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Found 28 results

  1. Hi Guys! My Mrs has bought me the bruiser and high lift for my Birthday. While I am currently waiting for the clock to tick and days to pass nearer to my birthday, I have made a list for both chassis for relevant upgrades. The only thing I am unsure about is selecting the right motor? I am trying to stick to Tamiya Motors (Brushed) but open for suggestions Which Tamiya motor would you guys suggest would give me adequate power and torque suitable for the chassis? I will be running 2S Lipos The plan for the Bruiser and High Lift is to turn them into "OK" trail trucks (I know they're aren't the best and that there are better trucks) Here are the motors I have in mind: Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T Motor: 54358 Tamiya TR Torque Tuned 33T Motor: 56526 Tamiya CR Tuned 35T Motor: 54114 Many Thanks! S
  2. Not got a huge amount to show for my work this weekend, so I thought I'd add a retrospective build thread for my Budget Bruiser, which has been a regular feature at local and national scale events for the past couple of years. I acquired it back in 2015 as an RTR from a local hobby shop that no longer exists (or at least, no longer sell much in the way of RC cars). I had no interest in the Scout (or any comp crawler / rock bouncer style car, if I'm honest, I disliked them then and I still dislike them now), but I needed something I could put under a hardbody for my wedding in April. The plan was to build a hardbody pickup and have the rings driven down the aisle by a friend of mine. I had originally planned to use a KBF-bodied CC01 (see other recent build thread) but was let down by two problems: a) I had lost the tailgate and couldn't complete the body in a tidy manner and 2) the future wife looked at the truck and said "that's ugly, that's not coming to my wedding." I had an unpainted Super Clod body, and planned to use is over the Maverick Scout chassis. I figured I could make a suitable runner in a single weekend. Besides mounting the body, all I needed to do was make some shorter straight links, lower the shocks and fit some smaller wheels. However I ended up abandoning that project, too - I used some TLT axles, an Axial transmission and a TCS X-trail chassis for that project, and although it ran down the aisle on the wedding day, it was far from finished - it was 2wd only, the suspension was rock solid and the rear prop was made from two UJs and a piece of allthread - it was way out balance and had no sliding mechanism, so there was no rear suspension at all. It looked good but has languished in the box pending a complete rebuild (and having parts stolen from it) ever since. For a short time the Scout got used as a light runner, using an old Parma El Camino body with the arches cut out, but I never liked it much. After a while that body got repurposed onto a Traxxas E-Maxx, and the Scout rolling chassis was dumped in the spares pile. It was early 2016 when I realised I had a good selection of bits that I could use to make something interesting.
  3. Hey Everyone! I'm new here and I am in possession of some classic Tamiya vehicles that require restoration. Not sure which to start first, so I'll let you guys decide! Once one of the cars wins, I'll document the restoration process for the group. I'll keep the poll open until Friday 9/22.
  4. 24 hours of decent rain, and a pre organised date with my mate in his TRX4 meant for an awesome time out in the woods in Woldingham near me. having been there in the summer and dry and seen all the deep holes left by horses, I knew it would be a good time. Wasn't disappointed. #NoCleanShelfQueensHere I've now bought and fitted the Tamiya bead locks as the rims were spinning in the tyres on the rear after a while. My improved steering lock is now only 5cm more than my mates TRX4 with his diffs unlocked, and much less when he has his diffs locked. Very impressed with it. And the travel, well, you can see it is quite sufficient now. And that's not the max it has used there.
  5. Grastens Builds the Tamiya Bruiser (58519) The Kit Builder’s Build In the midst of the assembly of my Ferrari 312T3, the revival of my original Lancia Rally, and the planning and acquisition of another Tamiya-centric project, lumbered: It has been quite an outburst of RC-related activity lately, which is as sure a sign as any that I am dealing with some serious personal issues; burying myself in projects like this might be the least-destructive way to cope with them. I have never had the luxury of three new kit builds on the go, and the Bruiser will be by far the largest and most involved of them. Those concerns aside, I can point to the Tamiya Bruiser in my possession and say that this is a long-held dream of mine, finally realized! Finding a (Long-Winded) Dream My first Tamiya was a Toyota GT-One on the F103RS. It was a simple chassis that proved to be a good rookie car, if a bit difficult to find the ideal surface for it. I had always been interested in radio-controlled items and cars, so RC cars were a logical culmination. That car felt like a lifelong dream realized; playing video games was much more economically-feasible, and I had neither the money nor the support to treat radio-controlled cars as a real hobby. My childhood aspirations made do with the occasional cheap remote-controlled contraption, to be pitched when it broke after its inevitably-underwhelming performance. I could hardly complain, for I had the essentials covered in life, but I still fantasized about a true hobby-grade radio-controlled machine. Tamiya was even making the cars I saw in my video games – from Gran Turismo to 1:10 scale came the Castrol Celica ST205, the Calsonic Nissan Primera, the Castrol Mugen NSX – and the Toyota GT-One – all by the same company that produced the best static model I had built to that time (another story itself). My involvement in the hobby changed forever when I