Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Vintage'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Tamiyaclub.com Forums
    • General discussions
    • Vintage Tamiya Discussion
    • Re-Release Discussions
    • Tamiyaclub News
    • Tamiyaclub Rules and Site Usage
    • Build Tips and Techniques
    • Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
    • Big Rigs and Scale Armour
    • All things RC Nitro
    • The Builds
    • TC Designs...
    • All things electric...
    • RC Racing Talk
    • Meetings & Events
    • Sales, trades & wanted
    • Off-Site sales plugs, tips & gossip - Including eBay, Gumtree etc.
    • Related sites
    • Suspicious Traders
  • Tamiyaclub Sponsors Forum
    • FusionHobbies.com
    • Stellamodels
    • Time Tunnel Models
    • Tamico.de
  • Other makes of RC model...
    • Kyosho
    • Marui
    • Nikko
    • Other makes
  • tcPhotos.com
    • About tcPhotos.com
  • The Outside World
    • Anything not RC related goes here

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


TC Subscriber

Found 144 results

  1. Yes another toy grade conversion, or perhaps semi hobby grade conversion. A few weeks ago I picked up an interesting looking buggy on Ebay, a Radio Shack Black Wolf. From a first glance it looked very similar to the Nikko F10 chassis, which has a fair few fans here and is itself very similar to the Grasshopper. The cars are 540 powered, take a 7.2v pack and are fully proportional, so are pretty nice from the off, but can be improved with some tweaking. The car also came with a spare gearbox, body, tires and a few other parts, enough to potentially make two cars using some spares I had. I wanted to make something for my Nephew, so for £30 it seemed like a good deal. I When the car arrived it became apparent that although it was based on the F10 they were not made with the exact same moulds. Nikko and Taiyo produced many cars for Radio Shack and Tandy. Some of the cars are exactly the same, perhaps with a different body or stickers, but others like this one are very close, but not identical. However the Black Wolf and F10 are close enough that I should be able to swap parts from one to another without too much issue. So, on to the build: I started with the gearbox first. The good thing about these cars is that they take modern ball bearings, so I was able to replace all the nylon bushings with proper ball bearings, including inside the gearbox. The car takes 11x5x4 and 10x5x4 bearings, and they really make a difference compared to 30 year old bushings! I then replaced the old motor with a 540 Silver Can - the Tamiya pinions attached to them were identical, so that was a plus too. Looking at the gearbox I noticed some damage. There is a tab that stops the gearbox rotating too far back, either on acceleration or when the car leaves the ground. The shocks on this car are simple springs and work under compression, but simply pop open under tension offering no resistance. This means every time the car jumps or accelerates this tab bangs hard against the back of the chassis. This was clearly a serious design flaw as both tabs were cracked and lifting up, allowing dirt into the gearbox as well as failing to really work. I tried to glue them, but a glued plastic part is rarely as strong, and kept on popping off so I gave up. I then decided to glue again, clamp for ages and then trim off the tab completely You can see here where the tab was on the left hand side of the the pivot. I've tried to hide it, but can only do so much. The main thing is it is sealed. So, this was all fixed, but now when you lift up the car the rear end falls out and the springs pop out. A simple solution involved using an oven hob to get the rear springs hot. These were then pushed into the red cups, partially melting them and making a very strong bond. This means the springs are now attached to both ends, meaning they can work under tension too. Now the rear end is attached to the car, even if you pick it up. Next step, onto the electronics...
  2. For sale is a set of 90’s moosgummi tirea from the manufacturer GRP model EVI04E 40 shore, 12mm hex, very little use, vintage. With package. 30€ with shipping. open for offers. Will swap for M chassis Slicks 60D.
