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Found 14 results

  1. Looking for this final detail for my 49400 kit (finding hop ups has been a time consuming quest). Primarily looking for NIP but can consider used if shelfer/mint condition. Thanks Anders
  2. Hello Gents. I'm in the process of getting back into RC after many years of being away. I have acquired a TA-03r as well as a TA-05 v1. I will be using these for casual club racing nothing utra competitive. My question is which one to rebuild and race? It would seem to me that the TA-05 would be the obvious choice however it appears that parts are much scarcer for this chassis (still haven't found belts) on the other hand there are more TA-03 parts out there on Ebay for example. They both appear to be for the most part stock and in good condition, nothing loose and they drive well. I'm just looking for some input from the experts. Thanks in advance.
  3. I'm a little bit obsessed with the 934 RSR shell, I personally think it's Tamiya's most beautiful. I loved building my 40th Anniversary TA02SW, and got a bit blue about the fact I got into this hobby about 20 years too late to have got the 30th Anniversary release! And then, a couple of months ago, I found one! It was built, but an immaculate unused shelf queen. It had never even had a motor or servo installed in it, just a dry kit build First job was to dismantle it and check everything was there; happily everything is present, down to the last 3mm spacer It also came with a few hop ups either built in or in the box, which I've removed and bagged up separately: Front spool, Centre One Way, Gold Aluminium Diff Joint Servo mounts, servo horn, servo cap: Battery plate, stabilizers and stoppers, blue drive belts, blue diff joints: I've sold the original kit diff joints and the painted body shell. The gold aluminium hop up diff joint is up for sale, and at first glance it looks like the blue drive belts are too long so they'll probably go too. The original kit wheels and tyres are also having to go (a different, long story). This is going to be a full runner, with a different livery, different wheels and tyres, blue aluminium diff joints and front and rear stabilisers. I'm not going to do too much else with it, so this won't hold much interest for the off-piste mod-heads out there. But if you're into blue bling, this will be right up your street! I think it will be more of a reverential, step-by-step build of what is probably one of the most iconic kits Tamiya has ever made. Just without a big green frog of a shell on it at the end
  4. Hi there. i am trying to locate some discontinued parts. Tamiyaclub I need your assistance. tamiya cup rules in my area state no aftermarket components can be used, I want to run my TA05 IFS-R, but it has 3racing bulkheads. I’d like to replace them with tamiya. I’ve found the ifs bulkhead that doesn’t have the shock tower placement. Now to find a ta05 bulkhead for the rear. part numbers: 54019 ifs 53990 ver.1 thank you!
  5. Please excuse my ramblings, not really much of a project this, more of a conversion / modification of taking a TA05-R and adding IFS (Inboard Front Suspension). The Backstory: Take yourselves all the way back to 2007 (yes, it really was 13 years ago) in April the TA05-R was announced. At the time, I was working at Time Tunnel Models part time and attending college, also learning to drive 1:1 cars. My hobby was 1:10 drifting, which went from my first Tamiya; the TL01 Castrol Tom's Supra 2000 (58264) fitted with drift tyres, then quickly into a TT01D Subaru Impreza (58349). After attending a couple of events I quickly realised that I was way out of my depth. This was long before the days of CS (Counter-steer) and RWD drifting, so 4WD with a nose-heavy weight distribution was key to success. I remember there were competitors with Yokomo Drift Chassis, HPI RS4 (?), TA04s etc. But the most competitive one of all was the mighty TA03F. This front-motor 4WD layout made drifting on the control tyre (Yokomo Drift Rings) incredibly easy, like child's play. I did what anyone would do in this scenario and built my own TA03F, since these were no longer a newly-available kit* I had to buy a chassis from eBay and add the hop ups I needed to make a veritable Dori-dori machine! *You could buy the TA03F Drift Spec 49377, but this was difficult to come by in the UK and barely any were imported I sank a fortune into this chassis and I still own it to this day, although I did rebuilt it with all new parts in 2013, project thread link here > CLICK < (Sadly all the images are hosted on photobucket) What's funny about the TA03 is that they breed when you're not looking: (Sadly, many of these are now sold ) What I could never have seen coming however was that over the winter whilst building this TA03F the UK RC Drift organisers decided to outlaw the chassis because it was unfair on everyone else (I'm not bitter...) So instead of throw away the whole season or soldier on with my TT01D I decided to sink even more money into a TA05-R chassis 49418: To-date it was the most expensive kit I'd owned, even with a nice discount for working at the shop at the time. I ran the car box-stock at my first event and placed 2nd. The TA05-R was a very balanced machine, particularly good at long sweeping curves and transitions (when you drift from one angle to the next). I then added some tasty hop-ups as can be seen here: I added: Aluminium motor mount Aluminium stabiliser holders (F&R) Ltd edition Transparent blue bulkhead supports Carbon fibre front and rear suspension towers Blue carbon battery retaining brace Front one-way differential You can also see the car is still fitted with the control motor (Yokomo 19T) and period Novak XRS ESC. My interest in the hobby waned a bit after this. I had a fleeting romance with a TA05-MS chassis (which I sold un-built, for a sum I really don't want to talk about! ). Instead my interests became driving my 1:1 car, girls and alcohol. In that order generally! So what to do with it now? First thing I did was photograph it to sell: But I couldn't bring myself to sell it. It's still the highest performance chassis I have and I just like owning it. I'm fascinated by the whole push-rod suspension of the F201 chassis and upcoming TC-01, and I'm unlikely to be able to afford one of either of those in the short-term, so a very late night WhatsApp conversation with @svenb which went something like; "What parts do I need to convert my TA05 to IFS?" Shortly after this ended up as me placing an order for some parts! Clearly not all of those parts are for my TA05...
