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Found 27 results

  1. [Thread moved to The Builds in April 2018 due to ongoing mods] Here's my Thunder Dragon, which although some parts date back to when I first got it 1988 (it was my first proper RC car), it's a bit of a Trigger's Broom, in that most of the plastic parts have been wrecked and replaced over time. New tub, new rear gearbox casings, new A5 (several times!! Now reinforced with a steel front section off ebay), new wishbones. Last year I decided to do a bit of a restomod on it: The original CVA dampers were leaking and just not in a good place, so got some Absima alloy body shocks which work well with the car for bashing about. At this point I also managed to pick up some Terra Scorcher wide shock mounts as I read these were better than the narrow original style. Rear ones work a treat, but fronts not only foul the body of my Thunder Dragon, they flexed like mad! So, inspired by Pintopower/AMPRO Engineering, I measured everything up and got a beefed up, wide stance front shock mount designed up and 3D printed at Shapeways. It's a bit hard to see in the photo, but it's a deep i-beam section which puts the uprights outside the TD body and allowed me to mount 62mm mini shocks on the outer most hole of the front wishbones. Due to the scarcity/price/performance of the original wheels, I did a 12mm hex/2.2" modern wheel conversion. I think these black 6 spokes look really nice on the car. Full bearing inside and out, a modern ESC and 21t brushed motor and 13t steel pinion from Modelsport here in the UK (where I get most of my RC stuff actually). Still running original ACOMS receiver and steering servo, although after tonight's run and my newly acquired knowledge from on here, I think a better servo saver would be good. Most recent upgrade was the rear Terra Scorcher anti roll bar. Absolutely transformed the handling of the car. I've removed the front bar now too as the wide stance mounts and new shocks hold it up nicely. It's now bordering on oversteery on turn in, and I grip rolled it tonight too which I never did before! If you have a Thundershot chassis car GET the rear anti roll bar. As you can see it's a bit rough, but it's a runner and I love it. It has all the upgrades I wanted to buy when I was 13 but couldn't afford! I would really like a new shell I could paint properly, but they're insane money now and I don't like any of the other TS chassis shells. Thunder Dragon has always been the one for me. Would love to know what you think, and if you have any suggestions for any more hop ups. I have brand new front gear casings on the A-sprue I bought to get the rears, so might refresh those as they're prone to cracking on the suspension mounts. Now I've been running a 3300kV brushless setup in my Grasshopper 3 I'm getting a bit tempted to go mad and get a GoolRC 3800kV brushless kit for this!
  2. Spent a very enjoyable 3 months building and developing the setup on my DT03 but this car being brushless and pretty quick lead to the Thunder Dragon feeling a bit unloved. When a cheap Chinese hobbywing 120a esc copy popped up on eBay for £11 I figured it was cheap enough that I had pretty much nothing to lose. Although proper vintage (I have had the car since 1989. Got it for my 13th birthday) it's always been a runner and it's had quite a few improvements and modernisation already so brushless seemed like a good step. I had an Mtroniks rv20 esc and 21t x 2 brushed setup before which was great when it was replacing the MSC and silver can but even the tble-02 in my DT03 is much easier to handle and more responsive to braking and neutral throttle programming. I had also found the Thunder Dragon just a bit dull to drive because with 4WD and modern 2.2" wheels and tyres it was easily able to handle 21t and was just a bit easy to drive. Contrast to constantly chasing the setup on my DT03 and how much better it was making me drive because I couldn't just open the throttle and hold it there like on the TD it was time to pep up the old timer and make it a bit more of a handful!! I picked a Speed Passion 10.5t 3800kV motor on eBay but with this esc have options for lower. Firstly had to rearrange the tub. The rv20 is tiny and just slid in the vacant MSC servo slot on its side. The new esc complete with fan needed to sit on the MSC plate but that attachment bosses needed filing off first. Brushed setup stripped out MSC mounting plate. One boss has been removed previously but I can't remember why! The boss nearest the camera needs to come off to make a flat mount space for the esc And it's gone The other thing I figured out to tidy up the packaging a little was my ACOMS Rx slots into the old servo slot vacated by the previous esc, but the old servo bosses needed filing off. This gives the mounting plate more support and hold the Rx nice and snug Before After Rx moved and plate reinstalled This was my first effort at soldering leads. The removable plugs on the speed passion motor made this a breeze. My big problem came because the cheapness of my esc