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Found 36 results

  1. Like most I love the SRB and refuse to accept that it is challenged to handle well in turns or speeds. With the RChannel suspension, the handling is night and day better.. and softening the suspension helps a bunch with keeping it planted. I am able to do full speed turns with the solid axle on asphalt and it will not flip over!!! So next up was pushing for more speed. Couple of years ago, I managed to get a Novak 13.5 brushless in there, top speed was so so. A few weeks ago, I dropped in a viper 10.5. Well that pushed it to the limit, had to be gentle on throttle. Nonetheless I took the SRB to the beach along with my sons outlaw rampage. I managed 5 minutes of runs on the soft sand before it started to glitch.. sensor wires had picked up moisture, so game over for dad. So I thought, either I have to go back to a brushed motor or pick up a sealed sensorless brushless. My sons Rampage had a 13T team brood black can. It looks like a mabuchi but it’s black, has bearing and internal fan (crawler style). It has some kick. So I ordered one and dropped it in the SRB. It had decent speed but nowhere near the 13.5 brushless. So I got to thinking about gear ratios. What if I could switch to 48 p or 64 p and drop the gear ratio. Easy enough task as the SRB output shaft uses a cross pin, so just would need to fine the right bore spur holder. I had a spare XV01, so I checked that, hole was a small, would have to be drilled out. So I grabbed my phone and searched eBay for Sand Scorcher gear ratio. Low and behold there was a Thorpe spur gear older and asking price wasn’t obscene ($16).. So I picked that up. Well it arrived today so I started tinkering. I didn’t have enough 48p gear, so I switched to 64p. Pinion wise the biggest you can use is a 42t (64p) which clears the upper and lower screw holes for gear cover. Spur to match would have to be about an 84t, which I didn’t have. I did have an 88, so I used that one mated it with 36t. Mesh was perfect. FDR dropped from 6.5 for the (20/65) to 4.88! Placed gear cover back on and the gears cleared it perfectly. Took it out for a spin.. now we’re talking.. had very good speed. Drove it hard for a bit and temped the motor.. 140°F.. so not bad! Hmmm 🤔 what to do now
  2. ... or, A Tale of Two Beetles. Hi everyone, this is my first post on TC but I’ve been poking around these forums for a few years. I’m an old guy who’s been around RC for a very long time. Beginning with RC planes with my dad in early 1970's then purchase my first surface RC vehicle around '79 or '80 - a newly released Tamiya Sand Scorcher ordered from the Tower Hobbies catalog. The car was built and finished mostly box-art except that I replaced French Blue with Orange and added to the headlights tiny incandescent bulbs from the model railroad hobby. I sold that car sometime in the mid ‘80’s – wish I had taken some photos but no. So, a few months back I picked up a Blitzer Beetle and while building that car, I got the idea to recreate the Scorcher from my early days. Of course, the 2010 Sand Scorcher re-release kits are available again but this time around I want to build the car around a lighter and more modern chassis with A-arm suspension, a gear diff, etc. I want something that looks like a Scorcher but with better performance. After considering a few different chassis options, I landed on the DT-02 – or more specific, the Holiday Buggy version. If I had been aware of the differences, I’d chosen the Sand Viper version instead. For only 50 bucks more, the Viper comes with oil dampers, adjustable camber links, metal out-drives, axles and dogbones, a 540 motor, and full bearings. It also includes a lexan body and wing that likely will fit many different off-road buggies in the collection. However, completely ignorant of the differences, I went cheap and got the Holiday Buggy – well okay, so be it. So, the plan is to paint the Blitzer body similar to my old Scorcher (using TS-98 Pure Orange) and recreate the alternate livery shown in the back of the original SS manual using MCI’s reproduction decal sheets. The Blitzer chassis will be as standard – no mods. For the Scorcher, the DT-02 will receive new custom arms to permit track width and wheelbase to match the original Scorcher. The goal here is to minimize chassis mods; alter the track and wb with arms alone if possible. Of course, the body will be finished as close to box-art as possible using French Blue and MCI’s reproduction decals. I have a special modern 2.2 wheel and tire package in mind for this car that will pay homage to the vintage car (well, I think it’s special anyway). The new DT-02 arms and rear guard assembly have been printed and the initial chassis mockup is nearly finished at this point. I’m just test fitting printed parts, adjusting the "dampers" and sorting the body mounts. I’ll post more detailed info on that in the next update. We’re approaching spring and with more moderate temps and low humidity, it’s time to get those bodies prepped and painted. Both will receive some body work, two colors plus clear and polish so this will take some time. So, this will be a two-for-one build thread and I hope y’all will check back later and watch what happens.
