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Found 28 results

  1. Took the punisher blitzer out for a late night stroll so Frank could try out his new dome light. I made it for him cause we all know what it's like to drop your phone or gun in the car and can't find it. I think he likes it! 😂 #tamiya #tamiyarc #tamiyablitzerbeetle #tamiyasandscorcher #volkswagen #volkswagenbeetle #thepunisher
  2. (Project Punisher Beetle Udate) Meet Frank, this is the driver and his dashboard. But what I am really proud of is the chasis work I did. If only you seen it before it was like the person who had it ran it thru a oil field thats why he sold it so cheap. The body was giving to me and said I know you will do something epic with it so I took that color splash stickers off and here we are. Im just waiting for Frank's steering wheel to come and its almost done. Thanks for whoever is following this build and have taken interest in it! 🩶🖤🩶🖤💀
  3. Just wanted to share my second tamiya beetle build. Seriously cought a bad case of the bug because I just love these cars and love turning them into street beelte buggies 🖤❤️🖤❤️
  4. I just love these beetle cars and love to turn them into street beetles. Here is the video if you are interested in it.
  5. Hi, I'm new at the club. I bought about two year ago a Blitzer Stadium (a release maybe). Since then I have modified many things on it. Looking on Internet to find new thing to do on the truck. My fun is to find what is cool on recent RC cars and try to reproduce on mine. I have already: installed front and rear carbon fiber shock tower with homemade aluminium parts upgraded the shocks (aluminium) upgraded suspension arm shafts (basic) removed some plastic of the chassis. Lower now replaced most of the screws ... I have modified many parts. So if you are interested to know the parts that I used to upgrade the blitzer, fell free to comment. Hope you will enjoy my first pictures. I will list soon all the modifications on the truck. Glob356
  6. Started when tried to look for a Blitzer Beetle but due to the pandemic there was a shortage of kits available. Next I found a Sand Scorcher body and started to think 🤔. I pulled my Monster Beetle body off and placed it on my son’s TT-02B Plasma Edge II. Overall it appears to fit but is tight. Also knowing my son’s TT-02B a lot of upgrades are required and I have been slowly amassing upgrades / hopups. Next I discovered Tamiya Club and realized I am not the only person with the same idea 🤗. A lot of great projects by others and here is my interpretation. I took a day off work and here starts my 4WD Blitzer Beetle build. EDIT: now with 4 wheel steering EDIT again: Completed (Oct 18, 2022)
  7. Looking for a Chrome Blitzer Beetle Body & Or Kit for a friend.
  8. ... or, A Tale of Two Beetles. Hi everyone, this is my first post on TC but I’ve been poking around these forums for a few years. I’m an old guy who’s been around RC for a very long time. Beginning with RC planes with my dad in early 1970's then purchase my first surface RC vehicle around '79 or '80 - a newly released Tamiya Sand Scorcher ordered from the Tower Hobbies catalog. The car was built and finished mostly box-art except that I replaced French Blue with Orange and added to the headlights tiny incandescent bulbs from the model railroad hobby. I sold that car sometime in the mid ‘80’s – wish I had taken some photos but no. So, a few months back I picked up a Blitzer Beetle and while building that car, I got the idea to recreate the Scorcher from my early days. Of course, the 2010 Sand Scorcher re-release kits are available again but this time around I want to build the car around a lighter and more modern chassis with A-arm suspension, a gear diff, etc. I want something that looks like a Scorcher but with better performance. After considering a few different chassis options, I landed on the DT-02 – or more specific, the Holiday Buggy version. If I had been aware of the differences, I’d chosen the Sand Viper version instead. For only 50 bucks more, the Viper comes with oil dampers, adjustable camber links, metal out-drives, axles and dogbones, a 540 motor, and full bearings. It also includes a lexan body and wing that likely will fit many different off-road buggies in the collection. However, completely ignorant of the differences, I went cheap and got the Holiday Buggy – well okay, so be it. So, the plan is to paint the Blitzer body similar to my old Scorcher (using TS-98 Pure Orange) and recreate the alternate livery shown in the back of the original SS manual using MCI’s reproduction decal sheets. The Blitzer chassis will be as standard – no mods. For the Scorcher, the DT-02 will receive new custom arms to permit track width and wheelbase to match the original Scorcher. The goal here is to minimize chassis mods; alter the track and wb with arms alone if possible. Of course, the body will be finished as close to box-art as possible using French Blue and MCI’s reproduction decals. I have a special modern 2.2 wheel and tire package in mind for this car that will pay homage to the vintage car (well, I think it’s special anyway). The new DT-02 arms and rear guard assembly have been printed and the initial chassis mockup is nearly finished at this point. I’m just test fitting printed parts, adjusting the "dampers" and sorting the body mounts. I’ll post more detailed info on that in the next update. We’re approaching spring and with more moderate temps and low humidity, it’s time to get those bodies prepped and painted. Both will receive some body work, two colors plus clear and polish so this will take some time. So, this will be a two-for-one build thread and I hope y’all will check back later and watch what happens.