acquired a Buggy Champ as my second car; with it, I discovered the comparative freedom of off-road running, and nearly all of my acquisitions since have been all-terrain chassis. Along the way, I had been building my collection toward increasing mechanical complexity. I had always been interested in the mechanical aspect of machinery, and around the same time I purchased my Avante Black Special – then the most complicated build I would undertake – Tamiya re-released the Bruiser. It did not matter that I was not alive when the original Bruiser (or Avante, even) was available, for the concept of an all-metal, all-terrain truck with an actual shifting transmission was something that captured my imagination. At the time, I had saved up much of everything I had to acquire that Avante, but despite my good fortune that day, I still ended up wanting a Bruiser. If I were really increasing the mechanical complexity of my collection, the Bruiser seemed like a logical step, in the right direction, especially after the Avante. Instead, time and money (but mostly money) saw me take a different path with my cars, my desires for new challenges manifesting themselves in bodywork as opposed to chassis. I found out that the Avante was not what I envisioned; it had proven expensive to repair and limited in talent. Though Tamiya’s higher-end offerings certainly had my interest whenever they arrived, I probably never really wanted them as each new model slipped away without any further effort from me to acquire one. The Bruiser never totally left my consciousness, though. Eventually, I found that I was running out of spaces to run buggy-type off-road cars, and I was still intrigued by the sophistication of the 3-speed truck, especially as I learned more about automotive engineering. With classic models like the original 4 x 4 Hilux and Blazing Blazer reaching used-1:1-car prices, the Bruiser was the only affordable model until the Mountaineer re-emerged as the Mountain Rider. Even then, they were out of my grasp. It should be noted that the Tamiya Hilux High-Lift was also on the shelf that day at the hobby shop, yet neither that nor the Tundra nor the F-350 seemed to catch my imagination the way the Bruiser did. I passed it over completely. Fulfilling a (Long-Winded) Dream “I probably never really wanted them as each new model slipped away without any further effort from me to acquire one.” It was a trip to my local hobby shop for paints to complete my Ferrari 312T3 build when I finally decided I wanted a Bruiser, once and for all. It was likely triggered by the astonishing stock of Tamiya re-release models in the store: there – in the year 2019 – were new-in-box examples of the Novafox, Bigwig, Blackfoot, Egress(!), Monster Beetle, and a Frog, perched high on a shelf behind the sales counter. Clearly, the employees there had an appreciation for classic Tamiyas, which was encouraging. Pure curiosity prompted me to ask about their prices. I was astonished to realize that this particular shop had nearly closed the gap to online retailers, and every model there was competitively priced – I could have had an Egress for under $500 CAD after taxes! But then I asked the shop owner: “Do you still have the Bruiser in stock?” I saw one long ago, in another visit, and asked in the off-chance that maybe it was still kicking around. I never saw too many visitors in the shop, and the ones that were there either bought Redcats, Gundam models, or paints. “No,” he started, as my reasonable being sighed in relief, “but we can order one. You fill out a form, and we can have it in 48 hours.” My mind started racing, leaving my reasonable being in the dust. There’s no way I could… No way I should… If I have to ask… “How much would it be?” His reply shocked me. They had closed the gap – no, they had opened one up of their own! Even more shocking was learning that the upcoming re-re-release of the Mountaineer/Mountain Rider would be more expensive through the shop’s distributor, by $100 CAD, and not on pre-order. I had believed the Bruiser to be more complex somehow than its sibling, but this was completely secondary to the fact that a metal Tamiya 3-speed was now within reach! I would need to stretch, but within reach! “… I’ll think about it,” I said weakly, and continued searching for paints. I thought about it, all right, and a week or so was all I needed to clarify more than six years of dreaming and a lifetime passion for mechanical objects that begged me to make it happen. It felt like a lifetime had led me to that store the following week, where I sought out the shop owner, looked him in the eye, and said: “I want to order a Bruiser. Give me the form, please.” I was nervous. Last time I was there, I was talking myself out of it by telling the shop owner about my Ferrari 312T3, and laughing that I needed to finish that before thinking about any new projects. I knew I would need to work hard to get that money back, particularly as unlike the 312T3, the Bruiser had been unplanned just a month ago. Yet it felt like I had been preparing for it for much of my life, and all my extracurricular interests had readied me for this moment. Even stranger was that the Hilux High-Lift that I was previously totally uninterested in was still there. It was going for even less than the Egress, and for that kind of money I could have it finished with full electronics – but no, I wanted a Bruiser! As if to firmly put my cards on the table: “I’ll pay for it in full.” What am I doing?! The shop owner started to smile. That definitely lifted his spirits, too! The trip home was an odd mix of elation and fear: I needed a third project like I needed to get hit by a truck, let alone a big, expensive truck that could be worth more than everything I was working on to that point. In my heart, though, I knew I made the right decision, and celebrated my ability to enjoy my hobby in a way I have never done previously. The rest is a short story: having