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Found 24 results

  1. Hi all, A long introduction here so bear with me. Back in 2015 I purchased a 1/8 Mugen Super Sport Nitro Buggy to restore. I knew nothing about the brand at that time but it was cheap and it was nitro. The car looked like this when I first got it. They always make me shudder a bit when I first see them but I have some practice now at restoring things! Over a period of about 3 years I started to learn about the model, find parts, get instructions and restore the car. Parts are very hard to find and lots of bits had to be restored. I got lucky in finding a new clear bodyshell and pressed on with the restoration. Today the car looks like this: Loads of work, quite a lot of money and lots of searching for parts. Today the story changes a bit. I was aware that in 1990 Mugen won the IFMAR World Championship with Koji Sanada and Takashi Aizawa running a Mugen Super Sport. The idea came to me that I could build a replica of the winning car driven by Koji Sanada. A few pictures from the event in Thailand, first the winners podium and then the Mugen press photo with the cars that was done after the race. Koji Sanada's car is the one with the red nose and in the press photo wears number 7. There aren't many pictures of the cars (maybe 10) from the time and they used differeing numbers every race however it was this car I set out to replicate. Now, not many pictures means not much info so I set about asking Mugen for information. Why, well because Koji Sanada is the CEO of Mugen today. I actually got a reply and found out more info on the cars spec. They don't exist anymore but some important info on engine type etc was forthcoming. I already had the body so once again the excellent @jonboy1 has painted it ready. We deliberated for ages on the colour as the press photos and pictures from 1990 all look different. In the end we settled on Tamiya French Blue and I think it came out great. The spoiler actually isn't a Mugen part but a Kyosho Burns spoiler. Its the closest I can find and at a casual glance you will probably never notice. Once mounted and stickered it will be fine. I have the basic chassis but was missing some parts like the EFRA Exhaust, fuel filter, RX cover, black chassis plate (I didn't want to paint my nice alloy one) etc. Quite by chance a parts car appeared in Japan so I snapped it up. It will provide everything else I need. This car had all the bits I needed. Having confirmed with Sanada-san that the original engine was a Novarossi Nova 2000 fitted with a Mugen heatsink head I set about getting one and quickly found the bits I need. That restoration will be here soon. Lots more to come as the car comes together. I think I now have everything I need apart from a good decal set (anybody help make some for me?) the OS air filter and a few small bits. Just need to get the work done now. The plan will be to build up the parts car again and sell it off using a combination of the two cars parts so I plan to document both chassis builds here. Thanks for looking, stay tuned.
  2. Hi all, My next documented restoration thread takes me away from Tamiya. As you all probably know I mainly collect Tamiya nitro however now and again I tend to drift towards other makes. In this instance Kyosho. The Turbo Burns came to me from Ebay UK. I paid £46 for it delivered in this condition: Obviously missing a body, it has the wrong wing (its not an Inferno either) and covered in muck. First thing I have done with it is to jetwash the whole thing. Now that seems harsh but in actual fact it will be fully stripped, the RC gear will be scrapped anyway and the motor will be fully serviced. Other than that there is nothing that will get damaged. So jet wash done I am left with this to look over: She is complete all bar the body, wing and air filter pretty much. Bodies are available as repro items along with the wing and decal set and the filter I think I already have. Wheels and tyres will be a challenge but we will see what happens. The car is fitted with a nice period Mondial motor and I will try and restore that. It isn't seized so that's a good start. Some of the metal components are showing signs of rust and that awful jubilee clip exhaust tube will be going. It has some nice aftermarket shocks fitted, hopefully these will clean up well. The rear arm threaded bars I already have new. Chassis plate has a few marks but confident these should sand/polish out. I may replace it if I find a new one because I'm not a fan of extra drilled holes and this has a couple. All in all though a good starting basis. More to follow soon when I strip her down.
  3. Higrades

    ANY IDEAS?

    Optima Mid survived 30+ years. What are my options?
