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  1. The seller keeps dropping the prices randomly. I got 2x 5500mah 3s for £7.99 and 2x 3300mah 3s for £6.99! They had 4x 1500mah for £5.99 the other day too. I've got a couple of Floureon packs and they have been fine for me so it might be worth it for a bargain. It's the same seller I got mine off over a year ago too. They use different accounts but the accounts are all "based" in Southall UK so you can tell it's the same seller. Almost certainly a Chinese seller but mine came from Germany so they have stock in Europe at least. UPDATE: Apparently they are available on US ebay too?
  2. i just finished building the Egress black edition and now it turns out, my batteries don’t fit. i cut the plastic protection of the batteries to gain half a millimetre, but it’s not enough. are there shorter plastic boxes for batteries available?
  3. Hello. I could use some advice. I have a High-Lift Hilux with the multifunction unit. The rig is very heavy and I feel it is underpowered and could benefit from some 2S Lipos. So I ordered the most compatible Lipo batteries I could find on Amazon. They fit my Lunchbox with no issue as well as an old Nikko dune buggy. But it’s just slightly too large to fit into the Hilux. 🤦🏻‍♂️ Has anyone had any success modifying the battery compartment without destroying it? Thanks in advance for the advice. Cheers from Canada, Tal
  4. I'm sure this must have been done many time before but not recently as far as I could see after a quick search. I was curious as the difference in weights between all my various stick packs because even two supposedly same voltage packs seem to feel different weights just in the hand. Anyway here are the weights of my different types (I do have four each of most of these) but this covers a good range: Tamiya NiCd 1400mah, 7.2v = 326g Overlander NiMh 3300mah, 7.2v = 335g Absima NiMh 3600, 7.2v = 354g Sanyo NiCd 2000mah, 7.2v = 356g Sanyo NiCd 2000mah, 8.4v = 410g Sanyo NiCd 2000mah, 9.6v = 467g What surprised me was the fact the Absima with a claimed capacity almost double the Sanyo for the same 7.2v weighs less. I was expecting it to weight more. Also worth noting that although the Sanyo 8.4v pack weighs 54g more than its 7.2v sibling, my terra scorcher goes 4mph faster using the heavier 8.4v instead of 7.2v in conjunction with a Dyna Run Super Touring, why I have no idea as I thought top speed was limited by pinion sizing and motor rpm's not voltage? I thought it may be of interest to somebody to know some of the charging history and retained capacity of these packs, some of which are 20 years old: (Retained capacity is that stated by my Pro Peak Super Nova charger after each pack was fully discharged first, all taken over the last few days. I have also confirmed these capacities on a SkyRc T100 which gives almost identical results. All my packs are fully discharged and then charged before being put into storage (in a fireproof case) after use and have been since they were new. The first charge is always a trickle charge at 0.4A, subsequent charges have all been fast charges upto a maximum of 3A Tamiya NiCd 1400mah, 7.2v = 20 yrs old, 1000+ charges, 1350mah (lost 50mah) Overlander NiMh 3300mah, 7.2v = 1 month old, 6 charges, 3000mah (lost 300mah) Absima NiMh 3600, 7.2v = brand new, 1 trickle + 1 discharge/recharge cycle, 3300 (lost 300mah) Sanyo NiCd 2000mah, 7.2v = 18 yrs old, 1000+ charges, 1800mah (lost 200mah) Sanyo NiCd 2000mah, 8.4v = 18 yrs old, 2000+ charges, 1600mah (lost 400mah) - my most heavily used packs, always used in with 13T Dyna Run Super Touring or Reedy 19T spec motors. Sanyo NiCd 2000mah, 9.6v = 18 yrs old, 100+ charges, 2000mah (no loss) So in summary, Tamiya and Sanyo NiCd's that are over 18+ years old are still retaining most of their original capacity whereas brand new NiMh packs are not even taking 90% of their claimed capacity. Has anybody else experienced this sort of performance? I will be switching to LiPo next year and gradually swapping all our fleet into them and I will be interested to know if anybody had done similar comparisons on a range of LiPos?
  5. Hiya Folks, I just got my 1st ever taste of a Tamiya scale Truck, 1/14 th grand hauler...love them American truckers. Anyhooo, sorting thru some logistics, curious which battery packs some of you are using? I know recommended was the 7V Tamiya ones with its own connectors but can I use a Lipo for more juice instead, and which types are suitable... Thanks peeps!