  9. So ive been knocking together a Sand Hopper, this required body mounts, they attach using regular tamiya screws to the regular mounting holes on the chassi. To fit the shell i trimmed down the point of the chassi to the level of the bumper mounts and notched the bottom of the front of the beetle shell maybe 3mm. (ignore the hole in the battery compartment, it is unrelated to mounting the shell, my 2s 5000mah battery didnt fit so i removed the rear wall of the compartment and cut the hole in the top so the power/balance leads are protected inside of the tub.) Files are oriented for maximal strength when printed, the prints will require supports. ADDITION: Made a cover for the point of the chassi, file attached. SandHopperShellMounts.zip frontcover05.zip
  10. I finally found the Blitzer in stock, wanted one for so long. I never liked the orange wheels and thought this little bug deserves some attention. This will be not box art and hoping this will look like in my vision when done. What I am trying to do is… -try and guess! This will have 2.2” narrow front wheels and 2.2/3” wide thread rears. Anyway, lets start the build. The kit includes the new 04 esc, but I will use the TBLE 02. Like allways, Tamiya manual is super easy to follow. I did add ball bearings ( Had extra set of Carson DT-02 bearings laying around) Blitzer uses the same bearing size. Gearbox all ready. Notice the Sport Tuned motor.(it may be changed to ~10.5t brushless later)
  11. Was thinking of making a stadium blitzer from a brat Shell that I got. Will this work? Worth doing?
  12. http://shpws.me/RSRT Forgot i did these. These rear uprights replace the kit parts on the following kits, original or rerelease: Tamiya Stadium Blitzer Tamiya Stadium Thunder Tamiya Blitzer Beetle They introduce 3 degrees of toe in for stabilisation of the rear end on turn in and greater traction on exit. They are not compatible with the fixed plastic upper arms, they require camber links with ball connectors. The inboard camber link hole is same as the kit. The other hole lengthens the link and lowers the roll centre for more traction at the expense of more body roll. There is a 4.5mm spacer inside each bore should be cut out on the sprues and cleaned up. This can be placed in front or behind the upright when mounting to the suspension arm to adjust the wheelbase. I suggest placing it in front to start with. This maintains the wheelbase around the kit setting. If you want a shorter wheelbase, put the spacer behind the uprights. Make sure the spacer is in the same position on both sides of the buggy. Uses 2 x 1150 (5x11x4) bearings in each upright. You will need to clean out the bearing bores with an exacto knife just to make the shoulder edge in the housing sharp. They are tight fitting, but that is on purpose to make sure they stay put. The camber link ball nut should be installed using a M3 x 12 cap head screw. The ball nuts you need are any of the following type (you need one nut per upright) Tamiya 9804206 steel ball nuts Tamiya 53640 aluminium ball nuts Tamiya 9808012 steel ball nuts Or any other Tamiya 5mm ball nut. Clean out the 3mm holes with a 3mm drill or 3.05mm reamer.
  13. Hi guys, I wonder if someone has already set anti-roll bars on Stadium Blitzer. I just bought a DT-03 stabilizer set (54561 / OP-1561). If anybody has information about that, it will appreciated. Thanks ! Take care. Glob356
  14. For my FAV bug build I bought what I thought was an articulated 7 inch terminator. It turns out that is only partially true. His head, arms are and even his right leg twists in two places the one bit that isn't is his hips!!! I want him sitting down in the car so will have to perform surgery.. My question is what is the best way to cut. Chicken drumsticks or wedges and bend and fill? Or something else. He is made of quite hard plastic so cutting should not be difficult. I have most forms of cutting implement including an electric fretsaw. Any ideas would be appreciated. I know some of you are whizzo with photoshop etc, so perhaps somebody could draw in some suggested cut lines. Am away on holiday for a week so please don't feel I've ignored any suggestions just that I'm not taking the Internet with me!!!!!!