  4. The Kyosho Icarus is a 2WD entry-level RC car from the year 1985/1986. It has the same chassis as the Pegasus, Cosmo and Cox Bandido. The original motor is the 360ST, size 550, 22 turns - 22,000 rpm and it has independent suspension on four wheels with oil dampers. This buggy is the version that Graupner distributed in Germany. I bought it disassembled and there were parts that were not from this car: I have the original rims and the new front tires; I don't have the rear tires. There were other front rims and rear rims on the Tamiya Hornet. The chassis was strongly marked by scratches on the bottom but no broken parts. The shock absorbers were new as if they had changed. The most important thing was to have all the transmission parts because they are expensive, hard to find and there are no alternatives. I disassemble the gearbox because there is a strange noise. The gearbox is fine and had a loose bushing. It is cleaned and oiled. The motor pinion has 18 teeth and a 0.8M module. The gearbox has a ratio 18/52 * 18/52 ---> 8.35: 1 The wheel axle is worn in the rolling area. This also occurs in the Cosmo and the Pegasus. TThe previous owner did not do the maintenance and there was no grease in the bushings. It is better to use 10x6 mm flanged ball bearings A new wheel axle is quite expensive and difficult to obtain; I placed a needle roller bearing 10x6 mm and 10 mm wide. The transmission parts have strange measures and shapes and are not compatible with other spare parts: The LeMans 360ST motor has interchangeable brushes but cannot be opened. I put the very fine sandpaper in a screwdriver and put it in the hole of the brushes to polish the collector. I use a drill to turn the rotor. Video: https://youtu.be/sMPhT_h9Wl8 Complete transmission test and measure the motor speed (sound level meter): https://youtu.be/LEozlwM9lzs The chassis is clean and the transmission mounted. The battery is placed by opening a cover under the car The double wishbone front suspension is made up of flexible plastic arms: there is no axle. Suspension clearance is repaired with an o-ring. I made two polyethylene holders for the servo. I did not have the original holders. I have new chrome rims and a rear wheel adapter; I also have new front tires. I mount 4x8x3 bearings in the front wheels. The rear rims are 1.55" size and I can choose between the Tamiya Hornet or Marui tires that I have. I paint the white letters on the tires. I also mounted the ESC and the receiver in the car. The Icarus buggy looks like this: In action (video): https://youtu.be/PN9w7e1kkTs Translated from: https://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2020/03/restauracion-reparacion-de-kyosho-icarus.html (sorry for the translation errors)
  5. So as ever I usually have around 8 or 9 projects on the go. As the David Jun TNX and the Kyosho Turbo Burns near completion I have been wondering which kits to do next. I picked this up from Japan recently and thought it would be good to do next. The Pajero along with the Citroen ZX is one of the rarer nitro cars from this family. Most people would of heard about the RS200 and the Peugeot 405. I have an RS200 to restore and I have already done the 405. The Citroen ZX body I have just needs a chassis. So the Pajero has a badly cracked body, to bad for me to want to use it so I have used some body tape to hold it together and it will get sold off. The Pajero does look good though The chassis is pretty much complete but needs some love Having looked it over there are a few plastic parts missing and I have already ordered them, mainly some mounts, the aerial holder etc. The parts aren't too rusty and I am hoping I can recover the tyres and wheels with some care. A few plastic parts are bent (body mounts) but they should straighten up. Most parts from these chassis are still available in the Kyosho FD- range. I already have a new body so that will be painted for this restoration by @jonboy1 The engine on this is the Kyosho GS-11R and it is seized solid. Its also missing the carb but that was easy enough to find. The rest of the engine restoration will be documented. Next steps will be to strip the car down, time to get dirty again!
  6. Hi all, a long-awaited dream has come true. Finally I have the opportunity to restore a Wild Willy M38, which I found on the bay. The base is in relative good condition, but it definitely needs a good cleaning. Hence I would also like to disassemble the gear box. Can someone please give me a good advice on how to take the spring splints out of the hex wheel hub. I have no clue how to and in order to avoid damage I’d need some instruction. Thanks a lot !
  7. Hi, I own an old Vanquish I plan to restore. Unfortunately I have some problems with the front tower - the holes in the chassis to fix that are broken. Any advise on what to do? Thanks a lot
  8. I picked up this Bear Hawk chassis today. Looks like it has had a hard life but under all that dirt and grime it's not too bad. It will get a full strip, thorough clean and a fine tooth comb inspection. If parts are ok and not cracked or threads not striped then they will stay, but it does have a broken nose so those parts will be replaced and the usual strengthening braces will be added. A new body set and wheels & tyres are already on the way with a new set of shocks at the top of the list of things to get. Not sure what the body and wing is from and I don't care either as they are not staying. It's not a restoration project, as it's not getting rebuilt to box stock, it's a rebuild project I looking forward to sinking my teeth into.