  3. Grastens Builds the: A memorable build of great personal significance begins! Overview (aka Grastens' Understanding of the Buggy Champ and its Predecessors) The Tamiya Buggy Champ was released in 2009, as a re-issue of the original Rough Rider that first appeared in 1979. Along with the Sand Scorcher, it played a role in the popularization of off-road RC buggy racing. The chassis featured full cast-metal independent suspension, which emulated the Volkswagen Beetles that was the basis for many dune buggies of the time. As such, the performance was also quite similar to the full-size subject, which at the time represented an improvement over the current state of off-road RC buggies. The Rough Rider in particular was based on the Bob Maynard Racing Funco SSII, and was set to become a properly-licenced version of his bright-orange racer. However, the deal fell through during the prototype stage, and as a result, the name was changed to “Rob Mitchell Racing” (Tamiyabase has some more information on this for further reading). If nothing else, this footnote reaffirms Tamiya’s attention to authenticity in those early days of their RC venture. The suspension was not the only factor influencing its scale performance: the use of a water-resistant mechanism box to protect the electrical components from moisture damage also allowed the buggy to tackle the elements. This opened up new possibilities for running, which contributed to the chassis’ popularity among more casual enthusiasts. The bodywork did require some deviation from the original Funco buggies to fit the mechanism box, but for all intents and purposes the Rough Rider was an authentic dune buggy at 1:10 scale – and a fraction of the price! The combination of scale aesthetics and performance was befitting the “Model Suitable for Radio Control” philosophy that Tamiya’s nascent RC department sought to embrace. With pronounced positive rear camber and no rear differential, the Rough Rider was really best suited for sandy beaches and dunes – again, like the real thing. As mentioned, the chassis was also used for the Sand Scorcher, which took the Beetle theme even further by introducing a modified Volkswagen-style shell over the original platform. Later, Tamiya would use the chassis underneath a Ford F-150 Ranger body as its own release. In response to the growing number of racers using these buggies, Tamiya would eventually develop the chassis further for the Super Champ (now around today as the Fighting Buggy). The chassis became known as the SRB (Special Racing Buggy), and for all its innovation, there were plenty of improvements that could be made to increase its performance. It has been written that the Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher may have created the “cottage industry” of aftermarket parts (think Team CRP, MIP, Thorp, etc.) as enterprising builders and racers sought to gain the edge on the track. Popular upgrades included items such as lightweight suspension arms, alloy chassis plates, parts to replace the mechanism box with a lighter solution (addressed later with the Super Champ), and an ever-increasing variety of wheel and tire combinations. The legacy of the Rough Rider (and Sand Scorcher) may be similar to that of the later Grasshopper and Hornet, which also brought off-road RC cars to a wider audience. As buggy design evolved into something quite different in the name of outright performance, the scale appearance and driving characteristics of the SRBs remain part of a past era, though revived in other genres such as trail driving! Grastens and the Buggy Champ I bought my Buggy Champ at the local hobby shop (back then, Advance Hobbies near Toronto, Ontario) for what was probably $350. I had been in the hobby for about one year, having started with another Tamiya: the Toyota GT-One on the F103RS. I enjoyed it immensely, and a whetted appetite was now eager to try off-road buggies. At the time, I had little clue as to what the Buggy Champ represented. I found myself living the experience of a Rough Rider enthusiast: once marvelling at its performance off-road, I sought to improve its overall handling by introducing new parts. The modifications I remember the most were the alloy chassis plate, the ball differential, and a succession of coil-spring dampers that replaced the leak-prone originals. I had even considered the RC Channel double-wishbone upgrade for the rear suspension, if only because I found the positive rear camber made handling tricky, and the wear on the outsides of the tires was not looking good… Life intervened, as it usually does, and for a