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Found 7 results

  1. Hi, I want to buy a new brushed motor for my modified Blitzer Stadium. I wonder how many turns is best for the Blitzer? Tamiya silver can motor is 27T. Do I need a 21T, 23T? Thank you for your advice! Glob356
  2. I have a Tekin 410K ESC which has not been used since about 1994 mounted in one of my old cars. It worked perfectly when it was last used so I am considering reusing it with a different chassis. I am a little concerned about batteries, though, as the last time it was used we were still using NiCads. I would not use it with LiPos, but would it be safe to use with NiMh packs? I have no idea about the relative outputs for NiCads and NiMhs, (besides the obvious capacity benefits for NiMhs) so I don't know if it is a straight swap between the two.
  3. Hello, I have recently started acquiring parts again to rebuild a car which I bought in a drunken eBay binge about ten years ago. This should present no serious problems as I used to race 1/10 RC buggies when I was a teenager and the old-school technology is familiar to me. I was looking through all my old gear to see what was reusable, though, and realised there was some stuff I didn't know about the box of old brushed motors I had. If anyone can help with any of my queries here, I would be very grateful. 1. I have a purpose-made padded box containing eight old brushed motors of various kinds, including at least one 27T stocker and a number of old modifieds. I suspect the stock motor is probably worn out, but would it be possible to potentially recommission the modifieds? The commutators on some of the armatures might need skimming, but would the static can magnets still be viable, or do they demagnetise over time? Some of these motors have not been used for approaching thirty years, so if time is a factor in them still being useable then I fear it may have run out. 2. I remember BiTD that in the UK there used to be a maximum price limit for modified motors, which was the most which could be charged for them to be legal for BRCA competition (£40, rising later to £45 and then £50, if I remember correctly). These motors used to be described as hand-wound and were markedly superior wind-for-wind to the machine-wound modifieds which you could get for considerably less money. Looking on eBay now, it seems these expensive hand-wound motors have all but disappeared from the market, presumably due to cheap Chinese imports and the advent of brushless motors. I have a number of hand-wound armatures without cans to put them in, so would it be worth getting some cheap new brushed motors and putting the old armatures in them, or will the cans be of too low quality to make it worthwhile? Also, if it is worth trying, would I have to use a can from a motor of similar wind to the arm I a putting in, or are can magnets all pretty much the same? 3. Back when I was driving in the late 80s and early 90s, i managed to fry a number of Futaba ESCs by trying to run motors through them which were clearly too much. I have bought a new modern ESC to fit in my rebuild, but given that it cost about £15 and was bult in China, I have no idea if it has an upper limit for brushed motor winds which it is safe to use with it. It's a Hobbywing QuicRun Brushed Electronic Speed Controller ESC 60A 1060. Does anyone have a suggestion for an upper wind limit, or has technology come on so much in the intervening time that this will safely handle whatever I throw at it? 4. I still have a Tekin 410K ESC from my old car which would probably still work and have plenty of headroom for hot brushed winds. Would this work with the new 2.4GHz radio gear, though? It has the correct Futaba-pattern plug to fit the receiver, but I have no idea if the receiver-to-ESC signal path has changed along with the transmitter-to-receiver one. 5. Does anyone still even make brushed motor spares for these old modified beasts anymore? Stuff like brushes and brush springs? Thank you in advance if anyone has any answers to any of the above. I realise that the obvious answer to all of this would be "just buy a brushless set-up", but I still find the idea of them somewhat baffling and I am attempting to ease myself back into RC gently, before I start trying to comprehend impossible machines which run on unicorn tears. Cheers!