  6. Hi All, Having a clear out and have the random following parts for sale. They are all new and in sealed packs. Below prices include postage to UK and money sent via PayPal friends and family. Happy to post elsewhere for additional cost. Tamiya TA06 Cross Shaft 54331 - £7 Tamiya TB04 Aluminum Cup Joints 54543 - £11 Tamiya Touring Car Wing 54458 - £6.75 Tamiya TT-02 Type-S Aluminum Upper Arm Mount 54652 - £12 TB-03 Aluminum Suspension Mount (1D) 54072 - £8.50 4mm Aluminum Flange Lock Nuts 53024 - £10.50 Please let me know if interested. Mark
  7. Hi! looking to sell my TA05IFS as I cant justifiy to my wife more then 1 touring car. So looking to trade it for a DN01 offroad buggy to keep the balance between my onroad-offroad vehicles. the TA05 IFS comes with box, boxart Advan Vemac 408R body and a LRP Mercedes C class DTM body. 1xset of tamiya slick, 1xset of LRP VTEC slicks TA05IFS RTR with silver can, TEU101 esc, and tamiya 27mhz radio gear. Servo also included. a few aluminum upgrades like steering, carbon center plate, carbon rear shock tower, all 4 shocks adjustubale, and a few more upgrades... also as for spare parts the new owner will get new belts, new diff spurs and pinions... stabilisers fron and rear, CVA touring car shocks and more.... my asking price is 199€ including shipping. Can be bought with batteries. a LRP 5000mAh Ni-Mh for Tamiyaclub members free! it is also listed on ebay.
  8. Hey! Not many here may be into drifting, but since I my my old RC Drift forum obviously broke down the day I wanted to upload this, here we go. This car started out life as a run-of-the-mill TA-05. I purchased it several years ago, with the idea of converting it to CS. (Making the rear wheels turn faster, recreating a RWD car that requires you to countersteer constantly, instead of steering into a corner, with a 4WD car.) Long story short, it was one hacked together dumpster fire of a chassis and never saw action. Then RWD came around, and I decided to go for it. And once again, I couldn't get something sensible out of it, and it sat on my shelf, unfinished. Last year, I brought it back from project badword, and ordered a bunch of shiny aluminum parts. I used my newfound kwonledge to design custom chassis plates, which I had lasercut by a local company, and created this bespoke car. It took some tinkering to get it to it's current state, which I finally deem presentable. The transparent blue Special edition parts are my main reason for not going with another conversion kit. Combined with blue alloy and pink hardware it makes for a really unique eyecatcher. The cut-out logo is inspired by the fijon TA-05 Kit, which was one of the first conversion kits I looked into, and another reason why I couldn't settle for anything else. If you wonder what "Rubik's Cube!" is supposed to mean, I made it up as a team name, when my brother was still into RC. I love old school japanese team names, like Magician or Mind Control, that have no obvious relation to cars. And while listening to "Abracadabra" under the shower, I had the idea for "Rubik's Cube!". It's retro, a toy, a mystery, and spells out RC when abbreviated. Bingo. The battery is raised for increased weight shift(It can also be mounted in the stock position), and the steering now uses Eagle racing TA-05 VDF parts with stock TA-05 mounting points. Therefore, the front bulkhead had to be replaced with this mashup of parts, that allows the steering arms to move inside of it. The rear suspension has been replaced with EA Streetjam R31 style TA-05 parts. Also, there's no droop limit and the TRF dampers have been bored up to 1.5mm holes. 13,5T Hobbywing JuStock brushless combo Futaba 9450 servo Sanwa MX-V transmitter and receiver SkyRC gyro
  9. So long ago when this chassis was new, I bought one with the intention of taking on the Yokomo Drift Package guys. About this time however, I turned 17 - girls and obtaining my drivers license suddenly became more of a priority! So after a single round (I placed 2nd!) This was put back in it's box and hasn't seen the light of day since. (I also bought a TA05MS but sold that to pay rent ) Aside from the lovely kit offerings this sports some Ltd edition clear plastic parts, aluminium motor mount / plate, carbon shock towers and a couple of other things. As the only round this car did was on carpet, the underside is virtually unmarked. I changed all the turnbuckles to the harder DF02 steel type as the kit ones are way too soft and easily marked. The set up is un-changed too- this has the Yokomo control tyres, 19T Drift motor and a Novak XRS ESC. It's quite obvious by the length of those wires I didn't have a soldering iron back then either Thing is; I don't really know what to do with it. Is it worth much in this state? (Minus the dust!) We are now up to the TA07 - parts are becoming harder to come by for this ageing beast. It has little sentimental value either (at least compared to my TA03 affliction!).