played out when the battery leads just fell off in my hand from a nice random crimp/nearly cut through section on the leads about 4cm from the esc. I desoldered the connections and removed the stubs and went about soldering the battery leads with the plug back on. This was a complete pain and such a fight! Soldering to esc terminals is hard! Anyway, finally just about got it sorted. I was worried about mucking it up so didn't trim the wires before soldering so not the neatest installation but a tie wrap to the body post sorts that. Waiting on some more double sided sticky pads from Modelsport to complete the mounting but a tie wrap got me up and running. The power switching isn't compatible with the under chassis slot so I stuck it on top of the tube where the resistor used to be so I can reach through the hole in the body to get it. I have the Deans convertor because I run Nimh batteries and all my stuff is tamiya plug. If someone can persuade me that soldering deans plugs is as easy as my motor connections were I might convert all my stuff to Deans. Took it for a run on gravel and in the woods and played with the program card (hobbywing card works). 14t pinion and it's quick and fun and I now need to sort the dampers and handling out because it's pretty feisty. Just what I wanted. Cheers
  3. Hello, please could anyone help, I’m after some advice on replacing the wheels on my very old QD thunder dragon? I’m looking to go brushless but the rear wheels are seriously tired. Any suggestions would be amazing. I have bought some 60D rally block tyres which I would like to still use if possible? I’m new to this and doing the build for my daughter she is 6. Thanks
  4. MCI Window Mask for ThunderDragon, 99p plus post plus PayPal fee if you want G & S. Happy to use F & F but your choice, same on post- will post how you want as your paying. 99p is really to cover my time packing it. Will sandwich in cardboard so it will be a large letter. UK based.
  5. Since i switched to lipo i have been more and more concerned about about how gunged up the balance plug gets when running on grass. Also the chassis just still gets filled up with grass and rubbish through the battery hole in the tub. So i designed an enclosed battery holder inspired by the M chassis idea of cups held by a top plate. These are the first prototypes. It is shaped to seal against the tub as far as possible. There is still a small gap but hopefully will be a vast improvement over the original setup. I can always add some sticky foam to help close up the gaps if needs be. Top plates fit over the stock bosses ob the tub and the same screws that hold the kit battery cage on hold these down. Both sides installed. The holders are held in place with body clips on posts just like the M chassis. The battery plug feeds through but there is enough space to stash the balance lead inside the cup keeping it nice and clean. These are down in PLA from a Treatstock vendor making them cheap enough to try. I uploaded them to Shapeways and thry would cost about 50 dollars! Not sure i want a clean battery that much!
  6. Getting on here and chatting about my Thunder Dragon has got me wondering about whether it's possible to strip the paint. It's a pretty tatty job done by my 15 year old self, but new TD bodies are rare and super expensive. I wondered if there are a sure fire safe way of getting the old paint off without damaging the body so I could have a proper go?
  7. Hello, A buggy I bought to restore happens not only to have no oil in the shocks BUT no friction parts, so I need the guts that form the seals on the bottom of the main damperbodies as well as the caps for the top. I need two mini sets and 2 standard sets, as would be on any of the cars tagged. Fire Dragon, Terra Scorcher, Manta Ray. I doubt it matters but they are the more modern type with the base that can slid off if you pull up the spring and the screw to adjust the spring length rather than the clip in yellow parts. I know there are some small yellow rings and O rings in there normally. If anyone know of a part bag that has all I need in it can you post a link please? I am in UK. Thanks in advance, Andrew
  8. About a year ago I got bored (as most with this chassis do) of breaking A5 parts. So designed a Super A5! Much, much longer pin engagement, and reinforces. I have been it ever since including some big impacts that have written off a tub. Still solid. It is now available on my Shapeways store CTE RC. https://www.shapeways.com/product/P83N8YZSM/tamiya-thundershot-dragon-super-a5?optionId=64599056 Here's the Super A5 next to the original. Taking advantage of the 58.5mm long M05 suspension shafts to extend and increased the wall thickness on the suspension mounting. And all installed. Need m3 x 20 machine screws to replace the original mounting screws. All back together and body on A5 parts have become very very expensive and the aluminium replacements are over £30 with shipping. This is quite a lot less than that, and as a bonus is available in loads of colours. Hope you like it. Cheers!
