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Found 9 results

  1. There are so many TT-02 builds on here (one of them is my own!) that I hesitated doing yet another TT-02 build thread. However, this one is going to be built to rally spec with a number of hop-ups, some of which I think are unique. So I hope you all find this worthwhile. I am still waiting for a fair number of bits to arrive from distant lands such as Michigan, the U.K., Hong Kong and Japan. It will be at least a couple of weeks before I can start this build thread in earnest. I will begin though with an unboxing video.
  2. As predicted, when my sons birthday (he's turning 9 on the 21st) check arrived from grandma he wanted to spend the money he's been saving since Christmas to buy the TT-02. The birthday check put him right at the sale price for the kit at Tower, but the sale was over by the time the check arrived in the mail. Good thing I'm a smart dad and I had already bought it. I pulled it out from hiding and showed him. He literally did a happy dance. He wants to do a build thread on it and asked if he could do an un-boxing video first. So I said sure. Here is his unboxing vid. I'll update as he builds. I'm going to let him do as much of this as he is physically able. The only bit I plan to do for him is the body shell. It'll be close to box art but we don't have the PS-35 Blue-Purple called for in the instructions. Part of the deal was he had to use paint that we already have which is likely going to come down to either PS-4 Blue or PS-16 Metallic Blue.
  3. In the pipeline from Tamiya: 47329 Heavy Dump Truck Metallic Special (GF-01) and a few parts for the CC-01, GF-01, TT-02 and TT-02B too: 42308 TRF Silicone Oil Bottle Bag 47333 TT-02 A-Parts (Upright), Blue 47334 TT-02 A-Parts (Upright), White 47335 TT-02 D-Parts (Motor Mount), Blue 47336 TT-02 D-Parts (Motor Mount), White 47337 TT-02B B-Parts (Upright), Blue 47338 TT-02B B-Parts (Upright), White 47339 TT-02 Hard Lower Deck, Blue 47340 TT-02 Hard Lower Deck, White 54733 TT-02 Aluminum Rear Uprights (3.0 deg) 54734 GF-01 FRP Battery Plate 54735 CC-01 Mud Block Tires (2 Pcs.) 54736 Gold Plated Mesh Wheels (+2mm) (4 Pcs.)
  4. There are two recent variants of the TT-02 Type S worth considering for this; the standard kit (58600) which remains widely available and if you can still find one, the drift spec kit (47301). I purchased the TT-02D Type S because it was on offer at £99 (not to be confused with the standard non Type S TT-02 drift chassis 58584). I decided to build this rally car from the Type S chassis kit simply to see how good it would be and to answer many of the common questions which appear on here and in other forums on the suitability of the Type S for rally. I have owned a variety of the standard Tamiya rally cars over the years and although I haven't finished this yet, based on the rolling chassis and ground clearance it looks like it is going to be pretty decent for bashing. The standard TT-02 rally cars, which currently come in either the Lancia (58570) or Subaru (58631) variants, are ok but as per all regular TT-02 kits they lack any real adjustability. Notable exclusions from the standard kits which in my view should be essential for Rally are ball bearings and oil damped shocks. Common questions on setting up the TT-02 Type S as a Rally Car: 1) Why chose the Type S variant over the regular TT-02? The Type S is a much higher specification TT-02 and has a number of aftermarket parts including: [1] FRP suspension arms (51297), FRP axle uprights (51293 / 51352 ), [2] FRP suspension mounts (14305646 / 14305647), [3] metal 12mm hex wheel adapters (53056), [4] Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746), [5] full ball bearings, [6] adjustable threaded turnbuckles and steering arms, and [7] steel suspension mounts (54634). The TT-02D Type S variant (now discontinued) also includes the Tamiya aluminium propeller shaft (54501) and propeller joints (54502). The cost of buying all these separately as hop-ups including the spacers and screws and other extras not mentioned could easily be the cost of the kit again at ~£100. 2) I understand you can't increase ground clearance at the front with the FRP suspension arms? This is true in standard form because the upgraded FRP front arms are restricted where the axle upright meets the suspension arm cross bar. Removing a small amount of material from the suspension arm cross bar, increases the ground clearance significantly. The steps to do this are shown further below. 3) How much ground clearance can I get? With a small amount of material removed from the front suspension arm cross bar, using the standard CVA Super Mini Shocks with the short lower shock eyelet at the front and long eyelet at the back; the ground clearance is 1” / 25mm. You can increase this further both front and back but the maximum is approximately 35mm before the dogbone style driveshafts and turnbuckles are at a comfortable limit. 25mm is plenty for off road with this chassis and its off road capability is really limited more by wheel/tyre size beyond this. 4) Do I need to upgrade the Super Mini CVA Shocks which are included to Mini or Short CVA Shocks? No, they are perfectly fine as they come in the kit. The Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746) can be built to a standard length of 56mm using the short length lower eyelet and 62mm using the long length lower eyelet. Both of these eyelets are included on the parts tree and with the adjustability of the arms you can max out suspension travel and ground clearance with the Super Mini Shocks. The difference between the Super Mini CVA Shocks and regular Mini CVA Shocks is in the damper piston body. This is shorter on the Super Mini Shock but the piston rod is the same length allowing the same maximum stroke. When building The Type S chassis up in Rally Spec, there are a few considerations: 1) You will need a body. 2) You will need an ESC. 3) You will need Rally Block tyres. The standard rims are 1.9" (49mm) so Tamiya Rally Block tyres (50476) will fit. Modifications 1) The main modification needed on this chassis to increase the ground clearance is to the front suspension arms (51297). The rear suspension is free moving. a) The extract from the manual below shows where the binding occurs. You simply file the material away on the suspension arm cross bar (highlighted in green) to the new profile. I used a square needle file with blank edges so no material was removed from the side of the arms. I chose to remove material on the cross bar rather than the axle upright since the profile on the axle looks to be key to achieving integrity of the whole upright part. 2) The rear CVA Super Mini Shock unit needs to be built with the long eyelet (tree part 2) from the parts tree not the short eyelet (tree part 1). The front uses the short eyelet as per the standard instructions. 3) Instead of installing the suspension arms so the orientation is for the 2 mounting holes for the ball connectors that connect to the lower shock eyelets; the arms are reversed to orientate with the 3 mounting holes. These arms are fully reversible so this is fine. If the images don't show up for you below let me know and I will re host.
  5. monchan