  3. Hello to everybody, Happy New year and best wishes in RC. Link of my topic : TAMIYA Humvee M1025 : French Hummer as Crawler I'm Charles from North of France, (near Belgium border). I don't know if i need to make a presentation but i will explain here why I'm here. I'm from 1986, and around 10/11 years old. At Christmas i will ask to santa some Lego Technic big set, and my Brother (8 years older than me), as Tamiya Fan explain to me RC is more Fun. I've listen him, and he found my first model : a Dyna Storm from a windows showase of a closing rc local shop. Already mount with a motor on it. And all start for me about RC ! With years, i've choose to spend some Birthday and Christmas into it. Next model was a KIT Subaru Impreza 97' with the TA03F , so great stuff to mount a model. And i follow with some other "iconic" model : Juggernaut, never heard about the fragile gear ( no internet community ). After a intership as a young dealer assistant into another Rc Shop,i work on holidays and saturdays. I spend lot of money & time in my TA04 Pro chassis, with lot of Hop Up, and good electronic product as Novak and Futaba. I make some race in local club as amateur. That so great to run these model on carpet. Good memories when at the end my model was well setup as easy to drive. Some other model come to my collection, I've bought ( between 2000-2005 ) a 2nd hand Dyna Blaster, to take some spare parts for my Dyna Storm. Finally i discover few parts are common. And after, that i've bought a Dyna Storm NIB, mount it and make it run with caution. ( before crazy price ) After that, i grow up and i spend less time in RC, to continue bigger on 1:1 scale car and need more time to high school and my engineer university (Electricity). Keep all my model at my family house. Now after some ( lot of ) years, my nephew "Ed" have recevied a Tamiya RC Model : Racing Fighter. ( son of my Brother ) and his cousin "Amb." recevied for communion a Neo Fighter. Me and my brother don't resist to buy again 20 years after a Kit ( 2 others Racing Fighter ) to plan to run with children with same models. In parallele I am in the process of rebuild / replace parts and clean. The Clean Dyna Storm became a Shelf queen and my first Dyna Storm still a Runner. I've upgrade my Juggernaut with 2000 gears and bearing with Amb ( he love to mount/dismount model) Bought in may 2020 a TRF414M (my teenager dream) for my Birthday, and planned to run. And now i've start to make on the Dyna Blaster a restoration that he deserved. Thanks to read this presentation. Sincerly yours Charles
  4. The Kyosho Icarus is a 2WD entry-level RC car from the year 1985/1986. It has the same chassis as the Pegasus, Cosmo and Cox Bandido. The original motor is the 360ST, size 550, 22 turns - 22,000 rpm and it has independent suspension on four wheels with oil dampers. This buggy is the version that Graupner distributed in Germany. I bought it disassembled and there were parts that were not from this car: I have the original rims and the new front tires; I don't have the rear tires. There were other front rims and rear rims on the Tamiya Hornet. The chassis was strongly marked by scratches on the bottom but no broken parts. The shock absorbers were new as if they had changed. The most important thing was to have all the transmission parts because they are expensive, hard to find and there are no alternatives. I disassemble the gearbox because there is a strange noise. The gearbox is fine and had a loose bushing. It is cleaned and oiled. The motor pinion has 18 teeth and a 0.8M module. The gearbox has a ratio 18/52 * 18/52 ---> 8.35: 1 The wheel axle is worn in the rolling area. This also occurs in the Cosmo and the Pegasus. TThe previous owner did not do the maintenance and there was no grease in the bushings. It is better to use 10x6 mm flanged ball bearings A new wheel axle is quite expensive and difficult to obtain; I placed a needle roller bearing 10x6 mm and 10 mm wide. The transmission parts have strange measures and shapes and are not compatible with other spare parts: The LeMans 360ST motor has interchangeable brushes but cannot be opened. I put the very fine sandpaper in a screwdriver and put it in the hole of the brushes to polish the collector. I use a drill to turn the rotor. Video: https://youtu.be/sMPhT_h9Wl8 Complete transmission test and measure the motor speed (sound level meter): https://youtu.be/LEozlwM9lzs The chassis is clean and the transmission mounted. The battery is placed by opening a cover under the car The double wishbone front suspension is made up of flexible plastic arms: there is no axle. Suspension clearance is repaired with an o-ring. I made two polyethylene holders for the servo. I did not have the original holders. I have new chrome rims and a rear wheel adapter; I also have new front tires. I mount 4x8x3 bearings in the front wheels. The rear rims are 1.55" size and I can choose between the Tamiya Hornet or Marui tires that I have. I paint the white letters on the tires. I also mounted the ESC and the receiver in the car. The Icarus buggy looks like this: In action (video): https://youtu.be/PN9w7e1kkTs Translated from: https://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2020/03/restauracion-reparacion-de-kyosho-icarus.html (sorry for the translation errors) https://classicrccars.wordpress.com/2021/01/15/kyosho-icarus-restoration/
