rough-around-the-edges but loveable machine. My first Tamiya was a Mud Blaster, so it seems natural to return to the off-road for this build. An ORV would be an obvious choice of course, but perhaps too obvious. If we’re talking about a non-ORV off-road truck then there is only one contender in my mind… one which I so very badly wanted when I was a youngster. Ladies and gentlemen: I present my Midnight Pumpkin build. Courtesy of a generous birthday present from Mr and Mrs Middleagedgrup senior, I just happen to have a nice black edition sitting in my pile of shame waiting to be built. To it, I shall be adding: Tamiya torque tuned motor; GPM Aluminium Hi-torque Servo Saver 25T With Aluminium Tie Rod (GPM LB025TM); GPM Aluminium Front Knuckle Arm (GPM LB021); full bearings; 3D printed rear axle brace; Tamiya CVA Short Shock Set II (50520) x2; and a homemade front shock tower brace. Compared to some of the other mind-boggling and hugely impressive builds on here, the simplicity of what follows will hardly set the world alight, but that’s kind of the point. And if my little bit of mindfulness above has managed to spread a bit of joy to you, dear reader, then I guess that alone justifies this build!
  6. Hi. Newbie here probably doing something stupid but need a little advice. I have 2 midnight pumpkins, the first I built last year (lockdown project) and can 100% stock with 5kg steering servo and standard servo saver as supplied in the kit. This model has been great fun on rough ground, tarmac and even drifting on gravel. the steering servo is great smooth, quiet with no electrical chatter at all. No issues with this pumpkin apart from the body mounts. I have just built one for a friend and this pumpkin came with a 15kg metal geared steering servo in the box. After around 2 minutes of running on a smooth concrete surface I lost all steering. When applying the brakes at speed these pumpkins always do a bit of a handbrake turn which will obviously put some strain on the servo but this has never been a problem on my original pumpkin. I popped the body off and the steering mounts have both cracked leaving the steering servo flopping around. This is the second time this has happened and I have replaced the chassis already when the previous one broken. No idea what's gone wrong here. Is the steering servo too powerful or has the servo saver failed? Should I be using the Tamiya high torque 51000 servo saver or should I pick up a 5kg servo despite and remove the 15kg supplied with the kit? I checked the chassis during assembly and it was solid with no cracks. Any help much appreciated. I've loved my own pumpkin but feeling bad for a friend who's pumpkin is sat their looking sorry for itself. Annoying thing about the chassis being wrecked is you have to virtually rebuild from scratch! Any help much appreciated!
  7. Hi guys, first time posting here…please be gentle! I have a midnight pumpkin from around 1991, it’s been in the loft for the guts of 30 years it was a ready built one not the kit . I’ve taken it out and I’d like to go about restoring it, I just have no idea where to start. It had a steering problem when it was put away, if I remember correctly the wheels weren’t returning to centre. I’m also in need of tyres, a remote and a battery cover. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tim
  8. No, this isn't a thread about a particularly strong vindaloo..... I've decided spend a bit less time on this hobby, and so am downsizing the amount of stuff I have. I'm starting off with spare parts, but later on I'm going to have some vehicles for sale as well (Maybe a Konghead, a Chrome Edition Midnight Pumpkin and a Jagdpanther). However, i can only photograph and advertise a certain amount in one go, so here we go: Quick list of Contents as the thread is getting long and is pic heavy 1.Boomerang D parts 2. yellow Kyosho rims 3. Boomerang blue bits 4. vanquish wheels (original - used) 7. re-re sand rover left over body parts 8. TT-01 gears. Some used and only lightly used, some new (Originally bought for an 8x8 project) 9. DF-02 axles (used) 10. King tiger turret rotation unit 11. TT-01 / DF-02 one way unit used spares (Outdrives, bearings, and ring gear) 12. Hotshot II underguard Partially complete Boomerang D parts. Vintage kyosho wheels, but no idea what they're off. Bigger than hotshot series wheels so maybe 2.2" ? Boomerang / Bigwig blue spares (Some new, some used, will split if required.) Super Sabre unique spares (New) (Now sold) Avante 2011 Hop up wheels (Vanquish clones, but nice and white) (Now sold) vanquish wheels, pretty certain they are genuine vintage due to the slight discoloration, 2 matched pairs of front wheels, and 1 pair of rear wheels with some really old, hard oval blocks. The rear wheels appear to be both lefts (or rights), not a matched pair. Will split up if required. And lastly, (Till I get into the next box of parts), a home made by me (Still machined aluminium though) adapter plate for fitting a Hotshot gearbox to a hornet / grasshopper chassis. Alloy blocks fit in where the hornet gearbox mounts fit, and the fibreglass plate screws to the mount for the hotshot battery plate. The gearbox still requires attachment to the top of the chassis but it can be fairly easily. I've not put prices on any of it, let me know what they're worth to you, payment via paypal please. Once I get payment I will post items via Royal Mail signed for, as a minimum.