    first build, happiness

    Firstly thanks for everyones imput with the questions I had. I found the build relativley easy. Though I didn`t have few "S##T" moments while building it. Mainly, hop up titainum screws. Thought I`d put them in from the beginning to reduce weight. And I thought it would take time to do it later. well I didn`t realize they were hex screws, tried to do the build with the small include hex spanner. Impossible. LHS was closed but the home centre had something that got me through. have since got a proper one. Anyway putting in first was a mistake. After a few stripped heads and a bit of paninc. I realized that its much easier to use the included screws first to cut the thread in the plastic then put the hexes in. Had a bit of an upset with my paint job, but after removing the film and put on the decals I could fogive myself as it was my first paint job. The ESC TBLE 03s. #4 led keeps flashes red, thought I had done something wrong so didnt run my car. After re-reading and re-reading, I found one line that says #4 led flashes when not useing boosted parts. Not sure what that means but guessed I wasn`t. let rip on the road out the front. my cat chased it around like a dog, so had to stop before he got hurt. was immpressed. Took it to the local track, to familiarize myself with the track and car. Big smiles..........crash. smile a bit smaller. a few more rolls and crashes, cracked body and scratches, but back to big smiles. entering a beginner race on the morrow.... I dont seem to able to upload other images.
  6. shozgetz

    Advice on the TT-02`

    Hi i am new to Tamiya and i just bought a TT-02 and a CC01, What i would like some advice on is what would be the must upgrade parts for the TT-02 ? Also is there a metal diff/bevel gear set that can be used? Any advice would be great and thank you for taking the time to read this !!!
  7. Theibault