  5. Howdy Folks, This is the true “barnyard” find. No funny business. So, back in Christmas of 1986, my uncle from Hong Kong mailed me a gift. It was a Tamiya Super Shot “Kit No. 5854**29800” in a box covered in Japanese... and superb artwork. He also sent along with it a KO Propo Expert EX-II Super Steering System, a Tamiya 7.2 Battery and a Tamiya charger. I was too young and stupid to know what I had. I opened it, put the tires on the super cool gold wheels (which still look absolutely brand new...), and attempted to assemble the first steps. I failed utterly in confusion... put all the pieces back into the box, and there they have sat for over thirty years, moving from house to house, closet shelf to closet shelf. And now... it is finally time to find this Super Shot a deserving home, with an enthusiast who can love and appreciate this wonderful toy. The Bad... So, first of all, bear in mind ALL of the parts are 100% unused, in both the Super Shot kit, and with the KO Propo. The box is slightly beat up over the years, with some tape that held it closed on the sides only (but thankfully secured the contents). All of the parts should be there, as I put them on a table, then put them back a day or so later, some of them in ziploc bags (several parts came secured in a plastic bubble blister cover). 90+% of the parts are still in the plastic blisters and little Tamiya/KO Propo bags... I really did not get very far at all. (YES, I have been asked— the “Technipower” motor is there, as well as the original battery, bearings, everything... unused and new from 1986.) The instructions are missing— I can only guess that I had a notion I could study the instructions and figure it out to try building it later (as I did that with the “Expert” Legos sometimes, studied the build first...), and then they likely got lost somewhere in time. The decals also seem to be missing; they are most probably in the instructions. However, I vaguely remember being advised by my cousin to paint the wing from the bottom so it could remain shiny (i.e., it is clear plastic), and I apparently applied decals to the wing in preparation for this. Lastly, several of the KO Propo parts seem to be in the Tamiya box (i.e., there are empty slots in the KO Propo styrofoam, and parts and connectors labeled “KO Propo” inside ziploc bags in the Tamiya box). There are some parts in the KO Propo box that are possibly for the Tamiya... little parts in bags, that a more experienced RC person could properly identify. (As of this writing, the kit is “as-is.” However, there is still some 50/50 chance that I may come across the instructions and decals in another one of dozens of boxes somewhere. If so, I do pledge to provide those to the new owner at my expense.) I do have photographs of this all. I am happy to share them, of course, and happy to answer any questions. I noticed this club is based in the the UK... I am in the United States, in Arizona. I have consulted with a few RC Hobby clubs and stores with regard to what I have, during my few days research of this vintage kit... especially considering the bottom threshold of “being ripped off” or taken advantage of. I understand that collectors want vintage toys to be as perfect and new as possible. As such, I do not expect the premium price of a “mint” pristine boxed example, especially considering the missing instructions and decals. However, I do think it is not unreasonable to expect a fair market value for this item, given the increasing scarcity of such toys. I have a very nice kit here, functionally complete and with much more upside than flaws, particularly for an enthusiast who would like to build the kit, or perhaps complete a collection or have “spares.” And I would greatly prefer that this kit go to a hobbyist who truly appreciates what this is, as opposed to someone who will just flip it for a fast buck because they have better connections in the RC community than a person like me with limited knowledge. So, if you can afford to make a reasonable offer, to enjoy this cool piece of Tamiya history... I’d love to talk to you. Let’s make a deal where this Super Shot finds a happy home. I am trying this route prior to ebay, because I was quite impressed with the enthusiasm and “showroom” collections of the club’s members... so I reckoned someone here would really appreciate this cool Tamiya kit. My name is Mort. I can be reached at “mortcompany” at google’s Gee mail. I am very happy to talk via telephone if you provide a name and number (and maybe a good time to ring). I would be returning the call from a 520 then nine-seven-nine number. I can do pay..pal or Zell..e, and guesstimate about $25 bucks shipping US. I don’t know about international cost, but I am willing to accommodate a serious buyer (and help deal with customs forms). Also, I am happy to provide my bona fides like identification, to ensure an honest and enjoyable transaction for us both. Thank you for looking! As for photos here... “Upload failed.” 🤷🏽‍♂️ “You are only allowed to upload 4.x MB” ...but I didn’t try more than a single 2MB pic. Happy to email them!
  6. Like many other people on the forum and as a child of the 70s and 80s, the past year lockdown has brought about a time to reflect and be nostalgic towards better and happier days. And again like so many, having had a more or less 30+ year gap since the last time I dabbled properly in RC (aside from a short foray with a TL-01 and TA04 Pro around the time of the millennium), the lockdown has provided an opportunity to stay home and turn back the clock with some kit building. I was lucky enough to be into RC at the height of the golden age of Tamiya. But like many here, as a child at the time with relatively meagre pocket money, my purchasing power (after much saving) only extended to a Falcon bought from the long since gone chain of UK model shop Beatties . A classic bundle, the kit came with the useless trickle charger that took forever to charge Tamiya 1200 packs, the ubiquitous ACOMS servos / transmitter / receiver and of course the obligatory Beatties black and yellow RC bag that offered little protection to the prized possession in side. But it was wonderful thing! The Falcon fared as well as you’d expect with broken bathtubs, cracked uprights and lost dog bones – all of which I tried to repair with superglue, sticky tape and things that I found in my father’s shed just to keep it on the road. But, between my friends and I, we were able to swap around amongst us Hornets, Grasshoppers, Superchamps and Frogs – all in various states of disrepair. But, as much time as we spent