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Found 5 results

  1. Now apologies if this is in the wrong section or i'm repeating someone else's thread but I've searched and not found anything or my search words are faulty causing the search engine not to chooch. Right, the front hub on the Brat / Orv as an axle what is pressed into the hub and mine pulled out after a good hours worth of fun. I persuaded it back in with a small hammer and all seems well, but I bet it will happen again, so..... Is there any way too mod this with new hubs from another model, or is this an apparent weakness? It's actually a re-release with all these newly re-designed flaws off the old design and six months old.
  2. OK, so I might have accidentally bought another King Blackfoot. I have HPI Super Star MT rims that I want to fit front and rear. The fronts fit fine with the HPI adapters but the rear won't fit as the stub axle isn't long enough. The wheel fits over the standard hex OK, the metal spacer fits over the stub, but there's not enough thread for me to get the nut on all the way to the nylock. I could probably fit a super narrow hex but I doubt I'd get enough thread. The wheel has a bit metal cone washer that also takes up a chunk of thread, but without it the wheel doesn't center properly as the hole in the middle of the wheel is way too large for the axle. Is there an axle with a longer thread that will fit in the King Blackfoot? I'm absolutely sure I had these exact same wheels on my last King Blackfoot without this problem.
  3. While my vintage buggy still has all the standard wheels and rubber, i wanted to take advantage of commonly available alternatives so i could put the original stuff away. The rear is simple if you have the re-re axles as they already have a pin layout allowing you to add a 12mm Hex adapter and fit most 2.2 wheels of your choice. However I was still looking at the best options for adding 2.2 wheels and tyres to the front of my Rough Rider, and wanted to share my journey and solution. The twin challenges were getting rims that were bearing enabled, and extending the axle out enough so the new rim didn't interfere with the steering upright. I found some JConcepts rims for the front that are meant for Team associated models (they take an imperial bearing but a 5x9x3 with a small shim or loctite still works fine), but they still needed to be spaced out far enough that there were too few threads for the nut. So I needed an axle extender. I could have ordered the CRP extenders but with the Sth pacific peso heading south daily, and me being too impatient to wait for up to 30 day delivery, I looked around for some alternative options. I usually start this kind of DIY bodge with the thought of "what can I repurpose" rather than starting from scratch. So I looked at the problem from 2 directions was there something with an M4 thread to screw onto the existing axle that had an OD close to 5mm, or was there something with a 5mm OD to match the axle OD, that could be tapped for an m4 thread. In the end I tried both methods. Option 1 - M4 threaded inserts I found threaded inserts (rivnuts) with M4 threads and a 6mm OD at a local hardware store The rivnuts threaded on to the existing front axle just fine, but obviously the outer diameter was too big to allow my bearings to fit. Not having access to a Lathe, I was wondering how to manage this when it struck me that using a spare rear axle as a holder, I could put the whole lot in a drill, and with gentle pressure use a file to take the 0.8mm I needed off the OD. This turned out to be easier than expected; This worked out fine, but with a largish overhang from the part not reduced which I would take up with a washer and spacer. Option 2 - 5mm OD spacers Coincidentally I found a second option in an electronics store in the form of 5mm steel "stand-off" spacers. These hold a circuit board off another, and were hollow with a 5mm OD, so then needed an M4 thread in them. While I've never used a tap to cut a thread, I did have a set, so figured since they were so cheap, I could probably afford to mess around some. In the end it was again pretty straightforward and seemed to have worked fine. I threaded them full length so I could use an M4 bolt to hold a washer and spacer at the other end. The advantage of this method is that I can easily cut the extension to size, which is not as easy with the rivnuts due to their shape. At the moment I have it at a length that means I add a small spacer and washer to hold the bearing in. I'm waiting until I get the slightly larger bearings before I cut it down to exact size, but have loctited them to the axle so they don't unwind on reversing. The total cost of the rivnut method was ~A$5 (or 25c a piece if you made all 20 into extenders), and the standoff method was a little higher at ~62c a piece. This compares to about A$19 if ordered off ebay, plus i got to install and use them about 1 hour after i started the project.. Here's the end result on my buggy. Hopefully this helps someone else.
  4. Hello again, Couldn't think of a better topic name, so I just named it after the model - Subaru Brat. Got it recently for 10 euros and didn't see much imperfections, except the lack of body, until I started reassembling it - the front suspension was made completely wrong and the screws were so hard and uncomfortable to reach and unscrew. But with some help from my father, the screws were off and I cleaned and reassembled the front. Altough, one porblem is still here and I don't know what to do. A nut, which is holding the front wheel is 'stuck' (don't know if it's the right word to use in such situation). When I try to screw or unscrew it, it just keeps spinning/moving in its place. Here are some pictures, so it would be easier for you to understand: Maybe someone of you have had similair problems? What hould I do? Also, I would be interested in a Subaru Brat body.
  5. While recently playing with my Buggy Champ my rear tire came off in a vacant dirt field. Obviously the wheel nut wasn't tightened enough, but I discovered the small steel pin that goes through the rear shaft and fits inside the back of the wheel hub fell out, too, followed by the wheel hub. As a kid I didn't remember this happening to my Rough Rider, so I pulled it out and took a look at it and sure enough the wheel hub is permanently attached to the rear shaft. I'm curious... Why would Tamiya make this particular design change? To me, it would seem the old design is the better one for two reasons. 1) The hub and shaft/axle are one piece with no small parts to lose. Also, no extra loose play from the u-joint to the wheel. 2) With it being one piece, you're able to tighten the wheel nut much more, preventing the nut from loosening. On the new design, the nut can only tighten to a point before the wheel will no longer turn. So again, why this design change? I can't imagine it was to save money. -- Jeff
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