  6. Hi all. I've just built my xv01 and am very pleased with how it slides about, but a little underwhelmed with its performance on NiMH. I've bought a B6AC Lipo charger. The xv01 has a 1060WP ESC and stock motor. I also have a lunchbox with Tamiya ESC and a sport tuned in it. I know I would need a lipo alarm for that one or different ESC. I need advice regarding if a silvercan / sport tuned would last running 3s, and what battery pack would fit in the xv01. If it's a really bad idea, the same questions regarding 2s. Want to keep the cost down at the moment so steering clear of brushless! Plus, it's all very confusing at the moment. Thanks in advance. 👍
  7. Hi guys I’m just starting my journey into Tamiya and rc cars. I’ve purchased my first Tamiya kit (Egress) as a Christmas present to myself and plan to start building it on Boxing day. I thought it wise to learn all I can before then and I’m currently on the subject of LiPo batteries / chargers. I have read countless articles and videos but there are still some really basic questions that I would really like answered. 1. If I decide to stop running my car for a few weeks/months what do I do with the battery? As I understand it, I need to discharge it to a safe voltage (ie place it in storage mode). Once I do that, can I simply unplug it from the charger, put it in a LiPo safe bag, and then put it on my garage shelf? 2. Where’s the best place to charge your LiPo battery? The thought of it exploding (even though this is apparently very rare) in my house scares me to death. Therefore, I’d be happier charging it in my garage (maybe in a ceramic pot / LiPo Safe bag). However, I read that you should never charge it unattended. 3. I understand that you shouldn’t let the battery drop below a certain level so save degradation. How do you know it’s not dropped below this level while driving the car? Does the ESC cut it off automatically when it reaches a certain voltage? I fully understand and appreciate that these are probably silly questions to ask but I thought it’s better to find out from experienced users than experiment as i go along. Any help or advice would be fully appreciated. Best regards Rod
  8. Hello all I'm trying to locate some original Tamiya 6V 4000MaH batteries as used in the Blazer, preferably boxed. Please let me know if you have any and are willing to sell (let me know how much you want for them) - thanks Rich
  9. TL;DR What's the best way to care for NiMH when it comes to charging, use, and storage? This is for 1:14 trucking, so I don't need high-current demands, I just want a set of packs that will take as many cycles as possible before going the way of the recycling centre. I don't need to fast charge - I'm happy to slow charge before events, two packs per truck will last a whole day. Long Version It's been a while since I seriously used NiMH batteries in anything - since moving to LiPo I haven't looked back. But I've got a big truck event this weekend, and due to an administrative error some new LiPos didn't arrive on time, so I bought two new Ripmax 3000mAh NiMH packs from the LHS. They cost me a fair bit - as much as the non-delivered LiPos, which have almost a 40% higher capacity and are, well, LiPos. Back in the good old days, my charging technique for NiMHs was "run it until it slows down, then crank up the clockwork dial to 15 mins and let it run." Remember those clockwork chargers? Terrible, weren't they? When I was racing (and even bashing) on NiMHs, the general attitude was "do a race, then stick it on the fast charger, it'll shut off when it's done." I ran for a few years like that, but mostly I had around 10 packs to choose from and at any one time, a couple of those would be suspect - i.e. not holding a charge or dumping very quickly when used. While some NiMH packs would give me several years of use before heading for the bin (or light duties powering LED displays on the shelf), others would become troublesome within a few months, especially if they were being raced hard and charged hard. The label on the battery says to charge for 14-16 hours at 0.3A (10%). Yesterday I charged both brand new and unused packs at 0.3A and one had a false peak after 70 mins, the other charged for over 7 hours before peaking. This morning I topped off the early-peaked pack at 1A and it took another 60 mins or so of charge. Slightly worrying that these are both brand new packs yet exhibit different characteristics on the same dual charger. So, what's the best way to keep them living long? Should I trickle-charge them at 10% and let the better cells thermal off any excess? I've heard NiMH cells can be damaged even on a trickle charge. Would I be better charging at 0.1A if I'm going to trickle them? That's a very long charge time Should I charge them at 1 - 2A and let the delta peak stop the charge? Or even fast-charge at 3A? What's the best delta to use to protect the battery (vs getting max voltage when the start buzzer sounds?) Should I discharge them before recharging? Should I build a discharging board to discharge each cell individually, or hook the battery up to a low-current application (like running the truck's lights on the workbench for a few hours) to zero all the cells before charging? Is there any mileage in charging each cell individually with a probe, or is that only worth doing if the pack starts to exhibit poor charging / capacity characteristics later down the line? I know there are people here who religiously use NiMH all the time and don't complain about the kind of problems I used to have 10 years ago, so there must be a way to treat them well, especially if I'm not fast-charging them four times a week between races and topping them off until they're boiling to get the very best performance off the starting box.
  10. Hello Some time ago, I posted here the restoration of my vintage Sand Scorcher The point is that the battery is dead and the motor broke some time ago, so I need to buy replacement Can you recomend me some options? The battery was a Turnigy 4200mah LIPO hard case and I would like something similar but I would prefer a smaller one, even if it has less capacity. About the motor, I had a RS-540 Torque Tuned if I am not wrong, I would like something similar, better if its cheaper. I would appreciate any help, I am a bit lost now. Thank you and sorry if I made some mistakes, English is not mi mother language
  11. I've ordered this battery (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272350378004) for my new Tundra. Is it any good? (did not want LiPo since I'm a beginner). Thinking I might have to buy another battery soon cause I understand you shouldn't run Ni-Mh more than once or twice a day. What charger would you recommend? I was looking at Traxxas EZ-Peak Plus or Dual..