running our cars, we spent even more time flicking thought the pages of Tamiya guidebooks and longing and lusting after unobtainable and unaffordable hop-ups, Bruisers, Avantes, Astutes and much more. So, having fast forward three decades and now having a bit more pocket money to play with so to speak, when the Tamiya nostalgia kick came I decided that I’d try to set myself a challenge. I decided that I wanted to try to buy and build new kits (NIB or Re-re) that I thought best captured the spirit of Tamiya, and to try to fulfil a few unachieved childhood dreams. I initially set a challenge of picking two cars to buy and build that I thought would kill a little bit of downtime in-between work, family and life. But, thanks to the continuing pandemic lockdown and the fact that I’m now sucked in again to RC as I was when a child, I’m now 4 new build cars in and contemplating a 5th. More of that later….. So, after a 35 year lust from watching the grainy Tamiya promo video of a blue truck spinning around the beach - my first purchase was a Bruiser. As most know who’ve owned and built one, it was a very rewarding exercise. A surprisingly complex process – especially getting the body right - I did wonder what state I would have made of the build as a 10 year old kid. I built it as stock – but on completion decided to venture into the world of brushless and lipos (which is a whole new world to me) and took a punt on a 4300kv motor and 80amp ESC. I should say at this point that I had already decided that anything I build should be fully operational – but - would only ever be shelf queens (a new term I was rapidly learning!). I added a lighting kit from Banggood and spent an age painting and finishing to the best I could and I was pretty pleased with the result. It was at this point that I realised again the importance of the box art and livery. There are just some body shells and paint jobs that are timeless icons of RC. I strongly argue that the Bruiser is one of them and this got me thinking. The liveries of some of Tamiya’s cars are so entrenched in the companies ethos and identity that the two things go hand in hand. Adding to my challenge I decided my car selection should also be representative of the idea of iconic livery. So – this in mind, I resolved that my next build would be a Sandscorcher. You may disagree with this, but in my opinion it is indeed truly an icon. The little blue and white VW I believe was pretty instrumental in kicking off Tamiya popularity in the early 80s. I decided that I wanted to build this classic trying to bring in some subtle modern upgrades and interventions but without ruining the charm and spirit of the original. With my new found knowledge of brushless, I binned the silver can and fitted a Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless (….in a Scorcher….. I know….). To make the job neat, I bought the 3d printed brushless motor end cap from ‘Scorched Parts’, along with their inner fenders and servo saver. Like the Bruiser, I fitted a lighting kit and roof rack (inspired by Bob on his Hobby Concepts Youtube channel). I know there are many out there who customise the Scorcher far more than I, but I like the charm and character of the SRB chassis, the leaky shocks and clear plastic inner shell. Similar as the Bruiser, the metal components and design of the Sandscorcher whilst rudimentary, are beautifully engineered. Keeping the theme of “spirit of Tamiya” and “iconic livery”, my next decision was pretty straightforward - The Lunchbox. I won’t lie – a decision partly influenced by my kids who had been showing an interest in my efforts, it seemed a no brainer to get them involved. To me, the lunchbox is the personification of 80’s Tamiya fun. I remember at the time thinking that it was cooler to have the Falcon than the Lunchie, but secretly perhaps realising it wasn’t. I actually bought two kits – one each for my 11 and 8 year old. You’d be unsurprised to know that building two kits at the same time with two young children who have the attention span of a goldfish, is as stressful as you’d imagine. But, despite a few hiccups here and there (a few screws not in straight, omitted bearings etc…..), the classic yellow van turned out great. As did its twin with Scooby Doo livery. I’ve so far managed to keep the box art car as a shelf queen I’m pleased to say, but it might be that I have to build a third one as a runner…. Anyway, inevitably, the elephant in the classic Tamiya car show room had to be addressed. It couldn’t be put off anymore. My justification of the prolongation of lockdown meant that after 32 years of waiting, Santa finally delivered at Christmas an Avante. I don’t actually think there is much to say about it. No introduction or explanation needed. Spirit of Tamiya? Check. Iconic livery? Check. Possibly the car that most perfectly capture what Tamiya is all about? Maybe. In my mind yes, but you may no doubt think differently. But, I just give a knowing wink to the forum and all those of my similar age, or those who have built and / or owned an Avante. Over engineered and over designed like little else Tamiya has ever done before or since, it didn’t disappoint I have to say and will sit as pride and joy for me to look at. So, by now, my budget is blown. Tamiya has me hooked like a school boy once again but I’ve had to draw a line before I head into an RC money pit abyss. Indeed as I write at the beginning of 2021, the new list of cars due to be released by Tamiya has me flicking through the pre-order websites. But, this is the question to you (assuming you’ve got this far in my story….), given my brief of “Spirit of Tamiya” and “Iconic Livery”, and given the 4 cars I’ve bought and built so far – what would your final 5ht selection be? What new kit / re-re would you suggest I buy to complete my story? But indeed, if you had to pick 5 cars in response to my challenge – what would you go for? I very much look forward to hearing your thoughts and wish you happy building.