period, the Buggy Champ sat along with my other cars on the shelf. Over time, it was joined by others, and as the on-off relationship with the hobby continued, the car saw less and less action – I would be too engrossed with other projects, like the Lancia Rally that I had taken on and with which I began my love affair with RC rally cars. Unfortunately, life then saw me sell the Buggy Champ (along with the shell for said Lancia Rally) when I needed the funds for a trip. I sold the car to another member on TamiyaClub, who, like me, had been looking for a fun and reliable runner. Perhaps it is best that I have since forgotten this member’s name (and I believe this member no longer frequents the forums), for it broke my heart to learn that this member decided it was not to his taste and sat it on the shelf. I had given him a bargain for it, too… It was at that moment that I came to realize my mistake, though it would take some more time to regret it (after all, it was a good trip!). The Intervening Years Over time, while moving a well-loved car for pocket change to someone who did not appreciate it still hurt, I could also understand that the Buggy Champ was a car best suited for a specific set of conditions. As I grew up and settled down, I would continue to waver between full and zero commitment to the hobby. I struggled with unemployment for an embarrassing amount of time, which definitely affected my ability to continue with my RC cars. Even when I did find full-time work, a diagnosis of clinical depression and the resulting medical struggles changed my life and threw it into turmoil… … And as if in the eye of a storm, I calmly picked up my RC cars again. This time, having finally moved in with my partner and being otherwise completely independent, I found I could focus more time, energy, and (most importantly) money on the hobby that I knew I still loved. The acquisition of a Tamiya Hotshot (courtesy of said partner!) rekindled my interest, and a succession of builds signalled my return to radio-controlled cars. And then: well, where I now live, there is a beach less than an hour’s drive away… Could I really be thinking…? Even with all of the other off-road buggies I have now? A Second Chance Everything pointed me towards another Buggy Champ. Remembering how much I have come to miss my first one, I made the decision to find one – and this time, not let go! Unfortunately, like pretty much everything, the Buggy Champs that were once plentiful online and beyond (namely, the ‘Metallic Editions’ in silver and gold) were now going for way more than I recalled. I had to remember that it had been several years since I last seriously sought one out, but this seemed ridiculous; the majority of them were asking $700 and beyond. The advent of coronavirus inspired me to turn ‘local,’ which is to say to the local online classified ads. There, I found a seller who had a new-in-sealed-box Buggy Champ for well under what everyone else wanted for theirs, out of Toronto. It was even somewhat near where I grew up… I wanted it, but my bank account did not! I made a deal to put down a deposit on it, following which I would come up with the rest of the money in two weeks’ time. I had it all paid for by the next week, and while perhaps I could have negotiated a better price, I felt grateful to have found a brand-new one in the country that did not cost me half a month’s pay! The other nice thing about buying within the country is that shipping is commensurately fast. By the following week, I had it in my hands! When I opened it up and set out the shrink-wrapped box, I just stood there, staring at it: while I may never find my original Buggy Champ again, I have been given another chance to experience it. With the experience I had accumulated with other models in that time, I would appreciate it more than I ever could have back then, and now know better than to part with this one – would you believe I embraced the box and told it I would never let go? I was unaware of the full extent of my emotions until the day it arrived. Maybe it will become a nice memory of mine in this hobby. The Kit Many of you have seen a Buggy Champ before, but for the Gamilans, Betelgeusians, generally-uninformed, and nostalgic types like me out there, I have some photos: Would you also believe I found the box smaller than I remembered? The beauty of a new-in-box example is that I can relive the build, too! That blister packaging brought back so many happy memories: Beneath the blister pack with the tires, there is a special box, decorated with photos of the Buggy Champ in action. The contents of that