    Tamiya TT-02 Type S Video Build

    Here is my first ever full build video. Hope you enjoy and make sure to subscribe so you get notified when part 2 is up. Let me know what you think!
  8. Hi all, Heres my Noob guide to building a TT02, to note i am a complete novice at this and still dont understand a lot! especially electronics and power systems for RC! This is my 1st attempt at building any RC car (anything RC infact!). Big THANKS to Quandry & The RC Racer for the guides they have done, as that helps a LOT! I've probably messed up along the way, as i got a feeling somethings havent fitted right, guess time will tell on Sunday when it gets powered up!.... Mercedes Benz GT3 #58586 Tamiya TT-02 Few TT02 hop-up parts & Jazrider TT02 hop-ups/Ball Bearings - 2S1P Turnigy ROAR Lipo Power Tamiya SuperStock RZ 23T motor - HiForce/Venon 320a ESC (china special!) - Turnigy TGY-4409MD Digi metal ball Servo - Absima CR2S v2 2.4ghz control system Stage 1: (5pm) All the bits, left on the table for about 1hour while i figured out where to start Oh Crumbs! Thats my Toe! Stage 2: (6:05pm) Bits still out on table, but after re-reading the threads on here and so on, am ready to test my building patience! Stage 3: (6:50pm) Took me ages to figure out how to put together the prop thing! haha!!! As i had the hop-up part, i just kept confusing myself with which part is which part! Stage 4: (7:20pm) Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Trying to hold the motor plate and mount onto the motor to screw it in place was not easy, another thing to take me ages to get going! Got the prop shaft fitted with the joints, bearings etc and slotted into space.... At first, seemed to be some slack on the prop shaft, but had read that others found the prop shaft loose to start with. Stage 5: (8:45pm) Built the Front and Rear Diffs, fitted to the chassis, then added the other bits/arms, etc. Reason this process took for ages is because i got to add the grease to the cogs and all the places it tells you to, DOH!!!!! So had to undo everything and start again after greasing the bits!! Stage 6: (9pm) Motor fitted in easy peasy, although out of the 3 mini things you get to hold the pinion into the motor, i dropped 2 and could'nt/still cant find them! Plate fitted as per instructions.. Stage 7: (9:15pm) All looking good so far i think, next part will be to tackle the Front Upright bits which makes me think a blast of coffee is needed here to steady the hands as the instructions make me think i need to have 4 hands!! ------------ Stage 8: (10:50pm) Front uprights fitted and screwed to the arms, etc..... All that time to do just the fronts...... Yup, you guessed it, forgot the grease again!! DOH! Undo it all again, add grease to the bones, bearings, etc and then refit, super finicky, didnt like doing this part! Real ballache! Stage 9: (11:20pm) Rears complete, remembered the grease this time and found the rears easier to fit (as read on Quandrys thread).... Although the rear right arm/upright didnt seem to fit right when pushing in the screw pin.... took some bodging which has resulted in the rear suspension not looking equal --------- Stage 10: (11:50pm) Shocks fitted and all other bits that go with it, but left screws lose, as forgot to buy damper oil for the shocks..... Built the tamiya ones, but the blue ones look better! Stage 11: (3am) 3 hours straight of pulling my hair out wondering why bits dont fit, turns out i was connecting bits the wrong way round! DOH!!!! and forgeting more greaseing!! The bits to lock in the steering linkage seemed a right pain, but i put that down to me being a novice.. I screwed the steering bits really tight, so there is no 'play' at all in the linkages, not sure if they are supposed to be lose, am sure i will find out the hard way once powered up! Confused myself lots over the servo and bits it uses, turns out you use the Tamiya bits and only the Servo, not ANY of the servo bits! Think i am getting somewhere with it now, and it all looks like it is fitting into place! Stage 12: (3:44am) Just fitted brake discs, motor cover and checked screw points.... Wife gets out of bed and comes storming into the office/stuies playroom , get an earful so time to goto bed! Its now Friday, just gotta wait for the Absima TX/RX to turn up on Saturday, and hopefully my hong kong wheels and i should be cooking on gas, thats providing; A: Once the Lipo battery is powered and plugged in, the car doesnt blow up cos i have done something wrong B: Drive it straight into the Kerb or Wall! C: Something else goes wrong! Lovely jubbley! - Total spent including 2 shells = £327 (quite a few parts from HongKong as cheaper, and i'm a savvy shopper anyway! )
  9. Hi all, I am new to the RC scene, in terms of wanting to build one from scratch... I bought a TA-05 car 2 years ago, someone had already built it as a shelf queen, looked like standard parts + Tamiya Sport Tuned Motor. From that, I didn't get chance to learn about the RC setup, just went straight in with razzing it in the street, which was great fun, and easy to drive.... Then I got introduced to an RC club, went along, and did the carpet racing indoors. For me, not having a clue, this is where it went wrong, tires didn't like carpet, everyone else was twice as fast, but more importantly, I was like Tom Cruise in 'Days of Thunder', ie: I hit everything!! After a few sessions, I got the hang of the track, but still kept on bashing into the walls, which eventually killed my car, the drive shaft/dogbone thingys wouldn't stay in, so wheels wouldn't spin, etc... Eventually sold as Spares and gave up the idea... However, am back on the case again, and want to build my own, and learn from the ground up, so would appreciate some help here please :) I set myself a budget of upto £300, to build a car which I will use outdoor (dry), and hopefully race indoors on carpet with other RC peeps (against other slow drivers!) I like the look of other cars I see which have the blue hop-up parts, that also makes me think the hop-up parts are a bit stronger, so in terms of novices like me, can take a bashing when on a track (well, a bit better than normal parts!)... So ideally, I was looking to buy a few hop-up parts which strengthen the wheel area for when hitting walls.... However, I wouldn't know where to start with which bag of bits to buy ? My shopping list currently: TT-01E - Nissan GTR Shell - comes with std Silver can and a TEU-104BK ESC = £126 Turnigy GTX3 2.4gz controller/Receiver = £40 (I assume it will work with any Tamiya ESC ??) or cheapo alternative is a 'FLY SKY FS-GT2' control/rece for £19 Ansmann Racing EX-High Speed Servo AR-700BB = £17.24 / or High Torque AR-710BB , same price.... wouldn't know which to choose... Charger I like the look of is a x2 battery charger - Fusion NX82 = £28 (and a few batteries which are 3000 or higher) That list is basic, but enough to get me started in building something that would run... Guess I would need Paint, Tamiya toolkit and possibly a cutter if shell not already cut? But............. These are the other things I looked at which I like.. TEU-105BK ESC = £23 Sport Tuned motor = £19 / Tamiya GT-Tuned motor = £25 / Tamiya SuperStock RZ motor = £36 And this: this is what I think would be a good idea............... Tamiya TT-01R KIT, comes with a Tamiya Lightly Tuned Motor (28T), motor alone is worth £26. Description for the TT01R says it comes with Hop-up parts already, but as a kit, will cost £125 + servo + TEU-105BK controller + 1/10 Shell + controller/recei.... Am I way out ? or on the right track, the TT01R makes me think its a fast car already and has super duper bits to it, but that could just be me reading it wrong? cheers guys...