  9. I've owned this Super Astute since I was 13. It was given to me for Christmas in 1992, and was my first 'race grade' RC car, following on from a Madcap. It's been in bits in various boxes since the mid 90s, and other than a previous failed attempt to race it back in 2002 - the gears couldn't handle a reasonably powerful brushed motor - it's sat idle for all this time. Back in 2009 I bought a Kamtec repro shell which I never took out of the packaging... I'll be prepping that later this week Now I have more money than sense, I've decided I'll have a crack at getting it back up and running. Not just for street bashing, but for 'serious' vintage racing. To this end, I intend to fit the 3d printed parts from ORB racing (on their way to me as I type ), the full suite of Fibre-Lyte carbon fibre parts, Egress / Avante hi-caps that I found on the japanese auction site for 30 quid, and I'm also considering either the A&L lethal weapon transmission, or reverse engineering the existing gear set & having them 3d printed in super-strong plastic. Electrics wise, I think a 17.5 in either blinky or boosted would probably be enough, unless I upgrade the transmission. I'm also opting for a super shorty lipo pack & plan to design my own battery holder or adapt the existing one so I can mount the ESC and reciever in line behind the pack, keeping everything neat and compact. Unfortunately the diff 'holder' or access hatch is cracked around the counter sinks. I might have to re-design that part too. I'd be grateful for suggestions on turnbuckle options. The originals were always slop-tastic & I partly swapped it out for schumacher CAT turnbuckles and rod ends. The madcap kick up plate is pictured. I do have madcap uprights I could swap the original parts for, to get rid of the ridiculous bushings. Annoyingly I'm missing one hinge pin from the front inboard wishbone mountings, and I'm having to use the madcap pin-screws to keep the wishbones attached. Sorting through the bits: The piece that failed last time out - a definite weak link: Stripping the superglue (what was I thinking?!) from the spur gear / slipper plate): gearbox back on: lots of work to do still: I'll be replacing all the original screws with hex hardware: I've already emailed a 3d printing firm regarding the gear set. I intend to get the main shaft reduction gear, hex 'washer' plate, idler gear and diff casing re-engineered in modern high strength plastic.
  10. So I have been restoring my 30 year old fox these last few months (new chasis, ESC, wheels, tires, a couple of suspension arms) and I finally thought I got it going. I have a 30 year old brushed Le Mans 240st (nothing fancy) and today when I took it out for a run it sounded like the gears were stripping. Sounded like someone driving a bad stick shift. How do I know if it’s the gears or drive shaft? When I turn the rear wheel there is about a 45 degree slack before the other wheel kicks in and turns the opposite way. Just bumped about the new issue!!
  11. Hello While moving piles of modelkits from the attic to my new 'mancave' I dug up my old Tamiya Fox. I bought it om my 12th birthday (1988) and it was my first and only RC car. It seemed in good shape, the radio still works even after a drop from the first floor (they did make things of quality these days did'nt they?). So i decided to buy new battery (Lipo? Nimh? whaaw things have changed since then) and it ran as 30 years ago. Time to take it apart and see in what shape it really is. The inside looks clean. The MSC needed lubrification badly The dogbones needed claening (dust) and grease Aaawch. Splits in the rear upper and lower arms Time to order Novafox parts and take a break
  12. Hi, Just got my hands on my Blazing Blazer (pics below) from when I was a kid. It hasn't been used in 20+ years where it's been sat in my parents garage. Needs some TLC and I haven't yet attempted to get it running. I also have the original manual. How much do people think it would be worth?, as it's not something I'm really into? Thanks
  13. 1987 was a landmark year for Cats. While Schumacher's Cat XLS was winning the IFMAR 4WD OR title, Traxxas was launching the first hobby grade RTR in the form of the Tom Cat, or just simply the Cat. It is a car heavily influenced by Tamiya - a Grasshopper style chassis & trailing transmission, a body shell reminiscent of the Fox and Yellow CVA style dampers, albeit with a unique way of adjusting spring rates. Inspired by an article on URC, I plan to restore and gently modify this car to race at next years Iconic Revival - 30 years after the Cat was released. This is what I purchased on eBay recently vs. what I would like to create...