  4. Hey Guys My first posting here. So.. many years ago in a galaxy far far away when i was a young lad i received a brand new Boomerang as a B'day present already made by my Dads mate, much fun had! entered in Sunday meets (just 4 fun racin) and alot of after school bashing with me mate Cotsell. 30 years on after looking for gadgets to spend some hard earned cash on discovered that Tamiya were still going, after a second! contemplating decided got to get one. Having never before built a Tamiya or any other rc vehicle I were looking forward and hoping to be challenged by the build, Overall Enjoyed putting together found instructions very informative and build quite easy, did over a week for an hour or so each evening, the most daunting part of the project was the body cutting, experimented on the chassis cover with scissors, went ok but not perfect, The body however i wanted it to be perfection. So did some research from mainly you guys here on Tamiyaclub and was suprised that many of you mentioned scoring with a craft knife and bending was key, this works superbly and is actually quite therapeutic creating the bodywork this way (very light scoring and very sharp thin blade required). PLAYTIME First run.. 3000mah nimh battery, stock tble 2esc and silver Mahbuchi motor.(not recorded) Run 2.. hpi firebolt 15t motor same battery and esc but with steel 17pinion on motor. 26mph??? ..... according to iphone 4s app attached inside body. O.k to be honest i was sceptical about the old iphone 4s gps reading and app, so have now changed to samsung s6 with very good and tested app. Today , I received direct from Hong Kong Ezrun 9t brushless motor and esc combo (£27.99) fitted, works well and leaves skidmarks all over laminated flooring in house 😀... will inform if any requests are taken on next run.. Any guesses ?
  5. I have had this motor for a looooong time. I used to race in a super stock class back in early 2000 and this motor along with the type R where the spec motors. I have raced in this class around ten times. I took a break from the hobby and eventually replaced the power system in my car with a brushless system. I used this motor in my XV-01 pro but I feel it is too nice to have on an offroad car. The motor is in ok condition, it is still working and I have actually carried out a maintenance last year, where I thoroughly cleaned it, oil the comm bushings and polished the comm. I think it would benefit a lot from a new set of brushes, but those are very cheap. I feel too bad using this and since it also has some sentimental value, being the motor that gave me my first podium win, I have decided to sell it to anyone who is interested in having it in a shelf queen, maybe a TL-01, TA-03 or TA-04, TB-01, TB-Evo, FF02 or an F1 since it was recommended for those models. I also still have the original box and I will pack it with this one since I think the box art looks really cool and it can have some collectible value. I do not see these around that often so I am not sure if they are that collectible but I think 30€ plus shipping would be a reasonable price but, I am open to offers.
  6. Hi, I recently purchased a TT-02 D for club racing at my local indoor carpet track. I really enjoyed the build and taking my time painting the shell and applying the decals. However, the TT-02 has its limitations out the box. There is no adjustable front toe, front or rear camber and rear toe in without spending upwards of £80 on Yeah Racing aluminium parts and the Tamiya Steering upgrade. I sold the TT-02D on instead of throwing money at it and purchased a Schumacher Mi5 Evo used but I cannot fit my Tamiya Sport Tuned brushed motor to the motor mount because of the pinion shaft collar/bushing and the fact the two holes in the motor could not match up with the chassis motor mount holes. I tried a Etronix 21T tuned motor, which has a smaller bush/collar but still ran into problems. Its not surprising really as I guess its a full fat racer designed for Brushless and LiPo. Our club runs Brushed and NiMH because its a small track and we want it to be affordable for everyone so a Brushless setup was not accepted so I'm selling the Mi5 Evo. I'm back looking at touring cars, from Tamiya. The TA-0x and the TRF Family but I don't know if they are designed to only take Brushless motors or not? From my research from reading manuals the TA-01 through TA-05 all definitely take Brushed motors. The TA-06 and 07 show pictures of Brushless motors in the manual so I assume a brushed motor wouldn't fit? I'm fairly new to Tamiya models and on-road carpet racing so I'm struggling a bit trying to find what will take a brushed motor in the TRF Family, Possibly only the 414? Ideally id like the newest Tamiya that still supports running the Tamiya Sport tuned motor or a Brushed motor so that parts support is still available. Any helps on what chassis take brushed motors would be great. Thanks
  7. Hi, I was just searching for a good motor to use in my my TT02 rally car and came up with a few reabuildable brushed motors, which means I could change the brushes once they wear out. My top decision is Tamiya Dirt-Tuned, but I've also noticed the difference in the price of 'Super Stock' motors (TZ/RZ/BZ), but they all feature 'Standard type' brushes and they all are 23T (except Dirt-Tuned, it's 27T). What can be dfferent? Then I searched for brushes and then again - I found that there are standard, laydown and some 'commutator cleaning' brushes. What's the difference between all of them? Depending to the differences, which one is or may be the best for rallying? What motors do you use in your rally cars?
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