box: Essentially, it contains all the hardware and most of the main chassis pieces. Under the blister pack with the cast-metal suspension parts, we have the grey three-piece wheels. Sitting in the centre compartment in bags were the bodyshell, the rear bumper, body parts, mechanism box, and the kit-supplied ESC: At the very bottom are those famous box-art decals: And thus, the kit! It will go together in a manner unlike many modern offerings, which I look forward to! The Build The Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher were popular in their day, and the Buggy Champ and re-released Sand Scorcher also enjoyed a following. However, in over a decade since they were re-released, the supply of non-LiPo batteries compatible with the kit’s mechanism box had seemingly gone from small to infinitesimal… There are still several offset-hump Ni-MH batteries available in Europe, and I found myself importing three of them from the U.K. specifically for this model. With the first one, I had the local hobby shop (again, Advance Hobbies) produce some for me from two standard stick packs I supplied. Far away from them or any other suitable hobby shop this time, I went overseas. My experience with the first one showed me that I could not make good use of a ball differential in the back, but that the alloy chassis I had purchased was definitely useful. I found one online, and decided to pair that with a smaller metal bumper for this kit. The electronics I will be using: Pictured are an aftermarket Spektrum-compatible receiver, an old HPI SF-10W servo, an Axial RC LED module that will allow me to fit lights, and a Tamiya TBLE-02S ESC. The last-named is of great confusion to me. I clearly recall my first Buggy Champ being issued with the TEU-101BK, and thought that the original re-issue’s run (excluding Metallic Editions) predated the TBLE-02S completely. There is a thread on TamiyaClub stating that kits are not shrink-wrapped at the factory, so I have no illusions about that. However, is this really as the kit had arrived? While I was at it, I purchased some Sand Scorcher body accessories: The plan had been to use the exhaust pipe from this set on the back of the chassis, though it looks like the Buggy Champ was not issued one for good reason: it is likely not to fit with the shell on the chassis… The build will therefore make use of an aftermarket front bumper and metal chassis plate, but will otherwise be mechanically-stock. LEDs will be equipped using a leftover sprue full of light buckets and lenses from my Comical Avante build, which was a suggestion from Tamiya’s release of the sprue as its own hop-up part. At this juncture, I intend to use the kit-supplied decals, but will not use the suggested TS-12 Orange for the paint. For body colour, I actually have a few options that do not require more purchases: on hand, I have cans of TS-43 Racing Green (the colour I used for my first Buggy Champ, I think), TS-35 Park Green, TS-15 Blue, and TS-8 Italian Red. I even have enough TS-26 Pure White and TS-7 Racing White if I feel so inclined, but at present, I do not. The Racing Green would evoke my first buggy, though the possibilities of the other colours I have are compelling – a decision I am happy to mull over while I build the chassis. The rare revisit of a memory is the subject of this build thread. Onward!
  4. Since this seems to come up every once in a while, I thought I would write this all down in one spot for the sake of posterity. SRB (Special Racing Buggy) wheels can be placed into (3) groups: 1. Rough Rider/Buggy Champ. 2. Super Champ/Fighting Buggy/Sand Scorcher. 3. Ford Ranger XLT/Brat. The RR/BC wheels are 1.7”, 5 spoke, and silver. The Fast Attack Vehicle uses the same but molded in brown. All of these sets use the square block style road/sand tires. The SC/FB/SS wheels are 1.5”, 5 spoke, and white. These are also used on the Grasshopper, Hornet, and Frog. All of these sets use the same ribbed sand tire on the front. On the rear, the SS and GH use sand paddles, and the SC/FB, Frog, and Hornet use the spiked off road tires. The XLT/Brat wheels are 1.7”, 8 spoke (thanks @mtbkym01), and white. The front wheel on these sets are the same width as the rear so all four wheels use the same square block tire as the rear of the RR/BC. There are some variations to these such as the Jun Watanabe Hornet (black wheels) and the Brat blue edition (black wheels). If anyone else would like to info or corrections, please do so! Also, this might be a good place to list 3rd party manufacturers that made wheels or tires for these cars or in this size range.