  7. Nikko85

    Introduction

    Hi all, Thought I'd introduce myself here. 35 years old, used to play with RC cars as a kid. My brother had the hobby grade stuff, but I had the Nikkos. As lock down started I thought I'd try and find my old cherished RC on Ebay (A 1997 Nikko Spider 3) and that sent me on a rabbit hole of vintage RCs from the era. I've used these forums for lots of searches, so thought I'd contribute as the collection has grown. I'm not really into the more modern stuff - and when I was racing NiCds where the height of tech. What I find really interesting with Nikkos is trying to work out which model is which, which parts are interchangeable, particularly when it comes to Tandy/Radioshack. Hopefully I can post some pictures that someone will find interesting. I'll post some more photos and reviews soon, but I've managed to pick up a Turbo Panther, Mighty Max, F10, Turbo Dasher, Ford Ranger 4x4, Gambler, Black Fox and a Road Express 1/24 18 wheeler. Jeez, I didn't think it was so many, but that's lockdown for you. I've got a few questions: Is it better to make a larger thread with the collection, or a thread for each car with the review (particularly if a thread doesn't exist). I don't want to spam a new-to-me forum with loads of threads, but it can be useful to keep a thread about a rarer car separate. I've also picked up a cheap version of a QD clod (so a budget version of a budget version) which I want to upgrade to modern(ish) proportional stuff. Is there a place in the forum for very green questions about electrics, motors etc? Thanks in advance! Andrew
  8. looking only new in box original releases. Cash in Hand. feel free to pm with photos and your asking prices. Thanks 58045 Tamiya hornet tamiya celica castrol 58129 tamiya celica repsol 58119 tamiya celica 58096 tamiya celica 58064
  9. Hey there, during the Corona-Situation I cleaned up the attic…what I found was my old vintage Tamiya Falcon… It was like staring at a time machine… unfortunately a lot of parts are broken. Now I´m trying to fix the whole thing (just to get the feeling of a happy young boy…😉). It´s been so long...and a lot has change since then. I read about ESC and thought about changing the old speed controller to a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060. What do you guys think? Then I stumbled over Ampro and his engineered 3D improvement parts. That really made my day! Unfortunately one of the dog bones every now and then slips out of the cup. I read about the Thorp Dirt Burners and was on fire right away. Now I´m looking everywhere to get the whole set. I already had the possibility to get the dog bones and the cups, the axles are still missing. Does any of you guys know, where I could get them? I could trade the cups in as I have two sets of cups.... And does anybody know the market price for those (vintage) things? Is there any possibility to use any other axle from another car? Would really appreciate a suggestion... Body shell and decals are the next things on my list. I´m looking forward to hearing from you guys! Thanks in advance and stay safe!
  10. I need to vent for a moment. I've spent way too much time lately looking for 0.8mod pinions for use in Tamiya and Kyosho vintage cars. Seems most manufacturers group 0.8mod with 32p calling them "the same". They are close. Very close in fact, but THEY ARE NOT EXACTLY THE SAME. And when you are talking about mechanical tolerances measured in 0.1mm variances, it makes a difference. You can have PERFECT gear mesh between the pinion and spur, but if they are not the exact same gear pitch, you will have extra noise and extra wear compared to when both gears are the exact same pitch. 32p = 0.7938mod 0.8mod = 31.75p Practically speaking, DOES THIS MATTER? For the most part, no it doesn't. You can use 32p pinions with 0.8mod spurs and not have any trouble. Many, many people will attest to this, including racers that really push their cars. I'm sure there will be replies this post confirming that using 32p with 0.8mod spurs is perfectly fine. But, if you categorize yourself as a perfectionist, anal, or autistic, it will bother you that you are mixing 32p with 0.8mod. It bothers me. I won't say which category I fall into. I wish manufacturers were honest and factual when representing their products. If the pinion is machined as 32p, say so. It if is machined as 0.8mod, say so. Do not say 32p/0.8mod. It is false advertising. The math proves this. It cannot be both at the same time. The machining setup required to grind the gear teeth is different between 32p and 0.8mod. It is one, or the other. From my research it looks like the choices for true 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" shaft motors are few and far between: You can buy the butter-soft Tamiya aluminum stock pinions. Too many to list, but they are cheap at least. But you risk stripping out the spur once the pinion has worn down enough. If you keep track of wear, you can avoid spur damage in most cases. These do not last very long as most of us on this forum know. That's why switching to a steel pinion is one of the most common recommendations to make to someone that asks "I'm about to build ______. What hop-ups should I add to my car?" You can buy the Tamiya steel pinions: Tamiya 54628 Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod Tamiya 54629 Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod But as you can see, there are only 17T and 19T choices. You can buy Kyosho vintage pinions: W-5009 - Hard Pinion 9T 0.8mod W-5010 - Hard Pinion 10T 0.8mod W-5011 - Hard Pinion 11T 0.8mod OT-23 - Aluminum Pinion 12T 0.8mod OT-50 - Aluminum Pinion 13T 0.8mod OT-51 - Aluminum Pinion 14T 0.8mod OT-24 - Aluminum Pinion 15T 0.8mod OT-52 - Aluminum Pinion 16T 0.8mod OT-53 - Aluminum Pinion 17T 0.8mod UM-24 - Aluminum Pinion 19T 0.8mod Since these are vintage, they are usually a bit more expensive and harder to find. And the aluminum ones are butter-soft like Tamiya stock so you don't want them anyway. You can buy the Carson steel pinions: 500013400 - Steel Pinion 10T 0.8mod 500013401 - Steel Pinion 11T 0.8mod 500013403 - Steel Pinion 13T 0.8mod 500013439 - Steel Pinion 14T 0.8mod <--- Yes, part # is correct. 