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Found 47 results

  1. I bought myself a beater BF on eBay as a Xmas present to myself. Lots of vintage hop-ups and a body in decent shape. After a month or so of Tamiya putty and sanding and spraying and fixing and redoing this and redoing that, I’ve decided it’s good enough for me. The sunroof was my wife’s idea The best part was finding NIB chrome for $40 delivered. Score! Terry
  2. Hi. My first post, so thanks in advance for any help offered! I've just bought and built a 2016 Blackfoot. Everything standard apart from metal ball bearings. 3000mah nimh battery. The transmission seems very smooth and working properly. But with the motor in, if i turn the rear wheels forward (with my hands) it doesn't turn as easy as I think it should. When I turn them in reverse its harder again. So this was concerning. The gear mesh is good. When running it, to me, the truck seems slow. I expected a quicker pickup. With a 10T pinion the top end is never going to be that quick. The engine gets hot quickly and after 4 or 5 minutes it is extremely hot to the touch. ESC is not hot. After about 5 minutes the car loses any punch it did have and after about 7 minutes its lost a lot of speed. It could run for a few more minutes but the fun has gone by that stage. Other thing to mention, it doesn't freewheel very far. In reverse, though reverse is slow, it practically doesn't freewheel at all. I'm trying to work out how much of this is normal as Ive never had a tamiya truck before, and how much is a problem. I'd be happy to buy a better motor and battery but no point if the same problems persist. My daughter has a Tamiya Racing Fighter, same set up, and it is so much faster, runs so much longer, motor doesnt get hot etc, that I'm left a bit disappointed with Blackfoot. It looks great though!! Many thanks for any advice.
  3. Hi All, I am in need of 3 spotlight stickers for a project. The blackfoot appears to have the stickers I'm after and I'm sure I have seen some other models with the same/similar design. The following is what I'm looking for: Please could anyone let me know if they have anything suitable. Need a minimum of 3. Thanks in advance!
  4. Hi everyone. Just a heads up, I have been in contact with Don regarding his .50 caliber customs CNC rear ORV arms, and he is now considering the option of another parts run if there is enough interest. He is going to contact some local machine shops to work out minimum numbers and minimum pricing required and take it from there. Obviously the rear swing arms are the crown jewel item, but other possible parts if it goes ahead are steering blocks, front arms, rear shock mounts, rear body post brace, and motor cover. Some links to show examples of his parts - https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-frog-brat-orv-aluminum-468167415 https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-monster-beetle-black-foot-mud-440019891 https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-vintage-blackfoot-monster-481068476 https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-monster-beetle-black-foot-mud-401325750 https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-frog-monster-beetle-blackfoot-132398427 https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tamiya-frog-brat-blackfoot-monster-137667539 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=97760&id=23382 Don's plan once he knows minimum cost and numbers is to start a go fund me page to raise the capital required. He is happy for me to share his email address so any questions can be sent directly to him, but please genuinely interested inquiries only - Don McAtee - mcateedon@gmail.com Lets all support him on this and cross our fingers in the hope that it goes ahead Cheers, Dave.
  5. Hi All, Looking to put dyna blaster wheels and tyres on my beetle/blackfoot project. Has anyone done this? I have rere frog hex adapters but am assuming I'm going to need different front spindles for the front wheels. Any help muchly appreciated!