  9. I was looking at the original MP decal sheet and I noticed that it used to come with an alternate set of door decals, and as soon as I saw it the fog faded and I can recall seeing that design on some classic Pumpkins back in the day, in fact I think one of the catalogs might have had a picture with the alternate door sticker? Could have been a Beatties catalog... The original Midnight Pumpkin box art has the normal oval decal on the doors, which sadly is the only one that comes with the rere now, so I was wondering was the alternate door decal ever shown on the box art, perhaps on some early versions? I much prefer the alternate decal to the oval, and it got me wondering about it
  10. Has anyone out there tried any of the rcdamper parts as seen on eBay on their pumpkin or lunchbox and if so do you have any advice on what’s good and what isn’t? Pics would help as well. Some of what I’m checking out as follows: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383513991045 https://www.ebay.com/itm/383299089658 https://www.ebay.com/itm/183823103772 https://www.ebay.com/itm/184068277894 https://www.ebay.com/itm/383299094371 https://www.ebay.com/itm/184108702857
  11. I was curious if anyone knows of any alternate bodies, lexan or hard plastic, that could fit the midnight pumpkin/lunchbox chassis. I’d love to find a ‘57 Chevy bel air body and make it a monster hot rod. Might be a dream but dreams can come true.
  12. I’ve finally got my pumpkin running after 25 years or so. Fun as I remember. I did find, however, in getting it up to running condition, some of the current setup isn’t what is shown in the instruction manual. I did not assemble my pumpkin as I bought it used from another enthusiast. I was wondering if any of you have seen a setup such as this (suspension) and also if there are any recommendations on ways o improve the ride and speed. Everything (as far as I know) is stock. I do have one other issue. Even when adjusting my controller, the pumpkin still pulls one way or the other. In examining the steering, the servo appears to be at middle. The tie rods are of different length but again, there is pull to one side or the other. Suggestions here would be welcome as well.
  13. I have been searching YouTube and have been unable to find any how to vids on how to swap a manual speed control to an electronic speed control. Any help would be appreciated.
  14. While I was searching for spare parts for my Midnight Pumpkin, I came across machined aluminum hubs for the rear tires. I was curious if anyone out there has used them and what their thoughts are on them. I was of the mindset that they will last longer than the plastic ones but also was thinking that friction can cause them to possibly heat up more and damage other non aluminum parts. Chime in with thoughts or experience. Here is the actual part if I wasn’t clear enough. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Lunchbox-Midnight-Pumpkin-CNC-Machined-Alloy-Wheel-Hubs/264516859440?hash=item3d966ef630:g:CW4AAOSwwBRewnmd
  15. Hey all, just wanted to share how I fixed the camber on the cw01 with not much effort and $ I used the plastic tubing (any kind of plastic tube or spacer) inside the shock body method, in order to limit the shock extension. It's a short piece of plastic that goes inside the shock body before the piston, then you put everything back together. Simple as that Nothing can be seen from the outside, and can be done with any oil shock. jm2c
  16. The question is: what models share the same chassis at the Lunchbox and Midnight Pumpkin? I think the Montero(?) does, but is there anything else? Also the chrome Midnight Pumpkin, what's the best way to protect the finish? Has anyone ever spray lacquered it? The reason I ask, I am slowly pulling out my rc stuff that I have collected over the last 10 years or so and trying to organise it. Today's job was to sort my Lunchbox and Hornet parts, which I'd kinda lumped together as they share some of the same parts. So this is what I have: There is one complete Grasshopper A damage Grasshopper body which I will attempt to repair, and plus I have the parts for a rolling chassis. There are 2 complete Hornets (1 original and one Re Re) and enough parts to make 1 more complete car and 1 to just make a complete chassis which I might revert one back to a Sand Scorcher body onto the hornet chassis. The chassis has been modified anyway. 2 complete lunchbox chassis, one will be for a chrome Midnight Pumpkin body I got for Christmas, I think around 2012. And over the years I collected bits and pieces to make a chassis to go with it, and pretty much ended with this 1 lunchbox chassis which I think I can make from the leftover hornet parts. So that means I have two lunchbox rolling chassis that will need bodies for. I'm hoping for something different, so send me you suggestions! Now for the pics, these are all the parts I got together. Midnight Pumpkin body, I want to build and drive but I don't want to scratch it Any suggestion on maybe protecting it with a spray lacquer or other ideas? And since I'll have plenty of time, I might as well have a go at fixing this. Once I weld what is there back together, its only one rear corner that is missing.