  9. Hi all. I'm after a vintage Thunder Shot motor mount. Needs to be a darker coloured one. Preferably new or minimal wear. Please let me know if you can help. Can swap for a new stainless one if that helps. Thanks in advance.
  10. Read about the 4wd race cars having caster blocks. Then I found an article on Jamie Booth's Manta Ray which had custom caster adding c hubs to stop it being "twitch city". Got me curious so I modelled up some 10 deg caster c hubs to fit my Thunder Dragon. They arrived today and look great. More when I get them fitted and what difference they make to the handling.
  11. I'd like to fit some black Thundershot style wheels and tyres on my Avante project, but could use some advice. This is just for a shelfer, but I'd like to it could run if needed. I don't want to cripple it. I bought a pair of the Thundershot rims to test the fitment. At the back, things are OK, but there are very close to rubbing on the screws that connect to the uprights. They are a bit wider than Avante wheels, and have a significantly smaller diameter too. I think with a thing spacer in there, they will do. The problems are at the front. Here, they really do rub the screws, and the steering can't turn properly. There is not enough thread on the wheel axles to space them out enough for it to work. Once they steer, i think they'll just hit the screws again any way So on the front, I considered whether I could cut the wheel itself down to a narrower width, inspired by @TomEG's awesome thread about his Avante XL project. This throw up a few issues. Will it be enough for a comfy fit? How on earth do I cut the wheel effectively (In @TomEG's example, he says it was simple. Maybe I'm a bit simple, too . Finally, and I think maybe this is the really tough bit. If I trim the wheels down, is there a tyre out there than might still fit? Interested to know if anyone thinks this sound plausible, or if I should give up the dream. I lined up the rims on top of my current wheels and, with one eye closed to help me blur reality into fiction, they looked sweeeeet! Even better, someone tell me I'm being dumb and there is a narrow front wheel and tyre version of this awesome design! Appreciate your thoughts.
  12. Hi all, I'm after a new or nearly new Thunder Shot motor mount. The part number is 4305219. I purchased a new one but it's shiny silver rather than the darker colour that they used to be and it's the darker colour I'm after. Happy to swap my new if you're interested. Please let me know if you can help. Typical I missed out on one on eBay a couple of weeks ago.
  13. Hi all, I'm after screw bag A part number 9465266 for my Thunder Dragon restoration. Turns out I needed a lot more parts for my project than I initially thought Amount I've spent I should have bought a complete one. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks in advance.
  14. Hi all, I am in need of 2 lots of Thundershot Joint Cup set (50335). They need to be new or nearly new. If you have only 1 set, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
  15. Hi all, I'm after 2 pairs of joint diff cups. Part numbers are 2595040 (long gearbox joint) and 2595041 (short gearbox joint) for the thunder shot. They are the grey/black coloured ones, not the more recent polished ones. I'm after new or hardly used. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks in advance.
  16. Hi all, Me again I am after a brand new or hardly used C parts tree for a vintage Thundershot. The part number is 9005256. I am specifically after parts C1 and C3. They need to look like the 2 on the left of the attached picture. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks in advance.
  17. Hi all. I've just acquired some vintage thunder shot parts and they are in fantastic condition. I would like to make a shelf queen but upgrade the plastic 'bearings' to full ball bearings. The part number for the set is 50241 and was for the hotshot. Please could you let me know if you have anything that can help or point me in the direction to where I might be able to find a set. I'm happy to hunt down individual bearings but I don't the the part numbers or specs on them so if this is something you can provide instead I would be grateful. Thanks in advance.