500013404 appears to be some Audi Quattro S1 1/10 scale body. 500013405 - Steel Pinion 15T 0.8mod 500013406 - Steel Pinion 16T 0.8mod 500013407 - Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod 500013408 - Steel Pinion 18T 0.8mod 500013409 - Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod For 5mm motor shafts, Robinson Racing makes some high carbon steel 0.8mod pinions. Their website is broken, so you can't see the part numbers for them and I don't care enough to look it up somewhere else because I don't use 5mm motor shafts. So far I have not been successful in finding any Chinese manufacturers of 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" motor shafts. I've just placed a ridiculous order ($$$) with Tony's Tamiya Parts for Carson 0.8mod pinions because there is literally no other choice, which is rather frustrating. I live in the USA, so Carson is generally not available here except through sellers like Tony's. Thanks for listening to my rant. I feel a little bit better.
  11. Hi guys, I wonder if someone has already set anti-roll bars on Stadium Blitzer. I just bought a DT-03 stabilizer set (54561 / OP-1561). If anybody has information about that, it will appreciated. Thanks ! Take care. Glob356
  12. I’m a big fan of re-release kits, for me it’s being able to get kits I always wanted as a kid but couldn’t afford. Over the last few years Schumacher have entered the market with the Cat XLS & the Topcat. Anyone have an information on the next Schumacher Classic release? Personally i’d like to see the Storm truck, cougar 2, Bosscat or Cat 2000, but there’s a few other kits in the timeline if Schumacher is working in chronological order. Procat or Cougar could be next although to me they are quite similar to the 2 already released. The Shotgun might not be a bad option? I just hope Schumacher continue do the Re-release path so we can get to the kits I mentioned eventually.
  13. This restricted movement period in Malaysia has spawned quite a few builds. The latest of these is the restoration of my very first hobby grade RC - the Tamiya Hotshot. My parents bought this for me in 1986 as a reward for good primary school leaving exam. I was schooling in Singapore those days. Over the years, it has been frankenteined with some supershot parts. Had some You G bits added. Gradually, in my University years in Australia, I lost my way and neglected my RCs. For some reason though, I never got rid of any of them. The Hotshot, among a couple of others, survived the move from Singapore to Perth. Fast forward 34 years later, I have been through a couple of RC phases and now am back to mostly Tamiya stuff. With time on my hands, it is time (:-)) to work on this restoration. Conscouisly or uncounsiously, I have been collecting some bits and pieces over the last decade. I have also buuilt a few Hotshots / Super Hostshots some stick, others modified. So, I have some leftover stock bits as well. This was the state of the kit prior to restoration. It had a mechincal speed controller, Twister 2WD motor (not sure why I have this in a 4WD), Front You G mono shock (broken shock support on one side) and Super Hotshot rear dampers. For some reason, some time in the past, I have shaven off the wing mount. I have a bit of gold paint on the chassis as well. Not sure why. This is not the original radio set. This is for my Optima mid. I totally forgot until I opened up the kit to find Sanwa electrtonics. This Sanwa came with non standard servo leads. I do not have any spares for the mechanical speed contrtoller. I will instead use a vintage Futaba esc. Little do I know some drama to follow... So, out goes the Sanwa, to be replaced with the Tamiya receiver with correct crystal. I have this esc that will replace the mechanical unit End of part 1
  14. Hi, I'm new at the club. I bought about two year ago a Blitzer Stadium (a release maybe). Since then I have modified many things on it. Looking on Internet to find new thing to do on the truck. My fun is to find what is cool on recent RC cars and try to reproduce on mine. I have already: installed front and rear carbon fiber shock tower with homemade aluminium parts upgraded the shocks (aluminium) upgraded suspension arm shafts (basic) removed some plastic of the chassis. Lower now replaced most of the screws ... I have modified many parts. So if you are interested to know the parts that I used to upgrade the blitzer, fell free to comment. Hope you will enjoy my first pictures. I will list soon all the modifications on the truck. Glob356
  15. Hi everyone, Would you know how much my Wild Commando might be worth? I bought it in 2003 and used it 3 times or so. I have no idea if it works, though I have all the parts, instructions and controllers etc it came with. I have it on e-Bay right now and within an hour of posting it for sale I was offered £100. No idea if this is a steal for the buyer or if I should hold out. Any advise would be appreciated. Images below. Cheers Kooks