  5. If we take a trip in the way back time machine to the mid Eighties, you would find me in the market for a new RC truck. If you were a fan of monster trucks and RC, your choices were limited. There wasn't much in the market for dedicated monsters. There were trucks based on pan car chassis, a few smaller scale kits like the Lunch Box and Midnight Pumpkin, and some obscure ones like the Big Grizzly and Royal Crusher, and let's not forget the Big Bear. At this time, I was really wanting the Pumpkin. I saved all the money I could and was ready to pull the trigger. So the day came when my dad and I went to the hobby shop to get the truck. I looked around with my RCCA classifieds intent on getting the MP, when my dad spotted something completely new and bigger. Suffice it to say, when we left the store I was a proud owner of a Tamiya Blackfoot. My pop even helped me out on the price difference 'cause he knew that the BF was the better choice. Not that the Pumpkin is a slouch by any means. My purchase consisted of the kit, a Protech 702 charger, and a 6 cell Gonzo battery pack. I had a transmitter and receiver already. Fast forward a couple years to when I made a new friend in junior high. We both shared common interests, RC being one of them. So one day I brought over my Blackfoot to show off, and then he brings out his Monster Beetle. I'm like, Whats that all about then??! This kid's got the mother of orv's! The red body, gold wheels, and those beautiful CVA shocks. If memory serves, he even had a Thorp differential. Awestruck isn't a good enough term. Well, time flies by but the memories remain. So now that Tamiya has been re releasing its old school inventory, I picked up a Beetle and this is her story.... I'll post the build pics and continue on with upgrades/changes along the way. Oh, the sight of a NIB model. Look at it, look at it..... The backbone of the Beetle. Notice I am adding aluminum option parts. Yeah baby. No fooling around here. The single most important upgrade you can bestow upon your orv: An MIP ball differential. Added more option parts. And the awesome yellow CVA shocks. Insane amount of speed and torque. A wicked new OFNA red HD servo saver. Traded out the 540 motor and kit esc, replaced them with a Traxxas 12T 550 and XL5 esc. Another angle and a shot of the alloy pinion cover. Aluminum body supports. This rig is rock solid. Started out with Proline Badlands 2.2's on gold anodized aluminum rims and alloy knock offs. Looking tidy. Aluminum chassis skid plate. Battery door must be removed for this. Bolts right to the gearbox. JG Mfg front tower brace. So I went ahead and bought a white Sand Scorcher body off fleabay to use as an everyday basher body. I ordered some custom decals from the UK 'cause I liked the color combo. After a few runs, I was made blatantly aware that the tires were way too soft and the alloy rims wouldn't hold them without glue. Since the wheels are more for show and I already put a couple nicks on them, they were replaced with the kit wheels and tires. Sooooo much better. After about a week or so, I got tired of the white and removed the decals (they were kinda crappy to begin with - quality wise), primed it up and repainted the body and finished her off with the kit decals and three coats of clear coat. Oh, and the B-pillar, door handles and side trim are blessed with bare metal foil. About the paint scheme, I found an image online of a Beetle someone owned back in the day and fell in love with it. So I copied it. Look carefully and you can see the rare JG mfg front bumper. I also added some light pods behind it since the Sand Scorcher body doesn't support the MB's baja lights on the nose cone. Ooh yeah, 7 cells baby! Not going LiPo on this bug. The 12T motor and 7 cell pack is stupid fast already. It would be uncontrollable with a brushless LiPo setup. Installation of lights. Dark outside? No problem. Twiningmike HD steering rod kit. Ultra rare NOS You-G aluminum dampers. More images to come soon. Let me know what you think. Cheers.
  6. Continued some work for a project I started on years ago, the Baja Surf Buggy. This is another of my favourite projects, which is based on an orginal Sand Scorcher (I have no re-re cars in my collection), but it was upgraded with lots of great custom parts made by various TC members. One detail that was fun to make, was the 1:10 Kelly Slater Channel Island/Al Merrick replica I scratch built. I'll update with current pics soon, as the board has some more missing decals, and the actual car has some RR wheels & alu rims. Next up will be paint and some more custom designed parts. There are others roof racks that looks sexier, but I wanted to make one that is widely used... The first preview of the project can be viewed http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=76974&sid=610'>here. ​ The first custom part I've started designing, is a roof rack for the surfboards (I've already made a 3D printable version surfboard also). I based my design on a traditional VW bug rack - for you VW purist, please correct me, as the rack is probablt not made by VW? I plan to print the rack frame in metal, and screw in the wood with some tiny screws I ordered from eBay. Reference pic of the rack: Work in progress: ​ ​ I will update this project as it continues now...