  14. ** If you wish to see the photos in one place, here is a link to the album on Imgur - http://imgur.com/a/fNZKP ** Originally, I wasn't going to post this restoration/refurb on here, but I eventually decided otherwise. Basically, I purchased a 1980s (1987 I think) Hornet from a seller on eBay, as a partial restoration project the guy never finished. I've been on the hunt for a Hornet restoration project for some time, and this one was just right, The seller had already replaced the chassis, gearbox, wheels, tyres and servos with new ones. This was a shame in a way, as it meant I had less work to do, but on the flip side, it probably helped my wallet as well. He also included a brand new, un-painted body. The current body, which I've recently removed all the stickers, wasn't in a bad condition. Just a few cracks here and there, and a lot of paint chipping off. Once the Hornet has been restored, I'll have a go at saving the old body, if I can. Anyway, the car needed an speed controller to replace the mechanical one, a new receiver and a motor. Thankfully, I have a spare 17x2 motor I can use, and have recently purchased a new speed controller and receiver, which should be here soon. I've also purchased the paint for the body. Above photos show the chassis and the original bodyshell. Hopefully I can save that shell with a nice coat of paint on the inside and the outside. The spoiler couldn't be saved, but I have an idea how to obtain a new one. As mentioned, the old mechanical speed controller will get replaced with a new one. Once the new items arrive (hopefully by Monday) I'll upload some new photos, before starting the re-build and painting the new shell. And these one show the new shell, ready for painting. I wanted to paint it Metallic Red, but the site I usually get my paints from had none in stock. I tried to get all the parts in one place, but that failed. So I opted for a different colour. You'll see once I upload the photo. I'm sure this restoration.... I use the term loosely... won't be all that exciting, as most of the work was already done. So it'll most likely be a short one. Anyway... feel free to follow the build... or don't, I won't blame you
  15. Hi all. I've picked up a vintage Blackfoot from ebay. It's in pretty good condition for a 30 year old model but far from perfect. I'm going to strip it down and give it a good clean and replace any damaged parts. It'll probably be on my shelf most of the time with the occasional drive. I've already bought a few things which I knew were missing. Firstly I bought a chrome grill which is from the blackfoot III. This will do until/if an original comes along. Secondly the spot lights were missing so I ordered a set of these too. After a brief look at the truck I'll need the small front mount that goes into the bonnet of the shell which has snapped off and the strut brace that goes between the 2 mounts for the rear of the shell has split. Also I popped off the rear wheel to see if it was ballraced but when I did the plastic hub fell in half so I'll probably be after a pair of those too! (It's not ballraced ). The parts list is starting to build up!! Oh and I'm after a driver too. The electrics have been changed to an Msonic 4 RV 15 speed controller (doesn't mean anything to me, good/bad?) and a Vision modified 23x1 motor. On the speed controller is a SET button? Are these items worth keeping? It looks like they have put some plastic at the other side of the motor which has been cut to to size so I'd like to replace this with a proper motor mount (if that's what it's called). The power switch is on the chassis but all the wires have been cut. It's got an old 27mhz 2 channel receiver and lastly an acoms IC servo AS-12. The shell is solid with no cracks or missing pieces and it has the original stickers which some have started to lift slightly at the edges. I'd ideally like to paint the shell a gloss black and put the new decal set on but is this a no no with a 30 year old vintage tamiya with an original decal set!? If I do paint the shell there are some little nicks which I'd like to fill with some kind of plastic modelling putty so it's all straight as it should be. Any recommendations? Wheels and tyres are near perfect. I'm really new to all this so any recommedations about how to do things, where to get stuff and source items, upgrade etc is more than welcome. Oh feel free to post your pics too, I'd love to see some other original blackfoot and what you've done to it etc. Current shopping list : Driver ✔ Hubs for rear wheels x2 Motor mount front mount for shell ✔ Strut for rear shell mount points Chrome grill - original blackfoot Tamiya paint - black Ballrace kit 2.4ghz radio gear (any suggestions?) May be a flysky FS-GT3C or b (I do like the old stick controllers though ) Esc if I replace (suggestions?) Motor Tamiya torque tuned Some large capacity NiMH batteries Rear axles (black plastic parts which connect the rear suspension to the wheels) Servo cover for chassis Already bought : Blackfoot III chrome front and rear bumpers ✔ Spot lights ✔ Decal set ✔ Dual charger from modelsport ✔ Here's some pics : Pics bigger now. Thanks matman.