ordered it on a Friday, it arrived on the Monday, and by Tuesday – stopping to retrieve it from the shop during my regular errands – I had it in my hands. First Impressions Well, I had it in my arms, anyway: this box was massive! I had no idea just how large it was until I brought it home, and realized it was almost the width of the doorways in the house! When viewing box art for a kit online, it is easy to forget that the image is nearly the size of the box itself (though not true for some new releases with the “post-box-style” box front). In the case of the Bruiser, that means a large image indeed, and fine details really jump out at the viewer when looking at a box like this in person – this was the impression I was getting. One side of the box: Picture quality at this point was not great, mostly because I did not have a lot of time to take them before I had to find a place for it and continue on with my day. I have yet to even open the box! However, I can at least see what the chassis might look like when assembled: And in detail: The gearbox, which is likely the most compelling feature of this truck, gets another detail on the side, in addition to the inlaid image on the front: And then I had to set it aside. I can only wait so long, though! Planning the Build If you managed to read my lengthy story about how I got to wanting and finding a Bruiser, you would understand why I want to savour this build. I really wish I could go for the speed record, but I anticipate I will be putting in assemblies in a piecemeal fashion. Unlike previous projects, I do have all my supplies purchased at this preliminary stage, from electronics to paint to accessories. Hence, if deliveries are smooth, I should be able to make good time while still enjoying this build. Those electronics will consist of a Futaba 4YWD Attack 2.4 GHz radio and two 6-kg generic waterproof metal gear servos – which will be replaced by a Traxxas 2056 and a Futaba S3003 in the odd event that I fit servos in the build before the intended units arrive, or if their performance is unsatisfactory. I will look to fit one of my Tamiya TBLE-02S units but will soon have the luxury of an Axial AE-5L ESC with LED output. That will allow me to fit at least headlights and taillights immediately, though I had intended it for another build… That being said, I did read on this forum somewhere that one should not skimp on electronics for a Bruiser, and I am inclined to agree! That Axial ESC might make its way into the truck yet. I have yet to see a Tamiya 3-speed sporting a battery under 4 000 mAh capacity, and presently have no working batteries of that specification (maximum 3 000 mAh, and well-used), so it looks like there is in fact one more thing I need. I could get a proper-capacity battery while ordering another Axial ESC, I suppose! As was the case with my Lancia 037 4WD-H, I intend to find a moderate stand between scale realism and the model’s radio-controlled nature. While I am interested in adding things like door panels and a driver figure to the interior, a large part of the Bruiser’s appeal to me is its realism in its drivetrain, so I will be content to run it with a few concessions to scale presence as opposed to all-out authenticity. Besides, the latter would require more LEDs and the MFC-02… My Lancia 037 4WD-H has also taught me that too much complexity is possible in a model, so the emphasis will be on producing a running vehicle, though one with some attention paid to aesthetics. It is still not enough to convince me that I should use Stealth body mounts (it’s an RC car, and RC cars use body posts and clips – I can live with that), but enough for me to at least attempt to produce a neat paint job – the static modeller in me is still alive somewhere! Since I cannot afford a used vehicle, and therefore by association a classic Hilux 4 x 4, I have elected to pay tribute to it with a Czech-made custom step-side rear bed. Doing so means I will be unable to use the bed topper that is standard in the Bruiser kit, and I will need to do some drilling and cutting for this custom bed to fit the chassis. Roll bar options for the 122 mm width of the rear bed seem to be limited – thankfully, I have an assortment of styrene tubes and rods on the way, which could enable me to build one from scratch. As before, I will be adding a driver figure and hopefully some simple styrene cuts serving as door panels. I am seriously entertaining adding a passenger – I was previously intrigued by the possibility of reworking a resin figure kit into a seated passenger, but the expense and detail are too high for the purpose I have in mind. As such, any passenger will almost certainly be a reworked 4 x 4 driver figure – though the extent of the “rework” remains to be seen… The chassis will be stock – having a Bruiser is enough of a novelty for me to be happy with its stock performance for a little while. If I feel the need to upgrade, chances are I would find a higher-turn brushed motor for it first, and even then, that might suffice. Paint is at this point going to be mainly TS-43 Racing Green. If I elect for graphic accents, I will add stripes in TS-26 Pure White and TS-8 Italian Red, as an homage to my previous Avante Black Special and Astute hybrid – I had forgotten how popular those designs were when they made their debuts and feel that this combination could work on a truck like this. Even if it does not, it works for me! The Last Word – for Now Going through literature, accounts, and reviews of the Bruiser, as well as the depth and breadth of custom projects involving the model, has made me realize that I know precious little about trucks and their culture. Knowledge at this point might be dangerous, since it could compel me to spend even more money on accessories (how about that K5 Blazer shell from RC4WD?!), but anything I can learn about pickup trucks, show trucks, mud/bog racing trucks, and any combination thereof will be interesting to me. It feels a world removed from my regular research on rally racers, sports prototypes, and other genres, and it gives me something else to look forward to as I start this exciting RC adventure. “Yes, [I’m] really in Hog Heaven [now that I] own a Bruiser!” – Tamiya promotional spot, c. 1985