  12. I got a new 8.4v 3800 nimh pack from overlander last week. Used twice on my Thunder Dragon but found it made the car too hard to drive with 120a esc and 10.5t brushless. ESC has now died so want to go back to 7.2. Has a deans connector installed by overlander. I have tamiya adaptor for both a charger and/or tamiya esc plug. Maybe good for a big wig rere? Cost me £29 for the pack and £3 for each adaptor. It's this pack but with a deans plug. https://www.overlander.co.uk/premium-sport-3800-8-4v-power-pack.html Make me an offer before it goes on eBay? Now on eBay. A bit of research reveals it will fit any Thundershot chassis buggy, but will also fit any hotshot variant if you get part 50296 Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263000080384 I have deans to tamiya adaptor leads if needed too.
  13. I've read that in order to determine how long to charge a 7.2v NiMH one should divide the total number of battery mAh by the DC output of the charger, also mA, and factor in a 20% fudge factor. In my case that would be for my 7.2v 5300mAh battery over 35 hours!! Can that be right? 5300mAh for battery/ dc output of charger of 150mA + 20% fudge factor = > 35 hours Should I purchase a battery with a lower mAh? I had read that the higher the mAh of a battery the longer and better performance you could expect. Can someone suggest a charger that has a higher DC output of 150mA? I only have a simple cheap charger that plugs into the wall like a cell phone charger. Any other suggestions? ek
  14. I picked up a very badly looked after hornet, Is it possible to run the original recover from the main battery rather than the separate battery pack?
  15. I have two original Tamiya RC2400SP 2400mAh Ni-Cd batteries up for sale like the one in the picture. They have not been used in a long time but I am pretty sure that a few cycles would revive them. They are in very good shape appearence-wise so they can be actually used for display purposes as well. I am asking for 20€ for each of those or 35€ for both. I will accept offers on those. Shipping is free for Europe. Please note that the green sticker can be removed (it was there to tell the 2 batteries apart)
  16. In mint NIB condition at a good price! http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-Vintage-Tamiya-6N-1200SC-7-2v-Hardcase-Hump-Ni-Cd-Battery-NEVER-OPENED-5508-/331717551345 http://www.ebay.com/sch/waynethebrain/m.html
  17. Hello everyone... I am new to this site and this is my first post I am getting back into RC cars in order to enjoy them with my son and when I was a teen, I was a rather avid Tamiya fan and still have a decent vintage collection. One of the cars that I have is the Toyota Bruiser "Hog Heaven" truck. It could use some TLC but it still runs and is in decent shape. I have the original Tamiya 6V 4000 mAmp battery and after sitting for over 25 years it isn't in the greatest shape. With that being said, I am looking for any advice on a replacement battery and probably a new charger for said battery based on today's technology. If memory serves me correctly, the Bruiser has a rather large RS750 motor so the battery has to be able to put out some serious power to move the truck along. Again, I am getting back into this and I know that technology has changed... I was rather familiar with NiCD batteries but with LiPO and MiMH I don't have a clue so any suggestions on a good battery and charger would be appreciated. Thank you for any help.
  18. Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone with some more experience that I can help with my inquiry.... I have recently put together a new Tamiya Wild One re-issue and need some help finding a lipo battery pack that will fit into the standard battery compartment. I tried this model: RC Turnigy 4000mAh 2S 30C Lipo Pack .... but it was too big. Can anyone please advise what will fit without modification and provide similar (or more) power and run time? Or is there a modification that WIld One owners are performing to accommodate lipos? Any help is appreciated it advance.
  19. Hello All! I have been asked to advise a fellow modeller on which brushless motor, ESC and LiPo to buy for his new DB-01 Durga. Trouble is, my experience is limited to brushed motors and NiMH batteries, and I do not own a Durga. So, could those of you who run the things please help us out? I know the Durga has quite a uniquely-shaped shell, and I am not sure what the battery bay looks like, so I am quite keen to hear from Durga owners who can recommend gear that will fit the chassis and shell, as well as provide suitable power. Suggestions? Thanks!
  20. So I've decided to finally move to a rechargeable battery pack for my Tx and am dumping the single cells, I have a few questions, any insight? 1. My Tx has an accurate battery voltage display and a low battery warning but these can't be configured or set. I assume the low battery warning will not be calibrated for LiPo and I should not depend on that - good assumption? 2. Assuming I can't rely on the warning, I can leave the Tx display on charge level when I'm running (I don't need to view the other screens whilst running) but what level is "low" for a 11.1v 3s? 3. Even though the packs are cheap I'd prefer an alarm - can I fit an inline LV alarm/cutoff between the Tx and battery pack? The Rx has steering and throttle fail safes so if the Tx cuts the vehicle will roll to a stop in a straight line. 4. What would happen if somebody plugged a charger into the charging port on my Tx if the LiPo pack was plugged in? Should I snip the wires as a precaution? 5. Am I being paranoid... 6. I see 1450mah all the way up to 3600mah... really I'll probably charge the Tx pack each time I charge my race packs, how long could I expect a fully charged 1450mah pack to last (my Tx manual only calls for a 700mah pack)? 7. Should I be asking any other dumb or intelligent questions? Tks.
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