  16. Hi All, I have 3 Vintage Tamiya RC Models that I'm going to try and fully restore. This has a lovely back story and I got this when I was either 6 or 7 years old. 20 Years later I want to restore it to it's former glory. It was probably 10 years old when I got it so was already in poor condition and the shell was already broken. I'll let the pictures speak for me. I'm going to need advice on the best way of restoring something like this... Here she is, the green paint on the side was the original colour when I got it, was green with bumpy bits of light green...over the following few years and with a young and innocent mind I painted over bits that flaked off etc... As you can see from this shot, the body is completely shot. One thing to note though, I was always told it was a Grasshopper but isn't that shell a Hornet shell? This brings me onto my first dilemma. I know this car and what it looks like and to ME it's a Grasshopper with that shell, I only discovered it was a hornet shell when looking into it. 1.) Would you replace the shell with a hornet one to preserve the childhood memory or 2.) Be a strict original resto and put a Grasshopper body on it? (and perhaps paint it the green it was?) I'm assuming this IS even a Grasshopper and not a Hornet...I had a look at pictures and by looking at the circular part where the back assembly goes in, this is a Grasshopper, perhaps one of you could clarify for me? When this was last used, I was still young and there were just no spare parts around, well before the re-release. Either the plastic gear or metal pinion had worn down so much they didn't make contact with one another, so I wedged this in to create an angle so they would contact and work...(Also notice the sharp self tapping screws for the shocks!!) Seems to be some servere twisting going on at the back there?: This chassis is shot to pieces, It's been glued, bits missing, I even electrical taped over cracks and pieces to keep it together at the front..this is in such a poor state A spring went missing somehow, I cannot recall but this is how in my pre-teen years I solved that problem.. The hornet body again, shot to pieces. The supports on the chassis are gone to even hold it down, the wing just comes off and it's cracked in numerous places... What would you guys do in this situation? All of my cars were working things for me to use and have fun with. I want this one, out of all of them to be able to be used now and again just for memories sake but I do want this to be fully restored. Should I just buy NEW Re-release parts or should I do all I can to source Vintage parts for it? And the body thing, shall I get a re-release body as I'm assuming this is all far too gone, and then...the dilemma about what body to put on it. The servos work fine, that motor works fine and the gearbox works but I have that issue with the gears/pinion, The speed controller and resistor is in a Wild Dagger at the moment (which is going to be another thread as soon as I finish posting this one) which will go back in this as it's the original for the car. Any thoughts, ideas are very very welcome! Jamie
  17. Hey guys, It's been almost 10 years since I last posted here at TC. I still have my Midnight Pumpkin and she's still running strong after many years, but something happened this past weekend that was just pure, dumb luck. Walking into the Hobby Shop, I needed a new battery for the Pumpkin and some foam-safe CA for my Parkzone Mosquito. In the corner of the shop was a cardboard box with a post-it note taped to it that said "Free donation to whoever wants it". I peeked inside. Inside in pieces was a 1/12 Tamiya Martini Porsche 935 Turbo. I asked the guy at the counter "Are you serious? Nobody's wanted this thing?". He says "Well, a lady dropped it off and we have one guy who said he'd pick it up next week if no one claimed it". I jumped on it like stink on you-know-what I gasped...I couldn't believe what I was looking at. The body was in shambles, but it had a Futaba two-stick radio from 1979 as confirmed by the serial number, all