  6. Like many other people on the forum and as a child of the 70s and 80s, the past year lockdown has brought about a time to reflect and be nostalgic towards better and happier days. And again like so many, having had a more or less 30+ year gap since the last time I dabbled properly in RC (aside from a short foray with a TL-01 and TA04 Pro around the time of the millennium), the lockdown has provided an opportunity to stay home and turn back the clock with some kit building. I was lucky enough to be into RC at the height of the golden age of Tamiya. But like many here, as a child at the time with relatively meagre pocket money, my purchasing power (after much saving) only extended to a Falcon bought from the long since gone chain of UK model shop Beatties . A classic bundle, the kit came with the useless trickle charger that took forever to charge Tamiya 1200 packs, the ubiquitous ACOMS servos / transmitter / receiver and of course the obligatory Beatties black and yellow RC bag that offered little protection to the prized possession in side. But it was wonderful thing! The Falcon fared as well as you’d expect with broken bathtubs, cracked uprights and lost dog bones – all of which I tried to repair with superglue, sticky tape and things that I found in my father’s shed just to keep it on the road. But, between my friends and I, we were able to swap around amongst us Hornets, Grasshoppers, Superchamps and Frogs – all in various states of disrepair. But, as much time as we spent running our cars, we spent even more time flicking thought the pages of Tamiya guidebooks and longing and lusting after unobtainable and unaffordable hop-ups, Bruisers, Avantes, Astutes and much more. So, having fast forward three decades and now having a bit more pocket money to play with so to speak, when the Tamiya nostalgia kick came I decided that I’d try to set myself a challenge. I decided that I wanted to try to buy and build new kits (NIB or Re-re) that I thought best captured the spirit of Tamiya, and to try to fulfil a few unachieved childhood dreams. I initially set a challenge of picking two cars to buy and build that I thought would kill a little bit of downtime in-between work, family and life. But, thanks to the continuing pandemic lockdown and the fact that I’m now sucked in again to RC as I was when a child, I’m now 4 new build cars in and contemplating a 5th. More of that later….. So, after a 35 year lust from watching the grainy Tamiya promo video of a blue truck spinning around the beach - my first purchase was a Bruiser. As most know who’ve owned and built one, it was a very rewarding exercise. A surprisingly complex process – especially getting the body right - I did wonder what state I would have made of the build as a 10 year old kid. I built it as stock – but on completion decided to venture into the world of brushless and lipos (which is a whole new world to me) and took a punt on a 4300kv motor and 80amp ESC. I should say at this point that I had already decided that anything I build should be fully operational – but - would only ever be shelf queens (a new term I was rapidly learning!). I added a lighting kit from Banggood and spent an age painting and finishing to the best I could and I was pretty pleased with the result. It was at this point that I realised again the importance of the box art and livery. There are just some body shells and paint jobs that are timeless icons of RC. I strongly argue that the Bruiser is one of them and this got me thinking. The liveries of some of Tamiya’s cars are so entrenched in the companies ethos and identity that the two things go hand in hand. Adding to my challenge I decided my car selection should also be representative of the idea of iconic livery. So – this in mind, I resolved that my next build would be a Sandscorcher. You may disagree with this, but in my opinion it is indeed truly an icon. The little blue and white VW I believe was pretty instrumental in kicking off Tamiya popularity in the early 80s. I decided that I wanted to build this classic trying to bring in some subtle modern upgrades and interventions but without ruining the charm and spirit of the original. With my new found knowledge of brushless, I binned the silver can and fitted a Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless (….in a Scorcher….. I know….). To make the job neat, I bought the 3d printed brushless motor end cap from ‘Scorched Parts’, along with their inner fenders and servo saver. Like the Bruiser, I fitted a lighting kit and roof rack (inspired by Bob on his Hobby Concepts Youtube channel). I know there are many out there who customise the Scorcher far more than I, but I like the charm and character of the SRB chassis, the leaky shocks and clear plastic inner shell. Similar as the Bruiser, the metal components and design of the Sandscorcher whilst rudimentary, are beautifully engineered. Keeping the theme of “spirit of Tamiya” and “iconic livery”, my next decision was pretty straightforward - The Lunchbox. I won’t lie – a decision partly influenced by my kids who had been showing an interest in my efforts, it seemed a no brainer to get them involved. To me, the lunchbox is the personification of 80’s Tamiya fun. I remember at the time thinking that it was cooler to have the Falcon than the Lunchie, but secretly perhaps realising it wasn’t. I actually bought two kits – one each for my 11 and 8 year old. You’d be unsurprised to know that building two kits at the same time with two young children who have the attention span of a goldfish, is as stressful as you’d imagine. But, despite a few hiccups here and there (a few screws not in straight, omitted bearings