  18. This didn't really warrant putting in the build thread as it's too small a mod, but I thought I would share it Made this: To fit in my thundershot to mount the ESC on for a brushless system. I already had a small piece of carbon fibre mounted in it to act as a mount plate where the MSC used to be, but the speedo was too tall to fit on there, and the 2.4GHz Rx aerial was too short to reach the aerial tube. So I fitted the aluminium plate in, I used a thick plate so I could recess the screws used to attach the support pillars, and drilled 2 holes in the bottom of the chassis (In the recessed portions to protect the screws) and was then able to fit the ESC neatly onto the plate I'd made, the ESC is lower than on the carbon plate, and leaves plenty of clearance between the bodyshell and the ESC fan for airflow. The ESC is an HobbyWing EzRun 80 amp unit, and the motor is an EzRun 2 pole 4000Kv motor.
  19. So I'm sitting here a bit bored at Taipei airport waiting for my flight home wondering idly about a new design project. I've noticed that top end 4WD racers have caster angle built into the c hubs to add to the kick up at the front of the buggy. Added to this as I've been filling my evenings this week whilst here on business, I found an article on Jamie Booths Manta Ray from 1991 and he says one of the biggest things he did was get some extra caster added to the custom c hubs he had made. I have a Thunder Dragon and a Terra Conqueror DF01 now, and I think fairly easily I could do caster c-hubs for them via Shapeways. I just have no idea how much to add. My DT03 has 25 deg, but I haven't seen that much on 4WD for some reason. Anyone got any ideas? Looks like both my buggies have something around 10 deg kick up, so should I be trying to add 5 deg? 10 deg? 15 deg? All help, hand waving, wild speculation greatly appreciated. Cheers!
  20. Hi all. I've managed to acquire an original shell in very good condition and would like to do box art on my Thunder Dragon but struggling to find the chassis cover. The part number is 1835050. I'm after vintage new preferably or used but unpainted. Please let me know if you can help. Edit: Just ordered one from modelsport. Hopefully they can order in and fulfil.
  21. Hi all. I have a spare original vintage set of Thunder Dragon decals/stickers. Part number 9495092. They are as new and sealed. Would like £25 PayPal gift which would include postage to UK. Postage might be more if any overseas buyers are interested I can find out.
  22. Got the stiffest DF03 springs on the rear cva on my Thunder Dragon. 2 hole pistons and 34wt/400 cost oil. Still a bit bouncy at the back as I use 8.4 nimh and it's an old buggy. Heavy old boat! Anyone know what rate DF03 setting springs are so I can buy something stiffer. I noticed on a bigwig setup post today using 40wt rear/45wt front which would be 5wt up both ends on where I am now. Original Thunder Dragon springs are way stiffer due to being angled right in to the shock tower. I have the terra scorcher tower. Also I rather stupidly cut my original springs to try and fit them absima dampers so I can't put them back on. Don't suppose anyone has any spare original 80s stiff cva short shock springs lying around? Help and advice much appreciated!
  23. Just received the Super A5 part I designed and got name up at Shapeways. Just testing at the moment. Hope you like the idea. You need the M05 shaft set 54613 to replace the lower wishbone screw pins with the 58.5mm shafts. I took advantage of the length of the shafts to increase the length of the A5 interface and I also increased the diameter from 4 to 5mm. Hopefully much stronger. We shall see! Original A5 with shafts already fitted Super A5 next to original part All fitted. I needed m3 x 20 machine screws to fit them. Just enough shaft showing to fit the e clips. All fitted along with my tweaked front shock mount to clear the Thunder Dragon body with 70mm shocks And with everything back together.
  24. Got absima shocks on the Thunder Dragon. Stocks springs are too soft but they are 55mm long on the 85mm shocks, which frustratingly is 5mm shorter than the tamiya hop up springs and even the original cva springs. Fastrax red springs don't seem a lot stiffer than the stock absima springs. Anyone got any ideas on 55mm springs (Losi, team associated?) before I just buy some cvas I can put my DF03 springs on? The original cva springs seem way stiffer than the absima springs.
  25. I've just been been upgrading a few parts on my TD and noticed that I've managed to crack my A3 Part at some point. I've only just purchased a new tree of A parts (which is the cracked A3) and want to avoid buying the whole lot again. Does anyone have just a new A3 Part spare they would be willing to part with please? Happy to pay something for it. Thanks in advance
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