servos, but no battery. I took it home and began to tear apart the body and repair it. The right A-pillar was completely destroyed, there was no glass. Nose, body, tail, doors were all broken, but it was all fixable. I plopped in eight AA batteries into the transmitter and it fired right up. Put four batteries in the BEC at the rear of the car. Turned the radio on (it powered right up) and hit the off/on switch at the rear of the car. IT'S ALIVE!!!!! Steering servo and speed controller servo both work properly! There's no power to the motor yet, since I'll have to have CheapBatteryPacks.com build me a custom pack with a male connector. The entire body has been put back together and epoxied at the seams. Right A-pillar has been rebuilt with styrene sheet, rod and strip (I'm a scale model builder so this was easy). May have to scratch build a passenger mirror and windshield wiper. The front fog light cover on the right side is cracked, no biggie, but I'll coat them in Future floorwax to really bring them back to life. In all honesty, I can't believe the front tow hook has actually survived after 30+ years. The wheels have been painted, body primed. Puttied the A-pillar and got it looking fantastic. Honestly, you can't tell it was every broken. Front wheels done in chrome with gold mesh. Doing some final sanding tonight, then shooting the first coat of color. Spent three hours last night sanding and polishing the aluminum chassis. Turned out gorgeous Also zip-tied all the wires together neatly and tucked away. Repaired the antenna wire and heat-shrank the splice. Gotta source some new decals or make my own. Also, finding glass will be impossible some I'm going to go the polycarbonate/thermoforming route. My custom battery is en route from CheapBatteryPacks.com, so she should be moving under her own power by this weekend. Super excited to get this 34-year old vintage pan car back to life and on the road! Some photos from what she looked like when I bought her home to last night. Thanks for looking guys and any advice is greatly appreciated! - Blake Sorry for the crummy iphone photos
  18. Okay so the title was a slight trick, but I thought it was grap some attention since my FTX Vantage that "was" bought as a cheap runner now contains quite a large supply of Tamiya Parts and pays homage to a Tamiya Classic. I knew when I bought the clear spare body and wing that I wanted to pay a small tribute to an old Tamiya buggy and it took me a while to source what one that was. After alot of consideration into the style and point of the buggy was along with the body style of the Vantage body, the decals had to agree with the body design IMO. So I decided on the Tamiya Astute. So over the last 3-4 months I have slowly added parts, hop-ups and many other bits and bobs to what once was a FTX Vantage to create what is shown in the photos. So far on my Vantage my current upgrades are , Carbon front and rear shock towers Carbon top plate Carbon battery plate Tamiya TRF 201 48dp spur gears (slightly modded to fit) Tamiya 48dp pinions Tamiya TL01B long rear Blue anodized driveshafts Anodized Blue top Damper holders 3 Racing D3 Sakura 4mm clamp type Blue anodized wheel hex's White anti roll bars (medium) White tuned medium springs (Medium) Tamiya Anodized Blue stabilizer ends Tamiya Anodized Blue wheel nuts Lithium medium grease in rear diff Lithium soft grease in front diff Tamiya DF03 Wheels FTX Vantage standard Tyres Clear Vantage body and wing set painted into a tribute to the Tamiya Astute Powered by old school 8.4v Nimh custom soldered battery pack, using deans battery bars and deans connectors. Speed Passion Reventon R ESC with 5.5R Motor Spektrum DX2E Radio set Hi-Tec hi speed metal geared servo and a few small bits and pieces. Coming soon is ....... Tamiya DF03 hard type turnbuckle set Red Soft Anti roll bars Tamiya K Block 62mm tyre set and possibly lipo power. So needless to say not quite the RTR Buggy it once was. I do hope you all like it as my intention was just to show my liking and my tribute to the Tamiya Astute.