  7. Hi, I am new to the Forum and signed up to help me learn a bit more about the original Rough Rider i recently purchased and also hopefully source some of the broken parts. I am looking for a set of (left and right) Front axle mounts (Part N6) per the original manual. I have attached a picture of mine which are damaged. I believe they are the Mk1 version (please correct me if i am wrong) and would like to replace with the same. Shipping would need to be to Sydney Australia, which of course i would cover! Appreciate it if someone has a set they would be willing to sell. Regards Brent
  8. So my SRB runner was built with a sport tuned motor. I burned the first motor years ago.. so when I replaced it, it went with the smaller spur pinion option. Today, my son was running it in the yard on grass.. after first pack I noticed it was warm.. a few minutes into second pack and car stopped. Motor was definitely hot and smelled crispy! Now a few years have passed between burnt motors but I recalled the old one stopped because one of the brushes had detached. So I looked in armature window and yep, same issue. So I’m now considering other motors options. I modded. Gear box years back to accept a standard brushed can and I’ve seen @Shodog 13t HW EZrun combo. im wondering if there are any other options?
  9. Scorching Willy is complete. My Sand Scorcher's tribute to the original Wild Willy M38. I am happy with how it turned out.
  10. In the market for a Sand Scorcher, Super Champ, Buggy Champ or any of the SRB cars. Project is ok. Re-Re is ok.
  11. I would like to find a Sand Scorcher or Fighting Buggy. Re-Re is fine, or vintage project is fine also. Will consider other SRB chassis I would prefer trade with somebody looking for an original Wild Willy M38.
  12. Here's an idea that's been going through my mind a couple of times: I love the look of the Sand Scorcher. IMHO it's one of the most scale bodies that Tamiya have ever done. And while I'd love to get an SRB, it seems that every affordable SRB slips from my fingers, and new is great, but expensive. Also, I don't need yet another chassis to abuse and to adore. And that's why I'm going to build something out of a TT01E. Why a TT, I hear you ask? First and formost, I have one not doing anything. It's been last year's Tamiya Cup-runner, but started to wear down severly. I was offered a basically-brand-new TT01E for peanuts, and transferred all the go-faster stuff to the new car, leaving this poor chassis in the back of the workshop up on some stands. Until today. @Fuijo had a spare Scorcher shell I could use to kick this project underway, so back onto the work bench my old TT went, and I plopped the VW body on just to see what needed to be done. Well, the wheelbase is off, but I already figured that out. The good news is that the body fits on the chassis without interference from the main bath tub. Also good news is that the wheelbase is less off than I thought it would be. However... The front and rear bumper supports need to get lobbed off. In the front it just might work with the nose cone on, but the one in the rear sticks out too far to be of any use. First issue: wheelbase. Tamiya gives you two options to build the car, the 'normal' 257mm and short wheelbase. Short being about 251mm, and designed with the Porsche 911 and Capri and such in mind. Converting is simply a matter of flipping the arms. On the left = regular wheelbase, and on the right is short wheelbase. This gets us in the ballpark, but not quite.... This is where I had a bit of a change of mind. What if, instead of going for a slammed street look, I lifted the car up and turned it into a rally bug? The distance from the wheels to the wheel arches would disguise the wheelbase being off (by about 5mm, I think), and while it would impact its on-road performance it would turn the car into an all-road plaything. Excellent! What I'll try next time I can find some time in my schedule: - See if I can cut away the bumpstops on the chassis to allow the arms to hang down further. - Figure out a way to attach the body - dig into my spare parts pile to make this car a complete runner again.
  13. Hi all, I recently acquired a Tamiya Sand Scorcher 2010 re release and have set it up with a 3350mah battery and torque tuned silver can (i thought any more powerful would be overkill with this chassis). Everything else is stock and I've just built up the chassis a week ago and have tried it out a few times on varied surfaces. (even in Britain's march snow). i find it great but i have found a few problems which as an inexperienced R/C driver/ builder I don't know how to solve. First off is the steering linkages, these seem to have an awful lot of play in them and i have bent them a few times. Next is the shocks which seem to leak like there's no tomorrow. I've also seen some lovely aluminium centreline wheels for the SRB online but haven't found any for sale. Lastly is the aluminium chassis worth it? I'm just asking as i have limited experience in this field so not sure if these are one off jobs or if they are available to buy anywhere. If anyone has any advice or pictures of their own work it would all be appreciated. Regards, Ned P.S. the blitzer beetle has a seemingly good stance and strikes me as something that would actually be pretty capable once Hopped up. Has anyone had any experience with upgraded blitzers and is it worth getting one or just investing in a modern buggy/truggy?