  6. Gearbox for the Monster Beetle, although it should be a direct fit for all ORV cars. The design has been tested hard in my MB, through several vintage events and bashing sessions in all weathers. This eliminates the main problem with the car, the separation of the gearbox sides and destruction of the diff. With this transmission the kit diff will hold up to high powered motors without needing to be upgraded. You can also move the motor to set the pinion mesh and change ratios, viewing the mesh clearly through a polycarbonate window. What's included: - 3mm carbon fibre gearbox sides, CNC cut and engraved - CNC machined billet aluminium gear box structure - CNC machined aluminium motor mount plate - Polycarbonate end cap - All necessary additional fasteners inc. hex socket screws all round - Free shipping worldwide £120
  7. Hi All, I am after some unused driver parts for a Blackfoot 3. They come on the 'H' sprue with part number 19000249. I only need parts 1, 2, 4, 5 and 7 from the sprue. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks Mark
  8. I have for sale (UK based) 2 Nr WT-01 (Bush Devil 2's) one in Blue one in Black. stripped to stock rollers with steering servo's only. No motor, no ESC. Tires are New never run as we switched to a different tire. Both will have boxes in pristine condition. Instructions used once to build the car. Graphics and paint are non box art and all remaining parts and decals are in the BOX. £65 plus post each. Both are used in good condition (likely about 15-30 batteries through each) only exception is the Blue shell has a crack that I have fixed with Shoe Goo & Tamiya Body repair tape. As you will see from the photos they are in overall good used condition. Only used with Tamiya Sport/torque tuned motors on NiMh batteries. Both were build as Christmas presents last year and have been maintained by myself. Blak one had to have a new front dummy gearbox after a frontal impact with his little brothers MadBull. Both have the motor mount screw held in place with a nut on the end, Both also have the pinion and motor plate attached to the car. Photos updated and in last post in thread. Both are £60 plus post. NOTE Blue one has one of the front spotlights missing. NOTE photo immediately below is Just after they were finished and is a year old. This photo is of both trucks just after we finished them. you can see what a difference the big wheels make. On mine (blue) the flames started to peel on the bonnet so I removed them. Reduced to £60 each plus post. I also have 2 FULL sets (8 tires and wheels in all) monster tires for these, make the truck stand wider and higher and give it real presence. Also less likely to flip over. They fit onto the original car rims and include foams and don't need glue (unless you run LIPO with Brushless) only light wear still over 80% TREAD. These will fit any of the WT-01 buggies as well as the Blackfoot/Monster Beetle trucks. I have attached some photos of the trucks when just finished (above) to let you see the stance of them. £25 for 4 plus Post. I also have 2 full Alloy wishbones, attached to gearboxes, with most (if not all) drive shafts etc. with BIG BORE Alloy shocks and GPM Alloy Damper mounts/uprights (30 new for a pair) I bough these of eBay with the idea of up-rating mine but never ran them as I got a Traxxas Stampede. As such cant comment on the gearboxes or shocks. £60 plus post. REDUCED to £50 plus post. All will be well packaged and post of your choice from least expensive is Royal Mail 2nd class signed for through 1st to ParcelForce 48Hr. All have some degree of tracking and signed for and have been proved very reliable for me. This assumes a UK buyer. As post is at cost I am happy to get a quote to post overseas if wanted. PayPal only. F&F is fine OR if you prefer to use Goods and Services you will need to cover the fees. I am offering these all here first before resorting to eBay. Any questions please ask. If you want to do a package deal PM me. ALL now on eBay, will only sell here IF I have no bids on eBay on that item. Thanks,Andrew
  9. I've been delaying posting this until I was sure I had everything figured out and wasn't going to be halted due to cost or loss of interest. So, after my Bad Influence (Stag) Jugg/TXT build, I had a bunch of reasonably viable parts left over: Then another thread reminded me of a project I'd wanted to do before, but had abandoned due to lack of skill, so off it was to eBay - and with the help of waterbok nabbing some parts from Germany when my address was deemed invalid I ended up with this haul: I decided to go with Jugg2 axles instead of RC4WD Blackwells because they had the input offset I'd need to reduce driveshaft angle, it was cheaper for a matching pair, and I wouldn't have to purchase adapters to fit the Clod wheels. Also, I'm going to use the stock Jugg servo saver setup with a single servo for 4wheel steer (which may be changed depending on how many times I roll the truck). Yes, those are alloy Jugg E parts and a leaf spring bag. We're going old school. Then, it was off to Rhino - quite a bit of steam coming out my ears getting all the measurements right and double checking positioning but then I got this: Currently, according to Shapeways it'll be shipped on Mar 8, and then I'll be able to test fit things and see how wrong I got everything. Can anyone guess what the final product is supposed to look like? (there's a hint in the title of the thread)
  10. Hi has anybody got a rear bumper for a king blackfoot they would like to sell? if you have anything please let me know cheers
  11. Super excited to get a Blackfoot! I ordered some Ball Bearings for it, (Fast Eddy) and that's it so far. I'd heard about the MIP ball diff, but I dont want to soak another $60 on this right away. Not planning on gong brushless or Lipo right away. What am I missing?
  12. http://r.ebay.com/38p1st I found this during my daily EBAY search... What would be the purpose of this??? Are the benefits worth buying this or making one out of spare parts at home??? Thanks, Terry
  13. Now SOLD I have a Blackfoot Extreme shell for sale in gloss black. Lots of photos, no scrapes at all, but some chips on the chrome. Only stickers are front lights, front grill, roll bar spots and rear number plate. There is Shoe Goo on the inside of the shell at the bonnet hump but I cant see why as there is no evidence of a crack or split the outside of the shell. I got this on what I will be running for a basher for a learner (good lady and youngest son) so it will get destroyed and I am told its worth £30. I will get a polycarb shell to run on it instead so anyone interested in this body as is. Will post further for the extra cost.