  17. I am looking to build a midnight pumpkin but need some advice on which motor to use (preferably super stock), servos and esc. Also I will be looking to upgrade the stocks. Any other tips or suggested upgrades would be appreciated! Maximum spend (excluding the car itself) £200 Thanks, Ashicar
  18. Hey folks, I have been doing some work on my CW01's lately, trying to ignore my hatred of Project Hor-Cha-Hop. I made some Midnight Pumpkin body mounts and a brace for the transmission to stop the irritating slap of the trans under torquing. My current design has to do with my double wishbone front end upgrade on the Hornet. I am working on an updated version akin to a Grasshopper II where the shock is sunk deep into the arm. This will allow you to use a 50mm touring car shock. However, this "sunken" shock mount setup will not work on a CW01, nor will it work if you want to keep the friction shocks on a Hornet/Hopper. So I made one that leverages the Tamiya steel spring mount. Tested on the Hornet and it is perfect. I installed in on the CW01 and there was an unexpected change; wheel track. The front of the CW01 is now 15-20mm wider than stock. Now this is very desirable if you want to run and jump the CW01's hard, it makes them much more stable. If I shorten the arm by 10mm, it will do a few bad things. 1. The upright will come closer to the shock mount and hit the shock. This will require moving the shock more inboard. 2. The shock needs to move inboard. Ignoring the above issue, narrowing the track will result in forcing the shock to move proportionally to the shortening. this now reduces the lever arm on the suspension arm reducing travel of the shock (not the wheel) and also inadvertantly raising the front end. I think I am correct in beleiving that widening the front end is a better route since anyone that would install this (like me on my race truck) wants more stability. Plus, the drawbacks to narrowing the front end are seriously bad. Love to hear some input. Here is where the testing is (had to borrow SuperFly's upright): The widened track from the front From above (sorry, black floor) Also, the upper link will mount to a part that will be wedged by the servo with no screws. This means that this mod will require zero holes or alterations to your CW01. I hate drilling and cutting on stuff I paid for. The MP Mounts are working great on a side note. I change the direction of the pin holes on t he front mounts and made a nice base for the rear body to sit on. Fits perfect on stock body with no mods needed. The trans brace has made the trucks so much less annoying too. Simple little part and easy to install. 2 holes, sorry. There are also Wheelie bar wheels and Lunchbox body mounts that come in all the shapeways colors. I think that's all for now. All that stuff is in the store under CW01 or MP/LB depending on how specific it is. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/ampro
  19. As the title suggests what lexen bodies have you fitted or seen fitted to your wheelie truck? Any pics? interested in all ideas not just truck bodies.
  20. Anybody got a midnight pumpkin empty body set box they want to sell? let me know if you have one. cheers
  21. Does anyone have a set of Rear Hubs and Drive adaptors (dont need the tires or the fronts) that is surplus to requirements that they can sell to me at a bad price please?
  22. Hi there, My RC history in short:- I got a second hand Boomerang as a teenager for a Birthday present, Then got a Thunderhot, heavily modded it and still have it along with a Midnight Pumpkin (boxes for both) again modded. Then got a Traxxass T Max(still have box) but was never great with the nitro mix and found it a pain to get running correctly. Still have it as well....Then in my mid 20's started racing Mini Z F1's then Mini Z touring cars. Got into trikes and never looked back till this week....now in my 40's and two boys are looking at my RC cars and started playing with mini Z kits..... I know the Tamiya kits are WAY more fun so went on Gumtree and bought a decent looking used Neo Scorcher, ordered 2 new batteries and ballrace set.....here we go again I think. Photo attached I hope. QUESTIONS:- 1-Does the Neo Scorcher (TT-02B) model have any notable weaknesses I should know about? The motor has been uprated and from state of tires its not been used much. It also has the wheel transmitter I have preference for after my Mini Z years. The original motor and case are included as is the charger you see below. His batteries are shot so need to get some. All for under £100. I have ordered a ballrace set already which when I fit will at least give me a chance to strip and get inside the kit to see what has changed in nearly 20 years! Hope he still has the instructions, I did check and he does not have the box. Collect in a few days. 2-Are the Pumpkin & Thundershot boxes and instructions of any value? The cars are WELL USED with a few of my own mods (larger heavier duty bumpers to name but one) so will, unless someone REALLY wants them, keep them for the boys. Can add photos if anyone is interested. 3-or the Traxxas T Max (its complete with Box, instructions, radio gear, EZ start and a few spares as well as some mods BUT as mentioned above never had it run for long as was poor with the Nitro mix, so its been run in about.......15 years I reckon) 4-To get the Thundershot up and running I need to get the little steel pins that go through the stub axle to drive the triangle wheel carriers and also 4 new wheel carriers. Anyone any links for these please? I know I have them but cant lay hands on them after nearly 20 years. 5-Whats the sensible value/choice for RC 7.2V batteries these days, was 1700 Red packs over yellow in My day, just ordered 3300NiMh so hope I got that reasonably right?
  23. here are my two old bashers. They have been sat for over 15 years in garage roofspace. Going to revive for my sons (and me of course) I have also just bought a running Neo Scorcher. Pics are as I found em with no cleaning. Thundershot has my own front twin shock conversion and a second bumper of I think a Pumpkin, its ballraced and the tires are totally shot, one is degraded completly. Pumpkin has movable body mounts as I have an old tatty Blackfoot original shell that I also use. The motor is a 550 (not sure of history of this or where i got it but its in there and its a nutter wheelie machine. Bought just as who is not a fan of pulling wheelies? Also ballraced.
  24. Anyone know if there's a metal gear kit available for the Midnight Pumpkin? I'm thinking in terms of durability/longevity. Mine is pretty much stock except for bearings and Sport Tuned motor... and headlights : )
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