  16. Hello all I am looking to buy the original Tamiya Hornet 5845, only NEW IN BOX. If anyone is interested to sell, kindly contact me personally. Thanks George
  17. Since becoming serious (as much as a non-humorless person can be said to be) about collecting Tamiya, rediscovering it after the beginning of the re-release era, it turned out I wasted a lot of time, effort and resources on quite a few projects and purchases that I thought were vintage but weren't... or that were but I thought nothing of replacing parts with new re-issued parts thinking they were identical. Often the differences / tells were staring me right in the face but I didn't know what to look for. Even now, and even among experienced members and collectors I find there are pockets of knowledge many have on this subject with respect to a few models they've become sort of 'specialists' in, and simultaneously quite a bit of uncertainty or total unfamiliarity for others. Although there are some resources that do a great job of introducing and explaining the situation, such as this excellent post from the TCer @Hibernaculum on his own blog, there is no one place I could find that could be considered a good central reference for someone trying to find out how to tell if something is original / genuine / vintage or not. By no means do I know enough on my own to fill this need, so I invite you all who know anything from one little tip to an encyclopedic knowledge of every variant of a model Tamiya ever released. We may as well also include Kyosho, Associated, etc to the extent relevant. The format that I think would be easiest and most useful for expanding on the existing compiled notes on a given model is to keep each post related to one model per, then anyone who'd like to add details or make corrections just quote or copy/paste the full contents of the most recently updated information about that one model, add their piece or modify what was there if/as needed... and then do the same separately for any other model(s). I don't have time right this second to do a complete coverage of the Frog, which I'll start off with since it was a couple mislabeled-as-vintage Frog items that made me think we needed a place to store and reference information like this. I also think it's important that people know they can add just fragments of useful information and don't feel like they need to post perfectly-formed analyses covering everything about a model. It's fine to do that, but not necessary, and I think we'll amass more useful information by keeping the bar low. If you have $20 of info to contribute, great... but also great if you only have $0.20 to add right now. So, I will start us off with a few Frog things in the next post. ps - I want to point out that for the most part, parts or models that are described as vintage or original that aren't one or both usually aren't the result of intentional misinformation. It's probably just a lack of knowledge combined with an under-appreciation of the significance of the difference that results in the proliferation of these kinds of mistakes. But it certainly doesn't help people who do care but are still learning develop an accurate knowledge. Hopefully, this thread can help.
  18. Hi, I want to buy a new brushed motor for my modified Blitzer Stadium. I wonder how many turns is best for the Blitzer? Tamiya silver can motor is 27T. Do I need a 21T, 23T? Thank you for your advice! Glob356
  19. I used to race Tamiyas when I was a kid back in the 80s. (Audi Quattro and Hotshot.) My father in law passed away recently and we found a MINT CONDITION AYK Viper, still unbuilt and in its original box. I'm guessing it had been there 25-35 years! There's a Schmalband FM controller too, also still in its box unused. Given I used to race RC cars, I was tempted to build it and have a play, but decided it really needs to go to someone who will truly appreciate it. So I've listed it on ebay and I'm posting here in the hope that a real enthusiast will give it a home. Search AYK Viper on ebay or use this link. There are more photos on ebay.
  20. Hi guys - it's been a while since I posted a build thread, and this isn't much of one, but I added a showroom entry showing some of the little oddities about the early/Mk1 Hornet kits. As most of you know even the vintage kits were produced over a number of years, with revisions to parts and instructions along the way. One of the most famous is that of the Mk1 Hotshot with the 3-hole (weak) bumper. Well the differences with the Mk1 Hornet are subtler but they are definitely noticeable when it comes time to do the MSC bits. Have a look! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134409&id=39840
  21. Hello, i am new to more expensive rcs, and i made my first a flea market hotshot. Not sure if its a mk1 or mk2, but it came with pamphlets printed in 1985 for the nicad battery. I tried to fix the msc, but it still wont work, as soon as i plug in the battery, it just runs backwards even with the controller off. There is a considerable lip on one of the contact plates. Gear boxes and suspension seem good. I am looking to simply replace the old one with a modern esc. Also, i have a new motor that came with, is there any way to make sure that its a compatible power? I will post pictures this afternoon. Thank you all.