etc…..), the classic yellow van turned out great. As did its twin with Scooby Doo livery. I’ve so far managed to keep the box art car as a shelf queen I’m pleased to say, but it might be that I have to build a third one as a runner…. Anyway, inevitably, the elephant in the classic Tamiya car show room had to be addressed. It couldn’t be put off anymore. My justification of the prolongation of lockdown meant that after 32 years of waiting, Santa finally delivered at Christmas an Avante. I don’t actually think there is much to say about it. No introduction or explanation needed. Spirit of Tamiya? Check. Iconic livery? Check. Possibly the car that most perfectly capture what Tamiya is all about? Maybe. In my mind yes, but you may no doubt think differently. But, I just give a knowing wink to the forum and all those of my similar age, or those who have built and / or owned an Avante. Over engineered and over designed like little else Tamiya has ever done before or since, it didn’t disappoint I have to say and will sit as pride and joy for me to look at. So, by now, my budget is blown. Tamiya has me hooked like a school boy once again but I’ve had to draw a line before I head into an RC money pit abyss. Indeed as I write at the beginning of 2021, the new list of cars due to be released by Tamiya has me flicking through the pre-order websites. But, this is the question to you (assuming you’ve got this far in my story….), given my brief of “Spirit of Tamiya” and “Iconic Livery”, and given the 4 cars I’ve bought and built so far – what would your final 5ht selection be? What new kit / re-re would you suggest I buy to complete my story? But indeed, if you had to pick 5 cars in response to my challenge – what would you go for? I very much look forward to hearing your thoughts and wish you happy building.
  7. While stuck at home during these tough times, I bought a Tamiya Bruiser re-release and an HG-P407 to mess around with. I was really wanting to have a couple of trucks that can bomb around the garden. I figured I could use the HG-P407 to modify rather than making changes to the classic Tamiya. I built the Bruiser first and as always with Tamiya kits, it went together smoothly. It's a completely stock build except I've added the Hot Racing ball bearing steering and AMPRO front wheel extenders. Everyone knows about the floppy steering with the Bruiser so most people move the steering servo to the front of the chassis. I kinda like the old school look of the "steering box" so that's why I added the Hot Racing steering. The AMPRO front wheel extenders extend the front track so that it matches the rear. I'm using a Tamiya Finespec TTU-09 4 channel radio to drive, steer and shift. Pretty much an all Tamiya build except for the Futaba servos. I bought the white pre-built version of the HG-P407. Out of the box, the first thing I did was clean all the shock oil which had leaked out of the shocks. This required removing the wheels and tires. Here is where I first noticed that the hardware was extremely soft. I stripped the heads of two of the wheel screws and had to use a screw extractor. Make sure you have quality tools and that they are fully seated before messing with the hardware. Everyone calls this truck the Bruiser clone. It's more of a fax of a Bruiser. It's easy to see the difference in quality between the Tamiya and the HG. As mentioned, the shocks are garbage. They look like the Tamiya versions but they only have one seal at the shock shaft and the top seal does not have a bleed screw. I basically emptied the shocks and removed the boots. At some point I will replace them with something that actually works. It may be a little difficult since any replacement will require a shock shaft with a longer threaded section. Or maybe replacing the shock towers with a taller version that can accept shocks with eyelets on both ends? I added the Hot Racing ball bearing steering and AMPRO front wheel extenders too. I also replaced the steering servo and radio with the FlySky i6. The steering servo saver is also junk, so that was replaced with a Tamiya heavy duty version. Finally, I replaced all the bearings with some AVID rubber seals. Whew! After all that was complete, I focused on the body. My intent was to decorate the body like the Tamiya Mountain Rider. After looking at vintage pictures of this Toyota body style, I started to like the 80s Toyota graphics. I painted the body Tamiya mica red, added the back panel to the truck and removed the chrome plating from all of the parts. The decals are a combination of Tamiya Mountain Rider and RC4WD Trail Finder sets. Lastly, I installed the Mountain Rider roll bar. When I mounted the body, I realized the truck looked crooked. I figured out that the leaf springs had massive slop at the ends of the A springs. They do not properly wrap around the brass spacers that attach to the hangers. I removed those and replaced the A and B springs with Tamiya versions. The pictures show where I'm at. Besides finding a suitable shock replacement, I have a small list of other modifications I’d like to add. Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions.
  8. Hello - not so long time first time vintage and Re-re fan... Does anyone know if the NIP windshield for the Re-re Bruiser kit is a match/the same as for the Re-re Moutain Rider kit? I acquired a Bruiser kit, but am selling a Mountain Rider kit NIB and just noticed a crack in the packaged windshield tree, and was wondering if they are interchangeable from a collector perspective? I don't want to false advertise and can't find a NIP replacement Mountain Rider windshield tree at all... Thanks for anyone looking/reading and interested in responding!
  9. I'm building a rere Bruiser at the moment and one of the radius arms rattles when the rear axle assembly is in the chassis. Is there something I don't know about them? It seems weird to me that they are supposed to just sit in the gap under the axle holder.