  14. Hello, I'm new here (I guess you knew that). Very quick intro... I used to use remote control cars approx. 30 years ago (just for fun, not competition), I started off with a Tamiya Sand Scorcher and later also bought a Tamiya Boomerang (1986 ish). My Mum has just moved house and both cars (and kits) have turned up again, much to the excitement of myself and even more so my 6 year old son. Well, all the Boomerang needed was a new battery and we were away but now we need/want a second car (as you all know) to more than double the fun ! For that reason (and to help fund the second car) I've decide that maybe the Sand Scorcher would be better off in the hands of somebody more clued-up and who could appreciate it more than me and my son will (he'll just smash it up I'm sure), So I'm looking to sell it but really not sure where to price it at and also I'm writing this during my (late) lunch break and just realised I don't have any pictures to upload to make this make more sense, sorry but I will post picture later this evening.
  15. Hello Some time ago, I posted here the restoration of my vintage Sand Scorcher The point is that the battery is dead and the motor broke some time ago, so I need to buy replacement Can you recomend me some options? The battery was a Turnigy 4200mah LIPO hard case and I would like something similar but I would prefer a smaller one, even if it has less capacity. About the motor, I had a RS-540 Torque Tuned if I am not wrong, I would like something similar, better if its cheaper. I would appreciate any help, I am a bit lost now. Thank you and sorry if I made some mistakes, English is not mi mother language
  16. Hi guys, I am considering selling some of the collection as it is becoming to big and i have to move to a new house. Maybe they can find a lovely new home Third is this original Sand Scorcher. It is completely original and restored with a few re re parts (bumper, electronic box, and new gears) The car has been driven but has since a few years spent its time on the shelf There is no esc nor msc incl and also no servo. the main steering link is still there. the only things missing are 1 of the screw/spring that holds the electronic box closed and also the rear oil dampers. I have the front ones, brand new in plastic bag still to be mounted on the car but the rears are missing. the nose piece has a small crack in it at the bottom just above the bumper but is is hardly noticeable. There is a standard 540 engine mounted. I am off course open for offers. Paypal available between friends offcourse I live in Belgium Thanks
  17. I have always mounted the sand paddles on my Grasshoppers in this direction but I see people mounting them the other way all the time. Is this the "proper" way?
  18. I though i'd share with you my printed wheel arches curently on Shapeways. I've sold a few sets now, and people are really happy with them. There is also my brushless fitting kit, of which i have sold a lot now. If you look under my 'creations' tab, you will also see my dashboard project that is near completion. I have two versions, one with metal detailing around the dials, one with plastic. The metal is more expensive, and a bit chunkier. The shapeways 'stainless steel' metal colour is not as chrome like as i'd hoped. I'm starting to think the plastic parts painted silver will be better - what do you think? https://www.shapeways.com/designer/scorched_parts/creations
  19. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331919950933 Vintage Tamiya Bigwig Hotshot Sand Scorcher Clodbuster NIB Wheels 50293 50121 NIP Bigwig Moon Craft Wheels P/N 5293 50293 For Models: Bigwig (58057) NIB Sand Scorcher Front Wheel + Tire Set P/N 5121 50121 For Models: Sand Scorcher (58016), Frog (58041), Hornet (58045), Grasshopper (58043) NIP Hotshot / Supershot Gold Plated Wheels P/N 266 50266 For Models: Hotshot (58047), Supershot (58054) NIP Grasshopper II (Super G) Front Day Glow Wheel Set (Yellow) P/N 49022 For Models: Grasshopper II Super G (49501), Grasshopper II Super G (92018), Grasshopper II (58074), Fox (58051), Wild One (58050) NIP Super Hornet Front Day Glow Wheel Set (Orange) P/N 0445495 For Models: Super Hornet (58124), Grasshopper II (58074), Fox (58051), Wild One (58050) NOS Original White Clod Buster Wheels P/N 0555026 For Models: Clod Buster (58065), Bullhead (58089) Price dropped to $120. $20 more than the last set of Moon Crafts alone that sold on ebay went for...