  14. Here's the start of a long project, I've always been a fan of the Scorcher Beetle body and off course the Blackfoot body, but didn't really want to buy another ORV chassis just to get the body, or separate my Monster Beetle from its body.....so I decide to build a rig for a yet to be purchased Blackfoot body. i wanted to do something different, since I already have a spare Lunchbox transmission, which I deviced a 4 link suspension for...I wante to go 4 link suspension in the front too...
  15. Want to buy: NIB or used (in good working condition) Tamiya Frog "sway bar" or "stabilizer" set for rear. Looking for Trinity #7002, or You-G #TM-8413, or a CRA rear stabilizer set. If you have one you can sell me (USA), please get in touch! Thanks, Terry
  16. Last week I ordered my second WT-01 monster truck. I already have a Tamiya Blackfoot III full alloy conversion but now I want a fast brushless truck, so I buy a Bush Devil II kit. An unboxing and tuning parts video: First act was opening the gear box and changing the bearings. I used bearings without rubber, for softer running. The diff was already filled with grease. Next step was building the shocks. Team C but labeld with Ansmann. 93mm shocks for rear and 85mm for front. They are very good finished, looks awesome. The sorings are very soft. After that I build the rear axle and implement a wheel spacer, because my beadlock rims have only +6mm offset, but I need 10-11mm like the stock rims. I see in TT-01 community Super Blackfoot axles, they are 5-7mm longer. Perfect! But there was a new problem: how to fill the space between hex and ball bearing. I tried this: - rubber o-rings -> pressing to strong on the bearings and expensive - washer -> too big - special small rc washer -> too expensive ...think...think...think....I got it! Alloy tube from hardware store -> cheap, exactly 5mm inner width, unbreakable and easy to rebuild, if lost. I changed every tapped screw by M3 screws and small tubs. So suspension is very soft and clean and more stable than stock screws. I found two alloy hex adapters, installed only on rear axle. Building rear axle is same like front. C-Hubs I using are for TL-01 but fits also perfect on WT-01. Made of delrin and ball beared! The bearings are filled with rubber compared with bearings in gear box. The rubbers protect against dirt. For front shocks I need to change the piston rod from 51mm to 41mm. Otherwise the shocks would be too long. The chassis was very easy to build, only tapped screws. But for servo I have used alloy mounts from Tamiya with some spacers. Works good, but I hope the mounts don't broke again, like on my Blackfoot. Toward Pro servo from asia, 15kg alloy gear. Kimbrough servo saver, stable and short, it don't touch the chassis. No big deal, after that chassis looks like this: Rims are made by gmade, 2.2'' beadlocks, looks awesome and mustn't be clued. The have nearly same size like stock but bit bigger and No 1 grip! So the "final" chassis looks like this: Next step brushless kit and searching for a nice looking body shell. Bye for now!
  17. I'm looking to buy a Blackfoot CRP 1628 Upper Chassis Support System. http://www.rcchopshop.com/crp/1628.html Ideally new in packet but not too worried.
  18. I am in the process of restoring my old vintage Blackfoot. I had been using a PDF copy of the original manual from here: http://www.wheelsacademy.info/rc/tamiyapdf/TamVeh76.pdf However, it has fallen off the web this week. I have a re-release manual but would ideally like a copy of the original. Does anyone have a PDF copy of a vintage Blackfoot manual they can give to me or a hard-copy that I will gladly pay for?
  19. I just got another set of HPI #2100 front rims in the mail... These came with the front axle adapters, which are getting harder to find... These will get tossed in the spare wheel bin along with several other white pairs, and several black pairs... One more set of #2100s and I'll have (3) complete white sets and (3) complete black sets... And last week I got (7) NOS Pro-Line 2.2 tires in the mail... Road tires mostly, but it did have the Striker II's I've been looking for forever... Can you ever have too many wheels and tires??? Terry
  20. Looking to buy as king Blackfoot
  21. Hey all - The blackfoot was my very first rc so excited to see it get re-released! I finished the assembly, but have a ton of extra parts. In the manual (specifically page 25) the parts are highlighted in a darker color than the parts I used during assembly. I didn't miss any of the steps either. Anyone know what the deal is with that? Many thanks!