  10. After my heavily modified Tamiya TA05 had sat on the shelf for many years I finally got around to racing it. The Dudley winter series is indoors on carpet and is 21.5 blinky. Slick tyres. My TA05 had never turned a wheel in my hands so I had no idea what to expect or how to drive it ( I an a buggy racer ) A steep learning curve it was !
  11. HI guys, I have recently bought a used TA05 Raybrig NSX and it came with a 18T pinion and the stock 70T Spur gear. I believe the 70T spur is Tamiya 0.6 Mod pitch? I ideally would like to change to 64DP or 48DP gears. I currently have the kit 70T 0.6 Mod spur with an included 18T pinion which I can only assume is a 0.6 Mod pinion as I had no stripped gears or horrible sounds last night. 70/18 = 3.88 x 2.25 = 8.75 FDR which was just a tiny bit slower than I wanted on our tight carpet track. I'm running the stock Tamiya Sport Tuned Motor. I am familiar with gearing to get speed/acceleration but need some help choosing a combination of spur and pinion to get the FDR of 8.5 and lower if needed. The reason I ask is because I tried my 48DP 69T Spur with a 19T pinion and I couldn't get them to mesh, I needed a bigger spur or pinion (Or both!) Could anyone point in me tried and tested gearing as far as it will mesh up OK? I have seen the 105T 64DP spur mention a lot, but would 27T through to 30T pinions mesh up OK? This would give me a FDR of 8.7 to 7.8.
  12. Hey all. The inner mad scientist in me is brewing. I have a crazy idea for a build. get this, a TRF201 Based, Mid-rear motor RWD Drift car. After seeing many builds in regards to people doing RWD conversions on TA05s and Yokomo DIBs, with their motors being shifted to the rear-end, i thought... "Wait, wouldn't it be just as easy to use a Buggy transmission back there?" After chatting with a few of my buddies down at the local club, The idea stuck. I decided to tear down my TRF201, and get to measuring holes and mounting points for suspension, to make a one-of-a-kind RWD Drifter like no other... Based upon a buggy transmission! There are a few questions i have though. 1: In regards to the Transmission, i see the TRF201 shares a lot with the FF03, TA06 and the XV01's front transmission. Now, i'd love to know if the top shaft from the FF03 is cross-compatible with the TRF201. Why you ask? Well, a locked upper shaft would be fantastic for this build, since the TRF201 uses a slipper clutch, which to be honest, won't suit the purposes of drifting all too well. I know the DN01 doesn't come with a slipper, so if the DN01 and FF03 share a common top shaft, it'll mean my options for gear drive (or in this case, belt drive, using the VENOM belt drive gearing) could very well be possible, since the FF03 uses a standardised gear mount, which the VENOM belt drive requires to fit. 2: Is there a solid spool that'll suit the TRF201/TA06/XV01 Front trans that'll drop into the TRF201's transmission? 3: Do you guys have a good source for small cuts of Aluminium sheeting that'll post to Australia? 3mm preferrably. I have a supplier of CF sheeting which'll do cuts of any carbon fiber parts, but only in large quantities (10 or more), in 3K twill, 3mm thick. If this turns out successful, I may very well figure out a way to sell these things as proper kits. The things i do know are this: 1: The wheelbase must be 235mm long to match the TA05VDF's wheelbase, and the wheelbase of standard 1/10 TC bodies. 2: Due to the lack of rear traction, weight bias needs to be shifted towards the back, or closer to the middle. 3: It must be able to take a standard LiPo, and all electronics needed to operate a car. 4: It must contain mostly Tamiya parts.
  13. For Sale :- Tamiya TA05 ifs R with hop ups This is a high spec kit with lots of extra hop ups put on by me. For all details please PM me. £150 posted in the UK.
  14. I made an impulsive buy today. After i was working on my TA04 earlier this week, i realised that i could use another on-road as the TA04 is now at TRF level and i really can't get myself to driver it anymore so when i bumped into a TA05 V2 at a very sweet price, i just bought it. Fact is though, i don't know anything about the TA05 V2 so i am counting on TC members to give me the full briefing on this chassis. Go ahead and bring it on...
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