  10. there are two display stands for tamiya bruiser: deluxe version https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deluxe-stand-for-TAMIYA-Bruiser-and-Mountaineer-with-Box-Art-TOYOTA-4x4-PICKUP/140326080044 econ version https://www.ebay.com/itm/202665361729 i bought both it is to point out that the econ version doesn’t fit rere bruiser well. the two ends of its rear portion are too far apart. let’s compare it with the deluxe version let’s closely examine this end with the other end keeping inline the two ends of rear portion of econ version are too far apart so the rear portion cannot hold the truck well. it is very easy for the rear end of the truck to slip aside and fall. the deluxe version holds the truck firmly.
  11. Hi, looking for a Bruiser / Mountain Rider rolling chassis (with wheels/tires). No electronics/motor needed! It can be used condition, but must be complete and in working order. Must be located somewhere in EUR (I'm in Germany) due to shipping costs. thanks
  12. hi i am new to this forum and i bought a re re Tamiya bruiser recently. the build is fun and i would like to share some pics and thoughts. let's start grease, grease, grease, .. the most difficult part of the build. you need to align not only the positions but also the orientations properly.. the main shape emerged.. shocks.. the gearbox is not so difficult to assemble as i imagined before.. slipper clutch.. insert a paper to adjust motor position. old school method.. the mechanical parts finished.. i didn't cut the shift servo saver as i run 1st and 2nd gear only.. i am not good at painting so i leave it unpainted.. go outside to have a ride.. thanks for watching..
  13. Well it's been sitting in the cupboard for seven months now and I couldn't keep myself from building it any longer. While I know that there are a lot of Bruiser builds on this forum (many that are far better that this will be), this is more to just document and have a record for myself of this truck. I don't plan on doing any modifications really (just will add the slipper clutch) and want to make it true box art. Like all my other builds, it'll be fast! Once I start I'm addicted and have to keep building! Besides... who doesn't like seeing people build Bruisers Like many on here, this truck is one of my Holy Grails so to speak. I never had just that one model that I always wanted (although the 959 Porsche and this were close!) but I suspect like all of us that are of a certain ilk, seeing this in a hobby store in the 80s high up on a shelf for a price that was inconceivable, made it truly out of touch. Also this fascination with how a three speed transmission like this would even work blew my mind! I don't think it should also ever go without saying for anyone who stumbles across this thread outside of forum members that this kit is literally the best quality Tamiya kit I have ever (and I am sure most would agree) have ever built. The quality of parts, the all metal (literally most of the kit is metal) and the fitment of it all is a thing of beauty. Anyone who has even a mild mechanical or engineering leaning would wet themselves over how awesome this truck it. The stunning Tamiya cardboard box *Insert biblical sound when box opens* It's a big box! JUST LOOK AT IT!!!! The parts bags weigh about 32kgs. And so it begins... Nearly forgot the bearings on the diff... Didn't like the play on the Bruiser diff when assembled - too much side to side play for my liking (these obsessions with tight fits started when I was building cars in the 80s) so I shimmed each side. Ended up with two shims per side on the rear and front. makes a difference, but it's still not as "perfect" as I would have liked. I still can't really describe to everyone how serious the diff is. The gears (nearly all metal) are just beautiful. Brings a tear to my eye... The big question for me now is what motor should I put in her? I am thinking of using the Tekin 35T with the FXr I had in my Tundra... Any thoughts from the community on that one? And if anyone needs any more motivation to load up the credit card please see below More to come soon! Am making a coffee and building all day today so will update soon!
  14. I have a few projects going on at the moment and I've been meaning to start a build thread for a while. I will post about the cars as I'm working on them, some may take much longer than others and some may never get finished . Here's what I currently have in the fleet, if anyone would like to see or ask a question about a specific car just shout. TT01 - Countersteer drift car. TA02 SW - Built chassis intended as a shelf queen but I messed up the body so need to buy another. Bruiser - Part assembled for almost a year. CC01 - Built chassis (stalled camera car project). TA02 SW - 40th Anniversary still in box. FF03 - Speed run car (*worlds fastest FF03 82Mph) F103 GT - Built chassis with Mugen body currently a shelf queen but intended for speed runs. TRF 419x - Built chassis planned for 17.5T blinky club racing. M05r vII - In progress. TT02 - Stalled speed project, either TT02s conversion or shelf. TB04 Evo IV - Silver can challenge car, current fastest silver can powered Tamiya at (44.8Mph) TRF 418 - Speed run project car going for triple digits and current fastest Tamiya Club Car (85.5Mph) (94.8Mph) I'll start with the M05. I'm working on a Swift body for it and at the decal stage but need to visit my friend and get some more vinyl cut but here it is as of today. It's a V2 R kit with lots of nice Hop Ups included from Tamiya so the only additional parts are carbon towers, hollow carbon gear shaft and 3Racing graphite side trays. I ordered the towers before I built the car and have discovered that the front tower is completely pointless. I just noticed that to fit the 3Racing side trays I need to drill the chassis holes for the mount to sit flush . The pointless front shock tower: The side tray problem: Chassis: It was a nice build overall and I'm very much looking forward to running it. My current plan is to finish the body and then decide on the motor but at the moment I'm thinking about a 2s, 3.5T setup . EDIT *Wild claims relating to having the worlds fastest 2s FF03 are to the best of my knowledge correct at time of posting.