  22. OK, so I've been using some "yeah racing" aluminum oil dampers on my Bushy D (vintage Bush Devil/Super Blackfoot) with standard Blackfoot front-end suspension... Here's an example pix: http://jpegbay.com/gallery/005068524-1.html#1 I haven't been too happy with the dampers, although they look really shiny... They just don't have the same "mushy-ness" as my neighbors Tra**as big bore dampered truck... So I bought some Tamiya 50520 CVAs for the Bushy D... I'm waiting still for them to arrive, but I wanted to start a discussion about these for my own sake... Mine the Tamiya Club database for nuggets of knowledge... Topic 1: I noticed (from reading instruction manuals online) that the re-re MB CVAs (I assume the BF too) use the solid piston with the solid flat-head (BC8), while the 50520 uses pistons with attachable e-ringed flat-heads with holes (1, 2, or 3)... Anyone have any first hand knowledge on a comparison between the different set-ups??? I'm thinking of using the 3-hole flat-head... Topic 2: I also want to jazz up my car. Are there any other colors that I can get the plastic pieces, other than black, yellow, and white??? Do other color CVA shock plastic pieces exist??? I see there are clear blue 50519 parts (???), are there blue or red pieces??? Are these plastic pieces from other cars that I can use to replace the typical 50520/50519 plastic pieces??? Topic 3: Does anyone have any experience with the 50519s on a Frog??? I think I'll need those for my front-end... AFAIK the piston and reservoir lengths are shorter??? These have a clear blue option, as mentioned above??? Topic 4: Hi-Cap Dampers. How cool are they??? Thanks, Terry
  23. Here's a video I've knocked together of them running: https://youtu.be/N12e9e0wnHY Here's the crashes: I hope those links work,the second one seems to have come up with a full screen shot unlike the first main one.... Well it's not really a fair contest as the Super Blackfoot had a 22T motor & 4200mah 40-80C Li-PO. The Super also had a Parma Lexan body so is a bit lighter. On smooth Tarmac the super clocked 18.8mph. The classic only managed 11.6mph with a stock silver can & old NIMH, I later realised I could squeeze in the big square edged 5800 LiPo, it clocked 12.8mph then. It's surprising by how much 1.2mph looks faster! I guess I should really tune the classic as the parts are just about all available again, but I don't want to stress the diff. I tried to drill drive cups the last time I had it in bits but that wasn't happening. It occurred to me if you could get an M2 bolt that was long enough it should be possible to bolt it right though, but I've not found one yet, I think it needs to be about 36mm but I don't want to strip it again to check! I'm running the frog re-re drive shafts now. I'd replaced every part of the gearbox apart from the white plastic bearing holders, with those now new it's actually working ok for once. Oddly enough the drive train caused me very few issues back in the day the hex drives were fine I just stripped the teeth of the reduction cog once & hammered the metal sides in so they pressed in on the diff it ran fine like that. It's odd how much better the super was on the beach though it hardly ever got stuck even driving up sand dunes. They both have soft foam filled tyres but you can see the classic just spinning them. The super can carry more speed into obstacles, but even from a standing start it gets over bumps the classic can't I guess maybe the super can spin it's wheels fast enough to fling the sand out of the treads or it's just down to the different suspension arrangement & slight weight advantage or as my boy said just cos it's got more power! The super's chassis is actually the one from my 80s classic I snapped a rear body mount off it so they had to swap as the super doesn't need them. The classic body is my original I'm tempted to get a new one now but I kind of like the battered look its picked up over the years (I melted the rear end trying to recreate the flaming tyre tracks from back to the future)
  24. I saw this a while ago Big Squid RC but am surprised it hasn't surfaced on here. So Xtreme Racing are offering carbon fibre hop ups for the Black Foot and Monster Beetle in the form of rear shock mounts, front shock tower and battery supports. http://www.xtremercracing.com/Products_by_Brand.cfm?pn=10521&pID=1769 http://www.xtremercracing.com/Products_by_Brand.cfm?pn=10522&pID=1770 http://www.xtremercracing.com/Products_by_Brand.cfm?pn=11520&pID=1768
  25. FS: used Thorp Dirt Burners "Blackfoot" drive system. 99% complete. Counter gear, Diff Gear, Dogbones, Axles, Hubs, Bearings... The only thing missing is one of the bolts for one of the Hubs. One bolt is included so you can match. http://jpegbay.com/gallery/005377784-.html#1 Taken from a used Blackfoot bought from EBAY. Disassembled, cleaned, lubed with Tamiya Ball Diff Grease, reassembled. Shows some wear - seems to have been "well-loved". $100 Paypal OBO. Thanks! Terry
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