  22. Vintage, near mint condition Tamiya QD cars; - Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VI WRC 46306 - Peugeot 206 WRC 46305 Was clearing out my attic and found these beauty's, originally bought them in 2000 on release for my then 2 year old son, opened once as i had to try these babys out and then put into storage, it is now 2019 as they were forgotten, life gets busy sometimes. £350 for both & offers
  23. G'day peeps Need help with restoring my Falcon plastics Firstly I have a practice bumper (see pic) so I am willing to try different methods. I know I'm not going to get the deep scratches out and have so far sanded half the bumper with 400, 1200 and 2000 grit wet and dry. I am happy with the smoothness however as you can see in the pic it has a milky white appearance now. Have I done something wrong or is there a way of restoring the black finish? Will the same thing happen with the chassis and other harder plastic parts? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Chris
  24. Took my road winner for a spin in the sand 😀 https://youtu.be/HqEA_Tv48j4
  25. I've decided to part company with my 2 vintage King Tiger tanks, so here they are up for grabs. Both are 56004 kits. 3 Tone Tiger. Details on this tiger are: Had the lower hull replaced with one from a newer full option tiger, and also has the rear battery tray from the full option kit. It has the upper hull from a full option tiger, so has the turret support rollers on the top and underside of the hull, and the stand offs for fitting the full option tiger turret rotator. Has the original strobe flash unit installed and is fully operational. There is a servo installed to activate the mechanism. The gearbox has had the original clutch mechanism removed, and 2 540s installed, one to drive each track directly. I used TT-01 spur gears to carry out the modification so spares are readily available, and the support block I machined for it is never going to break. There are twin Mtronics ECO 27 speed controllers (Good for up to 9.6V) installed to control the motors, along with an aircraft V tail mixer circuit. This enables the tank to be driven as you would a buggy, as well as being able to carry out pivot turns. The turret rotator control has been replaced with a vintage 3 step speedo with the resistor removed. The turret rotation mechanism allows the turret to be rotated continuously in either direction through multiple turns as there are no wires going from the hull to the turret, unlike the full option models. This enables it to rotate in either direction at a single speed, but if the resistor was re-instated it would be possible to rotate the turret at 3 different speeds. (Or the MSC could be replaced with a rock crawler ESC to give full proportional control over the rotation speed) It has an improved track tensioner mechanism fitted. (I can probably find the original mechanism if required) I can demonstrate the tank working, but would be keeping the transmitter and receiver used for the demo. Looking for £250 or equivalent in trade. Good points. The twin 540 motors give 100% increase in available power over the standard model, and eliminate the problem of clutch slippage. They also give the potential to fit 80T crawler motors for more torque, or even 540 high turn brushless systems. bad points. At the moment the clutch in the turret slips when trying to rotate the turret. Take off the upper hull and it works fine. I'm going to try and investigate to see if I can figure out what the problem is. The rear mud flaps have been knocked off, but I have them in the box and they will be included. Pictures gearbox Upper hull and turret 2 Tone Tiger This tiger also has my own twin 540 motor gearbox conversion. The front torsion springs under the gearbox have been replaced with heavy duty items to cope with the extra weight. The tank is fitted with twin MTronics ECO27 ESCs, capable of running on voltages up to 9.6V (8 cells). Unfortunately testing it this weekend one of the ESCs is playing up, got to check if it just needs a retune or if it's toast. I might have another to replace it with if needed, or if someone is interested in this tank and the other one has not gone I can pull an ESC from that one. There is also a V tail mixer fitted between the ESCs so that the it drives like a buggy (1 stick for throttle, another for steering). It is also possible to do pivot turns with it. The tank has the original turret rotator fitted along with the servo controlled switch for rotating left and right. There is a servo controlled camera mount fitted in the commands cupola which is a direct fit for a GoPro camera case, which can be rotated left and right. (This means you can rotate the camera one way and the turret the other). The plastic gun barrel ahs been replaced with a full option aluminium item, and it also has an aluminium muzzle brake fitted. The rear mud flaps have been knocked off, but I have them in the box and they will be included. I have also made some additional metalwork to help with the layout of the internals to make it easy to operate the tank. This is a unique tank in that it has two 540 size motors powering it, one for each track with no clutches involved. PS The weathering is genuine Wiltshire mud, and will wash off with water if it is not to your taste. I have the machine for the turret and it will be included, even though it's not the photos (I'd removed it to all the GoPro to rotate in the commanders cupola) If you don't want the GoPro mount and the servo, I can remove them and knock £10 off. Looking for £230 or equivalent in trade. I can demonstrate the tank working, but would be keeping the transmitter and receiver used for the demo. As I've mentioned above, I would prefer cash for both tanks, but could be willing to trade for other R/C items. I'd prefer not to post these tanks if possible, due to the weight and fragility, and would be prepared to travel a reasonable distance to conduct a trade / sale. forgot to add that I've got a box for one of the tanks, and some of the left over clutch parts, also some Porsche turret hull covers.
×
×
  • Create New...