  15. Hello All in UK, Bruiser clear parts tree. NIP £10? Venom speed meter BNIP £12 posted ESC's: Tamiya TEU-104BK new £12 posted LRP IPC, NO LIMIT brushed racing ESC forward with brake, No reverse, diode included for motor brakes. BNIB £20 shipped Please PM me if your interested in anything. I can combine shipping. James.
  16. Hi all, I've had this 3-speed transmission lying around for many years now. My best guess is that it's for the 50028 Hilux, but I'm not 100% sure. Hoping you experts can help me out I think I originally bought it for my Bruiser project, and later found out that it didn't exactly fit with a 750 motor So the question remains - is this the transmission for a Hilux, and what would you guys think it would sell for? Regards Martin
  17. Hi All, I*m new here, treat me nice ;-) I've bought a Bruiser off eBay, with the idea being to restore and re-build where necessary. I work on computers every day, so this is a great way for me to work with my hands and get my mind away from computers and screens! I bought it as a semit-complete kit - so the chassis & running gear are are all there, with working electrics, but the body needs to be completed, and there are two seemingly serious issues to deal with before the truck can run... But, the last time I worked on an RC car was about 30 years ago and it was fleeting - when I was a kid this was the thing I wanted to do but my parents couldn't afford for me to do, so it was only with a few friends once or twice! So basically I'm new to this, and have probably bitten off a bit more than I should to start with. [To remedy that, I've bought a bunch of Grasshoppers off ebay too, which I'm going to work on as well - time to satisfaction much faster!] So I have some questions which I hope the folks here can help with: 1) slop on the front axle? When I put on the wheels, there was a bit of slop which I put down to tightening. Now that I've spent more time on the truck, I can see that the hub shafts are moving around in the knuckles too much. More tightening, or is this normal? What to do? 2) what should it sound like? What should a good motor + running gear sound like when it's running - what are the warning signs for more grease / bad lubrication / problems / etc etc? 3) shifting the tranny? This thread from Nitomor is excellent, and it's highlighted how important it is to get the shifting right. My one only shifts into 4wd drive if I really push the rod as far as it can go manually with my fingers, certainly can't do it with the servo alone - so how do I adjust this so that the servo can do it for me? What are the measurements I should be watching out for? 4) what servos to use? Again, the thread from Nitomor is great for inspiration! Would metal gear servos be good as a matter of course? What ones are recommended? Which is tougher on the servo - direction (left / right) or shifting the tranny? I'm in the UK, so any suggestions on what to get would be appreciated. Could follow Nitomor exactly, but then sounds like his Bruiser is mostly for the shelf, so wonder if there are better options? Also, which servo saver? Mine has new white circular ones on the tranny servo. 5) what transmitter to use? I can get the transmitter to shift into the 2wd gears no problem, but moving the rod far enough back to switch into 4wd reliably, then keep it there, seems to be beyond the transmitter / servo combination. Is there a way to tune this I'm missing? Again related to the servo question - seems like using a gate on the transmitter is a bit of a hack if you can use a switch instead? Seems like if the switch can do Neutral, Left & Right, then you've got the 3 speed shifting you need? If so, which transmitter is recommended? Would any 6 or 7 channel transmitter within budget work, or are there specific models only? Nitomor is using the Futaba FF7, and there is a guy who posted a build using a Carson tx - so what should I be looking for? Lastly, I'm not building this for the shelf - this is being built to run around with my kids. I'm hoping to hop on a GoPro or similar so that I can take photos of my kids running around without having to actually keep up with them ;-) So when answering please bear that in mind - I'm not looking for beauty or perfect lines, mainly something that will last and will be bomb-proof, much like my real life 1:1 Bruiser! Cool, over to you guys, thanks in advance!
  18. I have been building a Tamiya Bruiser Hilux over the last 6 months which I bought just before Xmas last year. I didn't start the build until after xmas during the holiday period and managed to complete the chassis for the most part in those couple of weeks. I have documented the build in depth as I went (for another forum) since I couldn't access this one at the time but it seems a shame not to mirror it on here where it will no doubt be appreciated more. It is not yet complete so I will post up the steps which take me to where I am now. It has been an awesome build and hopefully it'll give those considering one a taste of what it is like to build one. I sat on the fence for a long time with this because it is a substantial outlay but what an epic build and model it is. My apologies in advance since this was written at the time and so it might seem a little strange in the use of the past tense but I'm carrying much of the diary over as I wrote it then, to capture the spirit/mindset at the time of build. So here's where it started..... The box art; Box contents; Chassis and axles; all set out ready for start The kit comes with these tools; Parts bag A. Comes with threadlock paste and grease etc. Thankfully, unlike other Tamiya kits where you are constantly reaching for other part bags each containing the necesary parts for particular steps, it appears that the bruiser kit is in proper part bag steps, so steps 1-9 appear to pertain purely to parts bag A which should keep things somewhat tidier. more to follow...