  19. I have wanted a Madcap for sometime now, but never actually got round to bidding on any that seemed to appear on ebay weekly almost. So up went a wanted add in the trade section and a very lovely chap responded with pictures of what looked like an ideal candidate. A Madcap fitted with Alloy Motor Plate and CVA Shocks all round. It looked a bir rough and well used which was perfect for what I was after. We agreed a very good price and it showed up a few days later. After unboxing it all, he also threw in a spare body and a few spare parts which is always handy. A quick look round the chassis etc and it seemed in better condition than the pictures, although the body and wing were looking a wee bit sorry for themselves. Chassis underneath wasn't too badly scratched either. So here is how it turned up. Bit of cleaning needed here ! Now here is where I went sort of back to front on this project. Because I work nightshift and look after my 6 month old son during the day as the wife works. I only have a spare 30-45 minutes or so per day when he has a small nap around dinner time. So I decided to get the body looked into and also the CVA shocks. So I cleaned up the body and dried it all down, to reveal some really badly peeling decals. Overall condition of the body wasn't too bad, so I neatly trimmed up a few parts and give it a very light sanding on the inside. Since it had previously painted white using brush paints and with what looked like Tamiya acrylic brush paints too. The paint was quite solid, and since this was going to be a runner, I decided to just paint over the top using the same Tamiya acrylic brush paints. Now the cab window smoke decals were peeling very very badly, so they were removed and the residue left was removed with some white spirit and cotton buds, along with the inside edges around the window as they were quite rough. So a few minutes later and they were all tidy. Painted the inside windows with some brush on Tamiya smoke paint and also wanted to keep the original decals, so some loctite non fogging superglue and a very steady hand later and the decals were all neatly secured back down. Items started to arrive in the post for the rebuild of the chassis, diff and gearbox. Also please note the 18p toothbrushes from sainsburys (36p for 4) will come in handy for the cleaning of parts. Body isn't 100% finished yet, still some painting to do and a few tidy up bits and bobs, but overall happy with how its turned out .
  20. Hello! I'm new in this forum, I just have written to ask something about a new motor for my vintage Sand Scorcher, but I think now it's time to show you the restoration work in the Scorcher. Now the work is "finished" (it's never finished because I allways want to get new things and spare parts) so I will post here the complete work. Hope you like it! And sorry if there are some mistakes in my English because I'm Spanish and it isn't my mother language. First of all, a little of history: my father bought this car app. 30 years ago, when he was more or less the same age as me right now (20). He used the SS a lot it that time, and then he lend it to my uncle and he used even more. After some years, since I was a child, I've always seen it in a closet and I remember that we ran it two or three times in 10 years, maybe the last one 7 years ago. I've allways been interested in cars, and I collect 1:18 model cars and wanted to buy a new RC car but then I thought "why not try to fix the old one?" I didn't know the real name of the model... I started investigating and asking in another forum, contact with a guy in my city and started with it... I wanted to make it able to play and I have installed some more modern parts. So it's all, now I leave you with all the photos. This was the initial state of the SS (there was a dust layer but I cleaned it before taking photos) After that, I started dissasembling and cleaning some parts Here you can see the amount of dirt there was -------------------------------------------------------------- Dissasembling half of the back axle, some pictures to compare before/after Before: After:
  21. Hi All. After much searching and what seems never ending encounters with bidding bots on fleabay i have a Wild Willy M38. I didnt pay much in the end as its a little rougher than i had hoped to get. The chassis is good but the body is a little worse for wear. The grille is smashed as is the "passenger" side corner and wheel guard. So. Quick question. Is it worth trying to patch it up (Styrene welded in and shaped) or a new shell. I imagine i could be paying as much for a replacement shell as i did for this whole model. so whats the difference between a WW and WW2 body? I admit the thought of a WW2 body on M38 isnt thrilling me. But a broken body doesnt appeal much either Your thoughts and advice are welcome. Cheers
  22. Hi people,I finished to restore my Monster Beetle.It was in decent condition except the body that had several coats of paint. After a long restoring work here is the result. Would like to introduce you my Monster Beetle and will make a S.i.g. And here is the showroom entry: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=116053&id=24 I'm very proud of the result. CiaoMax
  23. I've never managed to follow through on a restoration thread & this one should be easy 'Famous last words' I bought this for £50 posted within the United Kingdom and still currently awaiting for it to arrive on my doorstep but I thought I'd start this off anyway as I've been getting some great advice on another thread I started for a TA01 Suspension Request. Anyway's for now here's the original photo's I got off the seller. I did ask and was advised there are no splits / cracks in the bodyshell at all. I have made two purchases in getting ready for this rebuild. Set of new rubber sealed bearings, I'm just going to replace all of them or as I expect to find them all the plastic ones. Also i saw two listing on ebay for these one at £40 & this one ( 3 More sets available ) at £9.99. Not sure if I'm going to use these yet but not sure if they are actually rare or just another seller trying to justify there £40 price tag! So the waiting game continues... Update when it arrives or when I've bought remembered something
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