  20. Lots of unused CRP, Thorp and JG part for the Tamiya SRB-chassis (and some other models) for sale. Most parts are without the original packaging, but were never installed and are basically in "as new" condition. Some scuff marks and similar "shelf wear" possible due to high age. Will of course send pics on request so you know the exact condition of what you get! - Aluminum roll-cages - Aluminum rear cages - Aluminum roof and front rollbar for single seater buggy bodies (ie. Rough Rider). (Requires the use of aluminum roll-cage) - Aluminum nerf bars for stock SRB chassis. - Aluminum nerf bars for SRB's with butterfly chassis - Coilovers for original shocks - Coilovers for red 1/8 Kyosho shocks - Rebuild kits for original dampers - Front stabilizers for original SRB front suspension - Front stabilizers for widened SRB front suspension - Rear stabilizers for CRP roll Cage. - Rear damper brackets for mounting 1/8 dampers on CRP roll cage - Extensions for front damper tower - Butterfly chassises - Chassis lowering plates - Ball diffs - Gold anodized aluminum outer wheels for Holiday Buggy tires - Silver anodized aluminum outer wheels for Holiday Buggy tires - Steering kits - Servo mounts - Wide and hardened tubes for front suspension (Gold anodized, but possibly also some silver anodized) - Hardened tubes for stock front suspension (Gold anodized) - Hardened steel rear wheel shafts with aluminum hubs for mounting Holiday Buggy wheels - Kydex bumpers for wider front suspension - Alternative Ratio 48dp spur gears with hubs. - And more. Send me a PM if interested in any of the listed items or if you're searching for CRP, Thorp or JG parts not listed. (don't have much of anything else than parts for the SRB-chassis though!)
  21. I have most parts required to assemble roughly 120 SRB-chassises from original release used parts. (Typical fragile/quick wearing parts of course in (much) smaller quantities). From early to late production SRB's, including Super Champ. All defective parts have of course been discarded. Consider selling some parts as I have realized that life is too short to ever need them all. Send me a PM if interested in specific parts. Will send photos.
  22. I traded a few of my aluminum cnc sand scorcher chassis to my friend and he posted two of them for sale on ebay. this one is machined on the top and bottom, it took about 2.5 hours on my little cnc machine. Also I sand blasted it for a matt finish http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Tamiya-Sand-Scorcher-VW-Chassis-plate-Aluminum-NEW-USA-Scale-Custom-TRF-SRB-/121789807050?hash=item1c5b3cf9ca:g:6QEAAOSwwbdWIYsg This one is machined on the top only and the screw holes for the radio box are counter sunk. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Tamiya-Sand-Scorcher-VW-Chassis-plate-Aluminum-NEW-USA-Scale-Custom-TRF-SRB-/121789805135?hash=item1c5b3cf24f:g:GWIAAOSw5ZBWIYdO This is what they look like mounted, They can mount in the regular spot or they can be attached above the mount tabs. They are 1/8 thick aluminum. I test fit each one the holes line up perfect.
  23. With the Australian dollar in decline these days, overseas buyers may find some good value here. My full list and photos - http://rctoymemories.com/items-for-sale/ All items are 100% vintage and original, as I have zero reissue items. A few examples... Vintage Original NIB Cox/Kyosho Tomahawk... Tamiya Hotshot trump cards. Rare 1980s promo item. Update: I have 2 left (1 sold) Vintage Original 1982 1/10 Nikko HiLux 4WD (Mk2) with remote gearshift and remote headlights. Near mint. Update: This item is sold. Vintage Original 1987 Taiyo Jet Fighter. Near new. Update: This item is sold. Vintage Original NIB Tamiya Wild One... Vintage Original 1982 1/10 Nikko HiLux 4WD (Mk1) with remote gearshift and remote headlights. Boxed with all inserts and paperwork. 99% New in box (zero wear, a couple of tiny marks).Update: This item is sold. Vintage Original NIB Tamiya Hornet... Vintage Original Nikko Alaska Polar Expedition Mercedes Unimog (clean/restored)... And lots more (and more to come). Thanks for looking.
  24. Does anyone have a matches pair of SRB / Buggy champ gearbox halves spare and for sale? This is for a beach runner so I am happy with later or re-re type, provided all the threads are good and the rear suspension arm holes aren't oval. Based in the UK but happy to buy WW. AlG
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