  19. Hi all, Starting to get out of the hobby and clearing out some of my NIB kits, starting with this great deal. Selling as a set. NIB BRUISER (Still in sealed Tamiya shipping box, purchased from Tower Hobbies about 2 years ago. Never opened.) http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/trucks-36500/rc-toyota-bruiser-58519 NIB RC4WD Truescale alloy beadlock wheels. (not currently available on RC4WD site) http://store.rc4wd.com/Truescale-Series-Bruiser-Beadlock-Wheels-_p_2534.html NIB RC4WD Hex conversion kit. http://store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-conversion-kit-for-Tamiya-Bruiser-2012_p_2504.html $650 Shipped anywhere in the Continental USA. Cheers, Skottoman
  20. Since posting this two days ago http://www.tamiyaclu...showtopic=78760 and this yesterday http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=78777 , I have found more RC models, bodies and parts that I don't need anymore and would be happy to sell. Please see new list below with the additional items since yesterday. Please send me a PM if anything should be of interest or if you're looking for something not found in the lists. I have quite a bit more stuff for sale. Will send photos of all items of interest to you, so you will know the exact condition of what you get before you buy. On request, I'll send you the lists as an Excel-file or a suitable text format. RC Models: RC Bodies: RC Parts (and RC Mini 4WD kits):
  21. I recently got back into R/C cars and picked up the re-release of the Bruiser I could never afford as a kid. After doing some research I chose a Futaba 3PM-X to get the 3 step switch to control the gear box and 2 Futaba S3010 servos. Not sure if one was necessary for the gear box vs a standard servo. I locked the rear diff and left the front unlocked since I'm probably going to be running mostly in low 4WD or low 2WD. For the ESC I chose a Novak 1835 Eiger 2S/3S Crawling Brushed ESC. I'm leaving the stock motor in for now which is a 540. The last things I need are the battery packs and a charger. I'm not exactly sure what my options are based on my setup. My super old Tamiyas used to run Nicd batteries I believe. I'm interested in getting decent run times longer than 10-15 minutes.
  22. Hot on the heels of my last build, my Tundra High Lift "Modern day Bruiser" ( http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=76822 ) I began a proper Bruiser build (well, a re-re). Normally I will do as many hop-ups to my vehicles as possible, in an attempt to extract the best out of each vehicle. But hop-ups for the Bruiser are few and far between, so this post will showcase the ones I did to mine. * 54412 Slipper clutch * 54414 4 piece bead lock wheels * 54416 Driver figure * OP-68 Sport Tuned motor * Tamiya TLU-01 (x2), TLU-02, and Tamiya LED's * CC Hand interior with door cards * CC Hand body emblems * CC Hand front turn signal lenses and rear tail lamp lenses * CC Hand rear view mirror * Pro-Line Masher tires * 1 leaf removed from front and rear leaf springs The slipper clutch What it replaces Assembled The Sport Tuned Electronics The 4 piece bead lock wheels And the Mashers Comparison And fitted to the vehicle. I will use this set up only when running the vehicle. The stocks will be for when it's parked on it's shelf. CC Hand front lenses I used Tamiya's matte clear coat on the Bruiser just as I did with my "Modern Day Bruiser". I think it makes the blue much, much better. CC Hand tail lenses. There was no way I would have been able to paint these in a satisfactory manner, so these were a clear choice.
  23. Was fortunate enough to get the "ok" to pick up a Mountain Rider for my birthday. In an attempt to minimize costs (and keep the peace on the homefront), I'd like to use one of the Tamiya ESCs I have laying around, rather than pick up a new unit. I have a TEU-104BK, which the manual specifically states cannot be used. Can someone help explain why this won't work? I also have a TLBE-02S -- any chance this will work? The truck will be a light runner, so springing for a Tekin FXR (seems to be a popular recommendation) is likely overkill. I'm a bit new to this ESC business, as I hopped from MSCs to Nitro, and then dropped out of the hobby for a bit. Thanks!
  24. Hi, I'm chasing a few original Bruiser parts, though will have to go for some RN36 parts as well: Chassis: motor stay (4245009) rear bumper stays (4015016 or BA-37) rear bumper (D parts, probably rere) battery stays, L+R (4305134, 4305135) mech box lower half (also called "servo lid") Steering linkage trans linkage msc linkage H parts (may as well go new rere I guess) All body parts - would rather a used body, figuring it would price similarly to all the pieces of a new one. Is it possible to buy an entire rere Bruiser body kit?? If anyone has ANY miscellaneous Bruiser parts I'd be interested, really hard to source from here in Australia! Thanks Dave
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