  15. Tamiya Blitzer with Brand New Staduim Thunder Body. Chassis has hardly been used and still in excellent condition. Is fully ball raced and comes with the following: HPI Saturn brushed motor Hobbywing 1060 Brushed ESC Alturn High Torque servo Brand new set of Blitzer tyres and White wheels Skid plate to the rear to protect the chassis Stadium Thunder Bodyshell, Not cut, no marks and all the decals and window masks £125 & Price includes UK postage Many thanks Neil
  16. Hi Guys, I have some steering parts that I want to use on my Blitzer Stadium but I don't have the aluminium mount (see pictures). If you know the number or code of this part (to fix the arms at the chassis) please comment. It will be really appreciated. Tks Glob356
  17. Hi, I'm new here. This is the project I'm working on, it's a Blitzer Beetle body mounted on a rally set up TT-02r chassis. The front body mount is a modified Blitzer Beetle mount, I cut out the centre section so I could bolt it to the uprights. I have the chassis set to increased ride height & short wheelbase plus I've shortened the front track by replacing the front ~9mm hexes with 4mm hexes and fairly obviously I've fitted rally wheels/tyres. It has a Tamiya 10.5t brushless motor & a Team Powers XPS sport programmable ESC. There's still loads to be done - Replace shocks, not that I find much wrong with the TT-02r oil filled shocks but I want alloy shocks. Replace battery with LiPo. Tidy up body mounts & bolts etc. Now, to paint or not to paint? I really don't know whether to leave it 'ratty' or paint the shell. Perhaps white? With rally livery? Anyway, I've rambled on long enough. Here's a photo of it next to my Kyosho (I was fitting new tyres to) for scale. I think it looks pretty good, any ideas, thoughts, opinions would be most welcome.
  18. for sale vintage stadium blitzer original upgraded lrp esc for lipos, upgraded motor, front alloy c-hubs comes with receiver and transmitter, just put a battery and run it SOLD
  19. Hello wonderful people, I have been lurking and reading/learning/envying a while but now I need help lol The Mrs and I got each other blitzer beetles for xmas (woop) and I was intending on putting a brushless set up in mine. I went for one of these, as it was in my toolbox for some reason http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41130__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A_UK_Warehouse_.html Got it set up and with a two cell lipo, however I'm getting serious cogging and the power seems somewhat delayed. Its set up with a 13t steel pinion (recommended lots on here thank you) Any suggestions on getting the cogging sorted? Might be worth noting that if i hold the car off ground it doesn't cog but the power delivery still seems off somehow. Thanks!
  20. Hello Hello Hello, Hi, Ok I have just decided to build a second Tamiya model car and following on from my Lunch box (which has had a lot of mods), I have decided that I want SPEED... Krazy speed... So the plan is go nuts! I reckon up the voltage, start with a camel hump NIMH (yeah 11.1v LIPO would be sweet but expensive) probberly 8.4v or 9.6v mixed with a quicker brushed motor 14t Losi motor if it can handle the volts. An Etronix probe ESC could handle 8.4v and shouldn't mind a Losi motor. Another plus is both are cheaper then standard Tamiya 27t stuff. Well maybe not. Shocks, I may just see what I can get out of the Tamiya CVA's but will have to be firmer for roads, also I have some lunch box springs going spare. great if you want very hard suspension on CVA's. Obviously need a 2.4 Ghz radio but that's a must on any car in my opinion and a Mr T driver. Tyres.... Ok I'll get back to you on tyres. This could take awhile as I do have a real car to keep on the road and a GF to keep happy, shall be an on going thread, if any one has any ideas, advice or just wants to see how things are going please post away. Ando
  21. ... has not the rear window? Please can you confirm this? If you have the possibility to choose between full windows at 15 Euro and windows withour rear one at 10 Euro what you will choose? Both nib. Thanks Max
  22. When I put together my Blitzer Beetle, as I mention in my showroom I used the chassis from my runner Bearhawk with Stadium Thunder wheels/tires. I'm thrilled with the Blitzer Beetle so I'm keeping it that way permanently. But I've decided I want to get a chassis ready for the Bearhawk body and either make it the way it was - with the big wheels - or make it box art. Well, I snagged an old Bearhawk on ebay for about $20 with a mess of a body - but I just tossed that. Smells of cigarettes and is actually in worse shape than I expected. Gearbox has a big hole in it (not one of the ones meant to be there) and the chassis is scraped up and has carpentry screws sunk into it in odd places. So I may have to take a hit on that and replace a good bit of the parts. Here's my question... When I made up my Blitzer shell it was from a deal I got on the body components. But I'd already collected up all the NIP parts I'd need to build a Biltzer Beetle. Absolutely complete in fact, except no box... I have it in some other box. My question is now that I have a built Blitzer Beetle should I just raid the parts I need for the Bearhawk from the kit, or should I keep the kit intact, wait for a Blitzer Beetle box and plan on adding it to my NIB collection? To complicate matters I already have an extra NIP chassis, and the existing set of wheels and tires, plus many of the parts from the junker Bearhawk are usable. But I'll definitely need a new gearbox, and I might opt for a new set of arms on all 4 corners. To complicate matters, if I raid the parts I'd accumulated what do I do with all the remaining parts? Do I sell them / hold on to them / light them on fire? So - advise!
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